Buy a new switch made in China cheap put it on, why spend all day testing it?

I just changed started thinking it was bad and it wasn’t, the new one and old one just spin but won’t crank can anyone help?

I have 07 jeep patriot 2.0 will a 140 amp alternator be fine the parts store offers 120&140 but I found a 140 at a salvage yard with low mileage and way cheaper but ive herd it will be fine and not overload anything Thanks

Did you have to replace your intake manifold too? How do I know if that’s going bad in the volt?

Good Morning James, I've been working on my 2000 Silverado for two days now. The troubleshooting began with a blown compressor belt, which I replaced. Then I replaced the spring tensioner (worn). After that, I applied R134a, but the compressor didn't engage. I replaced the compressor, low-pressure switch, high-pressure switch, and even the switch on the back of the compressor. I began recharging the system, but the low pressure is at 90 psi and the high pressure is at 0. Should I jump the compressor to suck out the R134a? I've also removed and cleaned the ground for the wire harness. I'm at a standstill and need help. I've already swapped out relays and verified that all fuses are intact. Thank you for any advice.

Sir, you have done your job! 💤💤💤💤💤💤💤💤😵😵😵

Hey Mr. Nobile. 04 trailblazer. No compressor engagement. I hear a click when jumping the relay but it’s very faint. Pressure without engine running is about 100psi on both sides.

Thanks Mr. Noble, you’re a great teacher

While your in there. When you get the old ones out. Tap those bosses 10mm x1.5 their very tourqe sensitive and the threads need to be right to be able to do that correctly

Ok niw what about the controls side of the circuit i can force my system and it works perfect but i have no safetys like that

Crank fuse keeps blowing every time upon startup, no power to 85 pin on crank all other pins are functional. Used test light to check ground, ign 1 from ignition switch and power to nss all good. I’d assume if the power is getting there the ignition is functional? Otherwise wouldn’t it just never make it?

Hello James, checked the compressor clutch and it jumps when jumping the relay, checking the low pressure switch I'm getting less the 5 volts with key on nothing else. When i check resistance on the ground side I get 6.4 resistance. Check resistance on the 12v side I get .00. Done alittle more and check continuity of the wire over by the fuse box and it seem's good showing .00. So does this mean my PCM is bad since its not throwing 12v to the low pressure switch? This is a 06 wt 1500 4.3 the wires on the low pressure switch are blue/ground black/12v. I might be doing something wrong Your video's have been so helpful I cant leave my truck in the shop due to working out of it everyday. Thanks for your help

Dude....excellent video! I know very little about vehicle mechanics, and you walked me through troubleshooting my Silverado A/C issue. Thanks a bunch!

Great video.

My pressure switch went out. A $20 part I found out after replacing the clutch and still not working. To test that, unplug the switch (mine was on the accumulator) and jump the connector. Fire it up with the AC on and if the clutch engages, there's the problem. I bought this 95 K1500 last week and I guess they ran it dry because it also needed to be recharged. Perhaps that's why it failed as well. Either way, simple test, easy to replace (on mine it has a valve that won't lose refrigerant), and about $20 for me.

There is another video with same information that’s around 3 minutes long …17 minutes is to much extra Good accuracy videos but sometimes you gotta watch a couple to find out your true issue. If they are all 15 to 20 minutes. Well. It’s horrible. Short to the point vids please.

DANG! This is the most informative walk through of a crank no start I've seen yet. Very thorough and easy to follow. Thank you for putting this together!

I replaced both, with the harness all a/c delco new. Codes came back fairly quickly. 327&332 low voltage. Both new ones ohmed out at high 900’s. Where does the low voltage come from? My next thought is to start going through all of the multi pack connectors and ecm connections looking for corrosion. Any other ideas? Anyone?

Ty this will give me an idea why the ac clutch is working but no cold ac thanks again

Who removed the coolant cap bracket? If its low on coolant gotta make sure it aint leaking into the battery.

Appreciate the content, love the explanation behind everything too.

Thanks buddy!

Thank you. Very straightforward and informative content. Keep up the good work!

So what if no power at all on the crank fuse inside and no power to ecm fuses under the hood

Great video James. I have a 2000 Silverado and I think I can find the problem now, thanks to you.

3:49 10mm nutz ty!

HOW TO PREVENT IT: Solution: Next fill-up use premium gas. It will help prevent misfires / engine knocks from low octane gas.

My 6.0 has been gettin a p0300 and with the test key bump is 45 then i tuen it over and its 45 and when i rev it , it goes to 40 it seems like it gives it less pressure..pump is like couple yrs old but its been parked for like 2 yrs i think the pump w bad

What voltage were you getting out of the good sensor when you were doing the knock test?

touch my like thingy that you?

