Thanks Ryan

Thanks Ryan

Thanks Ryan

thank you Ryan for this wonderful information about the gloves, Hdry gloves are looking so great. actually I am looking for the gloves which I can use for Himalayan expeditions. I go up to 6800 to 7000 mtrs. so, can you suggest me a good pair of gloves which I can use for some rope work, clipping carabiner, to use ice axe while summiting the peak. also it should work at around sub 0 to -10 at least. I'll be very grateful if you help. Thank you.

Since you showed a BD Gridlock, Black Diamond has an addendum to the instructions on that carabiner specifically that if you're using it with a grigri-type device you should put the device on the small side that's normally on the belay loop because there's a failure mode where the grigri gets stuck on the side opposite the gate if it's on the larger side of the carabiner.

Subbed 🎉

15:20 aww poor lil fella :)

Are the Scarpa 3/4 shank boots the Zodiac Techs?

Hair or something is 100% going to get sucked into the neox lmao

Not sure why you need a third attachment point other than for crossing knots / changeovers. Two ascenders is standard in caving. Also why don’t more climbers use a croll?

Omg ryan love your stuff but we dont have 30 min to dive thru unsorted stuff, please add timestamps or give the tldr beta

Hi Ryan, I know you're a big fan of the giga jul, have you ever tried the Alpine Up? Which would kind of be the mix between a grigri and a autolock tube device, with all the benefits (two ropes, guide mode etc). If not, any reason why not, or just not the time? Would it be something you'd consider trying? I've heard really good thing about it, want to try it myself ^^

thanks for the refresher. Heading to rainier tomorrow .

Puzzled why you would continually need to break in new devices. Since you carry multiple devices, why not use one broken-in guide-mode device forever ? As far as I can tell, guide mode doesn't wear out anything that you wouldn't want worn for that use. It feels wasteful to keep breaking in new devices, as that limits their usefulness for other things like lead belaying. One explanation I can imagine is your ropes are too thin to comfortably rappel in low-friction mode, so you have to wear out *something*. But if that's the case, why not use cheaper non-guide-mode devices for rappelling ?

I just got the Mammut one too since my local sandstone shreds gear. Using the grivel plume HMS twingate has low friction belaying in guide mode (saving my shoulders and elbows which hurt every season) although I rap with the edelrid bulletproof to not kill the little plume.

Have you tried turning the devices around to reduce friction? E.g. the GigaJul has way less friction when turned around in manual mode and it's the same for my ATC from BD.

You should check out the Beal Air Force 3. It's a guide style tube device and it has the V-shape in the front and back of the rope slots. This is to prevent sharp edges from forming when the rope wears it down. I really like it.

The anti pannic on the grigri+ is in my opinion more usefull for rappels. Its also on the petzl I.D. It' not uncommon for people to yank the lever, start to panic, and keeping the lever in the open position. With catastrofic results. The grigri is one of those devices you better let go of when panicking while rapelling (but that is counterintuitive) The + elimnates that proplem.

Hey Ryan, thank you for the nice overview! Have you heard about the new Edelrid Nano Jul? It's made of stainless steel and has quiet grabby teeth, what I prefer for my half ropes. Could be worth for you to check out, as I think it's gonna hold a long time. Cheers from Switzerland, Andi

I really like these comparison video's. I helps out making new gear choices.

Beal makes a guide mode tuber that has grooves on both sides. One with teeth, one without teeth. That way you avoid the sharp edge from the rope eating the back side of the tuber on rappels.

My first grigri was a plus and I really dislike it as 1) the settings is not really useful. Lock it in Lead mode and you are good to go for either. Second the « anti panic » mode is really annoying as it happens too often when there is no panic going on. I ended up buying the newer « non + » grigri which has all the worthwhile improvements (steel reinforcement new cam shape) but none of the gadgety bits. I have to say I am eager to try the neox.

The giga jul is up to 10.0 mm ropes. Good luck with belay from above with a 10 mm rope. Even 9.5 mm single ropes aren't fun with this thing in belay from above.

Let the history lessons begin! I love it.

Adding to the rope range rant: the thin side of the spec usually is for double ropes not single. You have to really look up for that information if you want to know the thinnest single rope you should be belaying with (from below). The reverso if I recall correctly takes 8.5mm while the atc guide perhaps 8.7mm

You are a huge help, I love your videos. You are providing answers and detail to things I haven’t seen in books or covered by other channels. Every time time I see a new video I get excited because I know I am going to walk away with a better understanding of something!

