I was fascinated by your website when i discovered it this evening after google searching for wylex/mem rewireable fuses as i thought i was going mad thinking there was a green one once upon a time? Anyways i live not too far from that makers adress and was very interested to see if it still exists, sadly it does not (11 station road stockto on tees has probably changed substantially since, shame)

Great Video, very well explained. Really liked the way you explained the reason why the external motor remains on for a while before going off. Excellent. Well Done JW

Nice series, thanks John. Very tidy how you've split it up into manageable chunks.

Most of your vids are great and really useful. I'm struggling to see the point of this one though.

Great demo of the surge protector working. First time seen someone do that. 👍

Always referring back to this but would this be the same if say a hob and 2 ovens were all on individual circuits but still in the same domestic kitchen?

Perhaps I'm missing something but why would we need to provide bonding between the pendant/light fitting and the shower, given that both these will have CPCs attached which lead back to the earth bar in the board, and are hence already connected? Thanks JW, one of the very best youtube electrical instructional channels, by far. I have learned a heck of a lot from your content, and been able to 'flesh out' a lot of what I've learned in the lvl 2 diploma and studying for my 18th edition exam

My RT140 has output voltage readings 85 v (at "80v" terminal) and 56v (at "50v" terminal), furthermore there is a 12v reading between the "Work Terminal" and the body of the welder. Why would this be and should I be concerned?

In China, the "standard" way to splice wires is to twist them together and cover that with PVC tape. I'd propose that all of these are better than that. Installing earth wires is nearly unheard-of, so the 3-wire products use colors for 3-phase (and not twin/earth). Wiring used green/yellow, sometimes blue/red, and things are supposed to be trending towards blue/brown for single phase.

⚡⚡⚡🔌🔌🔌!!!.

Thats why we weld using dc

These days neutral don’t go into the switch box anymore… 😭. The neutral goes to the 1st lamp.

Thanks sir

Every dam day.. fucking CHEWY ON SAMS BOOT. Horrid brats. You should know not to plug ANYTHING IN. Get all appliances SAFETY CHECK- AND TAG. Chewing gum is USE WHAT YOU'VE GOT, an emergency, hold something in place ( lick BLUE TAC) NOT a good repair tool. 4 anythings. And TRY and have @leas a FEW days where your nit using ANYTHING that just plugs in. INC, talkER walker banker stalker phones.. It didn't work... ITSEEMS. Ineed a PHONE or i might end up IN THE BIN, ALONG WIT MY SABOTAGED ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES. nice Fresh start... Maybe.. nice fresh DRY clothes... NOT 4 ME. Freakin raggetty annzz

Aldi still sell this style

This is so great

Explained better than most electricians here

We have had a fuse blow for the first time in 37 years. It is a real pain having to thread the wire through. It comes from being wound round a piece of cardboard, getting it straight enough to thread through is not easy. Nor is getting the fuse unit out in the first place. There is something wrong in the wiring, so we have now rewired it about 4 times. I would certainly recommend a circuit breaker replacement once a fuse blows.

I've realised I don't learn very well in a classroom situation.. you have explained everything far, far clearer! Thank you, absolutely saved my bacon and I think I can now pass my level 2 🙏

Didnt see the size embossed on the cable ... ?

Hi John, i have a 4 ring induction hob with a Connection Rating 4,600 W and a separate oven with a Connection Rating 2,990 W. i have rounded them up to 5kw & 3kw giving me a total of 35A once i apply diversity (no 5A for socket) i get a grand total of 17.5A, does this sound correct? i already have a 45A cooker switch with a 6mm² t/e fitted at the oven location on a 32A MCB. also your channel is great i learn so much & love the way you explain things. thank you for your time.

your voltage was too low to cause any significant current to be induced into the metal box

Thank you so much. The drawings finally did it for me. My light bulb came on and it makes perfect sense.

Cuanta esla duracion del aparato

I love this guy. Saved me thousands of pounds thank you

No idea what the different between a radial and ring main is here then? A ring main is effectively a daisy chain but that’s what you’re doing with the radial too.

Legend best in describing

John miss you bro where you at hope all is good in the real 🌎

This is the reason why it's important to switch off before unplugging. Had they have been in the habit of doing that, the short would not have happened despite the loose part in the socket.

Who's talking about that no one uses mighty meter 😂

It is called a phase tester for a reason mate - if you switch the phase around, obviously it's not going to detect on neutral. Measure neutral to ground with your multimeter and phase to ground, same issue, init? You use these in both, not just one.

Great demo !

More cars should look like that! In all seriousness the simplified drawings are so helpful for understanding from the ground up.

More cars should look like that! In all seriousness the simplified drawings are so helpful for understanding from the ground up.

What kind of results should we expect? Sorry if that is a broad question

Nice to see you've got the same scope as me.

I think my rts has died. My meter is no longer switching in to night / low mode. Just stays in high. So annoying as I hoping to make it last me till when they kill the signal. I don’t want a digital meter, I like dials, lol

Remember the olive only works in one direction. It's connical. If you can't get the nut to the thread - thats why. Only thing to add to this.

We have on of these and it has been working fine for most of 40 years. A fuse has blown for the first ever time. Thanks for the video but it blew again almost immediately.

Great. Thank you.

Thank you, I've been without power for 5 days now with 2 kids because everyone I called was refusing responsibility, now I know it's my building manager, I'll be getting them told again. Thank you.

Thanks for the info , i have got myself one solder melting pot when i start to use it i will do an initial power up test & also an "Opening up" to see if all looks ok inside . TIP about the solder bar : I found that scarring ( making a week point )the solder bar with a beefy cutter and then using a vise to wiggle forth and back the bar . the bar broke into smaller manageable pieces with zero loss of material and no mess to pick up as a saw would have , Cheers . Excuse mon english still working on it !

Thank you God bless your heart in the name of Jesus.

Any update on earthing safety caused by open PEN with TN-C-S at home. I ask as there are many more EVs now with outside charge points. Have the safety issues been resolved without resorting to a huge earth mat?

Excellent educator

What an informative video, great stuff

Nice tests.

👍👍👍Definitely the best explanation of this that I've ever seen! I was thinking about how to set up a demonstration of Diverted Neutral Current in a 3 phase system where only a single phase supply is available to run the demonstration - I think I've worked out a way to get an isolated low voltage 3 phase supply from a single phase input with a reasonable power capacity at reasonable cost - let me know if you're interested. Would be great to demonstrate with safe low voltages some of the weird, wonderful and lethal things that can happen with Diverted Neutral Current in a 3 phase system.

Thanks! great presentation!

As you compared the two types, it would be interesting to know if the 3 wire version can be used in a specific configuration to replace the 4 wire version. 4 of the one you stripped down are fitted on the back of my house and the last recently failed. They connect to a Racal Guardall RLC1 Light Control Unit indoors to select for sensor/night-time/permanent-on with a sliding adjustor. The permanent-on setting still switches them on, but the sensors no longer trigger the lights. I imagine the missing yellow (faded to white) wire may possibly be the darkness output and wondered if it was removed from newer PIRs because it is instead controlled on the sensor itself with a dial? Also does the new one operate with the same voltage?