Thank you for your videos. How can I get the 3 pin shock absorbers wrench tool?
@17Daanee8 күн бұрын
Ok., its all O.K., thank you. But... Just a crucially important step is missing: How to unplug the entire roofl electric cable harness? Unless this step you won't be able to remove the liner. Can you help with this please?
@edgbostonnorth716725 күн бұрын
WOW lots of info...! Thanks for the info, especially to replace the "bolts and nuts" with NEW ones. Regarding the "Ball joint top nut", it looks impossible to get a torque wrench in there to properly torque it. Would someone remove the Axle nut and swing the whole assembly out and away? By doing that, the top of the ball joint could be exposed to properly to torque it! Would the Axle nut then need to be replace with a new one once its removed? Too tight of a torque on the Ball joint will cause premature wear and too loose could be dangerous. I prefer NOT to guess.... PS , on the ball joint torque. You tightened it to 52 Ft Lbs then added an angle degree torque does angle degree torque also apply to the top nut too? (( What was the angle degree to turn the nut additionally. The audio on that I wasn't able to hear it well ...thank you . My vehicle is a 2007 E350 4Matic Sport with the same Ball Joint with that " pin "... Thank you, any info or tips, would be most appreciated from anyone. Thank you
@fabtube717729 күн бұрын
Amazing how you can change the control arms on little to no space. How long did it take for you?
@Belal492Ай бұрын
Hallo. I have a question. I want to install Amg E55 brakes on my E500 4matic. How can I install them and what should I replace?
@bigqwertycatАй бұрын
I have not done that modification and do not know. Good luck.
@charlesbartholomew2910Ай бұрын
What did your further troubleshooting uncover as the culprit?
@SkampdogАй бұрын
Thank you so much! I’m beginning my 2097 wagon airmatic rear shock replacement and you have greatly boosted my confidence!
@MegaSkypeman2 ай бұрын
Hi guys! Any idea what is the part number for the bushings themselves?
@bigqwertycat2 ай бұрын
Mercedes does not sell the bushings only. As explained in the video, the bushings come installed on the bar. Part number listed in the video.
@michaelflint25422 ай бұрын
You have saved my ass. I don’t usually comment but teaching me about the spreader tool all I can say is thank you, you have helped me more than you could imagine
@lukerobertswr51892 ай бұрын
How well does the manifold spreader work? I'm on day 2 of this project and just got control arm back from the shop, clearance is not even remotely close.
@armanpetrosyan83103 ай бұрын
Could you plese provide the link of amazon?
@robertehlers43303 ай бұрын
Ugh i put led bulbs and snapped the rear ribbon cable and brike connector now 100 wire and have to take off headliner
@TheDIYGuy_BackyardGardener3 ай бұрын
Hi @ghdh! Do you install the o-ring, red ring, and the cap with the end of the vacuum line as shown on the video or you install o them seperately? Thanks!
@bigqwertycat3 ай бұрын
I installed the oring into the manifold opening against the back wall. then the red ring. And finally the black cap. The line gets pushed in with nothing on the line.
@stanstan53943 ай бұрын
Schleifring defekt
@bigqwertycat3 ай бұрын
Shiza
@Spidepig094 ай бұрын
Why didn’t it fit if it did before?
@bigqwertycat4 ай бұрын
When I first tried to remove it it was very stuck in there and took a lot of effort to pull out. I had to use a pry bar to help move it out and spread open the flanges. The reason this part closes in is if you run into a curb when pulling into parking and that'll be that metal backwards. You can see the scrape marks where it's ran into curbs
@mohnjollo69264 ай бұрын
Yeah all 211 4matics/ 4matic from this gen are like this.
@Innova_19795 ай бұрын
That looks so much easier than the drivers side engine mount on an E350 W211.. That was like 45 mins of 1/8-1/4 turns for the top bolt. Passenger side was easy peasy.. Thanks for documenting!
@leroyarellano47435 ай бұрын
What is the part number for the screws
@bigqwertycat5 ай бұрын
000912008204 Can be ordered from the dealer or ECStuning also has the part. You can try using regular hex head bolts to get better access. My only concern would be dissimilar metal corrosion. So make sure to use a bolt of the same material if you go that route.
@leroyarellano47435 ай бұрын
@@bigqwertycat okay thank you boss!
@leroyarellano47435 ай бұрын
@@bigqwertycatalso one more quick question would u know where to get the sway bar bushing from I’ve been having a hard time finding one I should say the bottom piece of the bracket I had a problem with a dam pot hole an broke off the whole sway bar also the sway bar is good but the whole brackets and bushings broke
@Q.Lawrence4 ай бұрын
@@leroyarellano4743I have the same problem. It's frustrating that I can't just find all of the parts to replace it.
