I got them at a local auto parts store but if you aren’t in a hurry you can find them cheaper online. Be sure the get the correct type for your vehicle and rims. There are few variations. You can also buy them from the parts counter at a dealership.

I’m glad you saved some money and didn’t have to take your car to the shop! Thanks for the comment!

That’s awesome news! I’m glad you decided to give it a try and it worked for you too! Thank you for sharing your success here in the comments!

Thank you from Québec, Canada 🇨🇦

I’m glad you found my video helpful and you were able to start your car! Thank you for the nice comment!

Apparently not! I looked the 41DB002-02 on the official LiftMaster website and this is what I found: ( www.liftmaster.com/receiver-logic-board-315mhz/p/041DB002-2 ) "041DB002-2 RECEIVER LOGIC BOARD, 315MHz - DISCONTINUED This product is discontinued and is no longer available. There is no compatible replacement for this product. 041DB002-2 is a discontinued 315MHz Receiver Logic Board. Commonly used with 1/2 HP LiftMaster® and Chamberlain® Belt Drive Garage Door Openers; manufactured 2005 to 2015 only. The unit will feature a purple learn button. Please locate your model number and refer to the owner's manual for troubleshooting and support."

Thanks for leaving a comment and letting me know the ignitions switch didn't completely resolve your starting troubles. Sounds like the switch was only part of the problem. Hopefully it's not the starter solenoid but it could be if you are getting a click with no crank. In case you missed it, there is some additional information at the end of the video showing what I checked and fixed before I replaced the ignition switch. There is also a starter relay that could potentially be a problem and would be an easy repair. First off, make sure your battery is strong (load test, not just voltage check) and the connections and cables are good end to end. Once, on another car, one of the leads from the battery had a corroded section under the insulation midway through the cable that wasn't visible on the outside. It took me a long time to find it because I wasn't testing voltage drop from one end to the other. When you figure it out, feel free to drop an update in the comments. I'm sure someone else will find the information useful.

Did you ever try to use the back up key in the fob 😂 I turn it like twice And if it won’t start I use the key

@ZEUSTHEGODD no, the contacts inside my switch were burned. Using the key wouldn’t have made any difference. Zero starting issues with my Armada after replacing the ignition switch.

I have a friend who professionally repairs these boards and also works for a company in Florida that builds and maintains a large client base of pools. I’ll ask him about it. One thing he has mentioned is that he sees the bad pin connection problem more often on controllers in southern facing panel boxes that get hit by a lot of direct sunlight as opposed to ones mounted on the shady side of a building.

I added the link below. Also, googled if you turn off chlorinator after adding salt and found a number of sources instructing to do so. However, the video I posted specifically states it will/can affect the PCB.

You are correct! I asked the friend I mentioned above and here is his reply: “As a matter off fact - it is right to turn off the generator for the next 24hrs after adding salt. Here is why: The salt makes the water more conductive. The salt get poured into the pool and falls on the bottom. When it slowly desolves and the solution reaches the main drain ( or get sucked into the pool cleaner) it almost shortens out the control board. The board shuts off and displays „high salt“. There is a note in the owners manual to shut it off.”

Awesome! Thanks for sharing your success!

Awesome! Thanks for letting me know it worked for you too!

Thanks Terry!

That’s great news! I’m glad it worked for you too! Thanks for sharing your success!

I’m glad the reset trick worked for you too. Big thanks for sharing that it also works on a RX330!

There is no fan in the charger.

That’s great news! I’m glad it worked for you too! 😊

Should not matter much as long as it has a range of 0-60 PSI and the threaded end is 1/4”NPT. Other pressure ranges will work but 0-60 PSI is probably the best operating range to use for readability and accuracy on a 2” dial. Lots of gauge options pop up on Amazon with a search for “pool sand filter gauge”. Current price range is around $9 for a cheap one or $25 for a Hayward. I picked mine up from a local pool store for around $7.95.

@@fiveable I changed it today. Turned off the pump and clorinator and did the work. When I took the gauge off some water came out though. I should have needed to close the filter as well? All good now but my gauge marks 1 and it’s making a strange noise. What could be the issue

@ss_websurfer filter setting shouldn’t matter. Is your pump located on the ground at a lower level than the filter like mine? Sounds like you might still have some air in the system. Make sure the pump is primed. The way mine is set up I didn’t need to prime my pump and the air was pushed out when I started the circulation pump back up.

