First year 12 volt & V8

Like others said - thank YOU. Other videos are long winded, over explaining, telling me to remove, blah, blah, blah. Instead of Just Show Me! This was the ticket. Thank YOU

Do you know how Autel scanners query for OBD2 PIDs over CAN? The standard seems to be that scanners must send an SID of 0x7DF as a CAN request. However, my logic analyzer shows several transmissions initiated from the Autel scanner, but none of them contain the SID 0x7DF.

Thanks! Cable was fine but latch arm was sticky. This plus WD40 did the trick!

I recently changed my hpfp due to not having anymore power and not running .. so I recently bought a new hpfp and I went on the cheaper side it ran ok for over a week and now it is doing that same rattle sound sounds in the engine and under the exhaust .. and the line that goes to the high pressure fuel pump rattles crazy .. do u think the part I got was defective or maybe I should go original dealer part?

Tracing is upside-down

You're a wizard! Thanks, this worked for me. With a plastic spoon wedged under the hood, the release went 'twang' when I pulled it back and the hood was up an extra 2'' !

Good video bro.keep at it, it's only gets better.scope known goods to get better. Snap the throttle also, to get more information. 😊.you are correct. Love the passion to learn and get better

are you using the differential pressure transducer on the radiator, its so very sensitive have to be careful with it , i just use the pressure transducer on low setting. also you could drain some coolant and use a pressure regulator on co2 gas and pressure the cooling system and use co2 detector in the cylinder you suspect. gas will go threw a small leak where water may not. since i use co2 for leaks, ac etc with detector, i find many ways to use it.hope that helps

just by looking at the last part of the video you definitely had a closed exhaust valve with two compression events in 360 degrees, you dont even need to look at intake sensor, glad u are trying this, its good training, but sometimes simple is better. if you rotate engine to the exhaust stroke and apply pressure in that cylinder it will come out exhaust ,if exhaust valve is closed it will build compression and will tell you the same issue without the complicated set ups . but i do love in cylinder tests lots of info in those wave forms.

HOLY SHNIKES! This worked first try!!!!!!!!!! A Billion likes if i could

Diggin the glasses cutie

Dude thanks I have exactly the same issues

Thanks for articulating this so well. This sound just started on my 2019 Pilot at 102K. I thought it was an exhaust leak somewhere. I just checked the hose by the heat shield and its vibrating like crazy. Time to get it fixed. :)

Great job, I’ve been chasing the same issue. I replaced the door harness, thought it fixed it, After a month it cam back.

Well put man Genuine honesty Most techs whom have the aptitude in the industry to really dig deep on an issue may not have the greatest personality(myself) however we can solve most anything given information and capability. I learn from anyone willing to share…. You and others You are for sure good at fluid communication and talking in front of a camera Keep it up homie

Bro definitely exhaust valves on both cyl 5 and 2 are not operating. Pop valve covers on both banks and inspect rocker arms / cams lobes. Good luck.

26.30 Looks like exhaust valve on 2 not opening. Other way to check is borescope in cylinder and slowly rotate engine and check for valve opening. Just finished video, also ditto on 5. And a headgasket!!😂😂😂 Nice one brother, keep em coming.

NO!!! Don't remove the attenuator! Adjust you reading from the scope!

(@ 16:00 in the video) Did you check the dipstick for antifreeze mixed in the oil? What does your exhaust look like? If it smokes white or blue you have a problem with bad rings, or head gasket. Then you know which direction to go in!

Ok...you have a misfire on all cylinders. So your primary problem isn't to focus on the cylinder compression. Focus instead first on what modules are active, and the ones that aren't. Pull a out a breakout box, and check for CAN Bus resistance! It should be around 60 ohms. If not... you may have one of the resistors (or the path to) that's either open or shorted! If the resistance is good then you may have a wiring problem OR component that is affecting the firing. Hope this helps.😄

hi, do i need an oscilloscope to connect adxl335 to computer?

Great Video. Is this comparable to Pico NVH Kit? I mean, can we analyze frequency and determine if this is tire noise or a bearing noise? Can you comment on frequency response and accuracy and such? I want to know if this is just for a fun project or this can be as useful as a Pico NVH kit ? Thank you.

No entendí 😢

Did the new HP fuel pump fix the issue?

This brings back memories... Back in the early 70's I had a typical for the era, POS '68 station wagon and the hood latch apparently became worn and so one time I thought I had closed it, but soon found out I hadn't. Well, on the freeway, the hood opened and lifted up and slammed back against the windshield. I didn't realize how fast I could open the hand crank window so I could see ahead with my head sticking out of said window.... Cars of the era had no secondary hood latch. Little wonder the Japanese cars quickly earned a reputation for superior quality.

