Did you plan to kill two flats on the head just so we have some foot hold to torque the holding bolt?

Nice video and presentation. Page 10:44 indicates the receptacle was turned and measured before the plug saw holder. What if the plug is turned to fit the saw perfectly but later realize that the receptacle bore is larger than the plug a bit more than you intended?

Very nice work. I need to make one

The music is awful, do you see very popular youtube machinists with music overlays? me neither, It's distraction and boring... try without it, you may gain some viewers, and stop being so scripted it is easily as boring than the music...

I’ve got the same lathe with the flat top to the base , mine is number 224870

I just found this channel. Great info and I was really looking forward to seeing him build the Curta from scratch. I went to his blog website and found that he passed away in 2023. Rest in peace and thank you for sharing your knowledge in a fun way.

What is the song used at 6:19?

Its taken me most of the weekend but I think I have it right and repeatable. I followed Justin's method and also read the blog he linked in the info and like he said and its read some changes may need to be made but on both instances its a really great start. The TSP was a great degreaser, follow Justin's amounts. I used both 3% & 6% hydrogen peroxide I found using 3% required an extra tablespoon of salt and required 1 less for the 6%. I used the same amount about quater of a cup. Heat it up as per the video. I used 8% acidic vinegar same times displayed in the video. I brushed it on as per the video, dried it off with a heat gun as per the video I just gently wiped of the bubbly bits before putting it in the boiling water. I live in Brisbane Australia and our tap water worked no differently than using demineralised water, I tried both. I followed Justin's instructions and ecthed the parts straight out of the water. Once etched I dried them off and followed the process from step 2 through to 5 until I was happy with the black oxide finish personal preference. If your strapped for time doing the final boil for 10 minutes works just as good as 20 minutes. Changing the water before the last boil isn't a must from what I tell it keeps the oil cleaner without transferring red oxide residue. I tried 3 types of oil soak, vegetable oil, mineral oil and new engine oil. Forget the engine must have something to do with the detergents in it. Vegetable oil worked well but mineral oil (baby oil) worked best. Oil soaking time didn't effect anything if I soaked overnight or soaked it until it cooled down. All in all in, my first time doing any black oxidising it was great fun i learnt so much about household chemicals, Justin's video has an excellent explanation and easy to follow process. All ingredients purchased from the supermarket except hydrogen peroxide i purchased that from my local chemist. Give it a try. Thanks for sharing it.

This process does not affect the form of the steel? size? Specially, if there’s fine threads on the part that is being process?

Wow! That is awesome.

Does this work with steel or iron?

The old 'Brown Bess' blunderbuss were rust-blued, but the rusting chemistry was different. Antimony salts were commonly used...you'd get a deep purple-brown finish. Was common to 'scald' steel parts using cooking oil after they were colored...like seasoning a frying-pan.

Nice work buddy 👏

IMHO: THE MUSIC IS WAY TOO LOUD, AND DISTRACTING!!!...IT'S TOO BAD THAT SO MANY HOURS ARE WASTED TRYING TO "IMPROVE" THE MACHINES, INSTEAD OF MAKING THINGS!!..

Just trying this and a big thanks for a simple straight forward video. This is much cheaper than cold bluing solution.

Has anyone tried this on carbon steel cookware?

Fantastic project

This follows my previous comment. One way to detect conformity at the cone interface is by a blue ink test. Same ink we use in metal scraping. You will be the judge how much % contact area meets your satisfaction. If we desired to keep the same concept design and time invested in making it, consider this. Options: 1. Replace the inverted solid cone by a ER collet that fits the post bolt and the hollow cone. This way the flexibility in the collet can play a conformance role to better the conformity for stronger holding force. 2. Replace the inverted cone by a matching size metal ball. Ball with a hollow axle and without the northern hemisphere. So the half sphere is pinching against and expanding the hollow cone. 3. Replace the steel solid cone by an equal sized cone made of semi-fluid/solid material to catch up with the expansion of the hollow cone. Material can range from high hardness tire rubber trough lead and up to soft aluminum or soft copper (and not brass). Caveat? down this path we may experience difficulty in releasing the tool holder. That is caused by cone surface friction, because of the soft material had dug into the micro striations on the hollowed cone. That can be entertained by grinding and followed by lapping. 4. Is further improvement on 1 thru 3 above. Yo make a horizontal mirror copy of the upper half cone system to the lower half. Hope this helps.

Terrific thanks

Beautiful results. I am definitely going to try it.