@@fiveable it’s the second week I have the pool. Complete noob here. There’s no weird sound anymore and I was reading my gauge wrong… there is 10 PSI now. I have an above ground pool. Pump and filter are next to each other in a level below the pool.

@@ss_websurfer I understand. I was in the same boat when I got started with my pool. Stick with it. You’ll get the hang of it in no time. The noise could have been the pump until it got good flow again. The water probably came out where the gauge mounts because the water level of your pool is higher than where the gauge mounts. In my case the water level is lower so mine pulled air in instead. I’m guessing you have a replaceable filter instead of a sand filter. If that is the case I would recommend looking up a video on how to replace or maintain that style of filter. Not that you need to replace the filter but because there might be good information about valve settings and priming the pump if needed.

The icon which looks like a cross section of tire casing with an exclamation point in it is for the Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). First check pressure in all tires including spare. Some, but not all, spares have TPMS sensors in the valve stem. If all tires have the correct pressure and the light still stays on after driving a few minutes, then at least one of the TPMS sensors has gone bad. The most common reason is the battery in the sensor has died. It’s best to get a tire shop to replace them since the tire has to be removed on one side so the valve stem & sensor can be swapped out. Also, new sensors either have to clone the id of the old sensor or the new sensor code needs to be added to the TPMS settings in the car’s computer. As for the check engine light, if it stays on after starting the vehicle then you need to get an ODB-II (ODB2) scan tool to read the trouble codes. It might be something simple like a cylinder misfire due to bad ignition coil, but without a code to point you in the right direction it is hard to tell what’s causing the code. Try using a scan tool to clear all DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) and see if they come back. You might get lucky if it was a one time problem that isn’t happening all the time, but the odds are there is something that needs attention.

Dude, your freakin awesome! Thank you.

@@THAT916ERR you’re*

@@Schwartzzzyeah, your rite! 👌🏽

@THAT916ERR I’m glad the video helped! Thanks!

Not sure what that particular light code means, but you can probably find a PDF copy of the manual for your specific model on the support site. If you send me your opener details, make and model number, I will look the code up for you. support.chamberlaingroup.com

That’s good news! I’m glad it worked for you too!

The valve setting doesn’t matter when replacing the gauge, but the pump must be turned off.

Safety First: Before removing the sub-panel cover, turn the power off at the main breaker that feeds the whole pool sub-panel. That’s the safest way to work on it. I doubt it is a fuse. They don’t typically smoke and on a board like that if they go it is usually because of a problem that needs to be resolved. You might pull the board out like in the video first to visually inspect the solder connections. If it is a minor problem with the pin connection, re-soldering the pin might be all you need. If the pin connection is good it could be a bad relay or capacitor. For a better view of my board images are available on my support webpage: fiveable.com/support If your problem is more than just the pin solder connection I can recommend a professional service that will repair the board and give a 3 year warranty for a fraction of what a whole new board will cost. I have used this service myself for a clock replacement and have been extremely happy with their work. See link at the bottom of the support page.

@@fiveable i am awaiting delivery of my soldering kit but when i checked the rear of the motherboard there was some dark almost burnt looking area on the board directly adjacent to the discolored pin. could this mean more extensive damage to the board or is it consistent with this issue in the video. i wish i could send an image

@@jawfurr if the connection has lost most of the solder it will definitely look discolored. It could also give off smoke from electrical arching. Since you have ordered a soldering kit, it’s worth trying to solder it. For a better connection, scrape some of the blue/green coating off the copper metal trace that pertains to that pin. This will allow you to connect the pin to the trace beyond the burned area. Make sure to only solder the trace and relay pin that go together. Again, you can see an image of the board and re-soldered connection on my support webpage: www.fiveable.com/support. The triangle connection was done by the service with link at bottom and shows the shape of the trace for relay pin that usually needs to be repaired. Are you in the USA? HaflerUSA can replace relays and other parts but I don’t think they will ship outside of the country. I’m not currently compensated by or affiliated with HaflerUSA. I share their information because I have gotten great service from them with my own board the in the past.