Hot damn! I was watching videos of guys taking wheels and fender liners off to get to cable junctions and replacing the latches and cable sets and came across this video. So I said: Why not try it, I have the exact same plastic tool you used. Bingo, as soon as i inserted the tool, up pops the hood on my 2020 QX60 since the hood release was already pulled in the cabin.. So I lubed up the latch and cable end while the hood was up. Many, many thanks for this video. 😂

Just the tip

Ford PIP & SPOUT kzfaq.info?search_query=FORD+PIP+AND+SPOUT+SCANNERDANNER

sound like you have the fuel pump recall issue. go take it to the dealer to confirm?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y6yjnMdlqte8kZ8.html&si=omFjacm96G0CdjCF

What a classic. Guy needs to get into this century on his truck.

Thank you ❤

IS HONDA WORTH BEING CALLED A DOMESTIC CAR BRAND ?????????

I FIND IT CURIOUS ,,,,,,,,,, THAT NONE OF THE BIG BRAND SANTOOL MANUFACTURING COMPANIES DOES NOT HAVE NO TRAINING WHAT SO EVER ON THE HONDA PRODUCTS THANKS FOR YOUR TIME !!!

Nice job! I've seen the ETCS fuse blow many times when the car is reverse-boosted.

MORE VIDEOS PLEASE ,,,,,,,, LOVE THE EQUIPMENT AND YOUR INFORMATIVE DIAGNOSTIC THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND EFFORT !!!

Tu es un vraie genie, mech. Merci

Well I saved this very long one for last today and I will try to keep the comments to a minimum, ya right. Nice plus for your channel is the story telling of the history of the symptoms, something that most channels do not do well, might only show the symptom with no back story or vehicle history which is a requirement if we follow our ASE training. Older vehicle but we see a reason to not disconnect power during a simple battery change, all OBD Monitor Data gone. What if we live in a state with Emission testing and you are on your way there after changing the battery, NO GO. 15 MODULE COUNT on the TOPOLOGY and Health Report pages, thanks for that. High Voltage codes typically cone from a battery charger going up near 15 volts and not even that high also. Everybody is different but once I knew there was no ECM Control of the Starter Relay, I am going to bypass the relay at least to see if the starter end of the circuit is working beyond the relay and then back to DIAG the ECM side, at least now I have confirmed a good portion of the entire job, 50% of the schematic is done, if the bypass test worked? You spend a lot of money on a scanner and did not scan all the live static PIDs, regardless I do not trust a scanner 100% but it is a good guide, I am a scope guy myself. Again, you are not following a tried and true process, check for codes, (still sitting in the driver seat) scan for live data before starting, is everything stable, is everything within spec, is everything that needs to be on actually on, is anything missing/dead, is a code that was just viewed affecting some live static data (this is where the library comes in with as a minimum of screenshots of past jobs on equivalent Silverado in this Generation, Engine size, comparable Model [Chevy, GMC], same powertrain different vehicle), (still sitting in the driver seat) scan for live data during a crank event (or bidirectional control event) or after starting, watch during warm up, maybe set up some PIDs in graph mode that you might suspect but continue to look around. The true issue, do we really understand what we are looking at, looking for? MAINLY, does anything standout like a sore thumb? What you are learning, this entire process needs to be annotated somewhere, for now, on the schematic, front and back, write down the modules and PIDs that need to be checked next time as soon as the job is started (for a similar job), we simply do not have the memory to remember every step on every car on every job, NO GO. HMMM, jump start typically means higher than 12.6V which will increase voltages everywhere. Someday you will be a boss, a mentor, a trainer, and you will need to pass on what you have learned, you will not have time to teach face to face when you have a shop to run, this is where your library will come in very handy. Can your Troop read, git after it. Can they search a file folder in Alphanumeric order for your old schematics or other documents, git after it. Don't forget, after clearing codes earlier we still need to call home sometimes to see how things are, any new problems pop up or come back? Your ASE visual inspection without a WIGGLE Test will be around somewhere in the process. I personally have never seen a single person or video repairing a vehicle by reverse engineering a CAN Packet, waste of time, like you said, did not need to do it. The term CAN on an older GM is GMLANHS because of copyright issues with Ford. I have also noticed in your other video that you do not immediately go for the schematic with the greatest amount of info available, this time it is biting you in the ass. Don't scribble on your schematics to line shit out, you need to keep that forever, make more notes on the other side. A missing message should set a code for unreliable data, I forget the exact name? You got a couple starts, a WONKY module but which one??? I will testify that your too much talking is NOT wasteful. Trust me I can point you to a couple of channels with wasteful chatter (USA) and repeat chatter (AFRICA) because of the Region the repeater comes from or personality issue? FINAL NAIL, that PID should have been seen a long time ago and annotated in the notes as time goes by (when properly inspecting all PIDS in important modules) of what and where to look at PIDs at the beginning of a similar job, the next time around, I am not saying the problem should have been figured out a long time ago but when you figured out that was a CAN signal, the funny part is you probably just figured that out also, GREAT CATCH & GREAT CALL & although way too long, GREAT DIAGNOSTIC VIDEO, another GREEN Mark. You are too young, this is why manufacturers put a metal clip just below the driver seat on the floor and a hole in the floor mat, to hold the floor mat back away from the accelerator pedal because people have died in WOT crashes, you need to annotate your RO which is too late now (but in the future jobs) so call your customer to inform them of the problem (if you didn't already) so you are no longer liable since it is on your permanent video on the internet, CYA Pard, no joke. Maybe those are AM floor mats?? Next time for this same job, how many scope voltages need to be verified, how many test light locations need to be verified after seeing this ONE PID is OK to make the very fast call on a bad ECM but still charge for hours of diag time based on your experience as part of the fee? SWEET JOB You are not a mechanic, you are a technician which is a step above a mechanic, bring yourself up a few notches Pard.

