Yes, Im curious about the internals 👍😊 i never heard something about them ☹️

Pssst.. this giant amp really doesn’t like 2 Ohms mono 😳

@@audiokeller1975 yeah most class ab amps don't like 2 ohm mono but they usually make the most power there they usually start to run really hot I had a alpine 3545 class ab amp that is a monster 2 channel from the mid 90s it was wickedly under rated I believe it was rated 250x2 at 4 ohm 350 x2 at 2 ohm 750 x1 bridged at 4 ohm not rated for 2 ohm bridged but the amp had no trouble running 2 ohm bridged it did around 1500 x1 at 2 ohm bridged was it's real life power it made and those ratings was at .005 THD so it was quite a good sounding amp also. The amp used 90 amps of fusing 3 30 amp fuses Wich I replaced with 3 40 amp fuses the alpine had dual positive and dual negative power inputs . Big d wiz did a video on the alpine 3545 amp and also did a amp drag race video with this amp.

Thank you very much for these nice words 👍😊

Yes, I test with just 13.6-13.7V.

@@timothygray7650 it’s not for sale

I understand but I'd just like to know price of a great amp.

I just want price of great sound + power.

You can get old amps used and if you are lucky you find a guy who is not a fanatic and sells it very cheap. That’s the situation here in Germany, some people want 250€ for a good sub amp and other people who arent Rockford fanatics sell the same amp for 75€ .

Well it's probably out of my range anyhow. But I do have a question. Which is better the original power 1000 mosfit Rockfordfosgate. Or the new style in these years.

Thank you for the information, are you or your parents still into car audio? Das ist sehr interessant 👍 Schöne Grüße aus dem Norden 😊🤘

@@audiokeller1975 Mein Vater geht jetzt auf die 87 zu, und ist gesundheitlich leider nicht mehr in der Lage zu "schrauben". Zuletzt hatte er noch ein Liebhaber-Projekt: Röhrenverstärker. Dazu haben wir auch mal einen kleinen Imagefilm gemacht: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oLp6osaYqNzJiXU.html Wie gesagt, leider kann er das mittlerweile nicht mehr weiter verfolgen.

Das ist ein stolzes Alter 👍 Vielen Dank für den Link, das Video ist sehr schön geworden 😊

How many subs will you buy? If you go for one sub I would get a 4 ohm sub and connect it bridged mono 😊

Moin! Na dann raus damit 😊

@@audiokeller1975 habe die eingebaut. Die Endstufe schaltet bei etwas mehr als "zimmerlautstärke" ab. Mache ich leiser geht die wieder an. Andere Endstufe angeschlossen und alles geht. Kann also nicht an der Verkabelung liegen. Was kann das sein ?

Wird die Endstufe dabei sehr warm? Wie sieht es bei der genannten Zimmerlautstärke aus mit Vibrationen? Ich könnte mir noch einen Wackelkontakt am Remote Eingang vorstellen , so einen Fehler hatte ich mal an einer alten pioneer Endstufe.

Wird nicht warm. Vibrationen sind auch nicht vorhanden. Wenn die Musik leise ist, läuft die. Ein "schlagen" mit der Faust auf die Endstufe ändert auch nix (Wackelkontakt €

@dfgert8105 dann fällt mir erstmal nichts ein, was hängt als Last an der Endstufe?

Yes, I know the guys who have spare boards for this amp but I am located in Germany, shipping is way too expensive ☹️ but I rewired the damaged traces of this board, if I remember correctly, the traces were for the opamps power supply- I have to rewatch my own video 🤘😊😂

@@audiokeller1975 Oh that's to bad about the shipping, I have a punch 45HD that was repaired with one of his boards and it works great. I pretty much got lucky with my 75HD the caps didn't corrode to much of the board.

