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@luizbomeny9941
@luizbomeny9941 19 күн бұрын
hey man, nice vid! how do you unload the tension on the roll n lock to disengage it when transitioning to rapel? many thanks
@beyondthepale2023
@beyondthepale2023 4 ай бұрын
From my experience the roll'n'lock an oval is the optimum shape for this device
@sciencesaves
@sciencesaves 6 ай бұрын
I top rope solo bc I don’t trust anyone but me with my life. This was a good video 👍 I usually climb with just a kong duck, then I use grigri to abseil, but I think I’ll pick up one of those other ascenders on a dog tie for backup like you’re doing. Great idea.
@tiborseilern5018
@tiborseilern5018 7 ай бұрын
To rely on letting go when system fail - is rather blue eyed. Normal panic reaction is to hold everything even tighter and pull towards yourself....
@outdoorgirls1563
@outdoorgirls1563 11 ай бұрын
The reason for a static rope is you won't lose as much of your progress if you take a fall. :) I use the traxion too as my backup.
@Lambda25
@Lambda25 Жыл бұрын
Very clear and well thought-out, thanks for the video. Only comment is that I would suggest you equalise your anchors at the top with a non extending setup (just a fig-8 on a bite for example). Here you show a sliding x, you have 'limiter' knots but they are too far away imo. If the top bolt fails (unlikely, yes, especially when only top roping but..) with that much separation between the bolts there's' a high chance that sling will fail from the shock load of all that extension.
@beyondthepale2023
@beyondthepale2023 4 ай бұрын
You know what a fixed point or "banshee belay" set up is?
@Dirtos
@Dirtos Жыл бұрын
a tip I heard recently to avoid falling of the end of your rope, put the ends up with two figure eights so you have a loop hanging down. impossible to fall of that.
@getahanddown
@getahanddown Жыл бұрын
So many issues in this anchor setup. You've added knots to the sling but they are so high there will still be a big shock load on static gear. Your bina clipped direct to the bottom rap ring would be easier and safer! In this setup use 2 binas and 2 8's - one for each line - you are one bina and a knot away from a true redundant anchor. Think about not using the grigri on a biner you use for rope too (the wear marks are visible) use a dedicated biner for each item not quickdraws as holders, you'll get whipped in the knee by some solid metal.
@jog-h7139
@jog-h7139 Жыл бұрын
something you could try would be isolating both ends of your rope, with 2 figure 8s in the top, with a bit of slack between them. that way if the knot breaks you still have the other strand
@someoneelse1904
@someoneelse1904 Жыл бұрын
It’s worth noting that Yannis from Bliss Climbing found a failure mode for the roll n lock where, in the event the device gets twisted, the rope can get caught on the smooth plate on the inside and cause it not to lock. Seems like a super robust and redundant system though so I’d imagine that’s a pretty small issue.
@NPC-fl3gq
@NPC-fl3gq 11 ай бұрын
That only occurs with certain diameters, but if you're worried about that you can grind the offending piece off (only necessary on one side - so the device can still retain it's full functionality). From memory only one of the "tabs" or whatever you want to call them needs to be removed (not even removed, just ground down to the point that the rope cannot get a hold on it).
@RicTodhunter
@RicTodhunter Жыл бұрын
Using a static rope is so that there is significantly more limited rubbing of rope on any rock surfaces that it might go over. Dynamic rope stretch means that rope will move in a vertical direction at anytime there is variation in the weight applied on the rope. This potentially happens even in the normal motion of top rope soloing without taking a fall but is significant with any fall. Vertical wearing of rope on rock is just as dangerous as horizontal wearing (which is the direction everone means when discussing rope rubbing against a rock edge) with respect to rope damage. Using a static rope essentially eliminates that risk.