@Marhoscars5 ай бұрын
How many stars?
@bigqwertycat5 ай бұрын
1000 plus meteor
@e55_wagon5 ай бұрын
Thanks man, doing mine tonight
@bigqwertycat5 ай бұрын
Let me know if you run into any problems or have questions.
@MbaekweCabana5 ай бұрын
Thanks for the tutorial. Nicely done! I noticed that you have an Android stereo installed too. Please share the contact of the seller (Website or email). Thank you.
@mzee5533Ай бұрын
Amazon is the contact
@abubakarhassan69265 ай бұрын
You're very right about the left hand upper arm installation design due to that back nut near the SAM. Why didnt they do it like honda or toyota and weld the nut to the frame? That way you only concern yourself with the bolt inside the arm. Another reason why mechanics hate engineers
@ZimtMilchreis5 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video here a hint.you dont need the special tool to loose the strud on top. Just spray with oil then give a few bangs with long big screwdriver and hammer.And you dont have to let the air out at the airspring.just use another carjack and support the spring.my.change did cost me 70 bucks and 2 hrs work.
@johnhall44275 ай бұрын
Another really helpful tip i did. I found that putting my jack underneath that hanging radiator support frame piece and gently lifting it upwards just a tad helped give me some clearance in getting out that front swaybar bracket upper bolt. It will flex slightly. Just go easy. Dont want to crack the plastic radiator bottom which rests inside that frame piece.
@johnhall44275 ай бұрын
Where did you purchase the new sway bar from? How much was it? Thanx 😊
@bigqwertycat5 ай бұрын
From the mercedes dealership. I can't remember exact price, but I think it was between $100-300.
@drews69035 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video. Where were you able to purchase the screw-on tip for the sealant? Looks like sealant tube doesn't come with it.
@bigqwertycat5 ай бұрын
The screw on top should come with the sealant. At least it did with me when I ordered it from FCPEURO.COM.
@bigqwertycat5 ай бұрын
I just ordered another tube of sealant from FCP EURO and it did come with the application tip. I'll be doing the rear main seal in my S55 soon.
@drews69035 ай бұрын
My tube arrived today. It's like 50% smaller than the caulking tube applicators found at Home Depot. Do you know where one can be found? Thanks @@bigqwertycat
@MrMrtvolka6 ай бұрын
I was just wondering if there is a diference between regular w211 wagon shocks and airmatic shocks? Because I have two, one with airmatic and one with only leveling kit but if I would take the wheel off, you would not spot the diference between those two. Both have the same connectors, they both look the same. If you know the answer, I would much appreciate it, thanks
@bigqwertycat6 ай бұрын
Call a mercedes dealership, provide them your Vin number and they'll tell you what the part numbers are.
@lukerobertswr51897 ай бұрын
Think its possible to change out the lower control arm strut bushing and the spindle ball joint without removing the entire lower control arm? My strut bushing is in bad shape but my control arm bushings don't look too bad
@bigqwertycat5 ай бұрын
I wouldn't recommend it. But I have read of others doing it.
@liov67267 ай бұрын
Is it the same with CLK W209?
@bigqwertycat7 ай бұрын
Try it and make a video.
@IanMartinez-wg2lm7 ай бұрын
Hey do you know who Anderson is Michael Anderson
@pearlmossberg8 ай бұрын
I was just quoted $1900 to replace those rear struts.
@bigqwertycat8 ай бұрын
They're charging you the mercedes tax. Where are you located?
@SamAbraham8 ай бұрын
Thanks so much for your comment on the FCP post! I was about to buy the $140 MB sealant applicator after stalling, looking for other solutions. So glad I stumbled upon your comment haha, preparing to pull the M156 out of my ML63 and reseal the bedplate
@bigqwertycat8 ай бұрын
Glad I could help!
@user-ej3gz7jh7w8 ай бұрын
Hello nice and helpful explanations - really good how-to-do vid. Could you name or even a link or the diagnostic tool software to release the air pressure.
@bigqwertycat8 ай бұрын
Here's a link to the scan tool I use. a.co/d/bkywkdC
@thelongranger559 ай бұрын
Why the fuck did I not try to put it in a regular caulk gun … thanks !
