Photography Life

Пікірлер

@seanflinn5341 2 күн бұрын

Thank you so much for this video. I really appreciate all of the information. I recently purchased some filters. I wish I would have found this video prior to my purchase, but I feel I did pretty good overall. This in-depth video is very helpful for me as it gave me more information then just scratching the surface of a topic.

@costtv 5 күн бұрын

What’s Up, Im Not Educated At All On Filters… However, All My Video Content I Record Outdoords… I’m Looking For A Good VIR- ND Filter And A Polarized Lens Filter … I’m Working With A Sony A6600 My Lenses Are: Sony E16=55mm 2.8 And Sony E15mm F1.4.. Thank You

@lricuducht189 7 күн бұрын

F2.8 means😀

@albertphillips447 7 күн бұрын

Say Hey Spence! Great stuff, watched it twice and saved it and want to play in the Macro Garden. Really appreciate the sense of fun style you bring to this subject. Look forward to watching more of your work.

@iTomSawyer 8 күн бұрын

thank you for the knowledge

@PhotographyLifeChannel 7 күн бұрын

Thank you, Tom! Glad you found it useful.

@timculler1454 8 күн бұрын

Fantastic explanation!

@timculler1454 8 күн бұрын

Fantastic explanation, Spencer! One question : is the hyperfocal technique going to give you as sharp focus at near and far points as focusing on each and using focus stacking ( which of course is cumbersome). In other words , do you only recommend focus stacking when the hyperfocal technique isn’t really working well or do you use focus stacking to make both near and far images maximally sharp? I sometimes think using hyperfocal technique that my far part of the image are still a bit soft. Thanks, Tim

@PhotographyLifeChannel 8 күн бұрын

Focus stacking technically gives you sharper results, but I rarely use it. Too much can go wrong and focus stacking almost always gives you little artifacts in the photo if anything was moving, even a blade of grass. When I focus stack, it’s only when f/16 plus this double-the-distance hyperfocal method did not give you sufficient depth of field. Even then, to minimize errors, I focus stack with photos taken at f/11 or f/16 so that I need to stack as few photos as possible.

@timculler1454 8 күн бұрын

Thanks you so much for your reply, Spencer. I understand your answer, but i am still perplexed as to why my landscape photos are softer in the distance. I am following your techn and getting the close objects sharp but not the distant parts. Using a z5 with z24-200 at 24mm so must be operator error. I have searched far and wide on the internet but no help. Any advice would be very welcome-and I understand if you don’t have time to respond. Your tutorials are the best! Tim

@PhotographyLifeChannel 8 күн бұрын

Thanks Tim! If it’s always the further portion that’s blurrier than the nearest foreground, it either means that you’re focusing too closely (either your initial estimate is a little incorrect or your estimate of “double” is a little incorrect) or the lens has some field curvature. In other words, its plane of focus isn’t actually a plane, but rather, curves inward. The 24-200mm does have some field curvature so that might be what you’re seeing, or maybe it’s a combination of that and inaccurate focus distance. Either way, you will need to focus a bit further than you have been. And make sure that your aperture is sufficiently narrow. If the foreground is close, f/11 or f/16 is necessary. Don’t shoot at f/5.6 if you need a lot of depth of field.

@timculler1454 8 күн бұрын

Wow! Thanks so much for your fast and clear response. I will work on your recommendations. Keep up the fantastic work work!

@ScreamingLord88CH 10 күн бұрын

this was one of the best tutorial that ive seen 👍 thank you

@jimkok1957 11 күн бұрын

I often take photos of trains and there is often reflection on the metal or white shirts of the crew.

@Reza-S1340 12 күн бұрын

When you mention distances of 2 feet and 4 feet from the camera, are you referring to the direct distance to the subjects, or the distance between the sensor plane and a plane passing through the subject, which is parallel to the sensor plane?

@PhotographyLifeChannel 12 күн бұрын

The latter! It’s the distance between the plane of your camera sensor and the shortest line to the subject.

@ksnmurthy4476 12 күн бұрын

A fantastic tutorial. An authentic details with convincing explanations. Thank you Spencer.

@clarehendrickson2865 15 күн бұрын

So you covered the problem of having not enough light. What about if you have too much light? Can there be a separate process for that? This video is so logical and clear. I would love to see it replicated.

@PhotographyLifeChannel 15 күн бұрын

Yeah good question, in practice you will hardly ever have too much light. You can simply use a faster shutter speed if it gets bright - no downside to that 99% of the time. In rare cases, like if you want motion blur with a long shutter speed on a sunny day, you will need to put a neutral density filter on your lens to cut down the light. Other situations would be trying to use a very bright maximum aperture on a sunny day (like f/1.4 at the beach), which could max out your camera’s shutter speed (usually 1/8000th second). Also, for filming smooth video or shooting with a flash in very bright light, you may need to use a moderate shutter speed like 1/200 to 1/50 second. Neutral density filters are the answer there too. But I’ll stress that these are all rare situations. I’ve never really run into the problem of too much light as a landscape photographer and haven’t used my ND filter in years.

@clarehendrickson2865 15 күн бұрын

O my gosh thank you!!! Where have you been all my life!!!

@maheshmsmgwildlife4231 18 күн бұрын

Super, lesson and good suggestions..mahesh USA./ India.

@victorparra4131 18 күн бұрын

Awesome way to explain this

@kelsi6273 21 күн бұрын

Your video tutorials are in a class by itself. Thank you for all you do. Always looking forward to your next installment.

