Update on the how to?😊

This is the reminds me of the pizza surface area counter intuitiveness. Going from a small 10 inch to medium 12 inch pizza is only 20% more width, but the surface area jumps from 78.5sq to 113sq, 44% more pizza! (Since area grows exponentially with increase in radius)

Thanks for sharing this, at the moments im trying my own glazes, a hug from Chile.

I’m really enjoying your series on slip casting and mold making! I’m super novice when it comes to 3D printing. What machine do you use/recommend? Thank you and keep up the good work!

Okay so the main thing I was looking for was the “math that I won’t bore you with” haha! I’m struggling to find the weight of the raw vs liquid. Is it just specific gravity?

Keep it simple. Yes you are adding air when power mixing - so don't power mix - mix by hand gently.

What kind of compressor is this? The one we have is super loud and too strong when I tried it. unfortunately I don’t have a gauge to change the pressure

thanks great video

That was fun working through your problem with you 😁

1) Are you affiliated with Shape Cast? 2) I think you're assuming that the wall thickness is a uniform offset from the wall of your form. Is that the case? Are the pots thinner at the lip than they are at the base?

Thanks for the interesting videos. Tried signing up for shapecast, but don't see how to access it. I've been designing my plaster molds using fusion 360, and am looking at using openscad to more easily change design parameters.

Hi, is it possible to create a cast for hallow s shape?

This is exactly what I was looking for… thanks so much 😊 only problem is how to define “awhile longer” “for a bit” not sure how long 1. Between layers (I think I read in a comment one hour?!) and also 2. How long do you leave when you fill completely? Thanks so much!

Maybe make the holes when it is leather dry, or even when it is totally dry. Alternatively you could drill them after a bisque fire

You can get silicone jacketed electrical wire, which is for heat resistant applications. It's pretty cheap, comes in a variety of diameters, and you could just cut a bunch of whatever length you needed. It's flexible, which is not ideal, but at a larger diameter like you have, that probably wouldn't be a problem.

put a sacrificial material on the opposite side you are drilling from to support the clay as you drill through should stop the break out

Im confused. I keep hearing people mention "slip" but what is slip? How do you make it? And can the same be accomplished with cement? I've been using fast set all crete for my projects and have attempted "slips" many times but it cures too quickly and becomes clay like even after 5 minutes. So there is no pouring out the excess

What if, instead of drilling holes in the plaster mold, you cast the plaster mold in such a way that the holes are cone-shaped, with the inner diameter being slightly smaller than the outer diameter?Wax or silicone pins can be cast with the same angle at the cone tip, and a length such that they protrude a sufficient distance on the outside of the mold to be conveniently removed from the hole, and on the inside, they protrude 2-3 mm above the wall thickness of the casted slip. The cone-shaped holes will allow for a complete seal, preventing the slip from entering and also allowing light rays to travel parallel to the hole walls.

I think casting your own silicone pins would be trivial - you could design a "head" that prevented it from slipping too deep into the hole. A single 3d- printed mold could contain 10x10 pins and you could get 200 pins in 2 castings. Note that the silicone should probably be quite soft and viscous so that you could fill your mold without air bubbles. I could whip up a demo model if you're interested.

Why not try inflating a rubber balloon inside the mold to push the wax pins out enough so they can be easily removed from the outside? Additionally, this could help smooth out the internal surface.

Press them out from the inside so you can pull from the outside

Why pull the wax pins at all? Just melt them or let them burn off?

How about 2.85mm diameter 3D printer filament? OD is well controlled + cheap, and plastics like PETG should be fairly smooth surfaced and hydrophobic. Exoeriment with 1.75mm filament first and see where you end up.

I know this suggestion is a little more labour intensive, but what about trying the wax holes in a smaller size, then drilling? Usually drills only have tear-out/break-out when their web can't fit through the material at the centre (most drill bits don't cut at the centre, and even those with a cutting web the centre spins so slowly that the cutting speed is effectively 0rpm), this is why it's common to first drill a smaller pilot hole in tear-out/break-out-prone woods and metals, usually just a little larger than the final drill bits web dimensions.

Would a quick blast of air before pulling the pins remove the extra artifacts?

Standard 3D printer bowden tubes are 4mm OD PTFE, maybe you could find an appropriately sized screw (m2.5?) that would plug the hole and give it a head that would keep them from pulling through? Then put the printed outer mold for the plaster on to hold them in place rather than the tape?

