Good question- “rule of thumb “ for springing off is 1. Always into tide and if possible into wind. So in case of no tide, and wind coming from the stern quarter, you would spring stern out. If you would spring out the bow, then the wind would push your stern ( the whole beam is exposed to the forces of the wind) back onto the pontoon as soon as you start to go forward. Hope it is clear - try to draw it and it should be clear as mud ;)

@@Saga47swanSailing The mud thinned 🙃

What about 90° blown on?

@@lubberwalkerstern out as you can get a better / bigger angle due to the shape of the yacht -

@@Saga47swanSailing I crewed for a couple of skippers (yeah 2 captains one hand). We were in a 6 birth marina Bay. Two rows of 3 (3 tied to port and a acoss the water to the right 3 tied starboard) all facing in with just a Boat beam width down the middle between each row. We were the middle boat tied to port slightly blown on. The skippers discussed stern or bow springing (and were also confusing each other). I told them I'd get them out with less fuss than lines and shouted orders. I fendered the dockside bow and untied all lines. We just sat still. I had one skipper face aft on the helm, one skipper a roving fender and I had one too. I bow thrust toward the Dock and as the stern came out went into tick over reverse. We slipped gently through the gap between the boats behind us. The two roving fenders watching mostly the leeward. No lines, no snags, no hassle, no shouting). I call it a cheatspring.

@@MitKnukkelsen yes, we had a great sail without the notorious “STADT” seastate. Today we sailed passed Hustadvika, which can also be a challenge to get around.

😂

Noted, next video is in the making , will be with more commentary

That's an interesting idea. I too would have concerns about a knot jamming when single handed.

No, but you can ask uncle google

Thank you

😂

Yes, you can tie the “release” line to the boat and it will pull / release the hitch, when you reverse. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Crew still had to release a line up forward if you watch the video careully I think there was another line further forward.

@@grahamlongley8298 no, there is only the bow line with the rustler’s hitch . Slip the midship Motor forward When the yacht is away from the dock, then reverse. When you reverse pull the rustler.

@@Saga47swanSailing So how does a single handed sailor in the cockpit pull the rustler?

@@grahamlongley8298 you can tie the “release” end of the rustler to the yacht, so it will pull the rustler, when you go reverse

Thanks for letting us know.

Hi Jeremy, can you share your experience? Thanks in advance Chris

@@Saga47swanSailingstill no answer from jeremy after 2 months, typical troll. I’ve heard nothing but good things about silic one. No one can seem to articulate any bad experiences with it.

We made an offer in 2018 on Nordlys,,unfortunately it was under offer already and we didn’t get it . Swans are the source ;)

You have tie the ribbon as shown in the manual, then it will not slip. The black ribbon has to be tight around the bladder, so the inflated bladder will activate the MOB1. Page 7 in the manual oceansignal.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/MOB1-user-manual-v-01.07-02082019.pdf

@@Saga47swanSailing Thank you. We have the ribbon without the newer luggage tag type attachment. I can see why they changed it as the plain flat ribbon is very difficult to secure with out using a knot instead of just the sliding bead type. I should have Ocean Signal send me the new lanyard.

Yes, day sail then hike and explore

Yes, the mmsi number of your vessel / VHF

Hi Nicholas, we are sorry that you didn’t like our video - it was made for the crew, and not meant to be an educational video. We do educational video too, there are a few on our channel already. Are you looking for a specific topic for a video ? Looking forward to your reply. Skipper Chris

Also, if you have trouble on google chrome (like I did), try doing it on your phone! For some reason, the faster refresh rate makes it more reliable.

Hi - sounds interesting. I've searched on the term "draft controlled reefing system" but I'm not getting useful results. Care to let us know a bit more about it please?

@@philipwilkie3239 I don't sell it, and didn't patent it so I haven't been overly concerned about making it easy for others to install. I figure if they have the ability to build it, they have the ability to understand simple designs such as this. After I got abused due to someone claiming it was 2 complicated to fix because typical reefing systems can be fixed quickly. I can't be bothered helping people who think snapping 4 reefing lines on a 1000nm journey is normal and so I leave it for those who want to think for themselves on how to mount it. I never snapped 1 reefing line and my sail has zero chafe after 20000nm and I can reef earlier while still maintaining forward curvature behind the mast.

@@nonlinearplasma1370 That makes complete sense - I get exactly where you're coming from. I've watched all the clips and looked at the Insta pics as well - and I think I get the basic idea. The only thing that confuses me a little is there seems to be two different versions. Or I'm not interpreting the pics correctly. I have the opportunity to completely re-rig my 40ft cutter however I want. I'm prone to experimenting so I'll cheerfully take the hint and do my own homework. Thanks!

@@philipwilkie3239 It wasn't a hint, I'm happy to help those who want to build it themselves. I've installed this system on 2 boats, although the first was in a full length track and not that easy to put on any boom. This system works well for the majority of booms. I was improving the design as I was sailing. The basic concept is to have 3 frictionless rings per reef. The first is attached to the boom on a sliding system attached to the outhaul. The second is attached to the reefing line after being tied to the reef point. (Not the boom). The reefing line goes straight into the Sheave box. Then as it comes out the boom at the mast end the reefing line goes tho the other frictionless ring which is attached to the one on the sail end via dyneema which goes tho the frictionless ring attached to the boom. The front pulls the reefing line to the attachment point. Reefing line holds no weight, a secondary attachment point must be used to allow the outhaul to control the draft

@@nonlinearplasma1370 I'm based in Perth atm, although the boat itself is at RQ in Brisbane - don't ask - complicated story. I'm an automation/electrical engineer myself with a fair bit of hands on background. If you search on "burramys adams 40" you will find the site the original owner John Eurell maintains. The details you have written here clarify my questions for the moment thank you. It will be sometime before I am back in Brisbane and able to finish work on the rig. If nothing else I know understand the details are perhaps less important than thinking about the overarching goals you have been pursuing - good shape and minimal chafe . The other material on your website is intriguing - as someone who has dedicated much of his working life this past decade to crushing rock and dissolving dirt - it's way outside my competency, but it looks like an interesting exercise to work my way through. Once again thanks for responding. I may get back in touch later if I have any truly stupid questions to ask. Cheers

Thanks for the feedback, yes the swan 47 is a great boat and she loves big waves too.

We had such an awesome time in Dingle and on the west coast of Ireland that we have to come back with more time. Thank you for your hospitality

Port lights ? You mean the portholes / windows ?

Yes. Exactly that. The originals appear to be Goiot.@@Saga47swanSailing

@@bobgaysummerland I kept the frame , but change the glass

@@Saga47swanSailing thank you.

@@bobgaysummerland for top light hatches I also added new seals

Thank you for letting us know that you liked the video. The walk was amazing- a must do

❤