That's a great question, mainly because it touches on the "why" of some of the western designs. That is a "buscadero drop" which was requested by the customer. That design was introduced by Hollywood, and even the most ardent single action shooters will point out that it has no real historic basis. Straight belts were used as working belts, but the buscadero looked better on the big screen.

Most loops are about 3/4". If they stack to close, the belt won't straighten out, and your rounds are stuck. 22s are closer, and I have a separate jig for those.

Not for a 1911, but it would be an interesting build.

I use a Craftool 3/4" oblong punch. I like the sharply parallel profile. Tandy carries them.

"For the loops, I use a lighter weight latigo leather that I usually get at a local muzzle loading shop. Actually, I feel the leather and pick out something that seems like it will work well. They are sold in 2-3" x 72" straps, and I'll cut those to width to meet me needs." I would guess they are in the 4-5oz. range.

@workadaygunleather3331 I appreciate your reply. I will have to go through my stock. I really like the one you made, very nice. Thanks again.

For the belt portion, I use regular Veg Tan, the same 8/9oz I use for holsters. For the loops, I use a lighter weight latigo leather that I usually get at a local muzzle loading shop. Actually, I feel the leather and pick out something that seems like it will work well. They are sold in 2-3" x 72" straps, and I'll cut those to width to meet me needs.

@@workadaygunleather3331 Thank You Sir!

I have a "sizing belt" that has a corresponding letter for each hole. Or, I add 4+ inches to your jean size .... OR, I remake it if it didn't fit the first time. Preferably, I use the former method.

I have dipped on occasion, but with an item this big, I would need a LOT of dye and a big tub. I also find I have less yield with the dye, as there is a lot more that ends up in the container in the end. I also have limited space and it helps to work on parts of the belt instead of the whole belt at once. On smaller items, I sometimes use zip lock bags to dye.

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It does. The thread takes on an "antiqued" look after dying.

The vacuum has it's advantages, such as not beating up the mold guns (several tons of pressure will wear them out quickly). The downside is the need to remove wrinkle lines on the leather - it's a trade off!

I knew someone would tell me. Thanks ... leaf liner it is!

@@workadaygunleather3331 My bad. I meant veiner... not liner.

I have made shotgun bandoliers, and finished one a couple months ago. I'll add that to the video list. Thanks!

That's a couple great questions! Saddle stitching is actually the strongest form of leather stitching, since each thread covers both sides of the leather, as opposed to twisting halfway. Both meet the needs, but saddle stitch is great for hand work. I singe the dauber to eliminate stray fibers on the wool. It makes it a clean edge to put the edging on.

That's another downfall of the small shop. If you'll see, I've figured a little (very little ) out on improving that in some of my newer videos. I'm hoping my videographer skills improve along this journey. Thanks for watching!

For carry purposes, this allows you to draw the gun to your front. You support hand should be in front of you at your center and the gun and strong hand should come up to meet it. If the holster was raked backwards, you would draw it to your rear and quite possibly end up pointing the gun at yourself, or "flagging" your side. Cross draws draw towards the grip, but they are positioned differently.

Sorry so late on the response, it's been a busy Fall so far. That gun is similar to the smaller Walthers and even the Sig P230. Those fit well with a Prudent (like the holster in this video), or even an Appendix carry. They DO make a mold for that gun and your gun would not be needed!

This works better than my first response ... The slots themselves are made with a 1 3/4" oblong punch. This allows for a standard 1 1/2" belt to fit nicely. The placement of the slots falls into the art-meets-science range. I figure out where I want the gun to sit and run the slots accordingly. I figure the top of the slots will run along the top of the belt. I often start over as soon as I place the slots because I visualize the holster from there. The slots are actually the first element of the actual holster to go in the pattern. Everything else is based off of those and the gun itself.

@@workadaygunleather3331 Thanks for the info and for the response. Great work.

I have to apologize ... I just saw your questions. For "oil" finish, I just use neatsfoot oil, and then a resolene topcoat (airbrushed). You can put that on with a dauber as well. Edges are just burnished with water and finished with Edge Kote. When I dye, I just use the Pro (Oil) Dye and resolene.