If you use each ATC as a passive pro, you can protect a whole pitch with them lol, then have extra for belaying

What's the demo rope in this video Ryan?

Love the video and look forward to your neox review, but it sounds like you like it. I really enjoyed using it but so far everyone else that I know who has tried it was not a huge fan because they found it harder/ awkward to use the decaming technique from the grigri. I tend to just floss the rope through and try to avoid decaming so it worked great for me. 2 nitpicking points, petzl actually recommends using the small side of the Am'D for the grigri, it is what almost all of their instructions show except some old ones; also there are no ball bearings inside the neox, there is a pawl that catches once it is pushed up. There is a petzle video that shows the mechanism called "Petzl NEOX - Experience the Difference".

Regarding the block on the cam plate of current grigris, if excessive force is applied to the brake strand and the nose dips down too low the rope can pass under the block. You lose all braking if this happens. It takes a lot of force, but this is why you should never ascend the brake strand of a rope which someone is rappelling with a grigri, probably shouldn’t even fireman belay a grigri.

I know that hand! It was in the Fall of 1973 Bulova Watch Catalog

Thanks for making these Ryan!

Ryan, thanks for making this video great detailed information and history of the gri gri.

The small knob which actually pinches the rope at the Neox appears fragile compared to the construction in the older versions of the Grigri. Hopefully this never cracks and breaks.

I like the grigri2 insted of the grigri plus because when i am lovering from above and i have a ridirect carabiner the grigri plus is going to the antipanick mode and with the neox you can not belay from above

My original GriGri is still in great shape. Bought it second hand, barely used. I use it exclusively inside on fat gym ropes. Since it only sees indoor ropes, there is minimal wear on it. No reason to retire it. That said, the neox works even better on beefy gym ropes. I do have a couple issues with operation of the neox but I've only had it for a little bit so it may just be a user (me) technique error.

Good video, thanks for presenting options with pros and cons :)

I love hexes for my beginner trad rack. 6 cams, nuts, and hexes. Able to get up many routes safely!

Some quibbles with the details: I believe the entire group of links below the bolts should be bypassed, in favor of direct clips to the bolts, both with locking biners, laying above the fixed chains, to minimize risks of unknown fixed links. That way the links can be independently used to rappel, unaffected by the belay setup, either for this team or another that may arrive. I also think the girth hitch master point system (with magic X twist) allows more equalization adjustment, and is cleaner and less confusing than the huge quad knot as used here. Not wrong, but more bulky.

Thanks for this! I've been climbing since 1994 and have never rope soloed yet! Im going all next week!

Lighter = faster = safer

If youcant place a spring loaded cam your dumb. F these videos grab a rack and practice in the boulders

What’s the difference between the G2SM and the G2 Evo ? Do they fit the same ?

Great video, this definetly answer the rest of the questions I had

The idea of stripping the sheath (8:05) raises a question outside of fixed-point-belays. E.g. with a grigri off the belay loop. If the belayer is attached to the anchor with a PAS, the grigri probably sees the same force as in your colleague's test. If the belayer is clove-hitched in with the rope, the force is reduced, but would the clove hitch desheath the rope ? I'm guessing a new rope in perfect condition is fine either way. But with worn ropes, it's not clear which anchor attachment would be safer.

Great video, again! But there’s one thing I’m not sure you explained right: The curve of a shaft doesn’t make it „T“ rated, it is its strength and its ability (same with the pick) to be cranked on in mixed or drytooling situations. At least that’s what I read about in a DAV (German alpine club) publication. Furthermore I’d like to add that the best ice tools, the same as the best (rock climbing)-shoes, are those you’re familiar with. There’s no use in the fanciest new stuff if you don’t know how it’s going to react to the input you give in or how they feel when they’re just about to give way. And just to add: I was very happy seeing the cobras. I bought a pair second hand for getting into ice climbing, the older version with the orange metal shaft. Just to find out out afterwards that they’re exactly what I might need for what I have in mind for the next years. The are accompanied by a grivel air tech evo, the predecessor of the sum‘tecs spot. But does anyone know, wether the picks of the newer version will fit the older versions head? (Will ask this on Reddit too, drives me a bit nuts)

i have a question, with what clothes do you sleep inside the bag? assuming the temperature is on par with the confort rating. thanks

Great video! Exactly what I was looking for!

I am aurprised you didn't mention Quarks, is that necause your Conras fit the same niche?

great video, thank you!! v much appreciated how you break down the tool pairings by climb and season too. I know you mentioned dry tool cragging can get more specific but out of your quiver do you think the reactors (or nomics) would be the best fit?