I don’t have a video specifically for that. What you’ll need are some of the pulse bar connectors. The pulse bar under the dash usually has dust covers on them. Remove a dust cover, plug in a pulse bar connector and then connect your wires to the wires on the connecter. There are three wires coming out of the connecter. Mine had black, red and yellow. Black is ground, red is 24hr + power, yellow is ignition power if I remember correctly. But you can verify that with a test light. From there, run your wires to the switch and then to whatever you are trying to power. Hope that helps. If not let me know and I’ll see if I can put together a video on this.

Not a bad idea to through bolt the connection. I just didn’t like the idea of how big the nut was either on the top or underneath the connection because I was worried the trim piece would bulge out too much. My unit has 145k miles and since only a few of the screws had backed off I went with just adding more larger screws. Should get me through another 20k miles or more. Hope your repair goes smoothly and have a great weekend.

Thank you for the comment. I’ll make it a point to show more of the wiring the next time I do an install like this. I appreciate the feedback.

I did not place anything over the sound deadening material. Since the rear felt panels will conceal the silver I didn’t feel it was necessary to cover it first. If you are concerned about the silver color showing, the same company does make a sound deadening material with a black top.

Nice. That’s what I was wondering

I’m not sure what you mean by Sonal. I placed the blade of both the low and high beam bulbs in the vertical position. This puts the LED chips at 3 and 9 o’clock positions which is the correct location to get the best beam pattern. That’s my understanding anyway.

That’s the info I was looking for. Thanks

Had to put the project on hold. Never got around to tapping the intake for the catch can.

The only portions of the dash that I removed are the panel where the ignition is and the lower cargo area where I installed the voltage meter/usb outlet. I have not had a need to remove the entire dash. For the portions I did remove, the ignition panel comes off by pulling down and out on the top of the panel. Then it should come out and away from the mounting tabs on the bottom. For the lower cargo area, it is removed by removing a few torx bolts and the plastic rivets. Hope that helps.

Depending on the turn signal kit you have, most have the option to light up the arrows using a set of jumper wires that plug into the back of the instrument cluster. Kits from Corbin Custom Works and Ryco have such capabilities. First thing is to make sure your instrument cluster has the arrows. Some models do not.

Yes I have 2023 xp pro.

Here a link to the plugs I use: Lesiyou 6 Pieces Pulse Power Plug Compatible with 2018-2021 Polaris Ranger XP 1000 RZR RS1 Pro General, Bus Bar Power Harness Pigtail Connector 14 Gauge a.co/d/fIv8RRR

@user-kk2xh6di3p thanks for the question. I use an 80 mil sound deadening material. It’s easy to work with and I think it is great in reducing the interior cab noise. I have used a 50 mil product from the same company in another application and it too offered great noise reduction. I think either one is an improvement over stock, I just prefer the 80 mil in this application because I know what the results will be. I haven’t ever done a decibel test so I can’t say how much of an improvement it is on a scale but all my customer have said that it’s a noticeable difference. Hope that helps. Here’s a link to the product: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BLSP8JV/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you for the question. Open the rear passenger door and look down to about seat level. There is a plastic panel on the outside of the machine. Just in front of the fuel cap. Remove a couple of screws and body pins to remove this panel. With panel removed you should be able to see the bottom of that corner roll cage pilar. On the bottom should be a hole just like on the top. After running the wire down the pilar I routed the wire to the engine side of the firewall to the driveline tunnel access (near the oil filter) which is to the right of the battery as you are facing the battery. Then you can make the connect to the battery. This is where I also installed the inline fuse. Hope that helps.

Thank you for the comment. I’m in North Idaho. If you are willing to bring the machine to me, I am certainly willing to work on it for you. I am currently booked out until the end of November or so. Let me know if that work for you.

Yes I would be willing to bring it to you, Courtney d’ Alene area? The most important thing is all the sound deadening,, and I’m making a list as we speak. I’m sure once I get it and run it I’ll have some other things. I’m also open to some upgrades you highly recommend. Thanks Ron@@kpoutdoorcustomz137

@@user-ck1lt1wl2k yes, Coeur d’Alene area. I’ll put you on my schedule for the end of November. When you get your list together, email it to me. When your spot on the schedule comes up I’ll reach back out to you and we can then coordinate you dropping off the machine.

Sorry it’s a 2023 defender max xmr

@@cmarinew oh man that sucks. Sorry to hear that. I would try lowering the bottom section of the dash from the upper section to gain access to the wires. From the parts diagram of your machine, looks like the lower portion is secured with about 6 torx screws and maybe a few of those plastic body pins. I haven't had to pull the dash apart so that's my best guess on how to approach it. I will have another Defender in the shop in a couple weeks so I could certainly look at it then but I'm sure you'll have your figured out by then. But let me know if you don't.

@@kpoutdoorcustomz137 thank you sir! Yea I’ve pulled the section out that holds all the switches and can access all of those wires but the harness I’m trying to reach is way back there! Like right underneath where the windshield meets at the bottom. I’ll do some more digging and let you know!

