I don't think so with any of the tbi/tpi carb swaps we've done. The 02 sensoers are still hooked up and the computer's pretty basic being OBDI type. The only emissions issues would be in California and other states they do physical inspections and the c4 did not come with a factory carburetor which would be a failed test. I have no engine lights on or any other swaps done so far have either. If you did have a light come on then just pulling the light out under the dash area would turn off any engine lights that came on anyways.

@@djrowe10 great thank you very helpful. i do have one other question. was it very hard to set up the fuel lines and the throtle cables onto the carb? i cant imagine it being very difficult. but i just dont know enough to know if there are any weird problems you might run into.

You can either keep your factory fuel pump or swap it out for a low pressure efi pump like out of 1990s truck or car. If keeping factory pump, for the fuel lines you will need a fuel pressure regulator to step down the factory efi pump from high pressure of 50psi to low pressure for carb of 5-7psi. Holley does sell an ok regulator for this part number (12-880), but Aeromotive sells a very good one with part numbers (13301 or 13220). Amazon has some knock offs too. I have some info about this in other videos too. The sending fuel line can be kept as is by sliding factory's end fitting back and then can push on a high pressure fuel hose and clamps over line's end or you can get a flare tool to make the 37 degree flares ends needed to use -6AN fittings for a pro level set up with all hard fuel lines used for the best seal. Plus the biggest bonus about the factory fuel lines is you have a return fuel line that will come off of the regulator back to the tank to avoid dead heading and prevent vapor lock issues. Good luck with the swap! 👍

For throttle cable I usually just twist in a short loop the cable and use a braket to hold throttle cable and trans cable if using 700r4. Amazon, Summit, Jegs, and Speedway Motors all carry one. I got a cheap one off Amazon as holley knock off part number (amazon search bar part ID- (ASIN : B0B7ZLKMGP). www.amazon.com/Throttle-Carburetors-Aluminum-Adjustable-Anodized/dp/B0B7ZLKMGP/ref=asc_df_B0B7WYZNZV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=645143846372290782&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015260&hvtargid=pla-2281435179298&psc=1&mcid=b5b6c04c181336ceaf5957855ebd01c5&hvocijid=645143846372290782-B0B7WYZNZV-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1&th=1

@@djrowe10 hey man thank you sooooooo much! u have been extreamly helpful! im 16 and still learning all of this! i got this back in august 2023 and its been so much fun building and restoring it with my friends until i blew the engine about a month ago. so were swapping it and we decided to go with a carb just to clean up the engine bay and for simplicities sake. next im putting in new rubber bushing for the control arms because they are the stock ones and they are starting to creak and small cracks. im hopefully going to be making high 300s hp!!!! its a clean body and most all original also which is really cool. i got it when i was 15 and learned to drive stick on it. and then in april when i got my licence i got pulled over the same day lmao. really appreciate all the help and i am having a really exiting time with it! thanks again man!

The 1880/1885 gaskets are for 2 pc rear main seals. Felpro only makes the 34500 for the 1 pc rear main and has no other gaskets offered. I Fel Pro Oil Pan Gaskets OS 34500 R is designed to fit the stock timing cover on a Chevy small block engine (Gen 1) with the thick front seal and one-piece rear main seal. If you have the oem GM stock pan and timing cover this is the gasket for that. Since you have an aftermarket oil pan and did not say if using stock timing cover or not it is a guess then to say what gasket works best. But generally the aftermarket pans will use the thick front seal that is the 34500R gasket. If you are using short stock length oil pan bolts it is possible that the pan is not tightening up all the way and you could try longer pan bolts sold online. I have had some guys tell me that the 34500 has gave them similar trouble and it doesn't have any tangs on corners to go into rear main and timing cover grooves like other one piece gaskets have. The many variations of gaskets out there is why I use the combo of sealant and rubber gaskets and not just put on dry and chance leaking. I also think it is worth checking the front oil pan lip to see if bent, cracked, or warped so you can fix that area if needed. I have been using moroso pan gaskets with good success lately. The moroso one pc pan gasket you would need is part number 93151. There instructions specify that you will need to add silicone to seal area of timing cover lip and rear main cap lip area and not just the corners or completely dry either. Good luck with this build and let me know what you try or find out next. 👍

@@djrowe10 timing cover is original from that engine. And I tossed my old oil pan not thinking of this problem coming up. I have new bolts that fit fine but I did notice the rear main seal has studs, the front main seal has bolts, you think if I put studs it would be better off?