Thanks for the good close-up view of the codes and descriptions. Made an assumption that a couple of wires at the A Pillar with Dead Ends when it appears they are the problems. I notice YT Providers verbalizing a guess as to what they are seeing and 99% of the time, they are wrong, you know the saying in our field, test, don't guess. Simply mention what you are seeing and move forward with your inspection and test procedures to rule out broken wires and they might in fact be dead ends, but don't guess, how many times do we see dead end terminals in a door hinge wire harness?? You already notice prior work in the area. I don't know why when folks make wire harness repairs, they don't try very hard to isolate the repairs from each other, they simply rewrap the harness as a complete unit, I like to wrap a few turns of tape around one repair to isolate if from the other repair and continue to wrap the entire harness. Connectors are known to be poor repairs, the get hot and they melt and then copper is exposed and can short to another repair. I try not to put repairs side by side, I like to stagger them, I see where the previous mechanic added some wire to create an extension, if he was going to go this extra step, then move the repairs away from each other, yes, this means extra connection but for a good reason. Your repairs, looks nice but the 4 connectors are side by side as pairs. The 2 repairs closer to the door side should have been extended into the door and away from the swivel hinge area where the wires are known to break and the repair is a weak point, at least stagger those two connections into an easy access inside the door pls. Guessing at a malfunction again, motor goes up ok but intermit to go down, the motor only has a power and ground from the switch, but the switch reverses the power and ground direction, maybe also assuming a good replacement door switch assy, NEW, Never Ever Worked. LATER IN VIDEO IT WAS NOT REPLACED. You can bypass the switch and JUMP/HOT WIRE power and ground to the correct wires for each door to force the window motors to work up and down to verify the motor and the wires and any connectors in the circuits and the regulators mechanically and the window track for not being jammed In one direction and make a call on the Master switch or circuitry. MAY NOT WORK ON NEWER MODELS WITH LIN COMM CONTROLS (not always LIN, can be a slower CAN COMM)?? HOTWIRE worked from the back, but this did not test all the circuit from the front. LATER ID'd a circuit problem (next time can save 30 minutes but use today's time for the estimate). Where is your library of motor OHM reading especially for fuel pumps, blower motors, fan motors, any motor, any solenoid, any fuel injector, etc. This also goes for normal AMP Draw for these units. Keeping a custom library can save your butt many times, yes, I admit, it is a lot of extra work no doubt. But what is there with you right now, a schematic with handwritten notes to keep for all times, but wait, I have a different Ford with the same motors, where are my notes hiding, this is where the extra work comes in with your library, what is more important, time with your library (dedication to your career) or your family? What is the purpose of the diode, HINT, AC Compressor (Clutch COIL winding)? What is the purpose of the diode in a relay? Is it the same for a power window motor switch? QUESTION you don't need to answer, when you are making a video and moving the camera around and other distractions caught on film, do you give a little extra time for the ONE hour of work that was previously approved? NO IDEA where the circuit problem is for the back door??? Is Part 2 coming?? Thank you for the Case Study, nice one, the schematics are a real plus. I am sure next time this experience will come in very handy. Go over to ScannerDanner and a very recent video (last weekish) on switch testing, not sure if it will rattle some brain cells but I think your tail chasing actually started a little sooner than you marked in the video, when you had power when flipping the switch both ways was the beginning for me?? Another video marked as GREEN.

