Great news Mike. I have done a fair amount of repair work but never an actual build.

Mike just watched your video. That’s exciting news. Just subscribed to your channel. I’ve been working in electronics since the 70’s. Can’t wait to see these kits hit the market.

Very cool! A video I would recommend to anyone learning best practices.

Am i going to need a extra phono stage to run it with a turntable using a reguler MM cartidge ? Or will it run just fine ?

So exciting, Mike. Congratulations again on your audio journey. I just love the minimalist look of the chassis, and I think the walnut casing is going to bring it all home. Well done!

I just bought a very NICE heathkit AA-100. . im a young kid living in Portland oregon . And im interested in getting it serviced. I really like the work you did . Is there any chance you might be interested in doing it ? Or you completely done servicing them

Where are you located ? Any way to contact ? Like email or number ? I have a heathkit aa-100 that works fine but could probably use a modest tune up just for safety . Im in Portland oregon myself.

I love my HeathKit AA-100, I must say and I had a lot of Amplifiers in my life, but this unit makes incredible smooth sound, I also recapped it and I would never sell this angle of sound. I have here Mcintosh , Sonic Frontiers FSF-80, but the good old Heathkit makes the best sound I have ever heard!

Thank you for sharing your expertise. A had a HK AA-151 included N/C in a recent purchase of a metal press. I am inspired!

Bonjour de la france🖐, superbe réalisation, il est magnifique et merci à vous de faire revivre ses amplificateurs à tubes, je suis propriétaire du même amplificateur, bravo pour votre video ❤

Change out the white porcelain sockets, they don't have good reliability. Use the gray Beldin sockets instead.

I kinda like the "utility" model.

Hi! Do you still do restorations on the aa-100 ? I’m currently looking for someone that knows these particular unit please let me know thank you.😊

Hope I'm not stepping on any toes but I got a chance to listen to this amp today. It has very smooth and clear sound. Bass was solid, midrange was clear and well defined, highs were well pronounced and not overbearing. Looking forward to hearing a pair!

Although I have no need for another mono amp, I would love to build one of the prospective kits. In 1960 my dad and I built a Heathkit SA-2 integrated stereo amplifier (which I use almost daily). I would go for a kit with transformers even though that would increase the cost.

YES THE AMP WE SEE SOUNDS ABSOLUTLY FANTASTIC BUT As you pointed out the transformer you will get most certainly won't be the same & then there is the fact it has only 120 volts where the rest of the world runs on 240 volts which is where your main customer base will come from Are you going to call it a Tucker ???? I am not trying to be nasty & hateful just making a very small point. Kiwi Rod

Looks promising

I'm a big and Life-long fan of Valve amps. My first encounter with Valves was back in 1951, when my father bought a COSSOR Radio-Gram. I then found QUAD II amps, followed by the Leak Stereo 20, which also uses EL84 valves. I currently run a Kit Amp from World Audio Design - K5881 Mk2 - a British design by Noel Keywood, who is/was the owner of Hi-Fi World Magazine. He designed a series of them back in the 1980's/90's. Using EL84 and Russian 5881 Valves, amoungst others. All were Class A or AB. The K5881 is a 20 Watt Push-Pull amp, but he also used the same valves in a 17 Watt Parallel Single Ended model. I run my K5881 through a pair of QUAD ESL 57 speakers. The front end is a World Design Phono 3 - Not the same company as World Audio Design - into a World Audio Design KLPP1 Pre-amp and into the K5881 Power Amp. Used almost exclusively with LP, but sometimes with CD. I've subscribed to your channel and am looking forward to your further postings on this subject and the series of Kits you are designing. Cheers. Russ. UK.

There is a lack of bass and an excess of treble. I do not know if it is because of the loudspeakers or because of the monoblocks.

You should activate the subtitles option if you want to have a larger audience in the future.

@:18 what's the point of a pre-amp if it can't also handle a record player? "then on top of the phono amp, you'll need a cartridge amp before it goes into the phono amp... ANNNNND, you'll need a stylus amp before it goes into your cart. annnnnnd, you'll need a post power amp stage between the power amp and your speakers... just a final tweaking". You've convinced me to just use my vintage receiver for everything.

Love your channel, especially the Heathkits. James's Audio Gear in my KZfaq channel

Sounds fantastic 🤩

love the design... even as a test it is gorgeous. Can't wait for the kit.

First observation ...............Timing and TONE are excellent ...........witch is not the case in many commercial amplifiers ........even if they measure outstanding but do not sound correct... Congratulations Tell something about the circuit and the tubes ......

👌Can you provide the titles of the musical selections? Can't wait for your next video.

