Deze foutcode lijkt inderdaad dezelfde, poort deactivatie sensor, voltage laag. Doe er je voordeel mee met mijn methode en houdt dat wagentje aan het lopen.

Last week I did another one. Tried and true. Very cheap fix!

there is a bracket so that the rod stops earlier than usual. Read the caption its all in there.

Hi. This video is only for when changing the sensor doesn't solve the problem. The plastic stuff will get loose after years and you will keep getting the P1113. Look at 00:15 . On the left side is a big torx bolt (the intake manifold bolt). Remove this. Then put a piece of metal with a hole in it and put the big torx bolt back in, and retighten. Make sure to move the piece of metal with the hole in it, in such a way that it restricts the movement of the black plastic part with the crosses on it (the operating rod). If you don't have a scan tool that can read how much volts the sensor is reading, you will have use a multimeter to read the voltage, or to just try and see if it works. A few millimeters to half a centimeter should do the trick. Then erase the code with a cheap scantool and drive the car and see if the fault stays away. Good luck!

Very happy to hear that my explanation helped! They are a great puzzle, a great talking piece and a nice ring to wear!

I am happy for you! Thanks for replying.

Hi. You see that torx bolt with the wire attached? That is originally there as part of the intake manifold. All you have to do is take the bolt out, and back in again with a metal plate such that the sensor reads a little above 0.5volts when it touches. Don't forget the ground wire if it was there. It is easiest reached from under and behind the engine.

@mcpooch thank you very much for the help mate, it solved the problem! You saved me a lot of money and time 😀 wish you all the best, cheers!

@@mcpooch

А Вы!

Well done Sir! It is a cheap fix, and often for an older car, that is "good enough"!

No, I have some free days so I cannot look up the OEM part number through official channels right now, until next tuesday. But I can tell you it's almost NEVER the sensor itself that is at fault. It's usually wear and tear in the port deactivation system. I have done a lot of these. Have you done some voltage measurements on the signal wire while you manipulate the plastic rod that moves the port flaps in the intake manifold? They should not come below 0.5V or above 4.5V as you move it from one end to the other. Also the 5V sensor supply should be there, and the ground. If you put a little bracket beneath that intake manifold bolt such that the sensor signal is a bit above 0.5V you're usually fine.

As you can see in the video I mounted a little bracket, so that the pushrod will not move so far the sensor reading goes out of range.

​@@mcpoochcan i do it without Software?

The 90 degree angled bracket at the left side is not originally there. I took out the external torx bolt and put in the bracket. So now the mechanism gets stopped in its movement, so that the sensor reads 0.7 Volts when it is in that position. This will prevent the code being set. Also view kzfaq.infoJXssqbNj43o and kzfaq.infonUCiSsQafoI to see how it changes the output of the sensor. It is a cheap fix. Rather than have to replace the entire intake manifold. Good luck fixing!

I hope you got it fixed. I'd love to hear back from you. Putting in a little piece of metal beneath that bolt and have the operating rod stop at that can save you hundreds of dollars or euros.

Hello, i have this fault, is there any way of fixing it without getting car on a ramp? Im not exactly mechanically minded but this code is driving me nuts and mechanic saying i need a whole new inlet manifold, now iv moved the plastic bar along manually i start car eml gone, but turn off car and on again its back again any help would be greatly appreciated

@@mcpoochand you left flaps in open or closed position?

@@mcpoochbc my flapps are broken and it makes annoying sound with on engine

Did my fix wok for you? I hope so. It's a really quick fix that costs next to nothing. I had not thought of putting a resistor. But if in that case it makes the RESTED position signal above 0.5 Volts, then that will work too. I do not know how it will effect the signal on the higher ENGAGED position (which should be below 4.5 Volts). Could be when it's above you will get the opposite code that says "Port deactivation sensor signal HIGH".

@@mcpooch hi mate I got little bit different problem, i took out whole manifold bc of rattling noises if engine is on, so after removal, i find that i have 2 flaps of four freely moving, like when i pull actuator bar, they wont move at all, so can u help what should i do ? I thinking about blind and remove them, but dont know how car will run without changing options on ecu

@@wanis1686 ok so 2 flaps have broken free of the linkage. It is a crappy designed system to begin with, let me start with that. Other than the ratteling, did it have any effect on smooth running of the engine, or low end/high end power? Got any fault codes on improper airflow (from the MAF sensor?) The port deactivition system is designed in principle to make exhaust emissions less in combination with EGR while maintaining power and increasing gas mileage. You could try removing all the flaps from the linkage, even take them out of the intake, and remount the intake with both ports per cylinder open and see how the car runs on that. As an experiment, because that intake manifold is screwed up anyways, there's no repairing that. I can guarantee gas mileage will be worse by at least 5%. But I cannot guarantee it will run smooth or doesn't throw fault codes on improper mass air flow. And still I think you got here by searching for the P1113 code so even if flaps are removed, you'd still have to do a fix so it doesn't show that anymore. This is a bit of uncharted territory for me. The official way would be a completely new intake manifold $$$. You can try getting a good second hand, but good luck with that as they all get it at one point or another on these older vehicles. About making changes to the ECU, that depends on how it runs after this proposed experiment. If it runs fine, then yeah sure. Some tuners will write away codes in the software for a 100 bucks or less. Good luck on your journey @wanis1686! Hope to hear a story of how it turned out!

@@mcpooch bro this is so good idea, i also thought about removing flaps, but in final, i repaired them (in some easy- home way, but they work) and i put everything back, its running ok, i dont hear any rattling, clicking noises or i dont dont have any codes (only about Ecn 130000 and something with lambda, i have empty catalyc) now i have different problem, car sometimes run on 3 cyl, So i tried to change plugs, nothing happened.. tommorrow i will change sparking bar and ill see, also im not sure but i think that car maybe overheating, coolant hoses seems to be little harder, but i dont have any different symptoms of bad head gasket or cracks in head Anyway This whole system is real pain in the ass, i also read that this engines have also a lot of problem with oil consumption (like mine), main driving unit (ecu) and electronics… So im battling demons now but i believe it will solve.. Anyway thank you so much for your effort, i wish you best!:)

Translated: "It can be knocked out and blinded together with egr". Yes this is also an option. To change the ECU software to not set faults when these sensor signals fall below or above what is expected. However you need to find someone who can do this and they will charge money for it. The fix I provided with the bracket is free.

Can i drive it without change protocols in ecu ? Bc i know that guy live in different town

Thank you for the compliment.