Good for you by John Deere has been a piece of s*** from the word go

Improper way to change the oul. There are two fluid chambers in the axle. Removing the axle assembly and draining the oil out of the fill plug.

Thanks for the informative video. All my previous '67s were later cars that had the divorced box with a rag joint, so I never had to do this before. Glad I watched this since I hadn't thought about replacing the rubber seals and plastic bushings for the steering column. I ordered those before doing this job and was able to replace everything when I swapped in my new box. Since my car is a straight 6, I had a little more room to get the box/shaft out than you did! Since my transmission is manual I also had to remove the Z bar assembly for clearance, but with non-power brakes, I didn't have to remove my master cylinder. So, YMMV depending on your car and options, but this is a pretty straightforward job.

Do you have to remove the column if you're just swapping out the steering gear box?

Help request: It would be helpful to see exactly how you filled the oil back up and purged the air. Can you or someone provide help there? Thank you.

Very informative video. Thanks for putting this together.

Is it necessary to get the remaining fluid out with a pump? Seeing a lot of feedback from saying they never even change out the fluid for years and seen no issue

Can you please clearly repeat who was company that you purchased steering box with shaft and pitman arm, I heard Chaco's Stang? Or Tacos Stang?

Great video! Good info

Robert, with regard to removing the vent plug - how is this done? Use a screwdriver from underneath and pry it up and off? Folks say be careful not to damage or break the plug, so how do you remove it please?

The stew pid mans way of partially changing some of the oil without clean the most important parts like the filter and the magnets. You wasted your time. If you can't do it right, then don't do it at all. duh. 🙄

Thank you sir! God bless

Great video man, thanks for the info. Everybody else said remove the engine. Got mine out in about 2 hours.

I am doing this swap this weekend. Noticed that you did not have to remove the header, I hope I can do that as well. I’m not looking forward to removing my Wilwood master but if I have I guess I will.

I have the exact same mower including the year. It’s starting to have trouble climbing a hill after the transmission is warmed up, in other words when I’m almost finished mowing is when I mow that hill. Would you mind telling me if those were the problems you were having? And did it fix it? Thanks very much

I have used a pump off a standard spray bottle. Slide 1/4 " hose om the pump handle straw , this works great when fluid is warm, and great for over filled transmissions.

Hey Robert great short cut to save time from doing complete drop of transaxle....do you refill using the same breather hole I would guess YES thanks

How easy is it to remove and replace the rubber burp valve? I'm afraid to take it off and not be able to put it back. I've never messed with one of these it just seems pretty tight so I wanted to check before I try. My 320 is basically stopping up hills now once it warms up.

My 320 keeps sputtering and runs like crap when I engage the mower deck

For all you naysayers, everytime you get your tranny fluid changed in your vehicle they never get anywhere near all of the fluid. A little here, a little there on a regular basis is perfect just like on your car. Awesome video

great video very helpful keep up the good work

Robert, thanks very much for a couple of very helpful videos. Can you let us know how this carb is holding up and also how your transaxle is doing with the fluid change after this time. Also, does the carb change affect the pitch of the engine at all in a noticeable way? I'd like a bit more power but not at the expense of a louder exhaust note.

Probably holds 2 quarts, so you got half of it. Not terrible for a halfway job.

wish I had done this.Mine locked up at 950 hours.

this is interesting you should do a follow up video it would be good to know how it held up. maybe even a tutorial on installation. I'd like to try it

Nice video Robert on the X320. I noticed that you have installed a seat cover on yours to no doubt cover up and continue to protect the cracked bottom that is notorious with the John Deere seats. Would you be able to supply me with a possible manufacture name and actual part number for it as I have been trying to locate one for my x320 and have had no luck. Thank You in advance for any help you may be able to provide

Good video….Any help on what carb I can use for a GT225 for more power?

There is no place on that carb for the linkages. My original carb does not have that plate or breather tube either. I have the same mower and engine but that carb will not work without linkage hook ups.

