I've used E210 for two heating seasons so far, around 14 months of burning and I'm very pleased with this unit.

Its nice to know that family businesses like this exist. Seems like great folks.

Nice design. Thinking about a small hydronic system? My S130 is just a wee much for my 1700 sq ft house. Of course it works just fine, except spring & fall. I always felt a smaller BTU unit that had to work harder. All and all, I simply love my S130. You guys are the best out there.

Beautiful Boiler.Curious why oil is automatic switchover but propane is not? Thanks.

Where does the ash go?

I love this video

So is this setup to run 24/7? Or made to batch burn? Could this replace the need for an oil boiler in a new build

I would love to see more videos about maintenance and guidelines how to set up some parameters on this unit.

I've bought and installed this unit for my house last year. After first winter of using it I absolutely love it. Saved a lot of $ on heating my house. Highly recommend it!

Do you make a unit large enough to heat about 8000 sqft? A church and rectory.

Show the task of stacking the bricks inside. How long do those bricks last. Only one fire tube??? My old Essex boiler had 18!

How long before the ceramics have to be replaced?

cost effective btu? not any more Let's Go Brandon!

I know I ain't supposed to say this, but once upon a time you used to be able to burn wood in these. The design hasn't changed much and the Canadian's still do burn wood in theirs. So take it for what it's worth.

Looks like a great product.

This would look great in my home in Mercersburg, Pennsylvania

WOULD YOU SEND ME 1,TO TRY OUT IN MAINE ? THIS STOVE IS AWESOME...

beautiful! awesome. finally someone gets it.. no buffer tank needed either!

I bought my WOC55 in 2005, serial #007. It has faithfully heated our 2500 sqft home using wood, oil, soft coal, and hard coal with nothing more than annual maintenance and cleaning. I highly recommend this unit to anyone.

It must cost a fortune.

I'm presuming this is anthracite not bituminous coal.

I worked on one of these and I can say they are very nice stokers. Different that a Van Wert or EFM, but very nick stokers. COAL IS STILL KING IN MY BOOK!👍👍👍

I will be looking into this, want more info.

What about removing the old bricks

These are great people with a great company, could not recommend higher

I mean how much is a wood gun (price of one unit?

How much is a heat gun?

Great video very informative Thanks

what the type of the seal? any link for the seal?

Hi, I have an issue closing the door shut on the woodgun after finishing the whole process of placing the seal. Would you be able to advise anything, any idea, step I may do additional?

Where's part 2 ??

Nice boiler. How much

Beautiful... I 💘 it...

I have owned an E140 stainless woodgun for about 11 years and I do experience these problems also and not only when the combustion chamber is full. I have found that restricting the intake helps as Caleb mentioned. Split wood that is stored in a woodshed for an extended period of time will definitely "back-puff". It usually does not last very long, however if the unit has any (air) leaks at all the smoke will come out of those open joints as the combustion cycles from low to high in a rather dramatic fashion. It really sounds very similar to a steam railroad locomotive albeit not as loud. Since my unit is indoor I have taken several measures to make sure any smoke that is released is recycled to the intake and thereby recombusted. I do not have any experience with the other two items Caleb mentioned but I have a sneaking suspicion that if you plug one of the two holes in your furnace your BTU rating will suffer quite a bit. I really like the idea of the air diffuser but I am not sure how easily it is retrofitted into older units.

How often do the center bricks need to be replaced??

I am still planning out my new system for the near future when I do have the funds for the E180 boiler for my farm! I would be honored to have Jeff and his great crew up to see the final product!

I see that there is a new digital controller on the side of the this unit. Do you still offer the non digital controls version?? I’m planning on buying a E180 in the near future.

What model is the boiler in this video?

11 months later: In my case the puffing is not about the wood being to dry or two small but rather the rate of combustion. If I load the stove to the absolute top with large wet wood over a real hot layer of wood that is almost turned to pure charcoal and is burning really well and clean, the new load will begin to catch fire and if my air damper is anything but closed it will start to violently back puff. If I close the damper the puffing is just about stopped and all is well. This happens most noticeably on very cold nights. The fuel in the fire chamber just seems to be igniting the gases within the chamber creating small gaseous explosions that leak out around the door seals and out of the intake air tube. So I can run the boiler with the air damper fully closed and there doesn't seem to be any bad effect from doing so. The outside air temperature creates differant draft and fuel burning characteristics that do take time to learn how to adjust the draft to these conditions. If I burn smaller loads on milder days I can run my damper open more than half way, but I almost never run it wide open. I absolutely love the long burn times I get and the best thing I can say is that I am burning far less wood than ever before and I've been heating with wood boilers for more than 40 years and this wood gun is the best I've ever owned. PS. I don't work for or have anything to do with this company. In fact I bought my SS140 from someone who had to move and had bought it from the Alternate people who make it. I've owned more than three other types of wood boilers and there is nothing out there that compares to this unit.

Why does it look like there is a reducer on the exhaust flue pipe or is that something else? Is the bottom half double wall or some special type of pipe since it is super shiny then there is that connection between standard pipe that looks like a reducer?

Now this is a great video. Thanks.

I've been using wood fired boilers all of my life and presently own a SS140. The back puffing only happens when I fill the firebox to maximum capacity for an all night burn. My combustion air is supplied through a 6 inch pipe ducted from outside . I realize that the puffing happens when the gases in the fire box attempt to ignite within the fire box due to excess fuel being in the fire chamber. I think that the Wood Gun is the most efficient boiler I have aver owned and the best part about it is it produces no creosote in my three story chimney. Every other wood boiler that is not a gasification type seems to make creosote. The Wood Gun does not, at least for me. My wood for next year has been split to a much larger size and I'm hoping that will help reduce the puffing. I don't understand why plugging one of the heat exchange tubes would prevent the pre-combustion in the firebox but I am going to call for the diffuser set up and try that. It seems logical that it may cause more of the combustion air to be present in a larger area of the firebox and help with the puffing. Of all the people I know with all the different "gasification" boilers that are out there I think I can say without prejudice the Wood Gun is one of the most efficient and most controllable wood boilers ever built. Puffing is a small price to pay for all of the other positive attributes of these units.