Thanks, I appreciate the support!! No worries on the orders, we will ship you a single screw or a pallet full of parts any time you like.

Likely going to be selling the hitch frame and putting the curt hitch onto my international. The camper hasn't been moved in almost 2 years. The deuce pulled it OK, but it is not comfortable and not big enough for the whole family. I can deal with slow speeds but the older I get the more I dislike driving deuces. If I'm in it more than an hour I start to hate it. The international has 4 dpors, air conditioning, and will go 75 with the camper on it.

On mine, the transmission is part of the rear end, at least where you shift it into first thru 4th gear. The torque converter as its called is bolted to the back of the engine. I am pretty sure you can take this out without taking out the engine. On mine, the torque converter unit is joined to the transmission with a small drive shaft. If you have the serial number, you can go to the case construction parts website and you can find the parts manual for the machine free to view there and you can look at specifics of the torque converter to see how it mounts.

The problem with waste oil I have is if it is black, it is still full of contamination. The black is carbon, which is abrasive. All of that in microscopic form is passing thru the hydraulic head. Most folks think that running it thru a series of filters is clean, but if you watch some centrifuge videos here on youtube you will see how dirty the waste oil really is. It comes out of the centrifuge almost looking new, and the best part is watching the centrifuge cleanout videos. You will see all the junk that has been removed that ends up running thru the hydraulic head. The pumps used on these trucks are not really military specific, they were off the shelf units with slight tweaks for military use. Basically they are just a tractor pump that was chosen due to availability at the time and a density compensator was added. Not really a specifically designed unit to be running other fuels thru, but they made it work. If parts were plentiful maybe my outlook would be different, but they are getting very scarce and are not cheap. Many of the items in the pump are no longer even available from American Bosch, things as simple as a seal in the boost pump and many others.

It has its quirks, but nothing major. Works pretty good overall. I picked it up at auction for $2500 to use in assembling a steel building and have literally done nothing to it since I got it home.

Thanks, with proper maintenance you probably wont ever have to do an engine. This truck was sold off because it needed $10k worth of brakes and bearings, so it became a parts truck. The removal of the engine was not to bad. I'm slow moving and get pestered by the kids often, so I was in it for 12 hours. I could probably do it in 8 hours 10 years ago.

@@bigmikesmotorpool9263 having some hydraulics for lifting really helps! 🙂

@@bigrollinghome2091 Oh for sure. I would not even attempt this without a serious gantry and chain fall or a machine.

Thanks, I really appreciate the feedback on this. The only thing different I would do is make it hold more organizers, which is planned, but no idea when I am going to get to building another. It would be nice to make this with two tall towers, and two half size towers in between. This way I can make a table top in between to place an organizer when I pull it out to get something, and I would make a back wall with peg board to hang up things that are otherwise hard to store like tape rolls, safety wire, etc. This is the plan for the second part of this whenever I get to it. I will likely weld the first one to the second part so it is one nice solid unit.

@@bigmikesmotorpool9263 cool ideas, thanks for sharing. I have a New Age garage cabinet setup from Costco that's almost exactly as you describe. Would be super useful to have something similar that holds these organizers. Hope you make more vids!

This I have not done, I am sure once it starts to leak I would get into it. Your best bet would be to go on the Case Construction website. They have all the parts drawings there, and if you have your serial number you can find the right set of drawings to look over to get an idea how it comes apart. I had dont that a few times myself on various things.

I have not yet had to use the extendable hoe, I imagine you would loose some power, but the 680 is regarded as being a pretty powerful platform, so I dont think it would matter much unless your digging stumps or boulders. I personally would not use the brake fluid. Your better off just fixing he leaks, even if its one at a time. I had to do all but two cylinders on my machine, the two I did not do had already been done recently before I got it. The seals were not much. and I did all but one myself. The one I did not do I just couldnt get it apart and gave to to a shop. The brake fluid I believe is thought to swell the seals, but It also will sell seals that are not bad, which might cause more issues. These hole alot of fluid, you would spend a small fortune later trying to flush all of the brake fluid out, and you likely would never get all of it. Many of my seals were so old and brittle that brake fluid swelling them would not have worked anyway because they were disintegrating. Fixing the leaks can be alot of work, it just takes time. I tore into mine and did many of them one right after the other in mid July working on asphalt millings and inside a shipping container. It was brutal, but in the end, the money I have saved from not loosing fluid has covered the cost of the repair kits, replacement fluid, and almost what it cost to have the shop fix the one cylinder. There is some tricks to getting the cylinders apart when they are super tight, but many of mine were not real tight due to the design case used where you line up a hole and put a screw in it. The special tools needed were not super expensive, but you will need a cutting torch to heat up the large nut on that holds the piston to the shaft, as it has some kind of lock agent on it, and a 1" impact gun will help with this nut as well. My gun is a cheap china unit, but has big air line and a big tank on the compressor. It will easily snap the studs right off a semi truck, but would not move that piston nut without it being hot. I just clamped the rod eye in my vise, supported the rod with blocks and then hit it with heat and the impact. I also had alot of leaks in the backhoe control spools, that one is easy, its all o rings. I was able to figure out the o ring sizes and just buy bulk o rings and now its dry as a bone. I still have some drips coming from the loader spool, I got the stuff to reseal that but haven't gotten time to take it apart and fix it yet.

