That would work just fine!! Remember if you apply some grease to the gear teeth as well make certain its just a thin coating as anything extra will place drag on the motor and potentially cause over torque faults till the motor has operated enough to get the excess grease out of the teeth's way. Place a reasonable amount of grease on the shafts though as that's the main cause of chattering and drag when the lubrication has run dry.

Depends on how used the motor is? if its the standard usage then the most likely culprit is the gear box. But there are often occasions where the motor its self malfunctions, the tell tail signs are motor running too fast causing the litter leveling to be too far to the right in the liner, or the globe keeps having over torque faults. But if you have chattering its most likely the gear box suffering from a lack of lubrication, mainly the shafts the gears rotate on. The best thing to do is to, (Depending on how much usage your LR3 receives) is to lightly grease the shafts the gears rotate on and keep the top end of the base as well as the outside of the globe clean. I usually do this when I do a wipe down of the inside of the globe, its quick and easy insurance to keeping the LR operating as its intended.

@@mikeshowtoandthings Thanks so much for the advice. I'm not sure it's usage as Whisker shipped me this motor with a new base and may have gave me a refurbished one. It does keep getting over torque faults so I think I'm going to abandon it however I do like to tinker with things. What kind of battery did you use to test it?

@@jinxjeanne I use a 12 volt 7AH battery to run the motor when testing and after re-lubing. Something that you should be aware of with the replacement bases, they are new from my experience but every replacement base I've received had the upgraded connect control board. And they are redesigned to be far more sensitive to any interruptions of the globe rotation often causing over torque faults. When in reality the motor if paired with the older connect control board are still robust and plenty of strong torque. To identify the control board is easy, just look of the date code on it, there should show "8-16-21 SC" printed on it. If this is the case the motor is most likely weakened and will need replacing but if it has the latest control board I mentioned there's a really good chance the control board might of crapped out causing this issue. To test run a cycle and see how easy it is to stop the globe and cause the over torque error, normally it should take considerable force to stop the globe practically lifting the LR off of one side. But if it takes almost no force to stop it then suspect the control board. Summary: new style control board with a 21 date code and stops the globe easily, possible bad control board. Older date code board with a 17 year date on it and stops the globe easily, the motor is most likely the issue.

@@mikeshowtoandthings If I didn't know better you work for Whisker or at least you should. You sure do know your stuff. Thanks so much for the suggestions.

@@jinxjeanne Some people have told me that I was more knowledgeable than the customer service they had conversed with. I'm just an individual with some electro mechanical experience working with 4 LR3's that are tortured, and I had to learn on the fly how to keep them up and running reliably. So I amassed all the known to me failure points quirks and work arounds to keep the LR3 running as reliably as possible. Also observing all the subtle changes in hardware etc... I figured id share my experiences in the hopes this will benefit others in their quest to keep their LR3's up and running!

Over 3 years.

I just use the super tech multi duty complex grease, seems to do the job adequately.

@@mikeshowtoandthings i wonder if red n tacky would suffice? i have never used the stuff before but i've got a full one laying around.

@@achg404 At best a VERY light skim coating as if the grease is too stiff or sticky it will cause the LR to over torque. I've tried packing the gearbox with various viscosities of grease and it all caused an over torque fault initially till I took a 12 volt battery and ran the motor for a while all the while helping it along by hand rotating the black pinion gear. Eventually the gears were able to work through the resistance the grease was providing and function just above the over torque threshold. I really didn't see any real service length difference between packing the gear box with grease and just lightly skim coating the gears and shafts they rotate on. so now I just skim coat the shafts, gear teeth and place a small dab of grease under the first reduction gear to help with the noise the gear teeth makes from being misaligned and call it good.

They are fine. Turns out this is "normal" driveline slop for a ford... The vehicle is still functioning as intended with just the normal seal sweating at now over 200k miles on the odometer.

