Amen to that!

It’s in Scout Falls Alabama.

Its the hole cutter 9000.

Its a shear

It's a Binford 9000 lol

We always called them nibblers in the Ironworkers

We never cut in vents ,but the homeowner wanted thus and they didn't want know tar paper either,lot of haters on here thing they know what they talking bought,all we did is watch a video just like this,done the same way,lol

To do this correctly where it won't leak, try these tips for items that are bigger than the 9" rib width of the metal. However, if it's within a sheet, you will follow the directions below and make a "U" cut. 1. The preferable way to install a large item is where two sheets of metal meet. If that is the case, where I describe a "U" cut, you will use two sheets of metal shaped like Utah or Oklahoma and have reversed shapes for the left and right of the opening. 2. For the upper piece(s) of metal, cut them about a foot below the target item's flashing. 3. For the lower piece(s) of metal, order them or cut them about a foot above the target item's flashing. This produces about 3 feet of overlap. The overlap will be seen when done, and some customers will hate you for this, but oh well, it's correct. 4. Lay the lower sheet(s) of metal and cut them in with a "U" shape instead of a hole. 5. Install the large piece of flashing designed for a shingle roof now. Fasten it to roof deck above. If it's like the item in the video, remove its cover to access its flashing. 6. The best install for this is to use a few slits, somewhat like the hacks in video show, that go horizontally, and allow the flashing to stick past the lower "U" cut metal. This needs to be on flat areas of the metal roof. 7. The lower seal is accomplished with caulk at the tiny slit areas. We are not relying on the caulk very much, 8. The lowest part of the flashing is now a horizontal line sitting on top of the ribs of the roofing metal. This should be sealed on the bottom with a cut piece of formed closure foam hidden underneath. This is screwed to the roof deck through ribs and/or sealed carefully on the edges. Very little caulk is used here, if any. 9. The upper sheet(s) of metal also get a "U" shape. This "U" really has *Square corners* that will become obvious features when you go to seal it. 10. Since we are overlapping the flashing and not the metal roof for *some* of this cut (there is a slot on this piece that's hard to explain where metal goes below the flashing), you will have a few exposed ribs that end on top of the flashing. These get inside foam closures to prevent blowing rain from going uphill. Screws here may be tricky. It's best not to screw through the (unseen) flashing pan here, so plan to hit above the flashing if possible. 11. A small amount of caulk is normally used where this piece(s) hits the lower metal roof at the overlap. All told, we are looking at around 4 to 6 linear feet of mostly hidden caulk. Side seams are usually caulked and screwed to the deck. 12. While the fold-over rib idea that these guys used has a place in metal roofing, they clearly did it wrong, making a huge dam and a place where visible caulk must be used and where they are relying on caulk alone to prevent water seeping through. Every roofer in the world knows to never rely on exposed caulk. We all rely on covered caulk, but never the exposed variety. 13. Finally, do not do any cuts tight against the edges of your vent stack. Ever. Water sits on flashing for numerous reasons, not the least of which is leaf and twig debris collecting there. Your sealed seams must be set back pretty far to avoid the swimming pool effect. 14. Now to why this might be done: DIY. A pro would likely rip out the old flashing down to a round cross-section pipe and use (an admittedly expensive) metal roof flashing. Large metal flashing boots may cost $100 or more, and they will add to labor and materials in the largest of cases. Still, it's very amateurish because of the voided warranty. This problem is usually seen on mobile homes with enormous *wood-burning* metal chimney stacks (and the like) where cost is already a major constraint. 15. If these guys every encountered a brick or rock chimney, they are going to eaten alive using this install technique with all their mind-numbing idiot ice and water dams they would have. 16. My professional technique will still look really stupid and ugly, but it won't leak for at least 20 years or before I retire. That's about the same longevity as most other roofing products. 17. When all said and done, my install will be rather similar to the method mandated by the Velux Window company for skylight installs that they warrant for 20 years. It's the same process modified because we don't have a leaded flashing piece for the bottom or a side-channel for tucking in the metal to a flashing.

​@@uruiamnot - Any chance you might like to make a video of what you are trying to describe?

@@dylanjames7031 I've got another channel that could potentially explain this. I am busy a lot, and video editing is quite a chore. That's why good pros hardly ever do the video explanations... you get lousy videos by lousy contractors with a lot of time on their hand, or lousy videos by good contractors who don't have the time to explain everything... or no time to even take the video. Also, a good video would require around 15 to 25 minutes (too long for most DIYers) and take 4 to 6 hours of total time to get on KZfaq. We'll see. I tested the waters a bit once and have a good "how to" video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b95lY9SAtM_Xenk.html

HATERS GONNA HATE

I BEEN DOING IT THAT WAY FOR OVER 20 YEARS IF IT DIDN'T WORK I WOULDN'T KEEP DOING IT,,,,,,BUILD A CURB FOR A SKYLIGHT

your dumb too

25th

haven't had a leak yet been thirty years your stupid

Yes, I'm trying to figure out how cutting a slit is a safe idea. Water could just roll in if that seal breaks down. Would overlapping panels not have been a safer decision?

​@@eddiecrandall5805 - Calling everyone dumb and stup1d etc in the comments section, comes across to us as this guy in this video does: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNWSo5iArbzXh40.html