Gallagher used to have a separate board as well on older models going back to the late 1970's like the M800, M1500, BEV, BEV2, BEV3, B600, B1200, & B1600. Most brands don't have anything on the output these days. Power Wizard does on their 6 joule and larger units though.

I was lucky enough to get this from another repair shop that was getting out of the repair business and they sold me some of their stuff.

Same here!

The stupid mileage rating is a marketing number at best. It's based off a single strand of 12.5 gauge high tensile steel fence wire that's perfectly clean. I look at the joule rating of a unit to base/help people on what they need for their size area. A 6 joule unit would likely do 150-250 acres of multi wire fence depending on the grass/debris load on the line

Possibly the points are dirty and need to be cleaned or the capacitor is bad/weak.

Well, parts had been difficult to get since last summer and getting parts now from anyone that used to sell them is really non existent now since the the manufacturer stopped offering parts last November. I have probably 25) 100/120 Mile units and about 15) 200/240 Mile units sitting on a shelf that I don't know what to do with since parts are basically non existent anymore. On some of them, people told me to keep for parts and they would just go buy another brand of unit, some said to fix it if we could but didn't care if we could or couldn't and would just buy something else, and I'm sure there are some we haven't gotten too. They keep coming in and keep stacking up.

Yea I ended up ordering new leads today after I got some with the repair. I ordered a set of fluke branded ones this time. The original set lasted me about 8-10 years before I finally had to replace them. These Chinese ones I got were way cheaper, but I think I've only had them 2-3 years at the most. The new leads I ordered have some extra built in protection for the wires where they bend at, so I'm excited to try them out.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity you probably know this but you can get fluke made Chinese meters very cheaply online and they have pretty much the same quality as US ones. EEvblog and other channels have reviewed them. Fluke apparently makes most of their products in China. You just don't know if it has the same QC if you get it yourself

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mtKegpmGvbXJXXU.html

I've never recommended this brand or the sister brands even when there was parts, they're just not very well made units. The boards are ok, but the transformers are junk.

It's not an issue with the unit itself, but the way the unit is wired internally for the surge suppression board that it has, inside and the ground connection for it. You could have excess ground voltage if you don't have enough ground rods and that can cause some feedback and the GFCI doesn't know what's going on and it's tripping because it thinks there's a problem when there's not. Most brands don't recommend plugging fence chargers into GFCI outlets.

It's about 90% the same as the W210, just the last thing that's different is something to do with the switch and what you have to do to save the calibration. If you send me an email at [email protected] I'll send you the calibration instructions. Make sure your load bars aren't actually the issue of the weights being off because if you calibrate your scale and there's an issue with one of the bars, then you'll open up a whole can of worms trying to figure out what's actually the issue at that point.

That's the wrong information for someone to give you, "Buy the largest you can afford." That's going to end up costing you more on repairs, especially when you have such a small area of containment. That person doesn't know how these fence chargers work internally. You're going to overheat that unit inside because it's going to try and deliver 9-12 joules on a small area, and that unit will only be able to get rid maybe 10-25% of its actual power and the rest is going to be dissipated as heat inside two parts, the discharge side of the main board and the transformer, I've seen it plenty of times. You would be better off buying a smaller joule unit that will actually perform better and last longer and you went at any difference in shock performance and the animals will still respect the fence. If your hung up on getting power wizard, look at the PW3000 and that unit on it's own is pretty reliable for the money and simple to work on. Or if you want something that's will last even longer, look at the Gallagher M360 or M560. Gallagher is by far one of the best quality built brands out there. Don't always buy based off initial price, spend a little bit more money and get a quality made unit. Stay away from Zareba, anything at TSC w/ American Farmworks, the Patriot brand, the Speedrite brand, Blitzer, Red Snap'r, & Fi-Shock. If you want something that's you'll hardly ever have to send to me for repair, buy the Gallagher brand and you'll hardly ever need to talk to me for repairs.

Technically yes if it's a dual powered AC/DC unit. But you would have to personally unplug the AC cable from the unit and plug in the DC cable into it. There's only I think one brand that can do it automatically and that's the Gallagher MB & MBS models. You have to buy their battery back up device part number G58210, one of their 6 different MB or MBS models, which all of them are very reliable and we hardly see any of them in for repair.