The LR4 utilizes a worm gear as the first gear reduction in the gear box coupled with a significantly larger motor to achieve the almost silent operation. The LR3's motor/ gearbox has a very sloppy gear interface that creates significant gear lash noise resonating through the gears when in operation. This is why the first 2 reduction gears off of the motor in the gear box are nylon. It was an attempt to quiet down the noise. The only real way to quiet down the gear noise but not totally would be to bathe the gears in a light viscosity lubrication allowing the lubrication to absorb the resonating noise while in operation but the one side effect of this is the motor cant handle the added resistance the liquid provides and throws over torque errors. I'm sure a very light viscosity oil would work but the gear box has no provisions for seals and will leak like a sieve if it was to be filled with liquid. I'm sure there are ways to redesign the globe drive but it would require significant redesign. The best that can be done with the current hardware is to adjust the motor on the gear box to reduce the gear lash noise and to shift the first reduction gear away from the motor Mounting side of the gear box, otherwise raise the gear higher on the shaft about 10 to 15 thousandths. If the gear is all the way down on the shaft the lash noise and drag increases greatly to the point of the motor causing over torque faults on almost every cycle! When the gear box is skim coated there's usually a small pile of grease directly under the first reduction gear to temporarily mitigate this issue somewhat, but most of the time it gets squished out over time causing the lash noise to increase along with the torque load on the motor.

Appreciate your thorough explanation. Obviously most people aren't going to bother with this but at least it's an option. The most ridiculous thing is that the company sold these annoying loud motors and makes you wonder if it was possible to choose a quieter motor or if not create a quieter motor before selling the annoying loud one. But perhaps too difficult to create such a quiet motor at the time? I don't know but it's Very annoying for people that have to have the litter robot close by in same room. Thanks for the tips anyway have a good day. @@mikeshowtoandthings

Should be a 29MM socket.

Yes, its a US version of the MK2. The production years were 08 to 11.

No, the nut has compression dimples on the top side so when it threads on 3/4 of the way it encounters the tighter threads due to the dimples compressing them so this is what locks the nut on the threads. Since I was reusing the nut, I added some blue lock tight to assure it will stay in place just in case the compression dimples couldn't hold the nut in place as Ford recommends replacing the nut each time the brakes and or bearings are serviced. But the dimples are tight and after 3 years of use the lock nuts has not moved!

that means your outer joint is bad. You feel it in steering wheel when accelerate from stop. It gets better when speed increases.

That play is actually fairly normal as the shaft does ride on a ball bearing inside the transmission. if you are getting a clicking or clunking on turning then your CV axle is wearing out and will need replacing. I currently have almost 196K on the factory original cv axles and no clunking or clicking on turns. If you have any clunking on going over bumps this will be either or your sway bar end links and or sway bar bushings are worn loose.

It’s strange o have replaced literally all in audi a6 front suspension but not cv axle. And now have knock on speed bumps on uneven road.. I think it will be cv axle but now I’m confused nfused!! All arms, links, engine mount subframe, coils struts and, the only problem that still persists is clunk, knock only when driving slow….

If you can work that fast?!, otherwise it will take all of 20 minutes. Yea yea yea I know, HIGE disappointment!!!!!!.

Did you back the adjuster off enough to allow the shoes to slide back on the drum with some minor resistance? If you are reusing the old drums do they have a wear ridge on the outside edge as well?, if they do you will have to compensate for that as well once the drums are back on.

I have the Realtime speed version in the description... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qd97n5h0l7XYZ6s.html

173 ft pounds, make certain to rotate the drum counterclockwise while torquing to prevent compression pitting to the bearing races.

@@mikeshowtoandthings Thanks Mike, what about the grease you were using, what was it?

Also, what were you spraying with the long tube, air?

@@moodondie generic grease to lube the seal and coat the axle, used a dielectric type grease to lube the shoe landings on the backing plate and slave cylinder contact points.

@@moodondie used brake clean and compressed air.

I think you used like an anti vibration lube for the brake shoes and then something else for the shaft and inside the cap

@@onetransam1998 Used a dielectric type grease to lube the shoe landings on the backing plate and slave cylinder contact points. The wheel bearing seal and axle coating I use a general lubricating grease. The dust cap I used silicone rubber to seal.

