I.C.M. have some interesting kits, but some are just way over/ under engineered depending on your view point. Thanks for the handy tips.

I see what you did there.....😊 BTW - The Army Painter Drybrushes suck.

Interesting. I've built one a couple years ago, the review was published in the SAM magazine, and it was really easy kit to build. I've had no fit issues whatsoever. It only lacks a bit of detail that needs to be scratch built. So I am really surprised by your conclusion.

Excellent build of a difficult kit, however, Hanna Reitsch, was not a "bleached blonde" and she was severely injured in the crash of the V-1 , and in hospital for almost six months recovering, so it is unlikely she would have been casually standing next to the crash. Operation Crossbow was so " Hollywood inaccurate " However , overall an interesting diorama telling the story of a great individual.

very intresting. and awsom result.

Great product, thanks for doing what Tamiya doesnt - showing how to use it! I forgo the X20A and Flow Improver and use Mr. Levelling Thinner for amazing results!

I have never heard about this technique, so I did my own experiment. I used a scrap piece of styrene lap siding for n-scale. I primed it and then put down a piece of Tamiya tape and sprayed one side with clear gloss and the other side of the tape with satin gloss. I applied paint on both sides of the tape. I was pleasantly surprised that there was no bleeding on either side. I wish I had known this years ago. Thank you very much for this invaluable tip.

I love using this to make a clear flat by mixing it into Future thinned down with alcohol.

Awesome tip. Thanks friend.

Nice build out, and I definitely benefited from the video, primarily because more cars becoming do parts heavy it fan be frustrating I do like ICM kits. They have certainly expanded their kits to cover just about every thing you can imagine over land sea or air. I was surprised their packaging of the box was not up to their usual standards and the drivers didn't match. Still you have a vintage truck that displays very well. Thanks for sharing. What's coming up next?

THIS was the video I was looking for =) I've switched from Future to Gauzy and was looking into finding a flattening agent for it. I have tried Tamiya's own clear, flat, and semi flat clears, but they dont hold up under aggressive use of enamel/oil thinners (washes, dot filter work, etc.). I've accidentally gotten Tamiya/Gunze lacquer thinner on Gauzy and it didnt affect it. Ordering some X-21 and will run some tests. Thanks!

I brush paint my Tamiya paints as they lay down beautifully, well the flat paints do. I use the flat base when I need colors they don't offer in flat. Thanks for spreading the word for those that didn't know about this awesome product.

There after 4:30, that "front whatever it is" is an unditching channel/beam/ramp - at this point on the calendar I'm no longer sure what second word of the item's name is, last time I was in to military vehicles was 1990s. Some great looking figures in that little thing, Ahh, memories, the 2nd Tamiya model I ever built was their 1/35 edition of this way back around 1974. Its 2 guys were suitable for desert only. 📚📖Hey, a web find just now: See if you can find, issue 162, November 2014, Classic Military Vehicle magazine, looks to have a nice article about the vehicle. Aha, "Unditching Channel' is the part's proper name. Couple bits from article, Dingo was permanent 4WD, and quite fast on both raids and terrain. _(I meant _*_roads_*_ but yeah, guess it would be fast on raids too!)_ And the Germans were quite happy to use the ones left behind at Dunkirk. British Army used the type until the 1950s. Slightly modified copies were built by Ford in Canada, and in 1944 by Lancia. 😄Yes, actually, this was one of my favorite military vehicles when I was in to that.

How do I get this model? I want to buy one badly.

Superb!

Never heard of this before,

In this video you had equal parts of X 21 and your gloss paint, have you ever experimented dropping the ratio to try to get a semi gloss?

This old kit will still stand up to today's kits !

I've been building for 65+ years and this question has come and gone numerous times over the years. Masking was always an issue talked about and one thing was clear, work cleanly. poor surface prep, fuzzy edged old masking tape, using excessive amounts of paint from a rattle can, poor airbrush skills and paint mixing will be your downfall every time. Take your time and learn masking basic's and you won't need to pile on more paint. Yes I have tried this method and found it's just another layer of paint covering your surface details. Like all other model skills, practice, practice,....

cool video +1 Sub

As others have said, clear seems like extra work and layers, i was told many years ago, and have used may times with sucess to mask, then use the base coat to 'seal in the edge' before using the next layer and its always worked well.

I never considered it added a thickened layer haha.

