Yes, I modified the X gantry so it works perfectly with the Stealthburner. I also have a mod for the old Afterburner which is no longer supported by Voron. www.printables.com/model/560268-voron-stealthburner-xy-axis-joints-for-zerog-mercu

Make sure you use the latest files from them 1.1.6 for the A/B Motors. Everything else is the same

Skip the MSN9H. GO for Stealthburner. I have uploaded to Printables.com the mods for Mercury 1.1.5 (the latest) that work perfect with Stealthburner. Download from ZeroG the latest from Github and then my files if you want Stealthburner. I am running Beacon + tri-axis Hydra bed now.

That's driven by the slicer. Using BBL or Orca, the default profiles are much faster and the quality is very good. Voron good. If you already have Exoslide, there's no need for this. When you want a real upgrade - get a BambuLab X1C.

Go ahead be stupid. Your money.

​@@almonster2066 i have a cube already and it's wonderful, just a bit small. use orca slicer calibration.

It's so old. - Basically shitty design, shitty hardware and charged max price for junk. Yes, angry at it - will never recommend shit kit go.

Yes, test print. This machine has been torn down and updated again with v 1.1.5 files and Hydra bed. Use Orca Slicer - it's simply the best out there.

The Stealthburner comes with a new mount. If you use Merc1 x-axis, just use the files in Thingiverse. Search for Merc1 and I have them all posted up there. You need a small shim for the belt because of the offset. Stealthburner can use 2 MGN9 or 1 MGN12. Stealthburner mount is needed only if you use Clockwork 2. If you stay with Clockwork 1, you can use the old mount (per their instructions).

I will post the file up tomorrow.

This guy (under various names all including 'al') has been trolling Seckit for a while and seems pretty obviously paid by a competitor or something. I'm super happy with my SK-Tank.

WTF are you talking about? SKG2 was shit to begin with. Just get a Bambu Lab and throw that thing in the garbage. X1C is the way to go. I have since decommissioned this piece of shit and will take it to the gun range and blow it up.

@@almonster2066 You're comparing a product made in 2022 with one made in 2020. There's plenty of reviewers out there who give honest reviews and they have also seen good results. I'm not saying it's the best printer in the world as I haven't had every other printer, but I don't think your experience is the normal, certainly mine performs well.

@@frasersimpson8264 Even in 2020, I had better printers than this piece of shit. Why are you wasting your time and mine about this piece of ancient shit?

@@almonster2066 your hostile attitude only makes me more supportive of SecKit lol. Comparing a 2022 plug and play X1C (engineered by multiple engineers from DJI) with a 2020 DIY printer from a one-man engineer is a joke. Your issues with these kits is obviously user error. You’re not meant for DIY, which is fine, but don’t compare the two experiences because they’re not attempting to achieve the same experience.

and width?

@@danielhastings1705 10X20mm 1Meter. Make sure you get an openable one. It is less than 1M long. I think it's close to only 550mm?

@@almonster2066 cheers, I found the correct one from this

@@almonster2066 i got mine in the post now, works great cheers dude

This was promoted as a great machine. What you get is junky parts with poor performance. Pieces of rough cut metal that isn't even cut properly. You have metal pieces that aren't even square. What are you one of the 2 fanboys of Shit Kit go? Do you even have one of thise pieces of shit?

@@almonster2066 You haven't actually provided any proof of anything. Your video is just a rant...

@@veegee24 You must be a noobe at best. I completely took apart this piece of shit that couldn't print consistently due to a shitty z-axis design. The idiot who designed it wanted $200 to fix his mistake. Fuck him. Buy an X1 Carbon from Bambu Lab and you don't have to deal with stupid shitty designs that print about as fast as a 5 yr old Prusa Mk3 but with all sorts of artifacts. Yes, it is a rant because I don't want people wasting their hard earned money buying into SHIT.

Very straight forward. The Shit-Kit Go frame is low quality Chinese 4020 and had to use a single M6 instead of M5 for EU/American 4020/2020.

The base Ender 5+ is about $500 USD. The linear rails, bearings, etc.. maybe another $200. It it cheaper to buy a Formbot Voron kit.

