Buy a new switch made in China cheap put it on, why spend all day testing it?
@joshuaortega872323 күн бұрын
I just changed started thinking it was bad and it wasn’t, the new one and old one just spin but won’t crank can anyone help?
@Joshua_Hammer.77723 күн бұрын
I have 07 jeep patriot 2.0 will a 140 amp alternator be fine the parts store offers 120&140 but I found a 140 at a salvage yard with low mileage and way cheaper but ive herd it will be fine and not overload anything Thanks
@NobleAutomotive23 күн бұрын
@Joshua_Hammer.777 I think. If it was me and it looked good with low mileage, I would do it, but I would want to make sure they would take it back if it didn't work. What would be good if you could take it to some place that can test it with it off the car, like a starter Alternator., rebuilder or one of the Part.houses.
@Otobokebeaver25 күн бұрын
Did you have to replace your intake manifold too? How do I know if that’s going bad in the volt?
@NobleAutomotive25 күн бұрын
@Otobokebeaver No, I think it's mostly a Turbo charge engine, and the volt is not. I could pull my dipstick slightly out and the engine was stalled. Thank you for your question.
@Otobokebeaver25 күн бұрын
@@NobleAutomotive ok because AutoZone said this regarding the valve cover: Related repair - this valve cover often fails due to a faulty intake manifold; also replace manifold if it is missing PCV valve
@ryanortega7053Ай бұрын
Good Morning James, I've been working on my 2000 Silverado for two days now. The troubleshooting began with a blown compressor belt, which I replaced. Then I replaced the spring tensioner (worn). After that, I applied R134a, but the compressor didn't engage. I replaced the compressor, low-pressure switch, high-pressure switch, and even the switch on the back of the compressor. I began recharging the system, but the low pressure is at 90 psi and the high pressure is at 0. Should I jump the compressor to suck out the R134a? I've also removed and cleaned the ground for the wire harness. I'm at a standstill and need help. I've already swapped out relays and verified that all fuses are intact. Thank you for any advice.
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
@@ryanortega7053 Did you jump the compressor at the relay? If you jump it at the relay and your Compressor engages. harness is good going to your compressor it should run no matter how much Refrigerant. are any of the other sensors are good or not.
@ryanortega7053Ай бұрын
@@NobleAutomotiveI did not jump from relay. I jumped from low pressure switch. All sensors have been replaced
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
@ryanortega7053 The ECM controls the relay. So, do you have a check engine light? Do you have a scanner that will read the engine temperature? If so, the temperature must be below 250, and I think above 40° before it allowed the compressor to run, and I think around 270 before it'll set a code for overtemp And does your temperature gauge seem normal?
@ryanortega7053Ай бұрын
I do not have a check engine light I’m sure I can get get my hands on a scanner…. Temp gauge seems normal. Needle lands right before half way point
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
@@ryanortega7053 I don't know if you've seen my other videos. But this video shows you how to jump across your relay.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gcuAo8Kn2LjOoZc.htmlsi=H1DROCE81WX0lmFW
@amoreno420420Ай бұрын
Sir, you have done your job! 💤💤💤💤💤💤💤💤😵😵😵
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
LOL🤣
@Afrattzz1Ай бұрын
Hey Mr. Nobile. 04 trailblazer. No compressor engagement. I hear a click when jumping the relay but it’s very faint. Pressure without engine running is about 100psi on both sides.
@Afrattzz1Ай бұрын
Thanks Mr. Noble, you’re a great teacher
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
@@Afrattzz1 Thank you, sir.
@derekgriffith4324Ай бұрын
While your in there. When you get the old ones out. Tap those bosses 10mm x1.5 their very tourqe sensitive and the threads need to be right to be able to do that correctly
@tylerjohnson1776Ай бұрын
Ok niw what about the controls side of the circuit i can force my system and it works perfect but i have no safetys like that
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
@@tylerjohnson1776 Here's a link. To my other video concerning your condition.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gcuAo8Kn2LjOoZc.htmlsi=mHLzfwVi5LvpMuNS
@user-ks4sm2lo1nАй бұрын
Crank fuse keeps blowing every time upon startup, no power to 85 pin on crank all other pins are functional. Used test light to check ground, ign 1 from ignition switch and power to nss all good. I’d assume if the power is getting there the ignition is functional? Otherwise wouldn’t it just never make it?
