Not really. I assumed it was some kind of water/dust seal. I think I put it on the drive side next to crank arm.

The O ring goes to the buttom bracket that helps with dust and water resistant

I've only used this in 1x setup so I don't know. 40t in front and 11-50t in the back.

You can but it would be great to know what is the chainline for both inner and outer position to determine if it’s compatible with your rear hub specs.

Working fine on my beater bike atm. Squeaks a bit but that's because I've been putting off servicing the bike.

Might have been. Can't remember anymore. You need to check out what they're offering atm. It used to be 30mm, then DUB, so you never know 😁

@@premierS3 you happy with cranks in general? Looking at 165s for TT bike. So a 3 bolt Xcadey/sigeyi powermeter (Sram fit)should fit them if so could have a nice custom crank for 400euro approx.pity its 30mm as all my stuff is 24mm.

For the price yeah. I have it on my beater bike. Right now there's some creaking I haven't yet diagnosed.

Lol I still have no idea how to tighten the cap but it has never moved from the factory position over the past two years

@@splinelaboratories thanks for reply, but I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong, if I apply even moderate torque to tighten the drive side then the crank just gets v stiff and dies not turn freely.... Its a new bb, I put the spacer marked road on left crank. Unless I find solution going to have to swap for another crank.

​@@daviddavidson7151 The spacer should go on the right side of the crank. For me, the road spacer was too narrow and the crank had a few mm of play in the BB when tightened to 50nm. I also tried the MTB spacer, but it had the same problem you're facing, and would completely stiffen up when tightened more than 10nm. So I took a carbon headset spacer and sanded it down to 3.5mm thick, now the crank has no play and spins freely at 50nm.

@@splinelaboratories Bonjour, j'ai le même problème quand je sers le pédalier, j 'ai mis une entretoise à gauche et pas à droite (coté pédalier), car ma ligne de chaine n'est pas bonne si j'ajoute une entretoise à droite ! Que faire pour que ça tourne librement (mon cadre fait 68 mm)

@@NicolasDewaele7700 The crank spacer must go on the same side as the chainring. For me, the "road" spacer was too thin, and the "mtb" spacer was too thick (I could not turn the pedals when it was fully tightened). I made my own crank spacer that was 3.5mm thick from a 29mm diameter carbon headset spacer and it works great

Have you figured it out? I have the same with a BSA thread.

@@paulb9769 I just bought a load of spacers and messed around to get it tight🤷‍♂️

Try different combinations of spacer thickness untill there is about 1.5 to 2mm of lateral play then put a 29mm wavy washer on Drive side and then adjust the preload ring. Do not fully compress the wavy washer. Doing this setup garantees not over loading the bearings AND it pickup side play as wear and tear happens so it doesn’t need frequent readjustments. I always add wavy washer to crank installations.

Yeah they have their own tool. Zrace/Zitto has these tools for sale. Count the notches on your bearing caps and make sure they match the number of teeth on the tool you're ordering. I had to buy it twice to get it right.

I have a 5 in one Bottom Bracket Cup tool from Amazon. One of them works, but I couldn't tell you which. The brand is VGEBY, but i'm sure there are others. I came here looking for installation advice, but I guess you just wing it and hope for the best.

Wondering the same. If someone could measure the chainline with ring mounted on inside and also outside it would be great!

@@hugovadeboncoeur807 I actually got it. It was couple of month ago, but if I am not mistaken it was around 45-47mm.

It also depends how the BB is spaced on frame and how the crank is spaced on BB. I wish they made available some simple technical drawings

grease was surely too thick. i used some china bb came with the bike some time ago, after 3-4 ride, then it start to turn freely as it should be

Sounds Like toi Michel preload on the BB coming from crankset. Make sure preload ring is screwed all the way towards crank arm before install. If still too much preload remove some of the spacers untill you get a bit of free lady to right space and pickup that space by then adjusting the preload ring. If you have removed all spacers and it is still too tight your last resort is to remove the preload adjuster and try again. If still too tight you bought the wrong crank for your BB shell width.

But what fell this crankset? you fell solid for climbing or ride with high potency??

i've been having the same problem. if i run it any looser, there's a quite a bit of play with the cranks

I suspect it's a design flaw. There is no preload adjustment, so you basically set the preload by tightening it, so it naturally preloads the BB bearings.

Any joy?

@@paulb9769 2mm spacers on either side seems to work and I'm able to torque it up firmly.

@@asdfqwerwret How are you finding it? Would it work on a 9 speed?

Nope. Although I haven't been opening it a lot either.

@@premierS3 I had the same problem as yours, I'm wondering if I buy another arm or if I change crankset

Depends on what you're looking for. If you're looking to shave off some weight then definitely. Can't say anything about performance.

@@premierS3 how is the performance so far?

Works fine

Hello , do you have forget to install the Metal-Wavering ( like a Spring) ? I had the same Problem . best Regards , Mike

​@@m.h.79 I ended up taking a headset spacer and sanded it down to 3.5mm thick, it seems to work well as crank spacer. It actually fits perfectly around the 29mm crank. I did not see any spring that was included with the crankset

Do you think it's worth it to upgrade to this from tiagra crankset?

@@atomus0916 It seems more solid to me in construction than a tiagra crank but I wouldn't call it a strict upgrade.

@@splinelaboratories weight wise it's a good upgrade right? Since the durability sounds good basing on what you've said.