I got your photo. The connection that is bad on your board is the same as in the video. Your connection definitely needs to be re-soldered. Luckily the trace on the board doesn’t look like it is in bad shape. I believe in your case re-soldering should be fairly straightforward and will not require scraping the blue coating off to get a good connection again. Please let me know how it works out. Hopefully you will be up and running again soon!

Thanks @Earthstein! Glad it made you laugh! 😊

That’s great news! I’m glad it worked for you too!

I made the video because it was really hard to find the specific switch info for my wife’s Armada. Are you working on a Titan with the same type of fob start ignition switch? Thanks for letting me know! I’ll see what I can do to make the video pop up for Titans as well.

So I got a click when trying to crank last Sunday,after cycling key it crank like no problem,I haven’t had an issue cranking in until about 3:30 today(Thursday)so three days in a row it has crank just perfect,but I was getting ready to leave work around 3:30 and got the damn click but i eventually got it to crank after a few turns and of course started up fine and drove fine,your thoughts? I hope it’s the ignition switch

@jacobyrichardson199, sounds a lot like what was going on with the Armada in my video. For reference it had approximately 175k miles on it at the time. Wife would mention it had a hard time starting on first try but not every time. Then it started happening more and one morning it stopped starting even after a lot of tries. So I started trying to figure out if it could be anything other than the starter. I replaced it once because of a bad solenoid and it’s not a simple job. Anyway, a solenoid that is going bad will often work fine first thing in the morning when the engine is cool. Then it won’t start again if you turn it off to do something like run in a store and come right back out. But if you let it cool for an hour or so it starts with no problem. That’s a typical solenoid problem and sounds different than your problem. So if your battery is strong and the battery connections are good it could very likely be the ignition switch or maybe a relay. Both are much easier to replace and cheap compared to replacing the starter. Local auto parts stores charge a lot more than eBay/Amazon sellers for the same parts. It might be worth ordering an ignition switch and giving it a try. I doubt the ignition switch will throw a trouble code so you can’t go by OBD2 codes to diagnose it. You can pull the switch and break it open to see if the contacts are burned inside but at that point you need a new switch anyway. I haven’t had much luck cleaning the contacts and putting it back together. Hopefully the ignition switch part numbers in the video will help with your search.

@@fiveable thank you I just ordered a ignition switch

@jacobyrichardson199 Great! I hope the ignition switch fixes your starting problem. Please let me know either way. Thanks!

Glad you found my video helpful! Thanks for your comment & subscribe!

Do you think the connection to the trace on the circuit board was good? You can scrape more of the protective coating off the trace for the relay lead and add more solder to displace heat and conduct better. For example of what it looks like take a look at the photos I have on my website: fiveable.com/support/ * For safety, turn off the main panel circuit breaker that supplies power to your pool control panel before working on it! * If it turns out to be a bigger problem like a bad relay or capacitor, I can point to you a service that can repair these boards quickly with a guarantee. I have used them myself and have been really happy with their work.

How much is the repair service?

@ShippJordan, I contacted the owner of HaflerUSA. He said the board probably needs a new relay. The cost of the repair, with a 3 year warranty, is $160 plus shipping. He added a No Cell Power repair item to his eBay store if you are interested. Here is a link to his eBay listing for the repair service: www.ebay.com/itm/386991073676 Repair and testing turn around is usually 1 business day. Since your actual board is repaired, you won't need to reprogram settings to match your pool equipment. Removing and reinstalling the board is not any more difficult than what you have already done to resolder the connection. !!!-> Make sure you turn off the main panel breaker that feeds power to the pool sub-panel BEFORE removing the sub panel cover and working on the control board. <-!!! Tip: Take a bunch photos of the wires before disconnecting them so you know where they go. The greenish screw terminal connectors on the left side are three separate plugs that can be pulled out. You don’t have to unscrew them.

Wow, @seanzackman4928! Thank you so much!!!

Thanks! I hope it helped you fix a problem and save some $$$!

Three V70Rs, nice!!! I have never tried it on a V70R with power seats. Would love to know if it works on those too. Thanks!

Thanks! I’m glad it helped!

Awesome! Thanks for sharing your success with the repair!

Congrats! You just saved yourself some $$$! 😊

Glad you like it! Thank you! 😊

Glad you liked it. Thank you for leaving such a nice comment!

That’s good news! Thanks for the update!