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
Sense how the crank fuse sends power to, the neutral safety switch. I would think they shouldn't be any power on the neutral safety switch to that pin, they'll be power coming to the neutral safety switch for other things such as back up lights. Have you tried it with the relay out? Have you tried in any other gear besides park? Is this a 2001 1500?
@jessecramer789Ай бұрын
Hello James, checked the compressor clutch and it jumps when jumping the relay, checking the low pressure switch I'm getting less the 5 volts with key on nothing else. When i check resistance on the ground side I get 6.4 resistance. Check resistance on the 12v side I get .00. Done alittle more and check continuity of the wire over by the fuse box and it seem's good showing .00. So does this mean my PCM is bad since its not throwing 12v to the low pressure switch? This is a 06 wt 1500 4.3 the wires on the low pressure switch are blue/ground black/12v. I might be doing something wrong Your video's have been so helpful I cant leave my truck in the shop due to working out of it everyday. Thanks for your help
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
The circuit for the low pressure switch didn't actually go to the ECM on your model. It goes to the control head inside your cab. What I would do with it plugged in and engine running I would take one side of my meter to the good ground. Set my voltage to 20 V scale with the engine running and probe each side to see. I should near zero voltage less than a half a volt if you're getting volts more than .5 V then the pressure switch is open. In most cases that indicate low refrigerant You can also take your meter set it to the lowest scale on resistance unplug the switch check from one side of the switch to the other side with you two probes and you should get very low resistance if your resistance is high, you either got a bad switch or low refrigerant. If this checks OK, then your problem is somewheres else.in
@jessecramer789Ай бұрын
Thanks for the reply. I have no resistance in the switch and truck running the blue wire to the low pressure is .150-.180 and .000 on the black wire. I have lights on the control I've actually switched it with a different control and nothing changed. Also the fans don't kick on with the ac. Don't know if that means anything or not? Thanks for your help!
@jdodell3956Ай бұрын
Dude....excellent video! I know very little about vehicle mechanics, and you walked me through troubleshooting my Silverado A/C issue. Thanks a bunch!
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
Thank you, appreciate you.
@eddiejeselink2996Ай бұрын
Great video.
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
Thank you
@Sarstan2 ай бұрын
My pressure switch went out. A $20 part I found out after replacing the clutch and still not working. To test that, unplug the switch (mine was on the accumulator) and jump the connector. Fire it up with the AC on and if the clutch engages, there's the problem. I bought this 95 K1500 last week and I guess they ran it dry because it also needed to be recharged. Perhaps that's why it failed as well. Either way, simple test, easy to replace (on mine it has a valve that won't lose refrigerant), and about $20 for me.
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
Very good Nice job.
@kirkmann17552 ай бұрын
There is another video with same information that’s around 3 minutes long …17 minutes is to much extra Good accuracy videos but sometimes you gotta watch a couple to find out your true issue. If they are all 15 to 20 minutes. Well. It’s horrible. Short to the point vids please.
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
Thank you.
@dmalott09082 ай бұрын
DANG! This is the most informative walk through of a crank no start I've seen yet. Very thorough and easy to follow. Thank you for putting this together!
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
Thank you very much
@jjlittle812 ай бұрын
I replaced both, with the harness all a/c delco new. Codes came back fairly quickly. 327&332 low voltage. Both new ones ohmed out at high 900’s. Where does the low voltage come from? My next thought is to start going through all of the multi pack connectors and ecm connections looking for corrosion. Any other ideas? Anyone?
@user-bm3bf1qz8z2 ай бұрын
Ty this will give me an idea why the ac clutch is working but no cold ac thanks again
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
You are welcome. I hope it helps.
@craigjoe86912 ай бұрын
Who removed the coolant cap bracket? If its low on coolant gotta make sure it aint leaking into the battery.
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
I bought it used so it didn't have the bracket. It's funny you should say so. Because the coolant got low enough. I got an isolation fault, which I'm investigating now even after filling it up with cooling. I still have an isolation fault, and I did check the battery drain and found no moisture in the battery.
@SMAAirAssault2 ай бұрын
Appreciate the content, love the explanation behind everything too.
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
Thank you for watching and thank you for your comment.
@toothnfang692 ай бұрын
Thanks buddy!
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
Thank you.
@watertech0112 ай бұрын
Thank you. Very straightforward and informative content. Keep up the good work!
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
Thank you, and thank you for your comment.