A friend has one of these, what could cause voltage present on the metal chassis? touching the chrome bezel gives you a tingle when turned on..

Looks like you're on the right track, circuit probably looks like a Fender Champ or Garnet Herzog (with the exception of using an EL 84 output instead of a 6V6).

Hopefully you are going to leave all the AA-100 videos out there, I have the board I bought months ago and will not get to til summer

Cant see shit !

Yes, I have a 30 year old broom....it's had 5 new heads and 3 new handles....I love my old broom.... :) Quality control on vintage replacement components is left up to the consumer....it's a lot cheaper for the manufacturers that way....

Adding a ground wire to a vintage tube amp can introduce ground loops and noise from associated equipment that is also part of ground system in house. I think the audio community is split on this subject. Myself, I rewire vintage tube amps to use a polarized plug, hot side wire travels through fuse first, then on/off switch. It wont hurt to try a grounded cord if you want, but many who try simply make a mess of things with making the hole bigger to accommodate the larger cord, and there is no strain relief. If amp has a buzz or noise when you plug it in, install a polarized cord instead.

A Single Ended EL84 is a great start. PP 6V6 would be nice. A PP KT66 or KT88 would fill in full spectrum of power. For me keep the amps simple without tone control or other clutter. Have options; lower priced "standard" Iron and caps or high quality iron and caps. Triode switches option along with Fixed bias or cathode bias choices.

Single Ended EL84 can sound simply amazing! I have two vintage SE EL84 amps that I love. I will be very interested in this product.

PSET 6AS7G

Sounds great, I like my Heathkit W-5M's. They have plenty of power for my listening and I use 6L6's not the KT66'S. The AA-181 is also a very nice sounding amp but 7591 and 6EU7 tubes are not cheap or easy to find. The Sherwood S5000 II however has been my go too since I restored it. It too has major switch issues.

How bout a mac clone.😎

SET to kick it off would be my preference. Jeff

Hi Mike. Super. Super. Super. Couldn't be more excited for you. Smart move in my opinion. I'm all in. Would love to start simple with a basic EL84 monoblock system, and go from there. Wattage? Preamp, too? Feel free to use me as a guinea pig for the first models out. Can't wait. Jeff

Where are you located?

Very cool. Like your choice of Music.

Hello. I have one that has an intermittent right channel. Do those tone control modules ever fail?

The problem with PCBs is that heat is the greatest enemy. Over time they will fail and not in an easy way to find. I live in Australia and we call them valves. The sockets should be mounted to the chassis, not the PCBs. I own a Leak Point One Stereo 20 that needs a full going over. I have to find someone to do it. I'll get there.

how about using a variac to test your rebuild instead of changing blown fuses?

The tubes from Jugoslavia (Yugoslavia) are actually made by Ei factory and licensed by Telefunken West Germany. If they check OK, I suggest you keep them.

excellent work sir. Thanks for sharing all the tips!

Hi, I'd like to offer some constructive feedback. As an engineer and audio amp/preamp designer as well as a Ham op since I was 15, 50 years ago, I take exception to what you said regarding not having concerns about powering the unit on without any protective measure. You may get away with that but at some point when you have a completely shorted electrolytic cap just after the rectifier, what may happen is it will briefly draw far more current than the rectifier can deliver resulting in a blown rectifier or worse your HV tap(s) on your power transformer will open. A simple fix is to pull the rectifier out or open one side of a diode bridge if the circuit does not have a tube rectifier. Then check your primary side of the xformer then all of the secondary voltages. If all looks good your transformer is probably OK. However, in case you do have a very low resistance condition with a cap or rectifier it is best to monitor the current as you bring up the AC power with a variac. Just use your multimeter in series in the current mode with one of the input AC lines to measure the current. It will swing high for the first few second while caps are charging after the rectifier is up then go down a good bit. On simple fairly low power tube amp, the initial surge may be over 2 amp then quickly go down to well under an amp..."usually" As you probably know, almost every electronics YT channel doing tube work has had their version of a dim bulb tester.. They were used as far back as the 1930's in radio shops according to some reading I did a few years back when everyone was excited about these simple devices. If you do have something which will rapidly hog what little power coming from a secondary winding, the bulb will act as a ballast and protect the transformer by glowing brightly. Finding transformers for vintage equipment is tough to impossible. Good luck with your restore !!

I had one of these for a few years. The most striking aspects of it to me were the separate treble and bass controls for each left and right channel, and the control that turned gradually from mono to full stereo. Amazing warm sound too.

A step drill bit works best for enlarging an existing hole.

iirc Jugoslavia was how Yugoslavia was spelt in the country itself, the rest of the world called it Yugoslavia