@havcxxx9 ай бұрын
GREAT VIDEO!! and articulation - unless this doesn't work for you because you live in the RUST BELT. Here's what worked for me and saved TONS of Time. 2 hours TOPS. FIRST off SWAP OUT the 4 REAR SWAY BAR BRACKET mounting bolts with regular head bolts so you can use a box wrench or open end wrench to tighten them down - there is plenty of clearance to tighten them down. Visit your favorite fastener supply store to get the correct thread pitch and length - bring the rear bracket with you. Forget the special tools and tricks - I did this job this past weekend in an hour. YOU NEED TO APPLY SOME BRUTE FORCE using a grinder. You won't be able to get leverage enough to remove these bolts unless they were freshly installed - the steel bolts are rusted into the aluminum mounting brackets - save time and get a grinder. STEP #1 Take the front lower bumper pan plastics off ( #8 nut socket head) revealing the front sway bar brackets and bolts giving you tons of access space. Remove what you can with the allen socket or apply the use of vise grips. you will discover after removing the front mounting bolts either the bracket is totally rotted as the sway bar will just drop revealing the rear bracket face - you can now see the threaded ends of the rear bracket bolts embedded in the rear bracket from the front of the car. STEP #2 Next up grab a grinder and cut the rear bracket free of the rear mounting bolts - cut across the mounting holes revealing the steal bolts and this breaks the casing essentially crumbling the rear aluminum sway bar bracket. AGAIN - this is all done from the front of the car after removing the sway bar and front bracket. Use a spotter to watch your grinder as not to cut into the steel sway bar mount on car, ONLY CUT THE REAR ALUMINUM BRACKET (wear a mask and eye protection.) use a hammer to knock out the grinded and cut pieces of the REAR BRACKET - they will just flake off and reveal the rear sway bar mounting bolts. This sounds crude but this rear aluminum sway bar mount requires this barbaric method to save you time. Step #3 - On re-assembly install all front brackets and bolts on front sway bar first on the ground, tighten then install the rear bolts to the rear last while holding the bar up into position using a helper. ( If you want to use OEM rear mounting bolts that's fine but not much leverage for tightening that's why I switched to regular bolt heads for rear mounting bracket and used a box/open end wrench to tighten down) trust me on this one assemble and align rear bolts into sway bar assembly last then tighten all 4 rear mounts to the car sway bar mounting frame as best you can. NOTE -The angle at which to install the front bolts into the brackets require an angle of approach that could cause you to ruin aluminum threads. So assemble and tighten front brackets on bar first on the shop floor then hold it up to the mounting position on the car and align and loosely thread in the rear bolts to rear bracket, when all 4 are loosely attached - begin to tighten them down drawing the entire assembly into position. YOU WILL NEED TO GRIND Off a very small bump section of the lower front rad mount - to allow clearance of the front top sway bar bracket bolt - This will ease in reassembly and alignment when holding the bar up to car to position to thread in the 4 rear bracket mounting bolts. Good Luck and be safe PLEASE USE SAFETY GLASSES AND DUST MASK - aluminum DUST is NOT GOOD. work in ventilated area and watch for sparks - have water or fire extinguisher near by. Thank me later!!
@Q.Lawrence5 ай бұрын
This is what I need to do. Thank you!
@jw85605 ай бұрын
@@Q.Lawrencegood luck! Take your time - you'll be done in no time.
@jw85605 ай бұрын
@@Q.Lawrencealso apply thread locker on all 4 rear bolts on sway bar mounting bracket
@lgorkrjukov13489 ай бұрын
GOOD job !
@jsmaldokj9 ай бұрын
It would be good if you atleast gave the size of the tool
@honkeydong10 ай бұрын
thanks for including part numbers. greatly appreciated!
@damsmoneymaker739710 ай бұрын
Hello from France , i would like to say you many thanks for your tuto , very good job 🙂 You will help a lot of people with your video !
@mrmatthewpaul10 ай бұрын
If I didn't thank you already let me thank you now. I hope you next series will be on M113K engine swap... 😊
@interessiertesalzgurke40410 ай бұрын
Thanks man, I have the same Problem on my E class and I am glad i found a good tutorial on it
@J4Y89 Жыл бұрын
My car's nearly 180 degress backlash lol. Is it knackered?
@jendo8877 Жыл бұрын
Looks a bit sketchy be careful
@user-yr7ft1uu9g Жыл бұрын
Use google. Before using!
@briangardner7664 Жыл бұрын
That's because you have the set wrong
@ajdaly5634 Жыл бұрын
Very thorough and systematic. Well explained and great camera angles. Really, a great instructional video. You helped me plan for it correctly. Thank you very much for your time and efforts. God bless
@custeroo4539 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for showing everything BUT what the duck your doing 🐥
@smilez7696 Жыл бұрын
Yes. Majority of cars are like that
@codydavis9882 Жыл бұрын
No lol
@fanandasmith5040 Жыл бұрын
What was the name of the tool you used to remove strut