Thank you so much for your videos. Having a college degree as a mechanic, not all the time do we always now how to fix every car. The point of view with your go-pro is absolutely perfect. Your description and explaining things is great. Not everything has to be by the book. My issues were all the grounds and where they all hooked up going back in the edge. Thank you again for taking the time and effort to help us guys/gals out.

Thank you so much for your videos. Having a college degree as a mechanic, not all the time do we always now how to fix every car. The point of view with your go-pro is absolutely perfect. Your description and explaining things is great. Not everything has to be by the book. My issues were all the grounds and where they all hooked up going back in the edge. Thank you again for taking the time and effort to help us guys/gals out.

I do the same as you!

While this is a great video with very good information, I would like to point out a one big concern. I highly recommend NOT using the cam position tool as a holder while torqueing the cam bolts. These tools are not designed to withstand that much pressure, they are solely to make sure the cams are in correct position for timing. Instead use a proper size wrench on the cams while torqueing to spec. Also DO NOT use the chain to hold the crank while torqueing the crank bolt. This can cause premature chain stretch. Instead use a prybar inside the slots of balancer to hold the balancer in place during torqueing. Other than these concerns you did very well.

@4:07. This how u turn da wheel

Where are you located

You're doin' fine.👍

Exactly correct!

Thank you very much for this highly informative video! Ever since I bought my 97 F250HD 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke, I don't believe I ever heard it whine. Considering replacing it and your video helps!

Excessive. You've got grease everywhere you're not supposed to. Clean everything from dirt and rust. Lube the slide pins and in between the shims and pad. That's it.

I would suspect the slide pins are the issue and possibly rust. That area must remain clean, adding grease just allows it to collect dirt and it'll harden. This video has incorrect information.

I ONLY USE SILICONE GREASE! All contact points and pins

That's pretty much exactly how I do it. Silicone-based grease on everything including the pins. No anti-seize except maybe on bracket bolts.

Worked perfectly on my 2002 7.3, bypassed the vacuum leak and vent controls returned, thank you

I personally put a thin layer on the rotor surface & rotor pad

Wow, 200k and the abuse that pump has to endure, and was just now being replaced, pretty good Ford!.... I think Nissan also has the same design, funny how you never hear how stupid they are. oh and Chrysler 2.7 v6 too. Its a great engine, lots of power and reliability, this design keeps monkey's and fiddlers from ruining their family car. Chains should never go on dry, soaked in oil for 24 hrs before assembly.

So, off topic, but how well do you like the Kobalt Impact?

Yes good job

Dang man, most thorough turbo-rebuild video Ive seen yet. Decided to do exactly that with the kit and parts from RiffRaff. Been buying 7.3 parts from them for years, they are always super reliable parts. Got a new Garret turbine wheel prebalanced and everything, just to be safe. Not looking to drop the money on balancing the whole turbo... Thanks again for the awesome vid man! Probably wouldn't be doing this job without it 😅

They normally put the brake grease in the right spots because they’ve seen others do it… But the problem is when they cake the whole thing up with grease… The pads aren’t moving in and out 2 inches… It’s more like 2 thousandths of an inch…😂 So it literally doesn’t need much, a dab’ll do ya… The sliders need a skim coat on them but none directly on the end or it could kinda get vapor locked in there. The pads just need a dab on the ears that click into the caliper mount and a smidge on the back… That’s mainly for quietness, most people think when they hear their brakes squealing when they are pressing the brake, it means their pads are worn out… Brake squealers, squeal when you’re going down the road not pressing the brakes… I’m sure you know all of that but this is for a few people that will read this comment and it’ll click to them… It’s not rocket science. Yes, you did great… Thank you for showing people the right way… It’s scary knowing there’s people on the road that loaded that sumbitch down with grease…😅 They don’t know, but that could get interesting really quick… I guarantee you they wouldn’t know what the hell to do in that situation too…😆

Would this work on 2018?

Thanks for a great video. Risky to pry the timing cover off. You may crack the timing cover. Use the threaded holes located 2 at the top and 2 near the bottom. Use the timing cover bolts in these holes to back the cover off of the engine evenly. Also, it's not a good idea to whack the harmonic balancer back on. There is a harmonic balancer install tool designed to pull the balancer onto the crankshaft.

GREAT to find this video. I'm having this problem with MY Taurus right now. Easier than I thought. Thanks!

Look at his wires connections all Color’s correspond 😂

Thank you I have been wondering myself

Hey did you need to drain oil for this job ?

Only silicone grease on the pins. Die-electric grease is fine. No need for brake grease on the back of pads.

Thanks for good video Me I know the brand of this part I have Ford Taurus 2015 and I want replace front control arms

I stopped greasing the clips, collect too much dust and can bind. Under neath the clips I’ll grease to prevent rust build up

Very nice guide

Never use grease on the caliper slide pins, you Should Always Use Silicone Paste

Put some under the clips on the bracket as well.

Well I've only done brakes on my dodge neon which is simpler then regular disc brakes, but I used anti seize on any contact point that moves 🤷

I normally only apply high temp silicone grease on caliper pins (if the type of brake system uses it; some brake systems don't use grease at all). But I might also start lubing the brake piston boot, because I would think it would condition them and perhaps help them last longer

Is this for ever truck?

Just ran into the same problem right now!! Thanks to your video i was able to make it work, thanks

WOW, all your bolts came out so easily. I needed a 2ft breaker bar for the nuts on the exhaust flange.

Silicon on the slide pins but other than that good!

No slide pins!

Question for all of you watching this video. Ever notice oil residue in the housing of the air filter? Mine has some. What could it be? Tucson 2022

Thank For the Video Man, you deserve better than Coors Light!

Hero, doing them soon and im scared so this helps

My entire engine is wet front to back top to bottom... Valley was full of more oil sand than Alberta...

one of the best videos on youtube about the obs 7.3 oil cooler! no one has a detailed video like this!! even a year later still giving some valuable knowledge!

i will like one off those plates as well !

Is there a template or something you used to get a outline of the floor pan to cut it?

I personally don't remove the pads, and spray antitrust material periodically

Why is the inside of his motor bronze colored?

What size bolt did you use for the guide on the RH side ? I’m gonna have to do the same

I think no need to put greese on that.. otherwise your disc motor is like new 😂