Go ahead and build yourself a little DLC Y Cable cheap and simple BOB for your PWR & GNDs so you don't wear out your pins over time there Pard. Also Imagine if your scan tool does not light up, you have quick access to the PWR PIN as a second opinion, pardon the pun, if maybe the fuse is blown for PIN #16 you will also need to figure out another bit of info, does your scanner tie pins 4 & 5 together internally? If no, then you can also test both GND #4 & #5 as they also come loose sometimes and you will need to go find that problem as well, best to keep them separated. Thank you for taking the extra time to EDIT out the EDITABLE non-relevant bits. That can be a task in itself. I thought you were goin to the A Pillar before goin in the door? Do you have power while you are trying to measure resistance? NO GO. This time noticing a bit more inner Monologue coming out, just do what you need to do Pard, we don't mind frame changes without prior knowledge. @35:00 BAD Door Latch Confirm, What about all the other SYMPTOMS the truck had possibly due to the bad switch, is now not the time to see about those intermit concerns? @36:00 you jumped the BCM signal to GND to test the GND Circuit, would you call that a loaded GND, I know the switch is doing the same thing but the going test on YT is to run power to your lead and insert at least a 2A bulb as a load for the GND side only, not monitoring the scanner for a PID change, that test was OK. Does the door counter also need a key cycle, key removal??? Ass in and out of the seat??? Different cars need different scenarios??? TWO case studies with what seem to be simple fixes, bad CMP or CKP and a door switch, but I can seriously appreciate the great effort taken to prove the root cause of the fault. It sharpens our electronic skills and might save the customer some money on parts even the labor time is stretched out a bit but that depends on how you charge, first-hour diag only and then labor time for mechanical parts changing backed up with tests during the first hour and maybe some more testing with mechanics in additional hours, that we should have estimated to the owner as we need permission for ONE, TWO or X hours of maintenance in advance?? Much appreciate this case study as well, I have seen more truck doors with two latches or switches. Only question here, was there power on the wires that you were testing for OHMS?? Not trusting the Schematic for the door switch connector wire colors lost some real-time, did you count that as labor or forgive that section? I caught a YT Tech teaching noobs how to do some power testing at the Main Fusebox and totally doing it wrong, even for beginners. he then verbalized that he needed to go get another hour approved by the owner to carry on with the diagnosis as he worked at a shop. I tore in his ass in the Comments that if I was the owner and I saw that video of wasting time and doing the electronics lesson wrong, I would take his ass to court for getting another hour, and the entire screw-up was on video and my electronics expert witness going against him in court would have his ass for sure. I can see the mistake here was legit, no worries. According to ScannerDanner, we are to charge for our lack of experience on every job as the first time job and we get paid to learn. We are confident it is burned into your memory banks as it is burned into my custom library that I keep for every YT Video that I create notes for. Thank you for this case study.