@hdc68392 ай бұрын
So what if no power at all on the crank fuse inside and no power to ecm fuses under the hood
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
Have you checked ignition C fuse under the hood fuse block this fuse actually feeds the ignition switch to the ECM as well as the starter ignition crank circuit Ignition 1 relay actually powers up ECM 1 fuse
@DIGOLOGIST2 ай бұрын
Great video James. I have a 2000 Silverado and I think I can find the problem now, thanks to you.
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
Thank you.
@danwat12342 ай бұрын
3:49 10mm nutz ty!
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
You are welcome.
@timfreedom94322 ай бұрын
HOW TO PREVENT IT: Solution: Next fill-up use premium gas. It will help prevent misfires / engine knocks from low octane gas.
@joeroe28393 ай бұрын
My 6.0 has been gettin a p0300 and with the test key bump is 45 then i tuen it over and its 45 and when i rev it , it goes to 40 it seems like it gives it less pressure..pump is like couple yrs old but its been parked for like 2 yrs i think the pump w bad
@NobleAutomotive3 ай бұрын
Be sure to check your fuel filter. Cause it might be trying to stop up. You're not getting enough flow.
@joeroe28393 ай бұрын
@@NobleAutomotive new filter too I thought it might ve been that but it ain't still.same pressures . I think it's m y pump
@NobleAutomotive3 ай бұрын
@@joeroe2839 Yeah, does sound that way or there's Screen. on the bottom of the pump sucking together? Either way, it's a new pump.
@joeroe28392 ай бұрын
@@NobleAutomotive yess sir ima have to get it warrantied new parts are not the same nomore 😪 thanx for answering!!! God bless
@NobleAutomotive2 ай бұрын
@@joeroe2839 You are welcome.
@calicrewchief3 ай бұрын
What voltage were you getting out of the good sensor when you were doing the knock test?
@scottcorrell31393 ай бұрын
touch my like thingy that you?
@fabworldweldingllc61503 ай бұрын
Is removing the water pump mandatory to do this. Or just recommended because your already there at it. Just wondering because there was a timing belt replacement done on my van and now there is coolant and overheating issues. Just trying to get a clear picture of what might have been done to this thing from previous owner so i know what im getting into. What i need to check etc
@fabworldweldingllc61503 ай бұрын
Also very clear and consice video. Well shot great detail. Very informative and descriptive. 👍
@NobleAutomotive3 ай бұрын
It's just highly recommended if you replace it as well then. Usually, you've got a 100000 miles before. You have to do it again? I would be sure the Pulley is tight. And there's no coolant leaks from the weep hole. I personally wouldn't do it without replacing a water pump.
@PeterHernandez-lg2ehАй бұрын
Slowly doing this job for my son inlaw. Engine mount bolts siezed and snapped off
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh I have been there of course I work for Toyota. I just ordered a new bracket, but it looks like Amazon has them in stock for about 50 bucks. That would be the only way I know to go unless you wanna go eBay and get a used one. Sometimes it's just unavoidable. Sorry.
@NobleAutomotiveАй бұрын
@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh been there myself it's been a while, but I I worked for Toyota so I just ordered new one and the bolts. I don't really know what they cost, but that's only option.
@dalatina9113 ай бұрын
I have no power going to my crank fuse while cranking the engine and no power going to #85 pin of the starter relay. Ignition C fuse does have power though. I’m confused, what do I need to check? The NSS or ignition switch?
@NobleAutomotive3 ай бұрын
I would check the Ignition switch and see if that power is coming into and coming out of it Because.Ignition fuse feeds directly from the Ignition switch. This fuse feeds power to the neutral safety switch. So you need power to this fuse before it goes to the neutral safety switch. You can't have power to your neutral safety switch until you have power to this fuse first. I would especially check the connection on the Ignition switch.
@dalatina9113 ай бұрын
@@NobleAutomotive that makes perfect sense, thank you!!! I shall check that tomorrow, pray for me that I find the problem ❤️
@NobleAutomotive3 ай бұрын
@@dalatina911 I will, and you are welcome.
@dalatina9113 ай бұрын
This is great information and explained very well ❤ I’m having this issue with my grandma’s truck. I found that there is no power going to the crank fuse - I swapped the fuse twice and it still has no power while cranking the key. Any ideas on where to start with that?
@NobleAutomotive3 ай бұрын
Does everything turn on when you turn your switch on you? Might check your Ignition. switch fuses.