Thank you for the question. Here is a link to the Beamtech H11 headlights I installed. BEAMTECH H11 LED Bulb, 12000LM 60W Fanless in Line H8 H9 6500K Xenon White a.co/d/bW9WCLg

🤝🤝💯

@grantparnes I will update the description with some links to accessories that I used on the build. For the wiper delay I used a delay relay. There is some re-wiring that needs to be done and a diode should be installed to prevent back feeding of the power side coming out of the switch. I am currently working with Sam's Backup Lights to create a simple plug and play wiper delay module. We are currently in the prototype phase and have a couple machines with them installed for testing. Hoping to have a unit finalized by the end of the yr and available for sale early next yr.

@xGR1MxREAPERx Here is the link to the cooler that I used on this build. Yes, it should work in the middle of the front seats as well, but I haven’t tried it there personally. Sresk Defender Center Under Seat Storage Box/Cooler, Removable Underseat Storage Bin Cooler Bag Fits for Can Am Defender/Defender Max 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 Replace OEM #715003446 a.co/d/bKSvksB

@@kpoutdoorcustomz137 that one isn’t available anymore but underneath it had one that was same thanks

I believe the mirrors are usable. I will say that the drivers side window frame is in your view of the mirror, but you can still see what’s next to you. I asked the customer this question and he agrees with what I said above. Thanks for the question.

Ron, it is the stock BRP dome light. Here it is on Amazon. Can-Am Dome Light 715002455 New Oem www.amazon.com/dp/B018T3122Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_7AsEfQcdI9N8Z

Scott, I have not been in the machine at full speed but my guess would be 55 mph plus. I read somewhere the factory top speed was 66mph. With an ECU tune I’ve read people getting up to 75 mph. I think this machine is better suited for low and slow, not high and fly.

I want one that I can run down the road too, 55 mph at least

@@Hemi878 I’d say this machine will do that for ya.

That buss bar is easy to access. Just pull out on the top of the panel that has the 4x4, Diff lock and the multi function switch on it and the whole panel will come off. I point to it here at 7:08. The buss bar is just behind that panel. To reinstall the panel first hook the bottom tab and then roll the panel up and snap into place.

That is a Savage UTV storage case. Thanks for watching!

Thank you!!

I did not install a clutch kit. The owner only rode it a couple of times before putting tracks on. Once we put the tires back on and get more miles on it we may consider a clutch kit.

@Battleboy 21 I do agree. I don’t know too many people these days that run wire rope on their machine. That includes several off-road groups I’m involved with. I used KFI brand synthetic rope. It is my understanding on the 23 model machine they come with forward a arms and 30” tires already installed. So you should be able to install the 30” BFGs no problem. One thing to check is if the machine is still running the wider rear wheel. If it is, you may not be able to rotate the rear wheel/tire to the front because it may hit the suspension up front. This is why everyone is using the front wheel at all 4 corners. Then you can rotate the tires and get longer life out of them. I did this on my RZR and have over 4k miles on my tires and still have about 40% tread remaining. Hope that helps.

Yes, I think it would be possible to install the conduit in there. It might be a little tight near the gear shift assembly though. Good idea.

I did not do anything with the speedometer to correct for the larger tires.

Today, I took the machine to the dealership and they changed the tire size in the computer and that corrected the speedo. At 35 mph the speedo was off by 3 mph. I checked it vs a handheld gps unit. Now they are the same.

Glad you enjoyed the video. Happy to help.

4ft. Thanks for the feedback. I’ll keep that in mind.

@OREDSOX7 I used a 12ft 2x6. If you’re asking about the door tilting side to side while it’s on the wall, I first found the balance point of each door by holding it off the ground prior to placing it on the bracket. Once I found the balance point I laid out my bracket spacing from there. Hope that helps.

@@kpoutdoorcustomz137 thank you for the quick response. I appreciate the information.

That’s exactly what I thought the first time I took the doors off. Also they are a little awkward also.

@Clayton Delbo good info regarding swapping the roll pin out for a bolt and lock nut and how to position the shafts for removal. Only problem is that, as you and other videos have mentioned, you need to remove the skid plate. I have an aftermarket full skid plate and can not access several of the mounting bolts because my tree kickers cover them on the underside of the machine. And as I noted in the video, I didn't want to remove the tree kickers because of having to replace the expensive one time use expansion bolts. Otherwise the way you explained it would be a good way to remove the shafts. I have had to do this procedure and to replace my u joints and it went much quicker this time around. Mainly, because when I reassembled the floor pieces the first time around I cut the center floor pan in half. Made it easy to remove the next time around.

Glad I could help. As a side note, when I put the center floor pan piece back together I actually cut in half first. This made the reassembly process much easier. Then just last week I had to replace the U-joints in this machine (7k miles on the machine). Having already cut that floor pan in half made the job go quicker this time around.

Josh Leidholdt it is up Trapper Creek. South of Pinehurst.

@Aaron Mccaffery You are welcome.

Those are rokblokz mud flaps

Sorry it took me a while to back to you. Yes, the output shaft on the transmission has splines that the slip yoke should slide onto.

Yes. The rear seat belts will come out, along with the rear seat base. This needs to be removed so the rear close-off cover piece (covers the fuel tank and houses the battery) can come out.