DSPIAE shot them selves in the foot by not using a 1/8" shank ability in the tool. If they did they would sell like crazy.

Thanks. I was wondering what the proper mixing ratio was.

I use a Proxxon. True it's more expensive but it's smaller than a Dremel and uses a reostat control so you can adjust the speed from very slow to light speed. You do need to use a Proxxon transformer for the rotary tool to plug into. I really like it more than any other tool of this type I've ever tried.

For that price, I'd think about a Dremel which is going to be better unless the size different is critical to your use.

Nice quality tool, but over priced for what you get especially for building basic model gets, you don't need to do that much drilling. It would be useful for grinding and sanding in small places but there are no tools made for it. With the price of model kits, ill invest my 50 bucks in one of those. It just first have enough tools for the bucks.

This does not work . There is no end to the tips and tricks in making plastic scale models. And most of them do not really work.

A really great tip! I've been able to up my game a LOT through a better understanding of mediums. I can't wait to try this - funny you should mention orange. Certain colors have always had saturation problems for me - but Tamiya is very nice and their orange and yellow really show out! Thanks for another tool in my belt!

Cool effects 🖌

Cool

This question may be a little off topic but - Where do you get those little containers that you used in the video?

Nice!!🤔 I love getting 'Myths Busted/Resolved'!!! Question for a new myth..... do you need to clear coat an area that you apply decals on?? I deal with aircraft carriers and some of the decals are like the ones on the flight deck where helicopters could land.... it is a sparce decal but a Lot of film. 🤨 On a separate question: Do I gloss-/flat-coat before using a panel liner??🤨 Thanks for the current post.

Science.....

That was good timing! I'm building this kit right now, so I'll take that advice about painting the gun in sub assembles. Thanks for posting the video and I'm enjoying the content on the channel Dan

i've mixed XF-21 with Future Floor Polish to create a dull cote. Now that Future is gone, I've sourced a new acrylic gloss finish. It works

I don’t understand the initial question...there’s no reason to think you get no bleeding with the clear coat, you undoubtedly do...but it’s hidden/melts into the final clear coat that you apply over everything including your masked coat. And it does work. PS I like Alclad clear (not aqua) for this cause it sprays a nice thin, even wet layer.

Cool review 🎨🖌

Very good video. Now for my question - If you are using the "Clears" to seal the tape to stop or reduce bleed of the darker color to the lighter color couldn't you use the base color to seal and stop the bleeding?

Always love your videos, I'd appreciate it if you could make them a little more hands-on. (show us a clip of you putting on the chrome when you talk about it, and so on.) I'd really like to see how you make them in more detail. Cheers, and thanks for the great content!

A really useful video, thank you. Nicely to the point, no fake drama, and you pronounce Tamiya correctly so all is good!!

This was really helpful. I’ve been using X-21 for decades, but never knew to go 50/50! That explains why I usually ended up with more of a satin look LOL

Just discovered your channel and it is amazing, exactly what I have been looking for. From the 1950's up to 90's with a break for military and family I took a long sabbatical. Retired I wanted to re-enter the hobby. However it was a lot of Rip van Winkle waking up in this new era . Kits prices, increased scale too much detailing but most of all materials that did not exist when I was building. So far I have viewed many of your videos and I'm still going. In addition to these issues, there is only one hobby shop that is primarily RC, but starting to carry plastic models. Otherwise I am limited to the internet for kits and supplies. I am definitely subscribing and continuing to search existing videos - they are so precise and to the point. Perfect timing just as I am ready to start my first kits. Best tutor for my re-entry. Cheers and Happy modeling.

hazard paints O_o but they ar very very good ! if you spray a lot you need a mask and filtered booth. but the colors ar AAA.

Or you can add some baby powder to make glossy paint flat :)

Really nice work, great little videos. New sub for sure. Keep it going man.

First time seeing this March 6 2024….. I have this kit in the stash… Found a PHOTO ETCH made specifically for this kit… TAMIYA has quite a few 1/35 figure kits that are very compatible, can make a really nice INFANTRY ASSULT DIORAMA It’s nickname The little DOOR KNOCKER…. Your Vignette is nice, simple Perfect…. CHRIS 🇺🇸

SUperb vignette, cracking job!

I love your videos! Do you plan on making any timelapses or build vids?

Thanks for the tip. I've seen the X-21 but wasn't sure how to use it.