I find the cms router fence quite annoying really. No micro adjustment, so its fit, test trial, loosen fence, adjust, tighten down, test trial again, etc and the fence has very short adjustment lengths available. No way i can route middle of wide boards, just edges or close to an edge only. The clear pressure clamp guard swings around and simply doesnt stay in the position i twist lock it at. When changing the bits, the large spanner should be bent to help enable it to fit easier under large router bits. Currently the flat spanner is awkward to use and sometimes can be nicking large router bit edges. Next, the of1400 under it upside down gets clogged and dust seems to prevent the ratchet mechanism from working properly. I have removed the Festool guards and replaced them with i think better ones.

These lessons are fantastic mate. Thank you

These are the most useful fusion 360 tutorials I have watched for woodworking by far. Pace is excellent, sometimes the steps to use a tool can go a little too fast for me but it's not hard to pause the video. After i learn all the stuff in this course i have to learn how to use fusion for cam. Thanks for these videos!

🤗 thank u...

Where can I get that instruction book?

I loved to spend Sunday afternoon watching ( in-between the Olympics). Excellent job. Thank you. I have a BOW extension fence added to my dewalt tablesaw with WT1 feed supports which gives additional feed support ( in feed and out feed) . It also has hold down support on out going wood to prevent kick back. In addition, I had not been able to adjust the supplied dewalt fence to be square to the table but was able to shim the BOW FENCE (which attaches to and improves the dewalt fence dramatically) to finally , finally correct the left upper fence tilt toward blade problem . This addition really improved my sawing, Do you ever wish you had one of the higher numbered Incra miter gauge’s like 1000SE OR 1000HD ? What did you add for out feed support or in feed support to your table ? 27:58 I have limited space , Did you make a any additional adaptions to your jig ? I may need to sand my saw miter slots as you did ., .thanks so much Jack trotter in state of Idaho, USA . Lol, I have metric and imperial hex tools out of necessity. Thanks a third time !!!

Really nice review, thanks for sharing!

Can't find in the United States.

Cen-tro-tec not centronic.

Update, my mk 3 clasp kit , July 2024 . When unpacked it appeared to be missing the thread tap. I checked the Bd site for the kit contents and discovered the drill bit also cuts the thread as well. The drill is supplied in a plastic container and it is not obvious that it has a dual function. Personally I have never seen such a bit before. A note in the kit to this effect or a revised Bd video would have been nice. G

I like the 36 hose but the problem is the adapter does not lock on to the 27 ports in the smaller tools. It will pull out if the hose is pulled on.

many thanks for your lovely videos always. I for sure will get this one, instead. can you please give your audience a suggestion on good quality CONFIRMAT SCREWS? I bought from eBay, was rubbish. bought from Screwfix not that good either. your reply will help many of us on here. many thanks in advance

Awesome content! Thank you. I recommend the Parf Guide system. Is infinity flexible, crazy accurate and precise, and able to do custom hole configurations - adding an exterior line of holes around the outside perimeter of the MFT for exterior dog placement for track guides, as an example.

I'm getting snipe on the leading end of my boards, & the adjustment instructions for the pressure rollers are pretty vague. I've tried to dial them in, without much success. Have you looked at or made any adjustment to them?

Many thanks for producing this tutorial series.

Brilliant 😊

Good video.

Good day, Mr Woodgrafter. This was a fantastic video. Please help. Im looking to buy this saw or the rutlands 255mm one. Which one do you recommend please. Thanks

You don't need the sub base, and there is no need to measure hole locations on the outer edge of the Incra base. Use the same holes that are used with the Benchdogs sub base to mark the hole locations to the Incra base, and drill through. You only need longer screws after that.

Good video and good to see a UK woodworker. Did keep on cringing every time you had hand near the blade with the batteries still connected. i would have preferred a better stop start button arrangement that prevented accidental starting and a bump stop in emergency. Does this version have the sawstop cartridge technology ? Look forward to checking out your videos. I do like the look of the festool kit, just a bit too pricey for ripping wood for garden projects etc

Hi . I have a issue when trying to create the joint it finds the centre of the drawer ( component 1 ) however on component 2 the cabinet base the only center point is the middle of the whole base . Fusion has not separated each compartment . I have tried everything and no luck . Thanks

It doesn’t seem like the miter bar under the drop panel is needed to be bang-on tight in the miter slot…since the miter bar is anchored to the other panel and the drop panel is just supporting the workpiece…(is that over-explaining? I think so…). BTW, I already had the “Build-It” system and just needed the center aluminum piece which I ordered from Incra separately…we’ll see how that works. I already had the Miter 1000HD, so in for a penny…

In that bag of bits and bobs…is one of those bobs your uncle…just curious…

Still trudging along! Thanks again for these courses I've learned a ton and even managed to crank out my very fist design for a 3D print from what you have taught. I'm not sure if it's just due to my settings or an updated version of F360, but in the step for the projection at @27:52 I was having an issue. I am finding it difficult to describe, but I'll try. The problem was that when projecting the dovetail from the right/front board the profile lines it projected onto the left/front board didn't touch the outer edge. It created an incomplete profile on that "front" side which meant I was unable to extrude it. To fix it I had to delete the previous "Offset Face" step from the timeline. Then the projection was perfect and I could extrude both sides. Afterwards I re-did the Offset Face command for that front edge on both the right and left boards at the same time. No idea if that makes any sense. Edit - and of course immediately after typing all that out I realize my issue was that I did not select the projection from the SKETCH of the dovetail (@27:34) and was instead selecting the edges of the actual (offset) body of the dovetail. I love making mistakes! Best way to learn.

