@adairjanney7109 if it is not going in well put some grease on the seal on the inside and on the outside of the seal. The use a socket that is big enough and deep enough to go over the crank make sure the socket is the just smaller then the outer lip of the seal. Then lightly tap the socket with a hammer to put the seal in place. The grease will help the seal go in and it will also keep the seal from tearing.

@@allenpreece2100 Yeah ive been trying something similar to that though not so lightly, but not too hard, it just goes on a bit and gets stuck and then I have to pull it back off.... ive cleaned out the old seal which seemed like dry rot it was a pain the ass to clean out, i dont see any remainder in there but maybe I need to clean it more

@adairjanney7109 is there a sleeve in there. The sleeve is an aftermarket repair that some shops put in to make sure the seal stays in place. But it is not required. But the sleeves are made out of very thin tin like metal and the get damaged easily and if that is the case then your new seal won't go in tell you pull the sleeve out.

@@allenpreece2100 I mean I dont see anything that I would think is this sleeve, the gasket came with a new spring in it and the old spring came out when I ripped the gasket out but I mean to ge tthis gasket out took forever, I had to scrap it out and it was not easy, so thats why I thought maybe I need to clean it more, but do you think if by eye and a flashlight I dont see anything it should be good or should I find another way to clean it even more maybe light grinder type thing

@adairjanney7109 I would not grind on it at all. If you damage the housing you can cause a permanent leak. Can you feel wear the seal should go? Does it feel clean and smooth? Are you sure you got the right size seal? Just making sure it is not to big. You should be able to start the seal just by pushing it in slightly with your hands and they tip it in tell it is flush with the housing all the way around.

It's tricky. I ended up having to use a pick that had a bend to the end.

This one didn't have a drain plug. 😕

Hello

hi, How Are You?@@allenpreece2100

Hi, How r you?

Can I talk with You? Please give me your contact link?

Honestly I forgot it 🤣🤣🤣

No it didn't explode in his face! 😅🤣

🤣😆

That's the front of the engine!!!

@@BOSSHOGG69 ah ok, brain fart.. I believe mine is leaking out of the back there somewhere so that’s all I can think

No, it is a kia 😒 🙄

It sure sounds that way 😆 🤣

No problem

The break in oil does not have any detergents in it. It also has a very high zinc to help the rings and parts seat in.

What brand o2 sensors are you installing? Also have you tried ohming the o2 sensor to make sure it is not bad internally?

@@allenpreece2100 yes both new and old sensor ohm was good 5-6ohms and both created voltage when heated up. the brand is ebay, i know its not scream quality but the upstream is also ebay brand and it works as it should

K. Have you tried testing the o2 sensor wiring on the truck side for a brake or a Melted wire.?

@@allenpreece2100 i did first i use a volt meter and i got 13v for the elements side and 4v from the signal wire on the truck side of connector . and today i used my power probe and i got ground on 3 wires with key on and 13v with engine running. the only wire i did not get a reading from either off or running was orange w/black it was neither hot or ground that same wire on the sensor side is black wire

Okay. So both codes lead to your o2 sensor one is for the circuit voltage to high 0138. And the other is for the o2 temp reading. I know you know this but we need to figure out why you are getting 13v to that one wire. That seems high. As for the temp code. Do you have a heat gun? If so take the o2 sensor out and heat up the tip of the sensor with the heat gun and as it is heating up check the ohms reading with your meter and see if that changes at all. I will look in my manual to see what circuit that harness comes off of to see if we can pin point the high voltage issue.