Hello Brother, I am new to your channel, look forward to see what you are all about, from scanning through a few videos, looks good, I am into diag type channels that use the 4 S's, Service Info, Scanner, Schematics and Scope along with some other minor S's. I normally text while I watch and if a problem is fixed later in the video then I typically remove my negative remarks from earlier in the video, by negative I mean constructive criticism with the best of intentions. I am semi retired Mobile Diagnostician, and I call myself a YT Auto Diag GURU, I know what a normal video consists of and when a mechanic is not very good and tries to extend their video for some crazy reasons just to hear themself talk as though a 30 minute video is going to make them more money than the 15 minute video that it should have been while walking around in circles and repeating themself way too much. Right away I love your intro, reading the vehicle data from your RO and giving a bit of history, most YT Providers can't even give us the correct year of the vehicle when the sticker is staring them in the face. I like to ask a favor from all techs, please scroll down your scanner to show a full TOPOLOGY if you have that type, or scroll down so we can count all the modules installed in each vehicle pls, different scanners count in a different manner, I see this scanner also shows not installed modules, sometimes one is installed but it's dead. If this is your case and another module comes back to life by the end of the video after repairs, pls do another post-scan and scroll down, much appreciated. Same year, engine, vehicle, and different trim may have extra modules or less count so we keep records of this stuff and recommend you do also. This type of coil pack with a waste spark system can have a single cylinder misfire based on a CMP or CKP sensor glitch resetting ECM electronic timing and skipping that single spark, very weird but I have seen it proven and as we would all think, needs a new coil pack, NOT so fast. Need the scope to see it in action. Not bad Service Info, on a CHRY is is common for a CMP code to be a bad CKP, this is where not using a scope can get all the lesser techs/mechanics/DIYers into trouble, this is very common problem as the book says, a CKP CAN CAUSE, not WILL cause, it is very very possible. Keeping a collection of different Relays is a great idea to practice, especially for these more expensive types ASD, Honda Main, etc. TRAINING: zoom in on the bottom of a coil secondary signal and watch the dwell very close up, you will see the amp wave embedded in the voltage waveform if your scope has great resolution, no need for an AMP CLAMP, the same for the Injector and you can see the Pintle Hump Opening in the voltage wave where we normally think the voltage wave is to see the pintle closing, and the Amp Ramp is to see the pintle opening, NO MORE.@26:50 DOUBLE FIRING EVENT I mentioned based on false feedback to the ECM messing up the timing start point which then around another 720* rotation can figure out where it really is, just to get messed up again. You must be on the wrong wire on the ECM going from 5V to 12V. On many vehicles there is more than one 5VRef output at the ECM, CHRY/Jeep may have a second wire for the Transmission only. MISTAKE, maybe the partial schematic not showing all circuits involved?? You touched it and fixed it HEHEHEHE, This is why some high-end diagnosticians stopped back probing but piercing has its problems also but less of them. Back probing too deep can take out a module. I feel your hypo is right on Brother, waiting to see the shorted harness or bad connector soon. @36:00 CMP & CKP MATCH on a CHRY, no way?? Coming back in the next day and giving us a SITREP, awesome, are you exMIL? @42:20 WAVEFORM & ANALYSIS Missing Tooth Visible 120* OK. I see a CKP Glitch before the actual start of the Double Strikes for a full engine rotation to clear it up as expected. On a CHRY of this CKP style, you see where spark should happen between the third and fourth CKP teeth, as the timing chain stretches, the spark will move away from this exact location so you will know the time for a chain or belt when more than say 10* retarded. SAGA: this is a common CHRY problem, you will more than likely see it again and again at your age young man in the years to come. @50:00 If the engine mounts are sagging, you will have to jack up the motor to get to that bolt in the floor pan, good luck. Looking forward to watching the rest today going towards the latest. My style is to wait for 5 good videos based on the title and then binge-watch, in this case about 7 weeks, today's numbers are 5 out of 9 based on titles, so how you name your video can be important for some viewers, this one is a very good name. AWESOME VIDEO Partner, not bad for a Good Ole Boy. I won't be so long in the future. No real criticism, you went off camera at the right time, you explained what we missed, you found the problem due to a real analysis of the scope pattern, and you tried your damndest to get an OEM part, and no YT Provider verbalizing every damn thought out of your brain to our ears. I am wondering if TWO per week is doable for you? That would improve your standings with a lot of folks but this novel is my first impression and I know what I am talking about, let's see what the next 4:8 have in store. My title name for my purposes: Jeep Grand-Cherokee 2002 4.0L Start & Stall P0340 P1391 P0351 Intermit Misfire R2 AM CKP ........<<<there is the CHRY joke for a 10 second diagnosis

I ran into the same problem with my Toyota Tacoma it was -35c pulled the interior hood release nothing happened. Not sure if Ice was a problem but I beat the front of my hood with my fists and tried again….. still nothing. I tried pulling the interior hood release again and it is just like the one in the video. This time I reached under and pulled the cable attached to the hood release while using the hood release did the trick

Hi, thanks for the video. I just got a question for you . Have you tried to use this scope with laptop instead of tablet? I tried but no luck right now

i am at the point now where I need to learn how to decode the can ID's, messages and so forth. Do you have any recommendation on software, tools(Other than pico scope. Have one of those) and training where I can take my knowledge to that next level?

Thank you for the video, same issue with my 90 300zx, God bless.

What tool are you talking about that allows you to record and export to excel. Are you talking about the Pico export feature?

Thank you

I have a Subaru Forrester. Your video was a big help. I used a wooden wedge. The kind you use when installing a door.

Nice work!