Thank YOU 🙏😉

Thank YOU 😉

Hi! The a setting is supposed to change the aperture in the first place and the other settings will follow. I assume you are in auto-ISO and your light is rather low and that’s why the camera doesn’t want to go below 1/30sec in order to avoid motion blur due to camera shake 😉

Thank you, Jamie. Much appreciated tips and feedback. Regarding the glasses: that depends much more on the glasses (coated vs not coated & convex vs concave) than on the actual lighting setup. I long planned to create a video about that in general, but companies are hard to work with here - I was hoping to get the very same frame with different coatings and glasses, yet none of them would want to do it. But that's the only thing you can really compare - if you have the same glasses. Regarding your ISO: that really depends on the amount of light you have - more (or closer) lights, less ISO. So yours might be just perfect.

Thank you, Aleksandra! A new much improved course is coming up though 😉.

Thank you 🙏🤗

Thank you 😉. I don’t see green lifhts being beneficial. It doesn’t add anything to the evenness of the lighting, would take away light as you need to filter it and you’d also have to be extremely careful to avoid light spilling on your subject 😉. As far as the color temperature. I don’t really have experience in this regard, but from my understanding, it shouldn’t make much of a difference. Some green screens have a cooler, others a warmer color. Outdoors however, I’m guessing that a daylight balanced source would create a more even color, as it would neither create warmer, nor cooler spots compared to the ambient. I hope that makes sense 😉.

@@wolfamri Excellent answer, thank you! The lightspill is a very important point, the consequence from green spill is far greater than white spill. And I completely agree with you on avoiding mixed color temperatures. The logic behind the color temperature question came into my mind when I was thinking of the RGB sensors in the camera and whether a pure green signal was better than a color sample polluted by R or B. Anyhow, thank you for playing along with the thought experiment. Also... I just wanted to say how I appreciated you used plenty of examples in your video. Its extra work, but it pushed it to the next level above most other greenscreen videos on youtube.

@toregresdal Thank you 🤗🙏. For the background the main thing is to make brightness and color as even as possible while at the same time getting a color that is as different as possible to the main subject (usually skin tines, so green and blue are best, that’s why they are commonly used. If you had a green martian as a subject, you’d have to use a different color 🤣). Green is better for digital because the usual bayer array sensor has twice as many green pixels as blue and red, so the green keys better than blue.

😅 thank you 🙏🙏

It's an Elinchrom 30x90cm strip box.

@@wolfamri thank you! Would the Godox soft box bowens mount 30x120 produce nearly identical results?

@@limebulls yes, it would be similar. It would even have more strip characteristic, meaning softer in one axis and harder in the other.

In a softbox it doesn't matter which one of the two. And for most other things it doesn't matter much either - except for when you need a more even spread - which you hardly do. The really big difference is the battery between these two. If you ever need to shoot a series of consecutive flashes, that will easily pay off. Have a look at the V860III - that's the best of both worlds IMO. Check out my godox speedlight comparison page if you haven't yet: godox-comparison.com/

Thank you 😉

Sorry to hear that it is discontinued 😢. Thank you for your feedback 🙏

Awwww, thank you so much 🤗🤗

Thank you 🙏. Me not speaking English fluently either helps a lot 🤣.

Great to hear that, thank you 🙏🙏

Thank YOU 😉🙏

Thank you so much 🤗🙏

Thank YOU 🙏🤗😉

So great to hear that, thank you!

So glad it was helpful. Thank you for your feedback!!!

Thank you! I‘ve since done a lot of research to nt make such a mistake again 😉.

Hi and thank you 😉. To get the 1:1 magnification, you need to get as close as the camera would allow you while still creating a sharp image. That’s the so-called close focus distance. That should roughly be slightly less than 30cm FROM THE SENSOR PLANE. That is also listed in the specs of your lens if you google it. I wouldn’t recommend a tripod unless for very specific use (e.g. focus stacking of a very still subject, like the crab spider). What really helps with the weight is doing some exercising with weights. I’m a very slim-armed person 😂, but as soon as I do some exercising, I don’t even have issues doing sports photography with big lenses for a few consecutive days 😉.

@@wolfamri Thanks for your reply. Do you have any tips on what I could do to increase my distance from the subject but still maintain the 1:1 magnification?

The only way is a tele converter 😉. Or a different (longer) lens.

Thank you, much appreciated 🙏🙏. It was 9 shots for that landscape image and most apps would let you combine tgem to a so-called HDR image. I personally use Lightroom for that 😉

Yes. But many people have a hard time imagining what that means 😉

Thank you 🙏

Thank you, Stefano! The biggest challenge with this camera will probably be focus. I suggest using manual focus and ask your subject not to move. The rest of the settings are the same across every camera if they are possible (depending on the light) 😉.

@@wolfamri Tks!!!

Thank you 🙏🙏

Hi! Absolutely. Just keep in mind that your aperture is fixed. Everything else is the same 😉

Thank you 🤗🤗

They are all awesome. Which ones did you use so far?

@wolfamri Had 40mm Art. •Have 28mm & 24-105mm. -Want the 40mm Art again. •Have D750 & D810, no need for Mirrorless, just yet. *Ironically, I use x2 Sigma Art you left out: 28mm (best wide) & 40mm (best standrd lens). I do like the look of the 35mm Contemporary for Mirrorless.

@Stop-All-War There were just too many lenses to test, so I sticked to the standard focal lengths (well except for the 105mm that simply interested me a lot 😄). I have to admit the only contemporary I ever owned was the 150-600. Nice, but the Art primes were logically better. Would be interesting to check a contemporary prime.

@wolfamri Yes Sir.

😂😂😘

Thank you, that’s so great to hear 🙏

Hi! I’m afraid that would be too little information for a video. They are really easy to use. Only two things to consider: the height if your room and that the ceiling needs to be strong.

Thank YOU 🙏😉

so great to hear that. Thank you 🙏

thank you 🙏🤗🤗

🙏🤗🙏

Thank you so much for your feedback 🤗🙏

While that is correct, I have to admit that I needed to read that four times to understand. I think that is a problem with a lot of things in education. Abstracting too much doesn’t necessarily help understanding. That’s why I try to explain things rather in-depth 😉.

Thank YOU 😉🤗

😂 That’s the best feedback one could ever wish for 🤗. Thank you and thanks for the identification 🙏🙏

I totally understand your concern. But trust me, I‘m an ultra-environmentalist. I would never hurt an animal for my own benefit. We let dozens of spiders stay in our house over the winter if they choose to come in. I sat it back afterwards. Plus: the same species of spiders sits for days on the same flower in our garden.

I’ve just remembered your comment while I photographed out in the garden. While I agree that we shouldn’t harm any animal and I never do, I also think that macro photography adds a lot of awareness for nature which is utmost important these days 😉.

Great to hear that! I felt that might be the biggest green screen challenge for many people ;).

@@wolfamri indeed it is, thank you, also the camera settings video was good one. Thanks!

Thank YOU! 😉

🤣 thank you 🙏