If you don’t have a specific branded grinder that only takes that brand bits then I recommend the Aanraku Glass Grinder Bits - 3/4 inch “Twofers” : scoartglass.com/product/aanraku-glass-grinding-bit-3-4-inch-twofers-stained-glass-mosaic-supplies/. I have these and other sizes on my affiliate website. Thanks for watching and the question.

@@SCOARTGLASS Thanks I have been looking at those.

@@SCOARTGLASS I will definitely check out your link…thanks

It is a glass grinder cookie. You can buy through my website store. scoartglass.com/product/grinder-cookie/. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching and I should have another one coming out soon.

Thanks Rockhound. Excited about being back and getting back to creating.

lol! 😂. If you want to discuss how to best catch some real catfish go right ahead my friend. Thanks and hope you join the channel. discord.gg/YFF9XCAZ

Thank you very much! Hope you’re doing well!

+@carlalakins thank you.

Thanks for watching! I do have one of these now. Thanks.

I center the glass in the channel and solder at where the solder lines from the project meet the hobby came. This holds the hobby came in place. I also like to add a quick solder line along the front and back edge of the hobby came to fill in the tiny gaps that may form depending how well you form the hobby came to the projects edge. It adds strength in my opinion but is not required to do this. Some people super glue the hobby came on by running super glue along the glass project edge and then stick the hobby came on. Hope this helps and happy glassing.

That's the plan! After I finally got this studio setup, I ended up moving back to the U.S. for my job 2 months ago and finally in a new place. Putting finishing touches on the studio, again, and will be back making videos and live streams.

That's awesome! I appreciate that and hope to get more our soon.

Glad it was helpful!

I usually carry them on my website, an affiliate of amazon, but here is the link on amazon for the "Grinder Cookie". It saves your thumbs from little glass scratches! amzn.to/3OP4w3D. I had a pump in the bucket that pumps the water up to the grinder (amzn.to/3UIuF7U). I will be making a new video on a new pump system for the grinder later this spring. Setting up new studio now.

If you are comfortable with your cutting ability and can see the pattern lines clearly enough through the glass then try it out! It will save you some time. You will see a lot of experienced artists do this. I do it on simple patterns. But, remember to cut on the inside of the pattern line. Good luck and happy glassing!

Glad the video could help.

Thanks for watching and the question. I am not to familiar with Kristall grinders. I believe these are more available in Europe. Mine is a Diamond Tech Max 2 grinder and it has been a champ based on all the grinding I have done. It should be suitable for chinaware but I would use a a fine grit bit so not to cause too much dust and to test since chinaware (porcelain) is more dense than glass and then go from there. As far as when to replace, stops working or the motor seems to drag or has slowed down after you turn it on. Hope this helps.

Glad it was helpful!

It depends how you want to view it. Most textured glass is used on the "finished" side that most people view. If you want people outside to see it, then textured side out. If the piece is mainly for your enjoyment then textured side facing inside. Really the choice is up to you.

I mainly use the standard/regular grit (100 - 120). I find the course bit useful if you are working with heavily textured glass. Scores aren’t always consistent and glass sometimes has a mind of its own and doesn’t break where you want. This bit lets you quickly grind the excess off and doesn’t ruin you regular bit. Fine I don’t use but recon it might be good for glass beads or mosaic work? Thanks for the question and watching.

I score right next to the paper with my cutter. Normally I don’t have to do too much grinding. They are small pieces I break off with my grozing pliers. I leave enough space to get my cutter through and grab the glass with grozing pliers if I am not using my running pliers. Hope this helps and thanks for watching and the question.

No special tool used. Pattern sized to the circle size and I cut the pattern pieces to fit into space. Thanks for watching and the question.

You don’t have to, but I do it to seal it up and I think it gives it a more finished look. Only need to solder at joints and where ends come together. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and the question.

If you have a small gap and want to hang the piece between the window and the rollup blind than you can run clear fishing line-amzn.to/3YPdiT3 down from the ceiling above the window. If not, the other option is using either adhesive hooks-amzn.to/3KZ1mZn directly to the window or suction cups hooks-amzn.to/3sza61G but with clear tape over it for reinforcement or add the adhesive discs-amzn.to/47Mb4bd to your suction cup hooks. Depending on temperature & humidity, suction cups alone will eventually give way causing potential damage to your piece. Always reinforce the suction cups. Hope this helps.

Thanks. Fishing line is probably the best option.

You are so welcome!

I would use a window that is sunny and won’t be opened or closed that much. In the video it was a side of a double door that I rarely used and gets a lot of sun during the winter. Thanks for watching and the comment.

If your not changing coarse grit, in my opinion, no difference. I primarily keep the 3/4” on my grinder all the time as it is more versatile for smaller inner curves and shaping. To me, the only advantage for the 1” would be larger pieces of glass with minimal curves to get around the glass a little quicker or using it as a base to stack bits to reduce change outs. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.

Thank you for the comment.

You are so welcome! Thanks for watching.

Thank you.

Just saw this morning and thank you so much for being the 1K subscriber!

I would clean it well and run a copper scrub sponge you find in your kitchen sponge aisle over it and clean again. That will help in getting it black.

Yes you can. I have used it on a 12” round. I would ensure not to have too long of runs without an attachment point between the hobby came and a solder line.

May also think about a zinc edge for more rigidity. It will hold up better. Hobby came is softer.

I buy mine from amazon. It is Brass tubing. See affiliate link to Amazon. amzn.to/3JJwATL

Charmaine thanks for your comment. I struggled at first too. Check to make sure the ripple bit you have matches the contour of the shaft. Theses bits do come in handy with thick textured glass. I will see if I can get a video posted here soon on this topic per your request.

Yes it was. You don't have to do this, most just add the hobby came directly on not to waste solder. It is your preference. I like it to hold better and not pull away. Thanks for the question and watching the video.

Hopefully will be back up and releasing videos again soon. Appreciate you watching the videos and the comment.

Glad it was helpful!

Got my wish and live near the ocean 🌊 now.

You're welcome

Thank you so much! The wonderful couple I did this for enjoyed it very much.

If they will sit longer than a day or two then I would put them in a ziplock bag or clean the foil up before soldering so you get the oxidation off the copper foil. Restrip on my list.

@@SCOARTGLASS Thanks for answering so quickly. I appreciate it very much!

I am getting close and will make another video to decide on what to giveaway. I will take your suggestion into consideration and thank you for the comments and watching the videos. I really do appreciate it!

Thank you for the nice comments. Hinges can be tough when just starting but can be done. I will look into making a video on that.

@@SCOARTGLASS That would be great, thanks.

@@SCOARTGLASS Thank you 😊

@@SCOARTGLASS 😊😉

Thank you. Hope to do more beach and nautical themes in the future.

Thank you for watching. The client loved them. Hope to get back to doing more videos soon!