@@bigmikesmotorpool9263 ok good to know! thank you very much for the info I really appreciate it

Hi, in the transmission/rear end assembly I use just common 80w90 gear oil. In the shuttle trans I am running Chevron 1000 THF.

@@bigmikesmotorpool9263 merci beaucoup thank you very much

Thanks!!

The compensator is one of the most common parts of the pump that will cause fuel to mix in with the engine oil. It was so troublesome that many trucks were bypassed by the government while they were still in service.

@@bigmikesmotorpool9263 it is advisable to do bypass even though my truck carrying heavy load? It doesnt affect the performance?

For sure. The compensator is only used for maximizing the efficiency of alternative fuels for using fuel other than diesel in an emergency situation, for instance, with it bypassed, if you run gasoline it will not run very well. It will not have any effect on performance of the truck carrying larger loads while using diesel fuel.

Its good, and you are correct about nothing electric, it is however slow with only 134 hp, and its not comfortable by any means.

If using the original filter head with a spin on adapter, then you would need both. I imagine that if you did something completely custom and removed the original filter mounting head, you could probably find a single filter that might be able to do the job.

Thank you so much I may have questions later

@@sgt-ho3bd No problem, glad to help. Feel free to email me your questions to [email protected]. Easier than doing it thru YT.

Thanks Dann!!

Thanks, I would love to do more videos, but unfortunately time is not my friend. What all would you like to see in a camper vid? Next time I plan on moving it I can try to get some footage.

@@bigmikesmotorpool9263 some footage of it taking off with the camper and some drive bys would be awesome. Anything M35A2 is great, but don’t get me wrong all your videos are good stuff. 👍🇺🇸

Hi Mike, thanks for all your help with my deuce resto! Keep those parts coming.

The deep ones seem to have been discontinued, but are still out there if you hunt around for them. The shallow ones you can find online at zoro tools and home depot.

Good to know. I got nervous because the photos on homeless despot showed two different colors of yellow and I wasn’t sure of product quality. Shallow is much better for me.

Thanks Collin!!

Might be just a cheap made drill bit. If your bolts are not anything hard, a HSS (high speed steel) bit should do the job. If they are something harder like stainless, you should look for a drill bit that is designed for the material. You can find a wide array of different types of drills on McMaster-Carr, and they likely have the metric bolts in a wide array of different materials as well.

www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/collections/5-ton-parts/products/shutterstat-rebuild-kit-for-m939-series-trucks-ca20000k

I ordered them thru my case dealer, but there was not much left available at the time. If you are going to do it, I would call them right away and see if anything is left. if there is no stock, it is not the end of the world. I cant remember off hand exactly what it was, but there was a certain Chevrolet truck that used pins and bushings of similar diameters that was available thru Stemco-Kaiser, K70G was the kit number. I cant remember off hand what had to be done, but it some machine work was needed for sure. I have never tried this kit for myself, but looking thru catalogs with dimensions I think it would work with some mods. After seeing what happened to my beam/pin bores after having bad pins for so long, I think you should definitely get it fixed. The constant banging of loose pins is what hoggs out the bores, eventually I think they would completely blow out or probably blow the steering cylinder rods apart from being off angle.

Thanks Michael, it is definitely a fun hauler for our somewhat local runs, but I am probably just going to buy a medium duty crew cab truck like an international or something to build a dedicated hauler. After an hour or so in the deuce in july or climbing hills the cool factor turns into the hell factor 🤣🤣🤣

Thanks, the HF bins are taller than the Stanley bins. I was hoping they would have been the same, as there is a ton of files available to 3d print different lengths and width bins for the HF model, but not many for the Stanley. I just designed my own so that wasn't a huge deal. The base dimensions of the small medium and large HF bins are basically the same, if they are different its so minimal that it wont matter.