I use studs when I can for better clamping and to align the gasket easier. Probably worth trying them. You'll have to provide and update when you get it done.

Did you get a 1 piece pan gasket? Where is it leaking? Many guys use the wrong pan gasket since there is a thin front seal and thick front seal based on if oem gm pan or aftermarket pan. Wasn't sure what your overall comment was about.

My first opinion is that the plug was drove in too far. Seen many times. My second opinion is that the engine was hot enough to diesel and motor may have spun in reverse enough to push cam backwards into plug. My third opinion is the cam had to much clearance end play which can cause it to bounce back some into rear cam plug when initially moving forward and rebounding back. Try to set button end play at 0.004-0.009. Many guys forget to add gasket between timing cover and block when checking or to mathematically account for thickness of compressed gasket. I just use an old one thats already been compressed. If I had to choose I would say plug was drove too far in though, especially if your button clearance was correct. Just put in new plug and recheck button end play if you got it on stand. Worse case scenario is cam moves to much and lifter wheel wipes out or scars up lobe. Either way good luck with your build! 👍

I really was just looking at how to do it quickly and without a bunch of other complicated elecronic parts. I have 2 DC stick/tig machines also. But DC is a better type of welding overall for better performance in relation to penetration, appearance, and other things that when this AC welder was made in 1990 was much cheaper then a DC unit that could cost up to a thousand dollars. AC has it's use in a small limited type of welding and I suggest you go online and study up and learn more about DC and AC welding if you are getting in the welding trade. Also youtube has many master welder instructors that have dozens of videos about welding. Good luck with your project! 👍

Hey there! My family member has been battling cancer and everything's been on hold. Plus my spare time lately has been rebuilding my GMC 3500 454 engine that developed a rod knock spun bearing. I have ordered lots of parts to complete this swap and hopefully will be making more videos soon and be up and running for the summer. Thanks for checking in on me! 👍

I have a 12 bolt with Yukon posi and 3.42 gears from 1969 chevelle. UMI makes adjustable trailing arms for g body. I also have a currie 9 inch for g body collecting dust in the corner until I add a procharger down the road. Thanks for watching! 👍

The pitman arm will go over the larger key way style grooves with it's own key way splines sliding over the saginaw shaft with multiple possible directions to give you more adjustments if needed for a loose or tight gear box. Either you are not starting the dividing of turns left and right at the center point or something is broken inside the box. Ring gear teeth and shims can break in gear box causing limited travel along with other unwanted conditions. Plus it is possible to have the incorrect pitman arm which I have seen many times done in error. Was your box new or working normal before you started setting up the pitman arm or was it a used one? Lots of factors involed using older stuff verses new out of the box.

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Lowe's, Home Depot, and other hardware stores sell new locks to install for cheap too. Thanks for watching!👍

Oh yeah! I have 4 of them and even used old bed frame rails with casters for cheap to give a bottom frame that rolls around the garage easy. Now all of my tools are stored easy. Thanks for watching. 👍

Glad to have helped you with your project! 👍

It's something how polarity really makes a difference

Dart has told me they have safely made 750HP. I know many doing 900+ with power adders. I think it is more a matter of pistons and valvetrain then block issues with the SHP. MY GM 509 400 block (421ci) is pushing 13:1 compression and 647HP with zero issues for 3 years now. The whole GM high nickle block thing is quite a debate but I have never had a supposed GM high nickle block fail me but the regular castings did at just around 500HP.