Thank you for the nice review. I believe it can also accommodate a wooden dowel?

Why not put fence and protractor attached and line up the fence with two dog or more and lock that in?

How do you square everything up to the holes?

The UJK product wobbles when you use the centering pins. The Woodpeckers product with its bigger base may wobble, but not much, and this stability was evident in this comparison.

Great job. This is the first video I’ve watched that has actually sold me on Bessel clamps.

I've been following along so far, but finally hit my first snag and no amount of googling is getting me unstuck. For some reason whenever I set the dimension of the fillet (@21:34) to Stockthickness / 2 or 9mm the panel bodies themselves vanish and all I'm left with is a bullnose floating in space. I've rewatched it a dozen times and am doing everything exactly the same as the video. Anyone have any idea what is up? Edit - I played around with just changing it to various dimensions and found that anything over 6mm, which is Stockthickness / 3, would cause the panels to vanish. If I set it to Stockthickness / 3 (or 6mm) the bullnose works perfectly. I am not certain why it is doing this. Edit 2 - It turns out when I extruded the top half of my shelf I set the dimension to "Joinery / 2" and not "Stockthickness / 2". I did set the bottom half correctly though, so it was totaling 12mm in thickness instead of 18mm. Editing that extrude in the timeline and setting it to the correct parameter fixed things. I'm able to set the bullnose radius to "Stockthickness / 2" with no issues. 🥳

Your channel should be the official instruction manual for all their products. Many functions are simply too complex to be clearly explained on paper. This channel is the definitive missing link. Well done!

I'm not sure that your quote "this is 0.005° plus or minus" is correct. I've just checked the product page and as of June 2024 they are only claiming "the machined part is accurate within 5 microns and ensuring the angles are accurate within +-0.05 degrees". I think this may only be referring to the visible angle markings. I can't find them publicly making any guarantees about the physical angle accuracy of any of their squares. It may've been something that he mentioned to you in person, but it doesn't seem to be a claim they're making publicly.

Excellent video thanks

Hi, Great video, I was just wondering though on the guide hole size of the ruler. Does the Festool 5mm centering bit fit properly as apposed to the 4mm Benchdog centering bit it was designed for? Thanks

Something I would highly recommend for future videos and projects is to stop brushing your hand and fingers across the blade like you do on 15:57, 16:21, 16:48 and throughout this video. Be careful my friend.

That hose is around £150. I didn’t see £150 quids worth of upgrade for me.

Pretty shitty dust collection for the price!

When I created the pattern at around 5:30 and set the length to "Bookcaselength" the last panel was only going half of the Stockthickness over the edge. That meant when I set the length to "Bookcaselength - Stockthickness" the panel was set back about half the thickness from the end instead of lining up. I couldn't figure out what was going on and then I noticed in my pattern menu the "Start Point" value was defaulting to 0.004 for some reason. Changing that to 0.00 (same as in your video) made everything line up perfectly. Also the checkbox for "Suppression" in the menu needs to be ticked to get the checkboxes on each of the panels so that you can deselect the ones you don't want. Just writing this comment out in case someone else encounters a similar problem and goes trolling the comment section for help. Great series thank you!

Any chance you can show how this saw work doing bevel rip? it seems dangerous having the blade tilt towards the fence.

I LOVE my couple of Festool tools, but when it came to the workbench, like you, small space and stability was required not portability. I wasn’t happy with the stability of the Festool MFT. So I built a heavy Roubo bench and use traditional spring steel holdowns and a birdsmouth. Never regretted it! and no holes for small stuff to fall through.

whats the best clone of the woodpeckers

Thank you for the review, it was very helpful. Could you possibly review the Axminster MFT workbench? On this side of the pond is hard to get great reviews. I am considering ditching the massive workbench and getting a Axminister workbench, Benchdogs fence system and now the Ultra rail square.

145 gbp? 275 AUD for a triangle square??? Wow... my milling machine is going to pay for itself in no time. THAT is your no brainer...

I have just bought one of these from amazon. Model number is the same as yours but I too found the rollers to be a very bad design. If you tighten the screws the rollers lock up, if you slacken the screws there is every chance they will fall out after a short time. Also, the holes through the rollers is much larger than the screws so the roller flops about. I was also missing one roller. I intend to replace the bolts with shoulder bolts. The angles are all about 1deg less than they should be.

Get your elbow and hand OFF the tabletop. Ok the saw is not running but normalisation of deviance …….

Is that a CS50 table saw you’ve got there?

Thank you for this. You not only shared a lot of details but also the rationale behind your choices. A great learning experience for me. 😅😅😅

It looks very precise! People seem to love it apart from the battery power source!

Looks like a toy... Too small for any real work

Hi Andy, Your broken tap is probably the result of having no lubrication and simply twisting the tap into the hole. The technique for cutting a thread is a couple of turns to get it started and so you can check perpendicularity then it is half a turn on the tap and then back in reverse, back to where you stopped and another half turn then back again then repeat until fully threaded. As for lubrication I think paraffin is the one used on aluminium although to be frank anything is better than nothing, I used silicone spray. Another point to mention to any DIYer’s taps normally come in threes namely tapered, intermediate and plug or bottoming. The tapered tap is used first it has tapered threads with only full threads on the last 1/3rd the taper enables you to get the first part of the tap in the hole and enables you to get it perpendicular. The Intermediate tap has a slight taper and full threads from about halfway up the tap. The bottoming tap is fully threaded along its entire length. The supplied tap looks to me as though it is an intermediate tap so has to be driven in almost to the end to guarantee full threads in the hole. Care needs to be exercised removing the tap as it can easily strip away a thread particularly in soft materials like aluminium.