@kqschwarz 22 күн бұрын

Best description of polarizers ever. I was going to mention the effect of “angle” can create banding in the sky with panoramas, but you did mention that along with a caution to using a polarizer with wide angle lenses. Great job.

@adriennewest7712 23 күн бұрын

Thanks a lot, I have learned heaps!

@chriswittstruck282 23 күн бұрын

Nice vid thanks! Subbed.

@philip799 24 күн бұрын

I've already had a little dabble in astrophotography, but I definitely feel I need more guidance, and I found your video so clear and informative. Thanks for putting this together. Picking up on your comment about how the Milky Way looks to the eye, I was on holiday in Santorini, sitting on our hotel terrace enjoying a glass of wine, looking out to sea, across the Caldera, and after about 15 minutes when my dark vision had kicked in, I said to my wife 'what the heck is that, it looks like a dusty cloud of stars', so I got my camera out and, without any astrophotography knowledge, took a shot. I now realise this is the Milky Way, and I sooooo wish I had the knowledge I do now, as the image wasn't great. But I was still excited to have seen the Milky Way for the first time in my life. I've been chasing it ever since, but sadly every time I go to a holiday destination with guaranteed low light pollution ... Mr Cloud or Mr Haze keep showing up and stopping me getting any photos. One day I'll get it ..... :-)

@patriciaarrance790 26 күн бұрын

Can you go over what flash settings. Ettl zoom auto bracketing exposure compensation sycncro etc.

@WanderingSwitchback 28 күн бұрын

I wish I'd found this when I was first starting astro! Thank you for this!

@rehfeldttw 28 күн бұрын

Very comprehensive review. Looking at your other videos, I decided to subscribe. Thank you for sharing.

@andycollins5983 Ай бұрын

This was an outstanding video! I had to subscribe!

@contrapposto8389 Ай бұрын

Extremely well explained. Thank you

@PhotoStian Ай бұрын

Thank you! This was informative

@genemcloud4114 Ай бұрын

Well done. Nice differentiation between just casual shooting up close and true macro shooting. Thanks!

@dudebro9091 Ай бұрын

Thank you so much!!!! I've struggled with my camera for a while now, but your videos make everything crystal-clear. Keep up the good work!!!

@vladantripkovic6122 Ай бұрын

It seems that the aliens controll- youtube 😊

@sidepieceseason1414 Ай бұрын

Thanks guy!

@PhotographyLifeChannel Ай бұрын

You got it, thanks for the super like!

@PinoAstro Ай бұрын

Great video!

@PhotographyLifeChannel Ай бұрын

Thank you!

@bckupp18 Ай бұрын

is canon rf85mm good for macro photography?

@PhotographyLifeChannel Ай бұрын

The RF 85mm f/2 Macro is a great lens for close-up photography, but note that its maximum magnification is 1:2 rather than 1:1. On a full-frame camera, this means you could fill the frame with something that’s about 72mm (2.8 inches) wide, rather than something that’s 36mm (1.4 inches) wide. So just make sure that’s enough for your work. You could also use extension tubes or other methods to get up to 1:1 magnification if necessary, but it would add some cost.

@onestepbeyond3171 Ай бұрын

Good Video, BUT BY FAR the best humor in photography videos! And I don't mean the UFO-Joke - that was really good though - I mean all of those those subtile humorous remarks while the video was running. Great!

@PhotographyLifeChannel Ай бұрын

I live for comments like this, thanks!!

@bluebirdski Ай бұрын

Been learning photography. Best description of the basics yet. Nice!

@RJ-wy6cx Ай бұрын

This is an absolutely awesome very very informative video one of the best I have watched about the lens polarizing filters

@charted8015 Ай бұрын

So cool

@Bleeper168 Ай бұрын

I'm brand new to photography and I've seen dozens of videos to help me prepare for astrophotography and NONE of them compare to how well made, planned out and informative as this one was. Thank you so much! I also have photopills and I have built a plan to go out to the sand dunes a couple hours away in about a month. I am so unbelievably excited to take my first astrophoto!

@alfredodallacort7187 Ай бұрын

Complimenti. Grazie

@nageshkr Ай бұрын

Thanks for the lovely and very informative video tutorial, Spencer! Some questions, from an amateur macro photographer, as I find my images are not always sharp: 1. I also use the Nikkor 105 mm macro lens you seem to be using in the video. As you say that you would use manual focus, do you set the switch on the lens to M/A instead of A? What about the VR switch ? Off or On? 2. On the camera (Nikon D500), should one set the lever on the side to AF or M? Thanks!

@PhotographyLifeChannel Ай бұрын

Hi Nagesh, it doesn’t matter which one you set - whether on the camera or on the lens (or both!) switching to M will get you to manual focus. As for VR, I leave it on. It helps a little to stabilize the viewfinder even at extreme magnifications. And there’s no harm in doing so. I hope this helps!

@harriska2 Ай бұрын

First time LR user and this is the very first video I've watch. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

@crumpeteer6477 Ай бұрын

Best explanation I've seen. Thanks

@petejansen8098 Ай бұрын

Nice, thank you from a nubie.

@normtesch1126 Ай бұрын

where did you get the math for f8 is equal to f64??

@PhotographyLifeChannel Ай бұрын

The diagonal of 8x10 film is about 313mm, and the diagonal of full-frame sensors is about 43mm. So the crop factor between them is about 7.3. An f-number of 64 divided by 7.3 gives you an f-number of 8.8. I guess saying f/9 in the video would have been more accurate, but either way, that’s how you get the same depth of field for a given composition on full-frame versus 8x10.