Here you go! www.swanflight.com/guitarist-flight-cases/guitar-tech-cases.html

The rubber bands are really strong, so strong that they hold the carriage up (and therefore the workpiece up) to the cutter without any issue. Think of it like suspension in a car. The work can't get any closer to the cutter than I want it to, but it can move away from it if necessary. I hope that answers your question?

Gracias desde Australia! 🇦🇺

The RGDMS8 has locking tuners, and the nut was cut perfectly from the factory, so there is no issue with tuning stability, and no need to change the existing nut. None of my guitars have stainless steel frets, I've never needed them.

Just try them. If they're the wrong size they either won't fit, or they will be too small to work.

I definitely like mine a lot more after I switched. Have fun with it!

Obrigado, amigo.

Firstly, thank you for the lovely comment. As far as the generator is concerned, you can dial in your 'resolution', so how smooth it turns out is dependent on how long you feel like waiting for the process to take. Because the video is so old now, and because I use Fusion 360 for CAM operations (CAD in Rhino), I never actually tried using it in Easel Pro. I think it actually pre-dates that software! As always, I recommend grabbing some scrap wood and doing some experiments- it's free, so there's no downside to trying. I hope it helps you!

@@TempleGuitars Awesome, thanks for the ultra speedy reply :). When I began my CNC journey I dove right into Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM, and it was daunting! I've since switched to Rhino for CAD, and might just rely on CAM part of F360, but currently on the fence for that :).. Meanwhile, Ill try a scrap piece to test Super Grad Gen out.. Thanks again! Might you do an updated overview video of your current workflow?

Fusion really is daunting. The intense learning curve of CAD and especially CAM is something many makers don't realise when they decide to go CNC. I've been trialling alternatives to Fusion for CAM, and I still haven't landed on a workflow I love, so I haven't done an updated video because of that.

It depends on what model/capacity your cnc is, what wood you use, the 'resolution' of your toolpaths etc. It's a bit like the question "How long is a piece of string?" It just depends.

Yes, you do have to learn each trigger for a new articulation set, otherwise Logic would have no idea which note to trigger. But as I said in the video, you only have to do it once, and you can easily use it in every future session for that plugin. There weren't any skipped steps in the tutorial. "I don't see any keyboard notes under the Selector category in the Output tab?" You have to enter them, as I showed you at 04:37.

@@TempleGuitars thank you kindly for the reply! I will follow these steps and hopefully get it up and running. Thanks again.

@@TempleGuitars So the column list of notes that you access at 4:37 doesn't populate for me. I see that you click on the Output tab and then suddenly there appears that column. I dont know how to obtain that drop down menu of note listings. Thats the part I seem to be missing. Sorry for all the questions.

I'm not sure why that would be. You'll have to ask someone who knows all the ins and outs of Logic, because when I repeat the steps I always get the same result. Sorry I couldn't identify why you're having that issue.

Same with Cole Clark! I guess it just gives you the opportunity to buy from some small shop luthiers instead...

@@TempleGuitars I'm left handed that's virtually the only way to get what I actually want

Ah shit! That's rough dude!

Glad I could help!

I appreciate it.

Glad you liked it!

Absolutely. Because the headstock tilts away from the carriage, and because the router is restricted from entering that area, you can carve the neck radius even with a scarf jointed neck.

Thank you!

The strings I used were thinner where they contact the tuners, to avoid this problem... do your strings do the same? If they do, you can easily and safely drill the post hole bigger to accomodate the smaller part of the string. As far as not fitting through the nut, I'm not sure why mine is different to yours except for one detail. When I received this guitar it was covered in player grime and had a couple of minor dings in it. I'm wondering if it wasn't either floor stock that they sold me at full price, or a model sent out to KZfaqrs to demo. Either way there exists the opportunity there for mods to have been made before it was sent to me. Getting your nut cut to suit your preferred strings is a quick job (it should only need mods to the top 1 or 2 strings), and as such should be cheap for a tech in your area to do for you. Good luck!

Go get 'em, Nate!

I'm still waiting, but we'll get there!

Thank you so much for the supportive words, David.

The one with the multiple lightning bolt f-holes? That was a prototype I actually never finished, so if you bring yours to market you still win first place... great minds think alike!

@@TempleGuitars Thats the one. Its basically a tele-style body with the horn cut off. I think it looks way better. Ive seen several guitars on your instagram that are finished with that body style. Or was the one in this video just a prototype but of the same body type?

Ah, I see. Yes, that style was the prototype, but the body type I've been making for about 22 years. I call them 'Teleblasters'. It was heavily inspired by early 2000's Maton solidbody guitars- stripped down to the bare essentials.

Thanks Jeff!

Wow, they're on the secondhand market already?! Amazing score, I'm jealous... I tune to drop E with the strings I put on it in the video with no problems at all. Unfortunately I bought that clip on tuner off eBay 13 years ago, so I'm not great for a recommendation there, although I'm sure they're all pretty much the same.

Thank you for your response! I'll look to grab the heavy bottom set. Appreciate it!

Oh, thank you for the kind words.

🤘🏻 Ave Satanus 🤘🏻

Thanks homie!

Wow, you're fast! Thank you very much!

