Glad it was helpful!

It was a fun project

I need more information to know. The concept of a DC motor and power supply are relatively universal. What I am saying is you could restore it as is and if the power supply fails simply replace the power supply with something similar to what is used to drive a treadmill motor. You need to make sure the new power supply is within the correct specs but they are easily configurable. As to weather or not the treadmill motor would be a downgrade, lateral move, or upgrade, I would need to know the motor specs from the label. the more information you can provide the more help I can be.

How is that?

Of course, here you go: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hLt_dtJhltelgnk.htmlsi=WzsFgb6z5Z1JEIJk

@@dazecars Thank you!!!

my pleasure

It has to do with the carb body material. Yours must have been something other than aluminum, my guess would be a zinc alloy . kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b9RzdL1ym664mIk.htmlsi=lDItvTZnd5SYrxRW

@@dazecars I do believe that the Bendix carbs are a zinc based carb. It all your fault for not making your video two years ago, LOL!!

I will try and make future videos in a more timely fasion 😂😃🤣

Outlet wall. That strip is likely 10 amps or less. you want a 20 amp wall circuit

@@dazecars Thank you, because it was driving me nuts . Ill try the outlet

My pleasure.

Most but not all treadmill motors are DC and require an ac to dc converter. Most ac units are 3 phase requiring a 3 phase hook up and a VFD for variable speed.

@@dazecars thank you so much

my pleasure

I agree but I don’t think the isolation is necessary ( depending on the size of your fingers 😁) as MSD distributors use a virtually identical sized cap to the smaller one in this video.

Yes but only if the Variac can handle the amp draw of the 230 v device being run on it

Lots of ways to get it done but Reverse bleeding (filling an empty system by pumping fluid in through the SC bleeding screw is my preferred technique.

You make a valid point but It’s interesting when I was researching this I found a lot of strong opinions for and against either type of scale depending on a verity of criteria, but the overwhelming response was they both worked well in most situations.

@@dazecars Good to know, thanks

Glad I could help

Can you contact me through my website and send pictures of your board? I have not messed with an mc70 and the internet search I did came up with to many totally different boards all labeled mc70

@@dazecars I sent you an email with pictures.

I received it, thanks. I will answer here as it may help others. That board likely doesn’t use a choke from the factory as it has other cleaning components on board like the capacitors. I would also observe sparking at the brushes on hard starts. The board likely also has soft start which buy slowly increasing speed instead of trying to immediately ramp up at once reduces but does not fully eliminate the need for a choke. As to your question about the j5 and j4 not having played with an mc70 I have not experimented with the different options and do not know their function. Lots of boards have jumpers like that to test any number of functions specific to their board which are not always drive motor specific. Short of the ability to look at a circuit and determine its function (like an engineer which I am not) you need the pin out sheet. This lays out basic functions of connecting points on the board. Some manufacturers are really good at including such a sheet inside the treadmill and some don’t provide it at all. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.

1-2 ohms is the butter zone

More watts is never an issue because more just means the resistor is set up to handle the current. More ohms slows the breaking action but is easier on the brushes. The sweat spot is 1-2 ohms.

@@dazecars Thank you!!

My pleasure

It’s whatever component popped. You can usually see physical damage. Like i said in the video if it’s the MOSFET or SCR replace both at the same time.

@@dazecars yeah c28 is gone looks like it blew, Thank you

My pleasure

Yep us crazy Americans don’t know how to say it. 😂

Agreed!!

Glad you liked it.

Yep need a matched set😄

What is the stroke of both, there might be air in the system which I can confirm or eliminate with those numbers? And don’t say all the air is out. It’s the most common trouble issue I see and absolute. . If it is not air than you can change one or the other to get a bit more SC travel but that has the potential to effect pedal effort.

looks to be very similar

Every board of this model type yes or every model of board no. I have the hack for about a half dozen boards but it is for sure board model type specific.

@@dazecars Thank you for your quick response. Im just wondering how many different boards and motors are out there, because everyone i come across is different. Is there a way to test you can perform to find out which wires do what and which wires you need to run the potentiometer?

I wish it was that simple but most are not hackable and not all of them that are hackable use a potentiometer as Some use a PWM. Good news is most motors will run on any hackable board or any board still utilizing the treadmill control panel.

i don't know why there's a line thru part of what I wrote -- it's all "good" stuff. K PS: DUDE U DO GUD WERK :) THANKs

Oh-another point-significant braking on a metal lathe requires that lathe chuck NOT BE A SCREW ON CHUCK cause like fly wheels they can come unscrewed real fast yikes 10+lbs of spinning castiron = no fun.. -- malso for a screw on lathe friction brake to chuck cud be possible BUT remember that it wud also tighten the chuck on the lathe spindle. ugh

I didn’t do it

A mechanical brake is a outstanding option but I like electric breaking only because it automatically engages every time the power is cut eregardless of how

Excellent point.

The answer is will oil improve its function yes, will it be as good as a bearing cap, no. This is demonstrated all the time in automotive applications There is a reason we use bearings in place of oil impregnated bushings. While they both work the difference between the two in night and day

glad I could help. Did you go with the two potentiometer system for course and fine speed control or just a single?

@@dazecars I just went with the single. It's for a belt grinder, I don't mind a small dead spot at the very beginning

👍

Glad you like it. Thanks for watching.

Might, it will depend on the amp draw of the motor. Should work but still need to confirm.

Hey mate I got them to work speed wise slow down yes speed up hmmm not sure till in posting

Let me know if any other questions come up.

No clue. I don’t do treadmill repair. I simply use the parts for other projects so I can do basic troubleshooting but don’t know all the errors.

The motor or the speed sensor is going bad. There also maybe to much amp draw because the walking deck or walking belt is worn. Get your multimeter and test the amp draw or should be higher than 3amps without a load with a load 4-6 amps is good. Depending on the weight of the user. Check your speed sensor Check the brushes in the motor on each side make sure there atleast a inch any deep curvature will mean they are bad and no longer making contact to the commentator. Speed sensor signal short in the wire. I’m a treadmill repair tech lmk if you need help

Thanks for answering that I appreciate it.

@@dazecars no prob

👍

I bet you could do it. My videos walk you completely through it and I am happy to answer questions as they arise.

I honestly don’t know if have not experienced that resistor failure.

Glad you find my channel helpful.

Glad I could help

Oh I’m sure. I originally did it on a stick ish truck 351w. And it probably would have been okay but the moment I went to a 393w i had to create my Frankenstein EFI to have better air flow.

This should help. Let me know if you have any questions Treadmill conversion FAQ 4. What if anything can I do with the incline motor? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pN2UZLNnyKutg4E.html

@@dazecars I appreciate the link. I've seen those videos, but unfortunately they don't cover what I am asking about.

If you want a momentary and a direction switch you need to wire them in series.

Happy to help

Glad you enjoyed it

the stroke on the master is a 1.430 in

How much stroke is required at the slave to actuate the clutch. With that information we can work backwards.

@@dazecars 1.430

No not the mc stroke. How much is required at the slave to actuate the clutch. In other words the minimum amount of movement at the clutch fork to get the clutch to engage.

Glad it was helpful. Let me know if any questions arise as you start the process.

yes but it will be harder to get started