I can't seem to find the part on Ebay... any other place you are aware they sell them?

I used a hand pump from a Shout pre wash for laundry. The hand pump has a long tube that's just the right size to get inside the case. I used Quart Mason jars to measure how much I took out. I was able to remove about 1.75 quarts out of it. I then refilled with the exact amount of 20w50 full synthetic motor oil but I added .8oz of Lucas oil stabilizer. I've got over 300 hours on a X300 and over 200 hours on a X350 and the both run as good as new.

Ordering one tomorrow, thanks for the vid!

Thanks for the info. Any info on fluid height in the 320 Trans axle when measured to the top of vent hole?

Robert: Where is Part 2? I am interested in the performance improvement. What height should tranny fluid be? My X320 is slipping badly, running hot and is 1-3/4" down from top of Vent casting.

The fluid in my 2011 X320 looks like new. It measures down 1-3/4" from top of vent tube. Does anyone know how high it should be? Unit moans and squeals, runs slow and will barely climb hills.

Do you have to drain in order to add new only put 3 hours on it last years

Any updates on how it's been doing with the new carb? No problems....? im about to do it to mine when I find a cheap one.

Thanks Robert, nice how to video. I have never changed mine.

One con to this method is you don't get to clean the cruddy magnet underneath the actual fill hole.

Thank you my x300 is getting really whiny. Drain, measure, refill it's the same way I do a poor man's job on my Volkswagen DSG, you don't have to use vcds you could just drain measure and refill through the filter in modern vw dsg's

Put the tube in the hose of your shop vac, tape it up so that the hose is completely taped to the tube with no leakage. Stick the tube in the hole, turn the shop vac on and watch the magic.

That's not a bad idea. but I'm gonna be taking off the old gas tank from my L110 once it's off out of my way I'm gonna have plenty of hand room Im gonna use a shopvac to suck mine out and rotate the gears a little to make sure i get it all out

I was able to pump 1 quart from my x300 using an electric suction pump after removing the breather and magnetic cap. Measure the oil level before starting as a back up by creating a “dip stick” as suggested. supposedly there are 2 quarts of oil in the trans axel case. Mine looked well used after 375 hours, and was running fine. As a bearing Engineer and a lot of gray hair in the industrial power transmission industry With gears, bearing and everything related,, adding Some fresh oil is a wise move to help lengthen service life. Next week I will repeat this procedure and get more of the oil up to a better freshness. Sad they “ seal this for life” and do not let the customer have an option. I would gladly take on John Deere engineers over this one. Thanks for the video, was very helpful. I also realized the front to help derail more oil.

Wow! Robert, you saved my bacon! This is probably best KZfaq video I ever ran across! I have a 5 yr old X300 with 230 hours. Transmission had started slipping on hills and growling like crazy under the load. I’ve had 2 spinal surgeries and wasn’t looking forward to going the remove the transaxle route. As you say, that’s the deluxe way with changing all the fluid and cleaning the magnet. This method allowed me to pull of just over a quart of the original fluid which was very dark. I put a quart of 5W50 synthetic in to replace the fluid. It drove like new! After driving it around and climbing some hills I pulled off another quart. Much lighter as you would expect. I added another quart of the 5W50 today. Runs like new now! It doesn’t even know it’s on a hill! No growling, straining or anything. You saved me a bundle of cash and my back! Hope I can repay the favor some day!

Awesome idea! Hey, you’ve extended the life of your transmission in an easy way.

I have an older X320 w/ FH661V 22hp, will the 150040867 Nikki or its replacement fit ?

The fluid on my x340 leaking grey on the side... how bad is it

This isn't a "poor mans" fluid change, you aren't saving any money over pulling the trans and changing the right way. It's so easy to pull this trans, I've done it twice. You can have it off and back on in 2 hours. Your trans on this mower will take about 2.2 qts. You can do it, you look capable.