@@PaulyDownUnder unfortunately I am unable to answer that question. I am sorry.

@@jackmama79 unfortunately I’m not much help for this process outside of the 99-04 Mustangs I’ve tried it on. I can definitely sympathize with you for not wanting to pull the trigger on a full “erase and program” . Wish I had more info for you.

@@Mustang5L5 Thanks for replying. Got brave enough to try it and it eventually worked after trying a few different keys from this stack I had I found two that the truck would allow me to program in.

@@jackmama79 glad it worked for you! 👍

Sorry. I no longer have access to make more right now

Definitely not as much. With the Flow masters you could find the right RPM and it just resonated in the interior. The Borla are nowhere near the level of drone that the flows have, but there is a little. If you get on the throttle, they are still loud mufflers. Overall it's just a huge reduction in the level of drone, and a much more quieter idle and when cruising around down being gentle on the gas. WOT sounds amazing.

awesome thanks. looking for something to put on our 70 dart.

@@Mustang5L5 Just sent it over right now. My email is the same as my username. Check junk/spam maybe?

@@Mustang5L5 just sent

@@TheShafro got it. I’ll take a look at it when I have some time to focus and get back to you

@@Mustang5L5 great, thank you!

It needs to be controlled by some sort of external controller. I used that Amazon controller to demonstrate, but really this is probably geared more to folks with an aftermarket ECU like Holley or Megasquirt that can create a PWM signal output on a spare output channel. This unit really can't be used as a standalone controller.

I don't think i'd immediately suspect the computer yet. I'd still look at the fuel system and troubleshoot that like checking for fuel pressure on the rail. I'd be looking to see if the pump can supply pressure to the engine, and if the injectors are getting signals to spray fuel. Could be a wiring issue, could be a failed fuel line from the tanks? Could be several things but I wouldn't blame the ECU just yet. In fact, with it priming the pump for 1-2 seconds and stopping, it's likely not the ECU unless it's a fuel injector issue. Still, i'd have to troubleshoot wiring first. On Mustangs, i've seen a similar issue causes when the little S-hose on the fuel pump splits in the tank. Pump primes, but no pressure at the rail.

Thank you so much for getting back to me, I just not sure what the actual computer does for my issue. But reading your text back to me kinda helps me out. I'm glad that you feel. Maybe it's not the the computer.I'll look elsewhere, I change the fuel pressure regulator and the truck started, but I think it was because it still had some starting fluid in it.From the last time I tried to start it, but it wound up dying on me and wouldn't start again after that

@@ragfoxninetre none as far as I know. The 38mm Varga was only used on the 94-04 SN95

F150/F250 would be speed density batch fire injection. They fire the entire bank of injectors at the same time. It would be unable to disable the individual injectors to perform the cylinder balance test.

I don't have a preferred brand but my preferred Vendors are Digikey and Mouser. I typically get all my electronics components there vs Amazon or Ebay. It's a little more $$$ but I feel better about the quality of the components those vendors sell.

@@Mustang5L5 even chasing idle issue for 3-4 days then after running just crank no start. Pulled ecu and capacitors are leaking 👌👌👌

@@matthopkins1107 At this point, i just assume every ECU that hasn't been repaired, probably should be repaired as a proactive measure. Good luck!

Honestly, i'm not too sure. I would imagine that all of the 84-89 cars with the split fold rear seat have similar sheet metal, but the interior panels pre-1990 definitely won't fit with the brackets. It might take some clever parts selection to make it look OE if you are leaving the original '86 interior mostly intact.

@@Mustang5L5 Okay, that's what I was thinking. I might need to get some custom work done to make the interior look decent. Thank you.

@@MN-vw2lo Yeah, not a whole lot of folks doing this so not a ton of info with regards to some of the changes needed with various years. That's kinda why i did the video to at least give folks an idea what to expect with regards to welding in the braces. Everything beyond that, just need to get creative. Good luck sir

No. This controller requires a PWM signal from another device like an aftermarket (or factory) ECU or an arduino. Something needs to take the temp sensor signal, and other inputs like AC command, WOT, etc and convert that into a PWM signal that this unit can use. A stand-along controller would be great, but as far as I know nobody makes one design to output a PWM signal.