Is removing the water pump mandatory to do this. Or just recommended because your already there at it. Just wondering because there was a timing belt replacement done on my van and now there is coolant and overheating issues. Just trying to get a clear picture of what might have been done to this thing from previous owner so i know what im getting into. What i need to check etc

I have no power going to my crank fuse while cranking the engine and no power going to #85 pin of the starter relay. Ignition C fuse does have power though. I’m confused, what do I need to check? The NSS or ignition switch?

This is great information and explained very well ❤ I’m having this issue with my grandma’s truck. I found that there is no power going to the crank fuse - I swapped the fuse twice and it still has no power while cranking the key. Any ideas on where to start with that?

how come EVERY vid for sienna timing belt never mentions the timing belt cover removal?

Was there a follow up on where the nss to pin 85 i have power on the out going side but wire changes color from pink to yellow w black stripe don't have a clue where that happens

Great video!

I have no power on low pressure switch. And when I ground the relay the pump will kick in

Water freezes at 32 degrees so a 30 degree evap coil is going to freeze up. You will also be returning liquid to the compressor. Liquid cannot be compressed and is a leading cause of premature compressor failure. You can't properly evacuate, diagnose, or repair a sealed system using only low side pressure readings. They install hi side service ports for a reason. It can reveal other potential issues like dirty cond coil, inefficient compressor, plugged orifice tube, proper charge. Its also necessary during evacuation and charging. Use application specific o-rings. Refrigerant oil will degrade the seal and create leaks if they are not compatible and the correct ones will ensure a proper fit preventing leaks. If you open the system replace the filter/dryer. Moisture mixing with refrigerant doesn't freeze as you stated but it can create acid which is worse and the non-condensables decrease system performance. The only way to ensure all moisture is removed from the system prior to refilling is by using a micron guage during evacuation. It also reveals very small leaks immediately. Leave the infrared in the tool box. They are unable to read air temp and the beam reflects off of the tubing causing you the erratic temp fluctuations you were seeing on yours. Supply air temp is decent way to determine how well system is cooling but the rest of those readings werent really useful for.this job neither is voltage reading at the pressure switch. Using a clamp on type temp probe for the tubing and an air sensing thermometer in the vents will give you a more realistic reading. Weigh in as much of your charge thru hi side service port as possible before running the a/c instead of introducing that liquid refrigerant into your compressor while its running. Weigh in the FULL charge that is specified plus around 1 Oz to account for what remains in your high side hose. Make sure cond and evap coils and cabin air filter are clean prior to charging as these significantly affect your operating pressures. The settings should be on max cool, recirculate, and all doors and windows need to be closed while charging. This isn't a get it close kind of repair. Whenever a sealed system is opened up great care must be be taken to ensure it remains contaminant and leak free and properly refilled.

was it the water pump gasket?

Yikes

You must have known I'm having issues where can I buy this👌🏾

Some of your torque specs (cam sprockets & idler pulley) are WAY off. Other than that - very informative. Thx

Hey can you help me? I went to go look at a 2000 4.8L Chevy Silverado. And whenever the truck was idling, it would drop then come back up. What does this mean?

I changed twist and the problem still an my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 I test and give me 1500 onna stii the check engine I don't know what it's the problem??

Ok, so if I understand you, the PCV vent will produce suction if the diaphragm is broken instead of just letting air out. So far what I have is noise when ice shuts off only, and smoke from the dipstick tube. I want to be sure I understand the PCV symptom before removing parts.

I really appreciate the video. Mine is at 158k, and this issue is just starting. I only hear it when I take my foot off the gas. It's a little concerning, what you're talking about with the crank seal. Is that something that you think should be done after PCV replacement, or just this car?

Hey James, thank you for this video. i've got a 507 code on my 1998 pontiac firebird 3.8l. I recently replaced the upper and lower intake gaskets and the car started throwing a p0304 and p0507 code. i've smoke tested the vacuum lines and gaskets no leaks. no oil in radiator and no water in oil. but the car will idle high when cold, 2k rpms then comes down when it warms up. i unplugged the iac while running and the car idles real high and goes back down when plugged in. The car idles at 750 rpms when warm. It has a misfire i'm working through cylinder 4 now, coil is good, i tested the ohms on the iac 66.8 ohms on both sets of connectors with the meter set at 200 ohms. so i think the meter setting is wrong. shows 0 at 200k and 2000k ohms 62 at 2000 ohm setting. (cheap meter) is this iac good or bad? hopefully you'll reply. if not i understand. i'm disabled and can't afford to take it to a shop....

Very informative thank you!

How do I contact you about doing work?