It depends on your wiring schematic, but in most cases as long as your potentiometers are all grounded to each other and the output jack/bridge, there's no need because the sleeve of the pots ground to the cavity shielding. Some people use the shielding only, and don't ground the pots to each other. Try to find a wiring schematic for your guitar, and check.

Hmmm... My take on this is it's important as a tech to know as much as you can before putting yourself out there for anything more serious than just helping out friends or doing local shows where you're just tuning and loading. If you sign up for a larger tour situation, it's not so much about whether fretwork pops up a lot, as it is a question of 'Am I ready for whatever may happen?" Minor fretwork fixes do need to be performed for sure. One thing I do that a lot of other techs don't, is whenever possible I spend a day with all the gear before we leave, going over everything, setting up redundancies where needed, and making sure the gear is ready to go, so I won't have to fix a fret that has popped up on the road, etc. One of the biggest things that gets you a reputation in the industry is when you do a great job, that leads to people talking, and more work coming. I hope that helps, and good luck!

Thank you, I definitely like looking at this guitar more now. I'm tossing up whether to swap the pickups for a non covered set as well.

Hell yeah. I want one so bad!

@@TempleGuitars I hear you. And I'm not a gold kind of man, but gold on a bass or guitar is a special kind of lovely, and last year I finally added some cheap golden tuners and knobs on my heavily modded and painted old rg8, _and_ my 6 string bass. Maybe one day I'll find golden bridges for both, or individual saddles or something, but for now that's enough upgrading, especially since I just swapped in a $100some Seymour Duncan Pegasus bridge pickup on the guitar 😂 💸💸 and my bass has been stuck in a shop for over a month now for a volume pot swap I should have just tried to do myself.

Dude, I put a Pegasus 8 in the bridge of my old Ibanez RGA8, and it is the heaviest guitar I have ever played! Great minds!

@@TempleGuitars 😂 indeed, brother. I haven't even run her through my convoluted pedal rig yet for distortion, but the Peggy sounds crazy even clean. And she's LOUD 😅 My only issue is....I haven't really played my 8 without dirt all these years, but all of a sudden, I guess because I did the swap myself with really no help from the wiring diagrams, my attention during the sound test was really sharp, and all of a sudden it seems like the middle switch position sounds way low now 🤔 Each bucker sounds great on its own, but the blend sounds weak in comparison....not that I really ever played the middle position, but still, you want everything to work as it should 😂 I don't know why Seymour didn't add the goofy Ibanez wiring to their list of diagrams because the rg8 bridge isn't connected the sam way. I wonder if the wiring of Ibanez stock vs Seymour is opposite 🤔 I know I soldered the Seymour positive and ground where Ibanez positive and ground were, so it's not a polarity confusion 🤷‍♂️🤷🏽‍♂️ I'm also wondering if I uncross the red and white wires that get taped off and left hanging, and actually connect them to the volume pot or something, if that would bring up the middle position volume..... I'm going to research a little more Seymours in Iby ( as an exgirlfriend used to call them 😂 ), but if I don't find the answer, I'll leave it as is, because the bridge position and neck position work just fine. The reduced middle position might offer an interesting hollow effect while playing 😂

It definitely sounds like a phase issue with your middle position. That's a very easy thing to diagnose, just swap the wires over. Good luck!

That's a great way to do it- the whole vibe as a tech is to be flexible. When I started out, I started quite big, so my whole setup was in one enormous metal case (we called it The Aluminium Falcon). This was fine for local shows in theatres etc, but there was no way I was getting that thing on a plane in New Zealand with local bands with local budgets. I love the sound of your quick deployment setup, especially if you use a battery tuner and light with it, so you are fully self contained.

@@TempleGuitars oh I'm all about self-contained power. The little gig bag will have a section with a foam insert to hold all my files and setup tools, I just picked up a pinecil soldering iron which has been pretty great for the quick odd job and mod, packs crazy small. I've got another small bag with rags and bottles and strings, primarily. Feels good when several slow percolating ideas flash together and become a thing.

Thanks for your positivity, Kyle! Comments like yours make all the hard work worth it.

I'm not sponsored by Carbatec, but I use their machines because they really are that good, and the after sales service is incredible. Those bandsaws are very pricey, but the peace of mind was worth it. Really solid machines.

@@TempleGuitars ive been to carbatec a few times in sydney and they are very nice guys , always helpful - there was one of those bandsaws recently for just 400aud on marketplace and was contemplating going for it but my workshop is a mess at the moment as im building new cabinets so i passed on it - are you located in NSW?

No mate, I'm down in Victoria.

Bob was way sexier! 😂🏆

You're awesome.

Glad it helped!

Best of luck!

I love it.

I was referring to the way that sandpaper was used in that particular situation. Many builders when starting out have no idea or initiative to use sandpaper straps in that way, which is why I called it a secret weapon.

Thank you. Here's one: www.circlethreedesigns.com/guitar-tech-briefcase and here's another one: www.circlethreedesigns.com/shop/guitar-tech-briefcases/guitar-tech-briefcase and one more for good luck: gomc.tv/product/brief-case-tech-box/ OK and one more: www.toursupply.com/Ultracase-Tech-Box-p/techbox.htm They also have them on Alibaba and sites like that.

@@TempleGuitars Thank you! Much appreciated!

Very welcome!