The car looks fabulous in the red a beautiful place what part of UK are you in I recently got a water pipe the steel pipe from euro sports for our x 19 it has a small leak best wishes from west cork in the south of Ireland near Bantry

Get yerself an oil drain valve instead of getting yer hands and driveway oily

Nice video. Have you ever heard of a fan to cool the carburettor?? 🤷

The wiring looks amateur

I still love these cars, I had an 81 model in silver and I might buy another now I'm 60!

Nice

David great video and very helpful and informative. I just took my very old and dirty Weber 32/34 DMTL of my 1988 defender and stupidly didn’t take note of the yet orders. Do you mind sharing what the manual suggests they should be. I’d love to try them in your order vs manual and see which works best for me

Nb. Even Cornwall has the odd heavy rain stotm.

I believe the mesh is a potentisl disaster re rain

What abour heavy rain soaking all the electrics in the engine compartment through your mesh - warning my old one toke sown on the oustide lane of a motorway in heavy rain soaking. New buyer may regard this as ruined and dangerous and potentially costly re prompoting rust

Another sauce for you. Take your bottle of tomato sauce and put a shot of Worcestershire sauce in it. As used by the CWA for their famous steak sandwiches

Weber not Webber Are we smart enough to play carburetor games ?

Great accent, David! :)

I prefer the X1/9

For sure, from L to R, or R to L, you should find: s-P-P-s (s secondary, P Primary)

Nice of you to say hello to Reg but I don't think he can hear you anymore. You might have to get a psychic to put you in communication with him!

Hi Dave thanx for the info i have a 1300 Kent motor and a 32/36 downdraght Weber similar to yours i would like to know the jetting sizes if you can please seeing you did not state what size engine you have i am in South Africa and would appreciate your help Thanx Louis

Hi David, I saw discussion about this and the theory is the fuel evaporators from the carb. There is a carb cooling fan and this need to be in good order to keep the carb cool and prevent the evaporation. Regards.

Should your electric fuel pump not ensure the carb has a full fuel chamber ?

Forgot to say, the video is at 90degrees!

I tried a non return valve inbetween the tank and the pump with the same idea. hasn't made any difference, unless someone has a better experience?

I appreciate your videos. I had an '82 that looked almost exactly like yours. I truly miss that car. They're so totally overpriced now that I'll have to be content with my memories.

Really like your quiet videos. Where is located this nice spot? The lateral air inlets allow the air to come into the engine bay (when the car is moving of course) Did you paint the engine hood? I find this very successful, it highlights the profile line of the car and reduces the “bulge” appearance.

What a beautiful place greetings from west cork in Ireland and we have had a lot of rain I have the steel water pipe in engine on our x19 to replace it's rust Ty so hopefully get it done sy it's my sister car great that you are out mind your self and great information on your videos

Some lovely weather we're having today, glad to see you out and about, best thing to do is to keep moving. As for the header tank I would personally use a tiny blob of Holts gun gum exhaust paste and see if that does the trick, just an idea. Cheers from Staffordshire

I had many of this problems too and changed from carburetor to SPI. Best decision ever !!! I think it is a „PIERBURG“ fuel pump. Regards from Germany

Interesting mods I replaced my expansion tank With a jag one i believe .I wish I still had it sold it 20yrs ago.Fun car .

I noticed the nearside headlight doesn't park in the open position it starts to close before it stops. Try adjusting the fundamental angle on the motor driveshaft spline, slacken the bump stop, adjust the turnbuckle and bump stop together to remove any freeplay.

Hello David, nice to hear again from you, able to seat down in the car :-) Concerning the carburetor fan, I agree, it can be removed, less weight, less electric consomption on the battery... The K&N filter box is nice compared to the original black round box BUT it sucks very hot air, being just above the exhaust manifold. This is the advantage of the original air box horn, getting fresher air from the left of the engine bay (cool air contains more oxygen than warm air, better for the motor). You can even add a duct from the top of the horn to the lateral left inlet to suck outside ambient air (usually 15 °C difference between motor bay and ambient air ... given 2 or 3 % additional power to the motor, theoritically)

Hi David, do you have any more details about the parts required for the electronic ignition conversion? I'm guessing its a S178 distributor because it has a vacuum line. what Hall effect trigger did you use? Thanks Jim

All the best from France. The x1/9 is so low that the 6 week-end are perhaps a little bit optimistic? Hope you can seat mid-feb anyway!