This has been really interesting to watch you experiment! When you were trying to pull out the wax pins I thought that you could melt the end into a blob that would prevent the wax pin from going too far into the mould. Good luck with the further design :)

Kent, could you melt the wax and make custom pins to fit the holes that you can drill and make in the plaster?

Would pulsing your drill, rather than going full pelt, stop the dreaded vortices?

Really useful video thanks Kent.

I started with degassing the water first. Maybe it is because I used fresh tab water, but the amount of air(or chlorine?) that came out was enormous! I used my wife's toy for vibration and the best place to use it is the middle of the lid. At the walls it is much less effective. Now I'm waiting... will update soon. Update1: Wrong ratio🙄

هل يمكنك ذكر المواد الخاصة بالالوان الخاص بالكؤوس وادوات المطبخ

هل يمكنك ان تذكر المواد المستعملة مع ذكر مقادير الخلط

انني ممتنة لك على مجهودك الجميل سيدي هل يمكنك ان تعطيني مقدار خلطة الجص من ماء وجص لكي اتأكد ان القالب لا يتكسر اتناء الاستعمال

I watched this with the sound off and I really don't know what the guy was doing. I mean, I get the clay and stuff, but not the goal. I'm not complaining -- I decided to turn the sound off and I enjoyed watching, despite having no idea. Just thought it was funny.

It is the Frit that changes. The rest remains the same

Beautiful

Slip is authentic to pot making. Is not the poor man's glaze?

why not leave the pins longer? its still runny when you take them out.... not sure if this was in another video or not

What about pushing through than pulling out? So that the excess slip goes with the pin, than pulled back towards the hole and sticking? Only thing then is you need like a basket to collect all the pushed in pins at the end. This is entirely just a guess though.

Why not drill the holes after this step? Just by hand with the tiny 3mm drill. Now you know where the holes are, this will just take a minute.

You might try 1/8" or 3mm PTFE (Teflon) plastic rod and see if you can skip the wax entirely while getting the same hydrophobic effect. Otherwise, rain-x applied to smooth nails, dowels, etc. could be worth trying as long as it wouldn't foul any of the nearby surfaces.

Will using silicone pins and/or hydrophobic spray used to impregnate textiles be helpful?

Thank you for posting your progress

It might be worth 3d printing some dowels instead of using metal pins. The textured surface of the printed dowels might allow for the wax to better adhere to them.

i imagine that a wooden pin would work better due to water absorption

Today I am a ceramicist, but I used to work as a dental technician in a plastering plant. There are vacuum mixers for plaster, but they are certainly very expensive equipment and few prosthetic studios had them. It is important to sprinkle the plaster over all the water in smaller portions. Until you stir it, it doesn't start to set. it can stand there untouched for a few minutes. It then sinks and becomes easier to mix. When he gets involved, the bonding begins. I did it by hand, but with much smaller amounts of plaster... and I always poured it into the plaster using a prosthetic vibrator. It vibrates completely differently than yours. It has adjustable vibration intensity and a removable rubber on the counter for cleaning set plaster. I also always sprayed the model with an agent that removes surface tension, but this is probably mainly useful for complex forms with small details (like a tooth model). Thank you so much for sharing all your noledge. I hope to use it soon also❤

Heres my idea, hear me out: 3D model the nails and make a mold that contains enough for a plaster-mold's worth. have them all attached to a central block. Print the mold in ABS/PETG. Pour liquid beeswax into the 3D printed mold (wax should release). Pull out the beeswax cast and then you have wax replicas of the nails. Cut from the molded block and insert into your plaster mold. Cast. Success. My guess is it will reduce the buildup on the inside, but not resolve the search for perfect internal holes; if there is such a thing.

I like the idea of the wax plug through the mold wall. I think that you could push in the plugs from the outside so they would protrude farther than your wall thickness, and come time to de-mold, you could just push the plugs all the way through to the inside. It would be interesting to see the result of such a method on the inside surface... I wonder if the hydrophobia of the wax plug would create the opposite result as you found with the nails (a sink rather than a mound) The plugs could be solid wax, waxed candle wick, or some wood dowel soaked in molten wax. I'm not sure silicone spray wouldn't also soak into the adjacent plaster affecting its performance. There might be a source for wax rods for use in jewelry investment casting.

If your plastic container has a plastic label you can't remove , will that be an issue? It wouldn't seem so once the plastic was coated with wood soap.