@@djrowe10 thompson motorsports uses the SHP block in their 2000 hp shortblocks

Wonder how much more the little M block can handle then? Funny how 12 years ago when I decided to go with an aftermarket block myself 1000HP was rare and now is common with the turbocharged LS platforms and 2000HP is the new benchmark of extreme performance.

@@djrowe10 Yea from my research its common to go to the SHP Pro from what I've seen if your going for 2000 or more just because its only like 400-600 bucks more over the SHP but supposedly the SHP block can take 2000 as well some guy said hes had one at 1850whp about 2150ish crank without fail and on some forum a dart Tech said they had one up to 3000 in a dragster

@@djrowe10 My engine builder used the SHP block with dart billet crank, power adder plus rods, JE ultra pistons, Mast heads and all he does is turbo LS stuff for his dragster he actually has the record for LS dragster I think but he said it was good for 2000 so I guess ill take his word for it lol I wouldnt have mined an extra 500 bucks on the bill to just get the SHP Pro but lol

781 heads are the best choice for better street performance choosing OEM cast iron heads. If your application is towing then you could save more money on using traditional peanut port oval heads found on millions of 454 truck engines out there. They are best suited for low rpm max torque output related to towing. If for any other performance situation then just towing it is always better to have the 049/781 large oval port heads that flow well above the 5k RPM band with larger valves and minimal porting. Good luck with your project! 👍

I some what agree.. I was just curious about port velocity...I jabe a vortec 454 currently and I see these heads make about the same power as peanut port with a cam as the vorteca do stock..I'm just curious how the bigger ports work down low with a smaller profile towing cam.

Well that is very complex question but has been answered in the past both in theory and on the dyno. The peanut port heads can only make around 400+ HP NA with insane port work and bigger then stock valves. The large oval ports can and have made 700HP or more on the dyno with just bigger valves (2.30x1.88) and moderate port work. Google search for Dr. J 781/049 port work power. Then watch Richard Holdners TY channel for more BBC testing. I don't want to make a response as long as the bible but port velocity is directly related to how the metal is port shaped. Cylinder head intake/exhaust volumes and engine bore sizes work together as an air pump to create power. Their is direct correlations between how much air will go in and out of engine based on size and volume. That is why large oval ports will make more power all day long in the entire power band and peanut ports have a small rpm range that was made just for the powerband of towing/hauling. Watch Richard Holdner on KZfaq here about peanut port heads: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e7hynJSYzrGwcY0.htmlsi=NWTJzBChKE5g77go

Watched them all... I understand what heads work for good street builds with larger ports... I'm trying to narrow it down to what size and design ports work best with a low duration high lift cam... not alot of in depth real world tow motor builds that actaully have lower rpm in depth dyno pulls.

I would have to know what cam you are looking at and what head choice. Low duration and high lift truck cams are usually for 4x4 builds and not towing applications. Why would you want high lift for towing capabilities since lift dictates the power band rpm range and the higher the lift the higher rpm is needed to achieve the top of that power band. 4x4 trucks will have a bigger stall or manual trans to get rpms up faster into their power band. Tow trucks just need low lift low mid level rpms to get heavy loads going. Smaller valves and not the larger 2.19/2.25/2.30 sized valves or even stock sizes will be sufficient for any non racing high performance build if you do mild port work. What exactly are you trying to accomplish again?

Um, not sure how to respond?