@TknJn
@TknJn Жыл бұрын
Hi Leo! demo test falls if you are showing a TRS / LS method please! {test a catch on each device separately + both together} (Magic X / Sliding X limit knot position pulled up elsewhere in comments, can you put an over text on the video acknowledging that this should not be copied & why) sorry to sound like a miserable moaning H&S muppet! [you have a crossed strand on your fig8 On the Bight! that will be a git to undo. what about a pair of fig8OtB's so each line is more redundant?] have good sends! :-j
@miketan4803
@miketan4803 Жыл бұрын
Great video. Newbie here - if they are spaced up and down, connected in this way, will it be sharing the load or multiplying load onto bottom one? That part about stressing out when no one to help if anything went wrong really resonated with my own experience!
@natebracalente2754
@natebracalente2754 Жыл бұрын
I love the title of your video. So unassuming
@TR-nw8hz
@TR-nw8hz Жыл бұрын
Need two lockers at your masterpoint. But thats just standard anchor rules that you should already know
@ryanmoser6246
@ryanmoser6246 Жыл бұрын
2 non lockers or one locker is standard anchor practice. But 2 lockers makes for peace of mind!
@jeffchapman9306
@jeffchapman9306 Жыл бұрын
Chest harness with a petzl croll or basic asceder on one line anchored to seat harness via leg and waste loops, back up on the other line is a tibloc on a energy absorber (petzl asap would be ideal but $$) attatched via belay loop. The benefit to my system is that its safe, redundant, uses a secondary rope/back up. And there is no falling or shock loading the system, because your primary device is an ascender on a chest harness, there is no slack between the rope and ascender like there often is with any device dangling below you while your solo climbing. I prefer the tibloc to a microtraxion as its more fool proof and the teeth/cam cant be disengaged like on the traxion... Also coil your rope and hang it about 2ft off the ground to tension the rope so the devices slide easier...
@StavroginProductions
@StavroginProductions Жыл бұрын
Great video
@linzh2753
@linzh2753 2 жыл бұрын
I feel your top rope master point is horrible with too less redundancy…
@richardbennett5115
@richardbennett5115 2 жыл бұрын
your fear of the two devices blocking each other is justified. nice workaround!
@dereksantavenere2172
@dereksantavenere2172 2 жыл бұрын
i use almost the same set up with the way you attach to your harness and everything- the only additional things i do to add redundancy is tie a double figue 8 to make redundant loops and i used the second biner at that master point - good video tho keeps it safe and simple
@GiorgosPlanar
@GiorgosPlanar 2 жыл бұрын
Great video. Your system seems both practical with good built in redindancy. Looking forward to use it due to shortage of partners and erratic personal schedules. Just secretly hoping to be able to climb hard as well or at least train moves on hard projects for later sending properly...
@stefanomorandi7150
@stefanomorandi7150 2 жыл бұрын
interesting video, where was this specifically in lake como?
@jamesward3567
@jamesward3567 2 жыл бұрын
Hey, great video. Keep up the great content! Just wanted to add something. For your secondary device, Petzl recommends using an energy absorber like the Nitro Absorber instead of a sling if using a toothed secondary. If the first device fails you could potentially take a factor 2 fall (2x connector length) on the secondary device and the cams teeth can damage the sheath. Petzl did some tests on this and 185cm of sheath were torn in the test. They recommend using a cam-loaded secondary (rescuscender) if not using the energy absorber. Keep up the great climbing and content!
@smokingbluegrass
@smokingbluegrass Жыл бұрын
He's toproping mate. A factor 2 fall can only be created when lead climbing past (above) your last anchor. I get that if the primary failed he'd be above or parralell with his secondary but still not enough of a fall to create a factor 2. That said, the closer to the anchor the more your comment would come into play. and on another note, take a file and soften out the teeth, it still grabs but not so aggressively.
@alexcole8438
@alexcole8438 11 ай бұрын
Yes thats true going up, but using it as like a towed backup device coming down is a bit dodgy. Not really dodgy because hes got good anchors and coming down on a solid descender, but dodgy because in the event he needed the traction as a backup he wouldve already accelerated pretty fast before releasing(if he even does let go) the teath. That said i think everything he did was safe and I wouldve just not mentioned the fact the toothed device is acting as a backup when he releases it.@@smokingbluegrass
@luispablosaavedraplancarte6055
@luispablosaavedraplancarte6055 2 жыл бұрын
What's the difference between using a micro traction and an ascender like the ropeman from wild country?
