It’s a ring mandrel

Indeed, I don’t own reduction dies but I do have a larger coin ring reducer die by Skylar Jenkins. I use that or a dapping block to fold large coins.

Thank you for replying so quickly! You just solved a problem I was running into! I’m bout to get everything and was stumped when I saw what you used. Helped me realize that the die reductions are the same. So in your opinion. I’d be fine with a 17 degree cone and the normal stretcher/reducer plate? I was thinking of buying ball bearings as well as the cone for my press. I also considered that it may be a good idea to have one 1” die reduction in case I get a tough coin

@@essicc I think you're on the right track. Most reduction dies are a bit small in the largest hole (only big enough to fold a quarter) so keep that in mind. The Skylar Jenkins stretcher from Pepe tools is significantly larger. I personally use a 2.5" dapping block (the 2" block is not big enough) and dapping punches to fold coins as large as a silver eagle. You don't necessarily need a 17 degree cone if you have a dapping set. You can also get nylon/delrin dapping punches too. Lastly I do recommend a Swedish wrap set. If you plan on doing big coins it's hard to get that nice straight wall without it.

@@joshuathejeweler ok thanks for the info! I’m a bit nervous to not have propper tools. So the block does just as well as a reduction due is what interpreting?…

@@essicc Yes basically. I don't own any reducing dies except the ones that come with a ring sizer. But if you feel you need them then go for it.

Go for it! I started out as a blacksmith. Make a few copper bracelets at a live demo event and I bet you’ll have customers wanting to buy them right away.

If you’re in the US Otto Frei or Amazon has them. Search for bench pin with steel block.

Newer coins are quite malleable, however they will crack if over worked. I find I can get most to between sizes 6 & 9 before they start to show signs of stress.

@@joshuathejeweler Ok, thank you for the reply.

Not usually for a standard quarter but I may for older coins as they tend to be more work hardened

Yes I do on joshuathejeweler.com

Sure thing but I must receive payment up front in graded 1937-D three-legged buffalo nickels, $5 total face value. No refunds. ;)

Only if you sell it. I'm sure the federal bank reserve could not really give a.

I haven't seen anyone do this successfully. The challenge is the inner material would be spread so thin it would crack very easily making it difficult to form the ring. That being said the punched pieces make nice earrings, tie tacks and cuff links. With larger coins like Morgan dollars I can even make a second ring from the center piece.

maybe using the purest k and heating to some point below melt although you would probably end up with a plain gold ring. it bears experimentation. the plug could be pressed back into the ring perhaps.@@joshuathejeweler

Most brass, copper, nickel, gold and silver coins will work for ring making if you are careful. I avoid steel coins and zinc pennies however. Steel can mar my tools, and zinc pennies just aren't very malleable and the copper cladding separates from the zinc interior.

The coin is made from copper and nickel which are very tough metals (ie they will bend a lot before breaking). It will work harden and crack however if I go too far, and older coins tend to be work hardened already so I anneal those.

@@joshuathejeweler Thanx for your reply. Be well.

I've found with newer quarters (less than 25 years old) I can generally size them to about a size 9 ring without annealing. They will crack if over-worked and for larger sizes or older coins I will anneal them. When stretching the coin only stretch a little bit at a time and turn the coin about 1/8 of a turn with every stretch so you aren't overworking one area of the coin.

Not for this one but I do anneal for older coins or larger ring sizes

I've spent about $300 and still cannot make a ring out of a 50 cent piece

Sorry to hear you're having trouble with coin ring making. Half dollars are a bit tougher to move than quarters, so they take more patience and slightly different tools. The older silver one's can crack easily too so they need to be annealed frequently. I typically use an arbor press, and swedish wrap dies for those coins. I'm happy to help if there's a specific part of the process you're hung up on.

Actually no, not with a modern quarter. The nickel is very tough and doesn’t deform much and the only part of the coin in contact with the die is the very edge of the outside and inside rim. Silver coins are a different story however because they are softer.

@@joshuathejeweler ty, I have never seen it done that way, I think I'll try it.

Yep that’s the old school way, it takes a bit more patience :)

They’re pretty popular with the ladies too :)

I have another video under 1 minute :)

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