All the best with a speedy recovery from Australia. 🇦🇺

You are a trooper David we know you will be right as rain in no time, you have my deepest sympathies. Also wishing you a happy new year, onwards and upwards!

Heal well, David! Life has a way of interrupting our plans. Pleased to know you have received great care dealing with this serious interruption.

Ni David. Thanks. Csn you trll me what petrol you can use. I had ome 20 years ago and I cwnt remember. I would kike to buy snother red one. Was my favourite car lovely to drive in the summer around Cotnwall. Allthe best. Cheers super car

Lovely to see a good x-19 cheers p

I also had an X1/9 for years. A fantastic car. Lovely with an open roof. Too bad I no longer have a car because of my age, 87. Greetings from Holland.

Very interesting as my sister has one and yes I found the carb had problems not to bad now I cleaned it I also got a electronic ing but have not put it on yet I got it from UK it's a unit that goes in instead of points you video has been very informative thanks Stephen for Ireland and they area rare car now but why going well a joy but can get sloppy at times

Just install a switch on the battery, which doesn’t decrease anymore. My car always starts at the first try then.

Soulful

Not having the rubber spoon / lollipop vibration absorber must he nice. Mine has split in two and has been bolted together with a triangle of 3 M8 bolts and nylon stop nuts.

Haha all the best to you too David. Sound advice as always

i never really understood how fun the car was until i drove it, its an awesome car

This has to be the most tedious yet interesting branch line still in use. Long, slow but offers an interesting insight into Cornwall past. In the 70’s and 80’s the station was large in comparison and the trains lengthy. Have you any memories of this BR blue era at Newquay, David?

🎉 beautiful car 🎉

Beautiful car🎉

“…an X 1/9, with a cowboy hat on, and living the life here in Cornwall” 😂👍🏻 Cheers from Portland Oregon USA 🍻

David, great video and a happy reminder of my two x1/9s, a rough black 1500 'banger' while I was at university and some years later a lovely 4yr old Grand Finale (how time flies). I kept the Grand Finale for 11yrs and made quite a lot of improvements... A recent DVLA search shows it SORN, but it is still registered and so it might still exist, here's hoping...? 2m43s Nice view of the selector link piece. On some of the cars that single link piece is made up as two bits of steel that are joined by being bonded to opposite sides of a rubber bush (I think it is mean to reduce vibration and harshness). Similar story, the rubber goes soft and the bonding breaks down, giving too much free play and a very sloppy gear change. The motion of the gear lever is limited by the central tunnel. Eventually you get to the point where the motion of the gear-lever, doesn't translate to enough motion at the gearbox end, due to the soft connection. For my banger x1/9 I used to slam the lever to the right, hear it hit the tunnel and 60/40 I would / would not get 5th gear! I made up a new link with a universal joint, from an old 1/2" socket set, welded between two bits of steel flat bar. With the UJ there I could also get rid of the clearance bushing, that David is describing and tighten everything up. The result was very good, but it looked rough. The socket set UJ held up perfectly well in the time I had that car. The later Grand Finale gear selection was still fine, but as an upgrade I bought a stainless steel sealed UJ, from a well known motor-sport supplier and had a new link made by a skilled professional welder (much nicer looking than my first nasty prototype). Very crisp gear selection. Either way you can make a big improvement quite simply. If you have the solid link, as shown, look at the bushing and make sure the clearances are tight. If you have the bonded rubber take it off, stick one end in a vice and use a set of grips to bend and twist it, it ought to be very stiff, but if not that is a problem. NOTE: you cannot remove the bush and just bolt the link down tight. The engine / gearbox rocks and moves in the mountings, so there has to be some small flexibility between the selector rod and the gearbox input or something will bend or break. Hence the stepped clearance bush or, in my case, the UJ.

Very nice car

*I had 3 of these. Inside you feel like you're going 100 MPH while outside you're only doing 50.* No power steering or brakes and yet you don't need it. It handles like a go cart but with a suspension that keeps you from being punished for having fun. It doesn't need more horsepower, only more twisty roads.