These are here - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4873160

@@almonster2066 thanks man! I bought my mercury one kit from fabreeko a cpl months ago. I abs printed all the parts for the evo tool head + zero g parts , bought sherpa mini + e3 v6 volcano, octopus board and I have a new (refurbished) ender 5 pro still in the box sitting in my basement. My problem is that I have been dragging my feet at building it since I'm nervous to learn klipper and there doesn't scheme to be any building instructions for zero g or where to start then I get lost in the discord. Is there a good walk threw for klipper? Any building instructions out there? Also can I run the zero g on a marlin firmware build (I know marlin well) until I learn klipper? I'm lost thanks for all your man for any answers :)

@@denvermatt Building isn't that hard. it's like Legos. Start by taking the Ender 5 gantry apart. The Github for Mercury 1 has images that will guide you through the build. You can download the Onsite CAD file and look at it to see how it goes together. Unfortunately, no one has put a guide together yet. You can run Marlin and configure as CoreXY. The Blue machine was running Marlin fine. Now with Klipper, I can never go back to Marlin. Marlin just seems so primitive now. Get it up and running on Marlin and then work your way to Klipper. Discord for Mercury1 is very helpful. This URL has the drawings for assembly - github.com/ZeroGDesign/Mercury/tree/main/Drawings

@@almonster2066 thanks man. I just found the new docs on the website so awesome and needed.

Here you go - www.printables.com/model/230884-mercury-1-mod-files-for-voron-afterburner-and-cabl

You can have an opinion without phrasing it like a jerk lol, all you had to say was you didn't like the twist up without bragging about yourself. 😂

@@hnicholeFr tho you didn’t have to brave about your team-

Brag*

It depends on what you want to use as a hot end. If you use Voron Afterburner, it previously required 2 MGN9H rails. If you use EVA or the new Stealthburner, you will use 1 MGN12H rail. So you will need 2 for Y and 1 or 2 for X depending upon which hot end you choose to go with. They would all be 450 in length for the 5 Plus.

The BOM parts are listed in the drawings. As for the changes for the 5+ - the only thing you need is 1 500mm 2020 extrusion (you can cut your x-axis to fit). From there, there are no differences between the 5 and 5+ for this mod.

@@almonster2066 awesome, thanks so much for the info! Parts printing has begun for my own conversion!

@@bartacus3521 One note, on the Afterburner using 2 MGN9H rails - you will need to shave the probe. I made a mod on Thingiverse to avoid shaving the Omron probe. If you use Stealth Burner with MGN12H, you can use the default Stealth Burner mount but with a 2.8mm shim behind it so the belts are parallel to the X-axis. If you don't there will be a slight offset which you may or may not care about.

Here's a link to my mods - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5002991

@@almonster2066 Thanks so much for that! Right now the plan isn't firm. I'm currently running 5 x 450mm LDO MGN12 rails, but with the "stock" cartesian motion. But I used the EVA system from Rat Rig for the hot end, so my X rail is on top. That's all going to have to change, but it's great to know I need a 2.8mm spacer. I'd like to maintain my BLtouch, and I found a modified Stealth Burner shroud for that, but I'm not sure how that's all going to fit together. I'll figure that out when the time comes.

I used Formfutura Titan X ABS which lets you print ABS with no enclosure with little to no warping. Works great. However, I would also suggest eSun ABS+, it seems to print just as good and much cheaper. I am doing my Voron Stealthburner in eSun ABS+.

They are in my Thingiverse link in the video description.

I might end up doing that Trident mod on another printer. I bought this printer - Seckit Go2 - and IT SUCKS. It's going to get torn down and get this same mod - on that one I'll add the Trident bed. I have an AC heater for it already so - it just needs time.

It's An existing mod from mercury called the hydra

CoreXY motion is very exact so you have no slop as in the factory motion system. CoreXy also allows you to print very fast 200 to 300 mm/s outer walls and acceleration at 10K to 12K. The ouput quality is so much better than the old 5 Plus.

At the time, they were juniors.

No same build volume 350x350x400. I'm updating to the new Stealth Burner with a 5015 fan. One thing is true, the old After Burner did suffer some cooling issues when printing fast - 150mm/s +.

@@almonster2066 thx for the answer, i hve seen one build from regular ender 5 where the build plate have gone up from 230x230 to 310x310. i would love to have en build volume off 400x400x250, i don't need much height. Currently looking in to the documentation for this build, figuring out, do i start with a ender 5 and replace most of the parts, or scratch build one.

@@johndemeyer4613 Join the discord channel from this page - github.com/ZeroGDesign/Mercury

It was an Ender 5+.

It was. It's now CoreXY.

I've now just finished my second Ender 5+ migration to ZeroG / Mercury1. Just ran the accelerometer for input shaping. I also have parts to a 2.4 Voron sitting in boxes. So the addiction is an addiction. Chasing FDM perfection....

@@almonster2066 The only problem I've got is my Z axis screws are bent so it screeches whenever it moves Z down - they sent me new one from China, that was just as bent. I don't want to spend lots of time and money on a "base" printer that is faulty :-/

@@MrButuz Get Delrin trapesoid nuts that work with Prusa MK3s. They have the same stats. That will solve your noise problem. I switched mine over and they work great.

@@MrButuz screeches is low on lube, i bought and sold 3 ender 5 plus all of them made it going down, got some lube going, all of them stopped, a little bend in the lead screw is normal (a little)