Not too sure about that combo since I have never tried it. If you try it please let me know how it works for you. 👍

No, the ECM is still intact but I did not attempt to hook up cruise control and decided to remove the entire cruise control system for more engine space. I really am most worried about the VATS system failing or locking out. My foot is in it too much for cruising anyways! 👍

Most of the newer high end racing and custom carbs come with holes already in the butterflies. I just think people today run more aggressive cams even in street driven cars that require that little boost of air. Glad you were able to get it figured out! 👍

Glad to have helped. Thanks for watching! 👍

Glad it was helpful! 👍

The gasket is still needed too since it would be too difficult to get the amount of sealant just right. Thanks for watching! 👍

@@djrowe10 I’m gonna try to do without gasket. Any tips by chance on bead size? I heard 1/4” on the right angle corners so I think imma try 1/4” whole thing

1/4" is probably fine. I have only done transmission pans that way and think it was about that size. Good luck with that and hope it worked out! 👍

Thanks for watching! I had made a few more recordings that I lost due to a damaged USB card. The last 8 months have been on hold from the project due to a car accident hurt my back and leg. Now that winter is approaching and I am walking better again, I will be taking on the completion of the C3 corvette. I usually do a bunch of work while recording and upload afterwards so check back around end of February. I am currently rebuilding a th400, th350, and 4L80e for my personal cars then will jump back into things. 👍

@@djrowe10 10-4 Appreciate you... Speedy Recovery and stay safe 🙏🏿

Thank you as I am slowly getting there!😐

Valve covers where found on facebook marketplace locally from an older guy who says they were from the 1990s.

Welding is an automotive repair necessity. Thanks for watching. 👍

I love working on carbs because they don't need a computer or electricity. Just a screwdriver and vacuum gauge 👍

Yes was mixed with water. 1 gallon acid to 20 gallons water in 55 gallon drum.

I think you mean Felpro? Sounds like a great idea. Please make a video demonstration. They also don't say to use sealant on rear main seals but all professional builders do. Plus we use only 100% sealant between the intake manifold and china wall but I guess you just use the little rubbers that come in Felpro kit? I'm sure those rubbers keep you safe. Thanks for watching! 👍

Not too many people will go through the effort of porting cast iron heads or pay a shop $2k to do them since the after market has more affordable aluminum heads. I personally buy AFR enforcers as good low cost heads for the 489-540 builds but these heads were for a 454 c3 vette restoration build. Thanks for watching! 👍

@@djrowe10heck I got a great deal....new bronze guides, hardened seats, new valves, 5 angle valve job, porting and valve unshrouding and heads that flow 320 cfm for $900. 👍.

​@@trailerparkcryptoking5213Sounds like a hellava deal! Not around here in Cleveland Ohio area...Bronze guides alone cost $600-800. Glad you got a deal and I personally buy AFR for myself last few years.

No problem and thanks for sharing! 👍

If you watched the whole video you would have heard me comment on fel pro and my personal discussions with them about using sealants. I allow comments and opinions from everyone within reason but since I build multiple amounts of engines for racing per year, I am sharing my methods that 100% work best for my work but it's a free country where you can do whatever you want buddy. I plan to stick with what has worked hundreds of times for my builds but please upload your own video to show us your way so I can watch and comment too. I will be waiting back yard garage guy! 👍

I know what you mean! Good luck with the gasket swap out and thanks for watching 👍

@@djrowe10 been a week now and all good no leaks, I ran about 1/4" bead of ultra black top and bottom and it came out beautiful. Next time I change my transmission fluid and filter I'm going to try the same, I'm always getting a little sipage there and have to tighten bolts so it don't leak. Thanks, your video was what convinced me of doing it. 👍👍

So glad to hear about the good outcome! Plus I really appreciate your responses to let me know it helped as it helps others! 👍

Crankshaft rear main bearing functions as a thrust bearing and needs "play" or if too tight will wear out and cause too much forward movement and hurts the shaft and will lead to spinning a main bearing. Most engine "play" is 0.020" or less and not 1/8". That is reason for magnetic dial gauge to measure. Plus your timing chain if a double roller with a torrington bearing will require grinding on block to clearance the wider chain and sprocket. If not will be tight and will wear down these parts damaging them over time. Some one probably has a yt video about it. Good luck and go get your magnetic dial gauge! 👍

Because I did not use anything except the bridge rectifier is the reason I stated it is not a true DC current. Thanks for sharing.

