Mamod or Forrest classic models have those they're called a coal scuttle.

Sounds like a project! Is the canopy flat or does it have the corrugations (like mine in the video)? The Te1 was introduced Jan 1963 with nut and bolt construction (except for the solid rivets holding the engine bracket to the firebox). Sometime in 64 they introduced the corrugated roof, then late 64/early 65 I think is when they went to pop rivet construction. I've got a corrugated roof, nut and bolt construction one myself. It's in pretty nice original condition, so a bit of a shelf queen. I've never removed the solid rivets before, so I can't really help. A gentle centre punch and careful drilling would be my thoughts, or patient dremeling if you have one. Good luck!

Yes that’s the nut and bolt mamod, not very common and even better with a flat canopy. A KZfaq channel called muddy lake engineering has loads of mamods and wilescos. Even a flat canopy nut and bolt in his collection!

I was going to experiment with soldering it back on but I don't expect that to really work. I imagine JB weld or similar will be the solution. Whatever I end up doing I will show my findings. Cheers

Ok, thanks for letting me know

Glad to help, it's a great hobby, I must get on with it! Cheers

I didn't know Vinegar ate the zinc, that's definitely something to keep in mind!

@@Daniels_Projects it's a big problem in brass musical instruments like saxophones. The moisture getting in there turns the instrument into a battery, the zinc dissolves out and the bare copper oxidises to red copper oxide. Net result is corrosion, generally known as red rot. It's a slow reaction, but doesn't even need vinegar. Vinegar will accelerate it. Pure water is a poor conductor. Most of the electric current passed by water is actually due to impurities in it. Easy to show - use a meter to measure the resistance of distilled/deionised water. Then add salt or vinegar and repeat. Now add two dissimilar metals and you have a battery,

@@kevgermany Far out, I know on larger steam engines (2 1/2"+ gauge, 60+psi kind of thing) if you use brass steam fittings they get eaten away over time, or very quickly if they leak steam (oxygen and steam must be a bad mix). As you say, the zinc gets eaten away, I've seen photos of brass steam fittings looking like aero chocolate! Mamods and the like are considered safe to use brass for the boilers/fittings as they are under 30?psi or 125°C (don't quote me on the EXACT numbers). The problem must still be there, but much less under these limits. Do you do anything to prevent corrosion in instruments?

@@Daniels_Projects instruments - best thing is to dry them after playing, but many players just chuck them in the case. Takes time for the problems to set in. And there are always good reasons to just put in the case - rush to get home/go to the bar....

Cool! How'd it go?

Thanks, glad it will help, I've wanted to make a video series like this for a while now, awesome to see it's already helping others!

@@Daniels_Projects I started to restore mine today but my safety valve is just spinning and won't come out, not sure how to get it out, do you have any thoughts?

@@danwebster14 Bugger, I've never had a safety valve seize on me. Is it spinning freely or is it quite tight? I got lucky with a whistle once, it turned but very tightly. I applied a bit of heat with a butane torch and it was just enough to expand the bush loose off the whistle and re-attach the solder a bit. You could try filling the boiler with white vinegar (to remove as much lime scale as possible) to give you the best chance of removing the safety valve without the bush. Depending how stuck it is, if you can cut away the seal and clean the metal surface (floss it with a piece of scotch brite or something) you might be able to apply a bit more solder to hold the bush in place, but if the safety valve is stuck well then you'll only break the solder again. Worst case scenario heat the whole safety valve up to loosen the solder and pull it out with pliers, taking the bush with it. Pull on it and twist it as you heat it. You will need to solder in a new bush after this of course. Good luck, I hope it goes well! let me know how you get on