Yep and now they're all mostly using capacitors from HK Film Capacitor company from Honk Kong China.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity I have placed up to 6uf in that encapsulation, surprised to see 20 uf in such a small space. Incredible how compact the size is.

Can you email me a picture of what you're after. [email protected]

The Cod 1.1 is either the version of software on the chips inside or the code for remote control for communication purposes so the two units match up and talk to each other. I can get you one here and ship it there, but they're kind of pricey for what they are and I'm sure shipping might be on the high side as well.

I do not unfortunately. There's also some sort of inductor inside I believe as well. I did make an extension cable for one for a couple of customers about 5 years ago, but it didn't work with the bars and scale because there's an inductor of some sort for signal strength on the current bars, and they didn't tell me that and of course that's why it didn't work and they wouldn't tell me what size or where the inductor could be bought, so I just stopped offering that on the HD5T bars. Older model bars, a lot easier to take care of on the connectors

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCitythanks for the response. I have a chewed example here but think the inside should be okay will try cut into it and see what I can find 👀

@@mervynpowell9384 All I can say is good luck getting through all the epoxy inside and being able to see anything useful. You might try calling up whoever your distributor is or the main hub there is in England/Europe for Tru-Test or Datamars and call them up. You'll likely have to send the bar to them though and let them put a new connector on it, they won't tell you how to do it over the phone, that's the same with us here. Luckily I have the pin out for their older bars still in my files.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity managed to get in, looks like it’s a 3k3 from pin 5 to pin 7 and then wire link between 6 & 7. No inductor as a component that I can see. Will update you after I’ve ordered connectors etc if they work. Do you have links to the cable and connectors you use? They don’t look like anthenol ecomates?

@@mervynpowell9384 Maybe they've changed things up, but that inductor thing was told to me by from someone at Tru-Test, so I was basing it off that as well. The ecomate one is just a branding name from the Amphenol company. They also make a solid black one that isn't branded ecomate. There's also the brand called Hirshmann that makes a similar all black connector that can be used the same as well. Just shop around from wherever you can get the cheapest price from. On the 3.3 k ohm I would get a 1/2 watt resistor version of it even if it was only using a 1/4 Watt size, the cost between the two sizes is barely different usually.

Unfortunately no it can't be operated with one safely. Also about 3-4 years ago, the only company that was still making/supplying the 3 & 4 prong weed choppers to all the stores and such stopped. They stated that the demand wasn't there anymore. There hasn't been a weed chopper type of unit made in 40+ years, so anything that's a weed chopper unit you find is at least that old or older, most times 50-60 years old. You're best bet to maybe find a chopper is eBay, but make sure you're sitting down, very expensive nowadays. Search 3 prong weed chopper or 4 prong weed chopper and see what you find. But once those last choppers are sold and gone, that's the end of them.

I'm not sure what the blue block thing is inside. Is this a SE-5 or Mark 5 unit? Either way it's repairable.

They've made some changes to their boards the last year or so, and got rid of those features. The board on the newer ones look nothing like the last version. They had some issues with the newest version boards early on and I think that back and forth feature was messing with the other electronics inside and so they got rid of them. They're working on coming out with a new solar unit at some point in time, so I imagine the new model, wherever it comes out, will have some features built in again.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Thank you very much for clarifying that for me👍

They're newer/current models are junk compared their 15+ year old stuff.

Visiting a manufacturer many years ago, in the engineering department I saw many open equipment from other manufacturers. When I asked if they were reviewing their design, they told me NO, we are reviewing whether they use our designs for their equipment. 😂

I sent a reply to your other comment.

I'm not 100% sure. Could you email me at [email protected] with a picture pointing at the part and maybe I can figure it out from there. I don't know what part is U1.

I'm going to have to call the manufacture up and ask. Are you sure it's actually bad? Find a multimeter that has the uF -)|- capacitance testing feature on it and unplug it from the board and test across it. I don't honestly think I've ever had to replace one of those on it before.

You're welcome

They're pretty good models for sure. We don't see them as often as in the past when they were still production models.

It's organized chaos. I set tools aside and such, but they're things I use the most of, so they're always there.

