And level

The most important is to install the plumbing properly.

Hi do you think it is ok to not use rails ? My house is old brick and plaster and i am having trouble getting rail flat and secured .

I'm currently remodeling my kitchen. No way will I have the trash and recycling pull-outs under the sink. I've lived here 25 years with this old kitchen, and I'm sure it's been many hundreds of times that I or someone else has said "Excuse me" to get the person at the sink to move over so that we can access the trash. An absolute pain in the neck. In my new kitchen, the pull-out is going next to the sink, to be easily accessed by someone standing at the sink or anyone else who walks up and needs access, without the person cutting the veggies or washing the dishes having to move over. So, trash and recycling on one side, dishwasher on the other, and cleaning supplies/detergents/etc. underneath. Perfect.

You skipped the most important part, actually showing how to cut the hole in the cabinet. The title of this video should be named how to measure, not "cut".

Agree on everything except the big drawer under the sink… we love it! Bonus functionality is to get the auto-open!!! Every other kitchen we visit, we tap with our knee out of habit and it’s weird when it doesn’t open.

I really love this video. It is as if you were in my head to find all these design mistakes (I'm actually designing my kitchen) ❤

This video beats all those ikea catalogs. Thank you.

Hello, I have brand new drywall on metal studs... any recommendations for screws please?

I do agree that the pullout under the sink could block the way if other people try to put garbage while others is doing dishwashing. I personally am not bothered too much as we are only 2 in the house. But I had to cut the support to use only for the two 10 inches front panel and only make the top one fixed. Ikea gave the brackets when you buy the ventilated heavy duty top bar. My sink is 10 inch deep, so making the top front panel fixed is a good way. Due to plumbing underneath, I had to cut out the back metal to avoid hitting the p-trap. So I have an undermount sink 60/40 from Kraus, to support it besides silicone which will not hold forever, Ikea sell the support bracket for inside cabinet microwave or the like, I use it to put a 3/4 plywood under the sink and level it to fit tight under sink so it will never fall even if you have both two bowls full of water. Anyhow, I love it because of hiding the garbage and recycle bins making it handy. Just finished doing grout for backslash, it will not be long I can show some pics. Still watching your channel. Keep it up for sharing more, you have my kudos for so many kitchens installation, i have done only one and it's plenty enough.😂

Is a self-leveling cross-line laser lever adequately good for Ikea kitchen cabinet installation? I got one from Temu for about 1/10th of the price of the laser levels mentioned in this video.

Thank you! I agree with every one of them. Can you tell me what kind of door styles are in the kitchen you showed at the beginning? Are they Enkoping in white and walnut?

Are the ikea pax wardrobes sturdy enough to cut a rectangle hole for a double socket?

I'm relieved I came across this video after visiting my local IKEA store today. I just finalized my kitchen cabinet and countertop orders. While my design doesn't include the first four items mentioned in the video, it does include the last one. After watching the video, I've decided to modify my design by replacing the wire basket with drawers. This video is very helpful for sure.

Had this exact situation! Perfect install, looks great! Thank you!

I find it amazing for how many people it is about looking good and not about function. When I planned my kitchen, it was all about function. And then at the very end I selected 3 possible "colors" and let my girlfriend decide which color she wanted. Like: Do you want glossy grey or not so glossy grey. Design done. When all the cabinets have the same color and grips that is enough for "good design".

Good video as usual. Those Ikea garbage bins you showed are a joke. We would have to empty those 3x a day! Utensil drawers are essential. I'm curious what you think about the newer shallow drawer vs. the old. My 10 year old kitchen had maybe an extra inch more on the low drawer compared to Sektion. It is a little tight now for things like a ladle.

Thank you

Where do I put cut side? To the ceiling or to the floor?

Hi Rannes, any tips for mounting a suspension rail to ensure the distance between the top of a wall cabinet and the ceiling is precise enough to fit a filler panel?

Hi Lars, We would like to add a pantry next to our current kitchen using Ikea's 18" wide x 24" deep x 80" tall cabinet to allow for drawers. Problem is it needs to go under a soffit which is 23 inch deep. Would I be able to shorten the depth by an inch using the first method and still be able to use drawers? I'd be using cover panels to on each side to hide the gap.

But can I slightly adjust legs which are near wall? 🤔

Thank you. Very helpful!

If your upper cabinets don’t have a 2X4 running horizontally to grab onto, is there any suggestion to increase screws per distance? Currently only have them screwed to a stud every 16” but worried since the cabinets are heavy and that’s when they’re empty!

Thanks. Good ideas.

Let me know when your goodwill tour makes it to Seattle.

Your videos were way better than the included instructions, thanks!

Great videos. If you go with dark doors and theyre adjusted correctly, you dont see any white with Ikea cabinets? The ones in the showroom showed white in the gaps and it really stood out. Was that due to bad adjusting (or none at all)?

Was there any specific reason you chose to install the lights 4.5" from the front? Why not closer to the front edge? (Thank you for the excellent video!)

I need help on my island. What panel did you use from IKEA? The only ones recommended are to small.

Do you have any videos on how to build the freestanding filler piece for a dead corner? We’re at a standstill in completing our kitchen

What kind / size of screw did you use ?

Great stuff. I have a situation where I would be left with 11 inches to fill if I didn't do something, so I came up with this idea, too. Nice to see someone actually do it, and see what the end result looks like.

My kitchen lights were installed by an IKEA recommended company. Now the lights are fading and need replacing. Is that something I can do myself? Or do I need to get an electrician?

Those temu lights are a pain they don't last are cheaply made and who wants to recharge their drawer lights all the time

Hi Rannes! Thank you for the very clear information. I have one question though. I'm guessing the side and back panels are not IKEA and you had them made somewhere else? I'm guessing that I need two side panels that are a few inches longer and wider than the cabinets, a back panel that has the exact width of the cabinets and is the same length (height) as the side panels, and a toe kick panel. Does that seem right to you?

Do you still use 120 volt? We switched to 230V 50 years ago.

As an absolute novice, I'm unclear about the modifications you did on the cabinet. In Australia they only sell the cabinets you need to modify, so im a bit stuck

It ends up having very limited use in the end given how small the width is. I would be tempted to just put in the three door panels vertically as fillers with fake handles if it meant less work! Yes, I know the space is then even more useless, but less an eyesore, I suppose.

Hi, thank you for all the valuable information. I have a question to see if you can help me with. I have a base cabinet that will have a 1 1/8" countertop on it. Then a 30" wall cabinet will sit on top of the countertop, with another 30" wall cabinet stacked on top of that. Should the wall cabinet rail be 30" from the bottom of the base cabinet rail, then another 30" above that for the 2nd stacked cabinet? Or should the first one be 31 1/8" from base rail to bottom of first wall cabinet, then 30" above that for the 2nd one? Or some other measurement? I appreciate your help.

The longer legs got introduced after the shorter ones were on the market some years already, which would explain why there are less reviews for them.

Hi Lars. Great video. Greetings from Jakarta! Btw do you have video on reducing the depth of the lower cabinet? Ikea's lower cabinet depth is at least 60cm but my kitchen depth is only 50cm. Wonder if I cut it and it will be issue in installing drawer rails.

Thank you sir! Your videos have been indispensable in helping me put together my kitchen cabinetry from IKEA. There are other instructional videos by good installers but yours is by and far the most complete, precise and concise. I was able to donate even though it didn't show up as others have, and was extremely happy to do so. Keep up the good work and thank you once again for sharing your skill(s)!