Worked perfectly for me. Thank you Sir! I learned a new skill today. As a side note: I just rinsed the rusty paste off under the tap every time before I dunked it into the boiling water.

WOW! That’s such a simple design but can do some serious cuts!!!! I always looked at those QCTP’s and thought there might be a simpler way to design them, and this is a super awesome idea! You mention it belongs to another engineer and you just made some improvements to it, right? Wish I could scale that down to a Sherline lathe but not sure it would be able to cut it that nice. That shaper can be slow but sure it is a nice machine!!!! Could you tell us the total time it took you to make it? And a guesstimate on how long it would shorten the time by using a mill VS the shaper ? Thank you for sharing this project!

I MISS THE PODCAST!

When cutting threads, it helps to clean the drill of chips and oil it beforehand, as in this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jt96lKd228XcaY0.html

Very helpful and the piano was nice too.

Just found this. Amazing video. I have a SM 1130. Will be making this. Thanks again.

4:06 What? Between centers without lathe dog? Impressed…

Love to hear what you're saying, but my laptops sound is at 100 percent and still isn't loud enough 😂Maybe I have to try at night when everything is at it's most quiet 😎

Can you use this method on hardened knife steel like 1084 ?

Thank u

I filed down the tip by half, so I could fit the Pentel in my shirt pocket.

Ty very much

thanks for this which was informative as well as entertaining!: I have small handwriting and have only purchased the p205 and p203 to date - have held off the 207 and 209 as think they may produce too broad a line for me but am happy to be corrected by you if you think I’m missing out:) - thanks for this: have subscribed and liked:)

What type of metal can I use to make something like this but with hand tools?

You've been MIA from the KZfaq scene for quite awhile. I really enjoyed your videos. I you are still around and can reply to this comment, if you have any information on how to use the various functions of this DRO display, please share them here. Thanks

That doc on the clamping screw 😮

This appears to have gone about as far as every other curta revival project. Nowhere.

A good tradesperson never blames their tools

May I ask about the correct way to remove a collet once its firmed into place with the draw bar? I'm having to hammer the end of the draw bar to get the (MT3) taper free. This must be imparting quite an impact to the bearing of the lathe, which can't be a good idea. Should it come free quite easily, or is it OK just to keep on hammering?

Nicely done. Most impressed w 11+k subs and no ads! Loved the music. Electrolysis to convert the red iron oxide to black iron oxide might work more painlessly. I know it removes "rust" and the parts look black afterwards, but I'm not sure it's actually converting Fe2O3 to Fe3O4. Thanks for the video.

I was just curious about this project ? Have you completed it ? I would like to build my own . Would you share your sources or drawings with me ? I would pay for them . I live in the US . Thank you Terry

I have better luck using gun bluing and a torch. While it's hot, I put it in burnt motor oil. I use 0000 steel wood to clean the parts up. It takes about 3 treatments. I do a final dip in clean motor oil and use a rag. I made a hitch pin for my riding mower to pull my lawn aerator. It'll last about a month, but I still got some rust on it. The only thing that helps is using a clearcoat finish.

Rust blueing is a WASTE OF YOUR TIME! Do it like Gun Manufacturers do it ( im a 74 year old Gunsmith) which is HOT Blueing using heating if the part and dropping in a non detergent oil, like an automotive engine oil! Doubt it? Look at Colts deep luster Blue finish on $2 000 Pythons that lasts a centur!y

“If you are married, ah, that would be a hazard to your health.” 😂😂😂

Very nice work !

Hi . Great video lesson, timely, thank you. I just acquired an old Craftsman lathe, it has a milling attachment and I am just learning a whole bunch of stuff about milling. Especially about needing a draw bar and collets for holding tools etc. The lathe has a 3MT spindle, is it possible to make such a draw bar as yours if I obtain a 3MT collet chuck? Also, what size is the thread on the end of the collet chuck? I am hesitating of getting one because I don't want to get one just to not use it if it is wrong. What size dye did you use for cutting the threads?? Thanks again.

Just watched this again. I sure miss your KZfaq videos. I don't know why you stopped making them, but I sure do miss seeing your creative and entertaining videos. Please reply to this comment and let us know. Thanks.

Anyone try this? Did it help? More rigidity in the column and maybe the quill would be nice. I’m not sure about the base.

great music and information, cheers from Florida, Paul

Very nice work, but most home shops don't have the amount of quality tools that you have.