@@Mustang5L5 can you create a temperature sensor directly for it without an ECU? thanks

@@yellowjoe.2000 No. Temp sensors work off resistance. This controller works off a pulsing voltage signal. The faster or slow the pulse, the higher or lower the fan speed will be. You need something to convert a resistance signal from a temp sensor over to a PWM voltage signal.

Based on Infinti wiring diagrams I've looked at, it appears to be rated to around 50 amps. Given that it has a soft-start feature, I never saw anywhere near that with this fan setup. This was about 25 amps running 2 fans.

I don't have a part number for a good harness. There are cheap ones on Ebay and Amazon, but i feel the wiring is a little on the small side. I don't use these on my car and managed to get my hands on the OEM plugs which have much larger wire sizes. Search "Engine Cooling Fan Control Module Plugs Connectors Wire Harness 3Pcs for Infiniti G37 G35 G25 Q40" and some might pop up.

@@Mustang5L5 Do you have any pinout for this? If I found it right, ( latch on the top, lookin at the module) 3pin: - , PWM, + and 2pin: +, -. And PWM signal it's not like regular PWM to GND but 12V?

I added a link to the video description. Click on it and go to the first post. Near the bottom is a diagram of the controller wiring layout in terms of POS and NEG. It matches your wiring. I've found the PWM signal responds to both PWM+ and PWM-. I don't want to label what it should be because I don't have any official documentation, but I've used it with both.

Any chance you are selecting “ignition key programming” rather than “erase and program keys”? at 6:15. Could also be communication issues with ForScan, the computer and the vehicle. You need the USB interface that can be switched between HS-can and MS-can. The non-switchable type will not work for PaTS as another commenter has pointed out. I agree, it’s definitely intimidating doing this because you don’t know if it will work. I can only say have a backup plan in place like calling a locksmith and doing it when it’s most convenient for that. And you are correct you can program up to 8 but I would plan to just use ForScan to program the first 2 and then program the rest using the method in the owners manual.

The one in the video is an aftermarket fan. I don’t recall if it is a Dorman brand. I got it off RockAuto.com a few years back for about $100. It might be a Four Seasons 75282 fan.

The prop valve really controls the knee point which is the point of pressure reduction in the brake fluid to the rear calipers. It's only one function of the brake bias calculation, as leverage (rotor diameter) and clamping force (caliper piston size) also play a role. As you increase rotor diameter and clamping force, it takes much less pressure to stop that moving wheels. I know the Cardone remans were the ones a lot of folks are having issues with. Most of the failures i've heard of have been on track, but have been catastrophic resulting in serious damage. I imagine severe heat might play a role. I think Cardone does remans for other vendors who rebox the part under their brand, but I dont know who uses them. I've seen some folks tear the calipers down themselves to inspect and have found subpar with with some Cardones. Others have gotten junkyard calipers and rebuilt them themselves. Really it's your decision as to the risk you want to take and your application. Street car? probably wont ever have an issue provided you keep an eye out for rear brake drag. But i also think street cars probably wont notice a difference at all between 38mm and 43mm calipers, other than pedal feel. There's also other factors at play here, such as weight distribution (IRS cars can sometimes get away with more rear brake bias), tire size front and rear, tire stickiness, does the car have ABS? etc. I hate to dictate what folks should do and rather just provide the information and let them make an informed choice. Id probably have different recommendations for a stripped down Fox notchback with 245 tires all-around, vs an 04 cobra with 275 front/315 rear, ABS and the IRS out back.

Thanks! I definitely plan on heading to the next meet with it.

Are you able to connect to any Ford vehicle using it? You also need to make sure the HS/MS-can switch is in the correct position when you make your initial connection to the vehicle. If it's switched the wrong way, you will also get that same error. If it's not that, it may be a driver issue.

@@Mustang5L5 I tried it on an 08 Expedition and it worked fine. I just cant get to work on the mustang.

If you have two working programmed keys, you don’t need to use ForScan at all to program. You can do the procedure I show around 9:20 that’s in the owners manual. It’s much quicker and easier to make extra keys this way when you have two already.

Yeah, figure I throw myself on camera one of these times.

Im not into Flowmaster as much as I used to be, but in this video they sound better than the Borla XS. I like the sound of Borla XR1 much better

@edjackson4389 I had a buddy with a built Trans Am that had the Borla XR1 mufflers and it sounded great.