I still use a punch 360a2 for an outdoor system with a big battery 👍 if you are going to use it at home i suggest a strong heavyweight powersupply 😊

@@audiokeller1975 hi thank you for the very kind and valuable reply But what about the sound Is it good? I also have another idea in mind Bypass the internal SMPS and add a mains transformer plus a diodes bridge I am a little on DIY

The sound is great in my opinion but that doesn’t mean anything, my ears are capable of hearing up to max 14.5-15kHz , but I really like how those old fosgates sound 👍

@@audiokeller1975 hi thank you very much again Same hearing also here as i said i admire how the best car audio amp are designed and built I will look for the model you mention I will try both a powerful 12V smps and some other solutions Kind regards gino

@gino3286 also Check the ix dsm series Amps from mid 90s , the earlier ones had problems with the 10uF 16V SMD capacitors which started with age

The last time I had this amp opened on the bench is several months ago , i cant tell ☹️

I look at the number on the caps. (Voltage) multiply by .8. And thats my guess number I can tell you wattage wthout turning amp on..mostly

I say peakvoltage then divide it with 1.414 to calculate with RMS voltage to get the power.

I can’t confirm that 100% but I think you are right because it looks very similar to my little hifonics Cupid which is a ZED amp 👍

yes, these are Zed amps

I am sorry , I don’t know the x504 ☹️

I think you talk about early 90s RF amp? I never had one of these, but heard they are impressive 👍

Around 60% or more is typical for a class AB amp I had tested so far. I tested other class AB amps which had >70% . Different thing is class D with more than 80%.

I quickly checked this video and it looks like at 55 volts it does 175 Watts just like you're saying the power 650 does. So, it's basically the same power output at the same voltage. What exactly do you mean by the Hifonics being current limited? Do you mean a regulated power supply section?

@@JasonWW2000I need to rewatch the video..because you called to my attention ... I might have put my mouth in gear before my ears had the info..haha. about my ohms law based decision I can tell you that you can manipulate resistor values and design the amp to work better at different imp loads and also b+ voltage level..regulation is mostly unrelated . Thats where the designer picks a voltage ...and anything above that gets thrown away. The purpose of this is under load the voltage of a basic car will swing with the beat of the music..with regulated amps..it doesnt matter if the voltage swings from 12v-13.8..the amp will get ( 12v..) when in theory..a non regulated design..with an upgraded alt and wire and battery bank.. will work way better with 15v stable.. but you must have the power..or chances are..youll blow up the amp..and or smoke the woofer.

Moin👋 Das stimmt natürlich , allerdings lasse ich das aus mehreren Gründen weg und teste nur bis zur clipping Grenze . Der erste Grund ist der Mehraufwand, mit fehlt einfach die Zeit. Der zweite Grund ist , dass ich mal einen selbsttest mit Musik durchgeführt hatte und musste mit erschrecken feststellen, dass ich es erst bei ca. 4% heraushören konnte. Bei purem Sinus natürlich eher. Dritter Grund ist, dass man mittels Ruhestrom Justage den Amp besser oder schlechter dastehen lassen kann also mehr ruhestrom: mehr Wärme aber weniger Verzerrungen. Daher: einfach ein paar Watt abziehen dann wird’s weniger 😂 ich habe das mal durchgeführt mit einem anderen Amp und bis zur Clip Grenze liegt man meistens unter 1%, das sieht bei den burst Messungen anders aus, da lasse ich bei den letzten cycles auch mal 5 gerade sein 😄

Hey watch the video again - the sound test is also included 😂😂👍👍

@@audiokeller1975 You can't do a sound test through KZfaq due to its various forms of compression and manipulation. Plus the speakers I'm listening to it through are not exactly the greatest. I never understood why people think you can do a sound test over youtube. You literally can't. Especially not an amplifier test where it's very difficult to hear the subtle nuances. Basically all amplifiers sound the same through KZfaq.

My guess is that it's going to sound just fine considering it's a decently priced class A/B design.

That’s absolutely correct, the limitations of KZfaq make it impossible to tell how an amp sounds, you can just compare them all with this limitations. On the other side: room size and speaker placement will do much more differences than KZfaq can ever create and it’s also a different situation in a car especially in the deeper frequencies. All that was the reason I asked if I should quit the soundtests.