It will flow 820-840cfm. The biggest advantage to this set up is higher venteri velocity for for a crisp throttle response.

Not always. Brass is soft and easy to quickly cut but steel fittings can snap a drill bit in the vice so taking a few steps up in size is just safer for the tools. Thanks for watching!👍

Great stuff to use for sure!

Use the plastic clips that twist into block bolt pan holes to hold gasket up while you put pan on. Not all gasket kits have them so be sure your kit you buy has them. Sometimes the crossmember will block the opening and you will have to seal the gasket to the pan and press it on the block. If that is the case then remember the sealant cure time and to get it up before it starts starts setting up.

It's hard to say. Many auto techs order the wrong parts simply because of parts charts online are wrong way too often. Also, they might not have centered the pump or maybe didn't lock steering wheel straight for install. Plus it is easy to miss align splines on pitman arm. Steering should be correct after replacement. Hopefully you can get it corrected soon and back on the road!

Glad it helped out. I actually have the finished video production of these heads with flow numbers to post soon too with the 70's big block corvette they went into with a dyno run when the owner finishes his exhaust work. Good luck with your project! 👍

I ran a fuel pump relay kit to the fuel pump. Summit, Jegs, Amazon, and Ebay sells them. 12 volt key on power will bypass the vatts fuel shut off system. I jumped the 12 volt power line off of engine bay. Google has multiple diagrams showing how to do this. Good luck with your build! 👍www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10564/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz8emBhDrARIsANNJjS6ia4x-zphk6QnKIiMl1jXP__w3EJnbRLgiRMh4xOOS4xqJcNbTj8QaAoqnEALw_wcB

No. Their instructions show how to put sealant at the corners of the pan. When you buy a one piece pan gasket there will be instructions inside showing you where to put the sealant.

Edelbrock torker II intake has modern part number of 5001 on their website. www.edelbrock.com/torker-ii-intake-manifold-small-block-chevy-5001.html

The 850 gasket hole will match up with 750 body "new" hole that is created by drilling a channel between them. That is why you see I used the 850 base plate gasket to mark and drill the holes into 750 body. Good luck with yours!👍

@@djrowe10 thanks Dj My main concern is when the fuel hits the gasket on its way to the new home in the main body Does it soak the gasket Thanks Bluey

​@@TheBigstratNo effects on gasket. It has air going through the circuit and not gas. You could put small amounts of epoxy or jb weld into old hole if wanted.

Good luck! 👍

These videos are for friends and family. Some are my personal cars. I don't usually make videos with customer cars, engines, or transmissions for their privacy. I have my calendar full with builds beyond 2025. After that should be more open to work as covid19 slowed last 3 years of everyone's builds. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!👍

When your engine has more then stock type components many things can effect situations like yours. Can it help? Yes, but start with just doing all of the butterflies small then see if that helps at all. Then go up in hole sizes until best results. One main factor is having a choke horn or not. If you have a choke horn it will need more air flow. I think you should also change jet sizes too and try to get an AFR gauge to help you dial in your tune better. Good luck with your project! 👍

@@djrowe10 awesome, this morning is my first test drive I appreciate the info! I definitely need to get an AFR gauge. Appreciate the reply

I hope your ride is doing awesome and the AFR gauge has helped dial in the tune! 👍

Thank you 👍

Most engine builder's rebuild someone's engine once in it's life span and the extra time and sealant goes a long way to keep out leaks over the decades. $25 for a pan gasket is cheap compared to my $185 Cometic MLS head gaskets we change out multiple times during the racing season. Oil pans get dropped and banged up too easily and I find the sealant ensures all of the surface is properly covered. Some of the best engine builders even coat their head gaskets when the manufacturers say it's not necessary...so, to each is their own method of success. Good luck with your project! 👍