@dalatina9113 ай бұрын
@@NobleAutomotive you mean when I turn the key? Yes, dash lights come on and everything else but no crank no start - but after following your video, I found that the #85 pin on the starter relay also has no power when turning the key to start. I’m not really good at following the wiring diagram stuff, but I was thinking I should check the ignition switch next? All other fuses are good, except the crank fuse and the #85 pin on starter relay (:
@NobleAutomotive3 ай бұрын
@@dalatina911 Now, do you have the crank fuse power to it when you try to crank?
@NobleAutomotive3 ай бұрын
The 20 amp Ignition c fuse under the hood feeds Ignition. Switch to the 10 amp at your Dash outside out to that pin.
@dalatina9113 ай бұрын
@@NobleAutomotive no sir, it does not have power when I crank the engine. You want me to swap the 20amp Ignition C fuse with the crank fuse? Just wanna make sure I understand correctly haha the ignition c fuse has power
@mrunning103 ай бұрын
how come EVERY vid for sienna timing belt never mentions the timing belt cover removal?
@bert197614 ай бұрын
Was there a follow up on where the nss to pin 85 i have power on the out going side but wire changes color from pink to yellow w black stripe don't have a clue where that happens
@NobleAutomotive4 ай бұрын
Now the color coming out of your neutral safety switch to pin 85 of your starter relay should be yellow and the color going to your neutral safety switch coming from your crank fuse should purple with a white strap, or it may look pink. So I take it that you have no power on pin 85?
@bert197614 ай бұрын
They are actually both purple. Lol I looked at three diagram with a connector view so both pin 11 &12 are ignition in and out so the out changes to a yellow/black stripe at the relay I pulled up the fuse box
@wncrcandoffroad39193 ай бұрын
I'm having same issue, everything tests good except for the nss pin. I just put a transmission in this thing and it was starting fine before now I get nothing at the key. All fuses and pins are doing what they're supposed to except for 85
@bert197613 ай бұрын
So I did have a green wire out to computer the wire diagram I had was not right
@NobleAutomotive3 ай бұрын
@@wncrcandoffroad3919 sometimes a neutral safety switch pigtail is so hard to push in. I wonder if you've got it all the way inserted. Are you using the same neutral safety switch to come off your old transmission?
@Maidoumurnot4 ай бұрын
Great video!
@NobleAutomotive4 ай бұрын
Thank you.
@SamMcintare4 ай бұрын
I have no power on low pressure switch. And when I ground the relay the pump will kick in
@stillwill18084 ай бұрын
Water freezes at 32 degrees so a 30 degree evap coil is going to freeze up. You will also be returning liquid to the compressor. Liquid cannot be compressed and is a leading cause of premature compressor failure. You can't properly evacuate, diagnose, or repair a sealed system using only low side pressure readings. They install hi side service ports for a reason. It can reveal other potential issues like dirty cond coil, inefficient compressor, plugged orifice tube, proper charge. Its also necessary during evacuation and charging. Use application specific o-rings. Refrigerant oil will degrade the seal and create leaks if they are not compatible and the correct ones will ensure a proper fit preventing leaks. If you open the system replace the filter/dryer. Moisture mixing with refrigerant doesn't freeze as you stated but it can create acid which is worse and the non-condensables decrease system performance. The only way to ensure all moisture is removed from the system prior to refilling is by using a micron guage during evacuation. It also reveals very small leaks immediately. Leave the infrared in the tool box. They are unable to read air temp and the beam reflects off of the tubing causing you the erratic temp fluctuations you were seeing on yours. Supply air temp is decent way to determine how well system is cooling but the rest of those readings werent really useful for.this job neither is voltage reading at the pressure switch. Using a clamp on type temp probe for the tubing and an air sensing thermometer in the vents will give you a more realistic reading. Weigh in as much of your charge thru hi side service port as possible before running the a/c instead of introducing that liquid refrigerant into your compressor while its running. Weigh in the FULL charge that is specified plus around 1 Oz to account for what remains in your high side hose. Make sure cond and evap coils and cabin air filter are clean prior to charging as these significantly affect your operating pressures. The settings should be on max cool, recirculate, and all doors and windows need to be closed while charging. This isn't a get it close kind of repair. Whenever a sealed system is opened up great care must be be taken to ensure it remains contaminant and leak free and properly refilled.