@MrLeobedford
@MrLeobedford 2 жыл бұрын
no idea! I have only used the micro traxion, and the petzl shunt. The shunt was retired as it does not glide smoothly up the rope. Some people tie or weight their rope at the bottom, but this was always a big PITA for me. These two devices slide up nicely, and do not require any weighting of the rope.
@adaptivo3692
@adaptivo3692 2 жыл бұрын
This looks thought out and seems to be safe enough to my eyes. I would rule out the extension potential at the bolts but that’s just me and it’s been said already. Looks lovely out there.. nice..
@adaptivo3692
@adaptivo3692 2 жыл бұрын
I’ve used a shunt on a weighted single rope without incident and many falls (top roping). I’m fully aware that this constitutes a use of the shunt out with petzl user instructions and am aware that one rope is well… one rope, as in no backup.
@GregSidberry
@GregSidberry 2 жыл бұрын
Well done. Found consistent TRS/LS sessions are key to getting past the headiness of rope solo. Definitely start below grade.
@chavenord
@chavenord 2 жыл бұрын
This video is complete rubbish and you are taking your life into your own hands when you use non-rated pulleys and traction devices to withstand climbing falls. These devices are not designed nor tested to take factor falls and can and will damage ropes even if they don't themselves fail. It's bad enough to use a grigri for solo climbing but to rely on non-rated pulleys is just absurd. People like this should not be posting on you tube.
@richardshields6166
@richardshields6166 2 жыл бұрын
I agree, for top rope solo this looks like the best technique yet...simple and safe
@Lskm99
@Lskm99 2 жыл бұрын
Great video mate thanks
@lucaslothbrook5388
@lucaslothbrook5388 2 жыл бұрын
Using a shunt is really nice because when you're ready to rap down you just extend your atc and use the shunt normally. No need to remove any devices. Just disengage your rollnlock or micro Trax.
@eranschnecke
@eranschnecke 2 жыл бұрын
The Shunt device is not safe for top rope backup, and not ment to be used in this manner. It is intended for use UNDER a friction device while rappeling. Please watch: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/js5liK1_29iwh4E.html&ab_channel=YannCamusBlissClimbing
@lucaslothbrook5388
@lucaslothbrook5388 2 жыл бұрын
Static lines will not have crazy rope stretch that needs to be removed from the sysyem when tr soloing.
@iloveadventures6710
@iloveadventures6710 2 жыл бұрын
I just went back to rope after 21 years... didn't know of this technique, thank-you!!!!
@aliciajy1860
@aliciajy1860 2 жыл бұрын
Great vid! What is the big blue biner you use for the main device?
@masonburke
@masonburke 2 жыл бұрын
Really good info. Was wondering do you tie stopped knots as you go or just the end knots at the very ends of your rope?
@escaladaseguraamimanera3621
@escaladaseguraamimanera3621 2 жыл бұрын
thanks for the video
@drevil2783
@drevil2783 2 жыл бұрын
Please show us how the rope system was anchored. I'm a 50 something newbie
@drevil2783
@drevil2783 2 жыл бұрын
Next time just use the steps😆😆😆😆😆
@carrotsclimb4930
@carrotsclimb4930 2 жыл бұрын
Great video! Do you weight the rope at the base?
@MrLeobedford
@MrLeobedford 2 жыл бұрын
no, I do not. I used to, but it never seem to do help, and did make things more complex. If you use somethign like the Micro Trax, is has so little friction that you do not need any more weight than the rope already has.