No unfortunately they're basically stuck at what they are. You could try and some more strands to take up the space where the cat has to work a little harder to get through.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity thank you for your quick reply! I will do that then. I am sure he will learn eventually 🤣

I'm not super familiar with the Nemtek stuff because they're not sold here in the United States. I would call up Nemtek directly or whoever your place is you bought it from. www.nemtek.co.za/product-category/commercial-security/commercial-energizers/

It is no longer a production model. It's 15-20+ years old if you can find one and no parts are made for it any longer.

What exact model of gallagher did you buy? The only 400 models I know of have other letters in front of that, so I don't know which one you have exactly. Here are those model names and their power. Gallagher M400, old discontinued model from 20 years ago 2.5 joule output. Gallagher S400, solar unit made today 3 +/- joule output Gallagher MBS400, multi AC/DC powered unit still made today with 3 joule output. I don't know any other of their models with the 400 model name. Are you mistaken on the exact model name?

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Thank you. S400

@@judymyers9552 Oh ok, that's around 3+/- output joules and a very reliable unit. So if you want to use a gallagher lightning diverter with that unit, you can use it.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Thank you.

No repair done, but if you read the description of the video.... Test & Review and that's what you got.

Overpriced hype is the Speedrite stuff. I've had a few come in, a couple within warranty and a couple just outside. One had gotten ants into it through where the battery wire goes into the case of the unit. There's a small air gap space around that opening where the battery wire goes into the housing, perfect dark area for the ants to go and try and make their home. The ants damaged the board and the manufacture wouldn't cover the warranty even though this unit is meant to be outside.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity thanks man! The guy at the hard ware store talked me into ordering the solar 1000 speed right just in spite cause Parmak was so rude to us lol 😂 hopefully it last longer than the 2 weeks my Parmak did. If not I’ll Just send it to you to fix ! Thanks for the videos !

I'm a one man show and I miss plenty of calls that come through from people and I don't always catch the emails. You'll have a hard time today though getting a hold of me, family day.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity i found a circuit and repaired my energizer . Your video did show me i can repair my own rather than buy a new one . thanks .

I still have a small fan clamped on my shelf pointed at my face. I've had that fan for about 10 years. I don't use it all the time, but use it throughout the day.

I don't unfortunately. I've never had to work on one those before. Are you located here in the States or somewhere else? If you're located here in the States, I could get you the number to their main hub here to chat with someone.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Thanks. I am based in the UK. From the printing on antenna cable, I can read it's a 3core cable but need to know which points these 3 cores are connected to as I need to make an extension.

@@nknewsnknews9151 I wish I knew the wiring set up on those things, but I don't. I do know gallagher does sell an extension cable for their antennas, so that's an option as well if you can find a dealer to order one for you.

Hi, we're chatting back and forth easier with the email you sent.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity Hi, Yes, We discus via e-mail. Thank you for your help.

No the output transformer spikes the voltage from around 400+/- volts up to 9,000+/- volts

Complaining about a 3 1/2 year old video. Watch this video instead kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q5d5nrWr0KvSZ4k.html

Are you talking about the large blue capacitors stacked side by side, or somewhere else inside? Those large blue capacitors don't go bad all that often, so that scorch mark you're seeing might be cosmetic from something else near by that blew. If one of those large blue capacitors are indeed bad, it won't cause the output fuse on the right hand side to blow, so there's likely something else that's wrong causing it. The only sure way to know if that capacitor is bad is to test the (uF) microfarads of the capacitor with a multimeter that can test capacitance.

@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity It's one of the big ones. It's scorched around one of the terminals and the wire on the terminal is melted.

@@bigmac51290 Does it have anything that's supposed to be plugged onto it? Like a small circuit board, some small resistor/diode soldered together, or just wires?

@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity the wire directly links the capacitor to the transformer. Edit: I just plugged it in with the case apart and found a capacitor in the other pair arcing at the circuit board. So, in one pair of capacitors there is a scorched capacitor. In the other pair of capacitors there is arcing at the board

Thanks for finding my channel. I've got 900+ videos of on my channel of all sorts of repairs. Mostly electric fence units and livestock scales and load bars.

I'm not sure what capacitor yours has, but if you send me a picture to my email, [email protected], I might be able to help you out.