@NobleAutomotive4 ай бұрын
I love that you took this much time and passion to write this article on the repair in my video. I do appreciate all your input as I'm sure anybody else that reads it. Thank you so much for your contribution.
@SchiZ034 ай бұрын
was it the water pump gasket?
@NobleAutomotive4 ай бұрын
yes it was the gaskets. After sitting for a couple days i would see a spot under the front of the truck then when I took a closer look, I seen where it was actually coming from between the pump and the block thank you for your question
@junedetla33244 ай бұрын
Yikes
@basilmacgill4 ай бұрын
You must have known I'm having issues where can I buy this👌🏾
@NobleAutomotive4 ай бұрын
Autozone's where I got mine for a $125.
@jessesarrett947729 күн бұрын
Was that each or for 2@@NobleAutomotive
@NobleAutomotive29 күн бұрын
@@basilmacgill I got mine for 125 at autozone.
@Mybackpack1234 ай бұрын
Some of your torque specs (cam sprockets & idler pulley) are WAY off. Other than that - very informative. Thx
@NobleAutomotive4 ай бұрын
I see it in newton meters Thank you
@Juan-je4re5 ай бұрын
Hey can you help me? I went to go look at a 2000 4.8L Chevy Silverado. And whenever the truck was idling, it would drop then come back up. What does this mean?
@guerostacoshop98495 ай бұрын
I changed twist and the problem still an my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 I test and give me 1500 onna stii the check engine I don't know what it's the problem??
@NobleAutomotive5 ай бұрын
Did you change the harness to.
@-8_8-5 ай бұрын
Ok, so if I understand you, the PCV vent will produce suction if the diaphragm is broken instead of just letting air out. So far what I have is noise when ice shuts off only, and smoke from the dipstick tube. I want to be sure I understand the PCV symptom before removing parts.
@-8_8-5 ай бұрын
I really appreciate the video. Mine is at 158k, and this issue is just starting. I only hear it when I take my foot off the gas. It's a little concerning, what you're talking about with the crank seal. Is that something that you think should be done after PCV replacement, or just this car?
@NobleAutomotive5 ай бұрын
Yes, there's TSB that to replace the crank seal. I hadn't replaced mine yet, but after replacing the PCV system, I will still hear it slightly from time to time.
@-8_8-5 ай бұрын
@@NobleAutomotivewhat was that silicone you were talking about? Didn't look like you used any gasket sealer, just a black silicone? NM, I see you said elsewhere that you use RTV.
@NobleAutomotive5 ай бұрын
Yeah, that's just where the front cover meets the head. Put A small amount of RTV or silicone, just a small dab. But none on the rest of the gasket. Usually, you can see where old gasket material is like silicone. Clean the old material off. And that's where I put a A small amount.. where the 2 pieces meet each other, because the rubber won't go down in the seams
@wolfewispr5 ай бұрын
Hey James, thank you for this video. i've got a 507 code on my 1998 pontiac firebird 3.8l. I recently replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets and the car started throwing a p0304 and p0507 code. i've smoke tested the vacuum lines and gaskets no leaks. no oil in radiator and no water in oil. but the car will idle high when cold, 2k rpms then comes down when it warms up. i unplugged the iac while running and the car idles real high and goes back down when plugged in. The car idles at 750 rpms when warm. It has a misfire i'm working through cylinder 4 now, coil is good, i tested the ohms on the iac 66.8 ohms on both sets of connectors with the meter set at 200 ohms. so i think the meter setting is wrong. shows 0 at 200k and 2000k ohms 62 at 2000 ohm setting. (cheap meter) is this iac good or bad? hopefully you'll reply. if not i understand. i'm disabled and can't afford to take it to a shop....
@kelboo79085 ай бұрын
Very informative thank you!
@NobleAutomotive5 ай бұрын
thank you !
@kelboo79085 ай бұрын
Also question... I installed a new started and trying to see if it's my ignition switch that's failing or it is something else so I'm in the same situation... I got a donor 2000 Silverado just like the one I have so should I try to take the ignition switch off of that truck and put it in the one I'm working on to see if that will let me start my truck or should I? I don't know anything else you could tell me
@NobleAutomotive5 ай бұрын
Here is a link to check your ignition switch. time at 2:09 So you wont have to pull any parts. you also check your neutral safety switch kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fMqWjbijzL-qXWw.html