@bboyorc
@bboyorc 2 жыл бұрын
I learned kind of on my own. All you is a top rope setup with anchor and a gri gri. Everyone makes it so complicated lol
@aaronmcdaniel2364
@aaronmcdaniel2364 2 жыл бұрын
Lol ur my kind of asshole, I don't think we're supposed to admit that u only used 1 way to attach to the rope and probably had to manage the rope for the first few meters
@outer4560
@outer4560 Жыл бұрын
no backup in case of grigri not locking?
@PatchBOTS
@PatchBOTS 2 жыл бұрын
Great video! Very informative
@bonefishboards
@bonefishboards 2 жыл бұрын
Back up your belay/rappel loop with a loop of 9/16" supertape or 6mm Perlon. Don't be Todd Skinner.
@alexkoukarine9131
@alexkoukarine9131 2 жыл бұрын
Audio OK video bs.
@calebhark6653
@calebhark6653 3 жыл бұрын
Would this work for Ice climbing
@andrewsinger7824
@andrewsinger7824 3 жыл бұрын
Great Video. I've run into the issue of lack of partners and have been contemplating Rope Solo for a bit. Loved this. Question though: Are you adding any weight/ a sand bag at either ends of the ropes at the bottom?
@MrLeobedford
@MrLeobedford 3 жыл бұрын
No I am not... I used to do that, but I found it was a big time PITA, and did not really add much. After you get about 3m up the rope, there is weight beneath you in trailing rope pull through. However, the big caveat is that you need "easy-running" ascenders. Something like the Petzl shunt (which I also have) is super draggy, so you would need to weight the line.
@alo-vs2kh
@alo-vs2kh 3 жыл бұрын
Great tips to rope solo
@MrLeobedford
@MrLeobedford 3 жыл бұрын
Appreciate it!
@kiefmanning7394
@kiefmanning7394 3 жыл бұрын
Nice explanation but I would suggest moving that knot on the right side of the anchor a bit closer. Would probably never fail but quite a bit of extension if that bolt blows. Again probably would never happen with such low forces. Thanks for the video
@MrLeobedford
@MrLeobedford 3 жыл бұрын
yep you're definitely right. I did, however, recently watch a video on the How Not to Highline channel which slightly blew my mind... it showed that putting knots in the slings reduced their strength by 50%. I am thinking maybe now I would prefer to risk the shock load if a bolt were to break (unlikely), rather than risk the certainty of reducing the strength of my sling by 50%, by putting a knot in it. Confusing times.
@johnliungman1333
@johnliungman1333 3 жыл бұрын
Very nice! Good to see you using two ropes. It might look cluttered but adds a lot of safety and makes transitions to/from abseiling a whole lot smoother! The only time I would use only one rope would be if the route is too long to double up my rope.
@zachreese5998
@zachreese5998 3 жыл бұрын
It's only one rope
@johnliungman1333
@johnliungman1333 3 жыл бұрын
@@zachreese5998 Its one rope, doubled. Which in terms of technique and safety is equivalent to using two ropes.
@adaptivo3692
@adaptivo3692 2 жыл бұрын
It’s 2 strands but one knot therefore not 2 independent ropes. Not a criticism of the system, just a point to note re your comment. If everything between the belay loop up to and including the bolts is doubled, that’s independence. Not a requirement for a personal setup obviously.
@ellewongpy
@ellewongpy 3 жыл бұрын
Hi, can this setup be used with 2 rollnlock instead? Worried about the micro traxion teeth
@MrLeobedford
@MrLeobedford 3 жыл бұрын
Yep I think so. Maybe check how much the Roll n Lock is rated for? I have not tested it in any scientific way, but for some reason, I get the feeling the Micro Trax is a safer device. I will also say that so far it has not damaged my rope... but also I have not taken any significant fall, AND I use the roll n lock as the primary, and the microtrax as the backup.
@alfredodigregorio5644
@alfredodigregorio5644 3 жыл бұрын
Nobiallo is a perfect spot for TRS 👍🏻 Have fun and stay safe!
@MrLeobedford
@MrLeobedford 3 жыл бұрын
ha! You found me!