​@@audiokeller1975he's asking you on your experience, how do you think the amp sounds? It sounds good as rockford?

Thanks 😊 I think you mean my small power supply? With this thing I limit power consumption and check the idle current or do trouble shooting avoiding too much current flow if there’s still something defective. I don’t know how manufacturers set the bias. Sometimes Rockford set the bias a little high which is good for soundquality but generates more heat. Setting it lower just to the point where distortion disappears produces less heat. You can also set it without scoping the output signal but watching the idle current. Run the amp very hard after setting the bias and let it cool down if the amps bias isn’t drifting away all is fine 😀

@@audiokeller1975 awesome! Thanks

Moin 👋 jetzt hast du mich erwischt, das ist schon sehr lange her. Ich suche mal aber das war in einem amerikanischen online Shop, der auch nach D liefert. Entweder mouser oder digikey..

Also der Hersteller nennt sich te connectivity , die Bezeichnung lautet für den 3.9 Ohm : te1000b3r9j , Musst du mal sehen wo du den herbekommst, preislich waren die ca. 70 bis 95€ pro Stück, den gibt es auch als 1 Ohm, aber ich habe die Rechnung nicht mehr.

@@zephmattix438 if there is the same amp with power instead of punch you have beefier power terminals and the filters have a slope of 24db instead of 12db.

Moin! Der Motor bekommt Spannung und läuft nicht? Ich hätte jetzt ein Relais vermutet, welches vermutlich den Motor ansteuert aber wenn Spannung da ist und sich der Motor nicht regt, liegt es am Motor - bist du dir ganz sicher mit der vorhandenen Spannung?

Gern geschehen, die ist wirklich zu schade um sie versteckt zu montieren👍

All hints and tips are more than welcome 👍 I used multicore flux solder which I still own from the 90s 😄 to keep the video. Little shorter I made a cut , I heated the Mehsas slowly.

@@JasonWW2000 yes. Basically a dsm with xover .. and i agree..i never heat a part enought to melt solder on its tab..not directly. The part will be compromised..

Thank you ☺️

Thanks 😊

Yes, both channels driven 950 Watts , single channel driven 1050 Watts 👍

Sounds like it was the MTX amp i really want to dyno - MTX thunder 2300 ? There is a nice video made by Dereck- oldschoolstereo.com

@@murrayshekelberg9754 the amp was to be the punch 300. But the designer went down the road to mtx and it bacame the ta2300..yup my friend john pleitz

@@audiokeller1975 I've been wanting to find a Thunder 2300! Great video btw, Loved seeing the repair process. I have a punch 100dsm that needs work.

@@jodyzung6455 what’s wrong with your 100DSM? Is it the older DSM or Punch 100 ix DSM ? The older ones feature additional boards with SMD devices on it. I had one of them repaired and it happens very often that the silver SMD capacitors leak out and create damage. They are 10uF 16V.

@@audiokeller1975 It's an original 100 DSM. I bought it used for cheap because the seller said one channel didn't work. That's all I know at the moment. I'll hook it up soon and see what happens. Hopefully I won't damage it further :)

Maybe mosfets?

MosFets, drivers - first check them properly to know if it’s worth fixing. In most cases it was worth it 👍

​@audiokeller1do you have a video on how to check mosfets and drivers?, thank you buddy.

@jsnjcnt infinity think so , but it’s easy if you have an meter with diode check. Check MosFets and drivers at power supply section and also drivers and mosfets in output section. Get a small power supply with current limiting and limit the current to around 3-5 Amps. Connect amp and check how many amps it pulls. Turn all bias pots full ccw and recheck 👍

Ok, awesome I have a Fluke multimeter. I think it has diode check. I need to get a variable power supply. Thank you for the help.

I don’t remember that hifonics made GPUs 🤔 I still own a 1080ti 👍😄