@@mikeshowtoandthings great, thanks for the quick supply!!!

Thanks!!!, Its one of the reasons I posted it, I despise wasting time weeding through superfluous data trying to get to what I needed information wise!!!. Don't know if you noticed it but I have a Realtime speed video of this one up as well, the link to it is in the description.

In my case it was the out of balance tire, the seal hasnt leaked anything more than the sweating it has already over the years so fro now all is good, even after 2 more sets of tires later!

No idea what that strikeout is, sorry.

I have a realtime speed vid up, url is in thr description, enjoy.

@@mikeshowtoandthings thank you.

@@jamesdatsi602 You're Welcome!

The Shoes were sprayed and wiped prior to drum install, the brakes have been functioning as expected with no noise or chatter. I removed the slave cylinder dust boots and carefully inspected, there was no leakage or excessive sweating of fluid on either end so there was really no need to replace them, plus this car is mostly highway mileage so there isn't the heavy duty cycle on them as compared to city driving. What I didn't show in this video was performing a brake bleed on all 4 corners, it needed it as the fluid was starting to get dark but now there's new in it!. When it comes time to service the brakes again, replacing the slave cylinder will be high on the list.

Apologies for the lateness in reply, I posted a Realtime video of the rear brake job. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qd97n5h0l7XYZ6s.html

You can slow it down by changing the speed settings. That's what I did. Thanks for the video! It was great!

173 Ft. pounds, make certain the drum is being rotated "counter clockwise" while torqueing the nut or compression pitting of the bearing will occur and it will fail soon after.

@@mikeshowtoandthings thanks.. fun job :( had to get tool to remove the old hub

30 mm

Thank you for the tip, I didn't record it but i did spray down the shoes carefully with brake clean prior to putting the drum on. Trying to bed brakes with grease and or oil on them can get interesting to deal with to say the least!!!!

Id be insane to use threadlocker RED on this application!!!, I used orange instead, has the hold of red but has the characteristics when torque is broke its the equivalent of threadlocker BLUE. Since I'm reusing hardware the nylon inserts of the lock nuts are weakened a bit and i want to have that tiny bit of extra insurance since the TRE nuts are only torqued to 26 FT pounds. Now if i had new lock nuts id skip the threadlocker all together and torque it dry!!!

Should be 29mm

I think it's 30mm but not 100% sure.

Yes, Aside from the tire imbalance there was also a stabilizer end link that was worn. I replaced and the clunk went away.

@@mikeshowtoandthings Hey man I am having the same exact issue too! Did so replacing the cv axle and the other components fix her right up? Thanks

@@CheckMyCommentBoy Rebalancing the front tires fixed the issue. The play I shown with the CV axle is actually within tolerances.

@@mikeshowtoandthings Thank you. Taking a look at it under the car I do see oil coming from the inner CV axle. Maybe time to replace them. I hope it’s not the bearing inside though

@@CheckMyCommentBoy If the inner boot of the CV axle is torn id suggest replacing the whole axle assembly, dirt could be getting in and wearing the joint out causing vibration when driving.

To make slower: Do that in the player.

@@dbruh5829 it only makes it slowER, NOT REAL TIME. Speeding it up like this is pointless, frustrating even. Yes he's uploaded a too-slowed down version, but still with the "music" even more nightmarish and with no added commentary. Great shame because this is potentially brilliant.

Same here I also have z71 suburban changed bearing and cv axle,

Some aftermarket cv axles can be out of balance in my experience but most of the time the imbalance is usually an out of balance tire or a tire that is defective.

I’ve put two different kinds of cv axles in an still did not fix it

@@jessiebarker6404 Might be safe to determine that the CV axles are not the source of your vibration concern.

@@mikeshowtoandthings well I now tha now bu why dos the cv axle have play in it I’m runnin 20 with 33s so an it’s lifted so wha do u think it is

@@jessiebarker6404 Larger the tire the more critical the balance has to be on them!!! get them checked out or rebalanced!