@@StayPositive-sd8op send a picture to me I can have a look [email protected]

@@SMAutoRepairLLC I finally got them.. Did u ever have the sparkplug have the white piece break off while unscrewing the plug

@@successstudy451 thank you

@@user-bn1ii3ht8y they are for sure, at this point I’m on like my 30th water pump job for these. If I have all parts ready about 5hours start to finish.

@@abbymoore4312 Here is a link to the repair for this issue. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j6yjmryKvsWmXac.htmlsi=6-3uzP-ZplNDveq4

The what now? How'd you fix it?

Your welcome

@@jaklinalqesbols7121 replace back up camera.

@@lanemurphy8395 will be very similar for the van, this video should help with the replacement of that the pump. Very common for your issue to be in the power steering pump.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC thanks. At 297k can’t complain. Gonna dive in tomorrow hopefully it’s not too bad

@@noizemonger a lot of times yes it depends on the situation, you can actually test the blower if you have an amp clamp and oscilloscope.

coolant hose ? that’s where mine is leaking from

At 4:53 shows regulator to window mounting.

@@bayareaonly your welcome

@@lunatic_durango5154 yes that could work for you. Disconnect battery wait at least 1 minute and then re connect. See if it will start

@@SMAutoRepairLLC it started after I connected it but then I turned it off and I tried to start it back up, it cranked but didn’t start. Could it be a alternator problem???

@@lunatic_durango5154 alternator will not be a concern for the crank no start. When an alternator is failing you could experience low battery voltage, battery warning lamp illuminated on the dash while the vehicle is running and stalling of the vehicle as well.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC so do you think it could just be the battery then?

@@lunatic_durango5154 yes very possible when it was cranking did it sound strong and fast, or was the crank more slower to weak sounding? You could take your battery to any local oriellys or Autozone to have them test it for you.

Your welcome

@@tombrown5586 vacuum bleeding is the best method if you have the tools, most DIYERS do not and that’s ok. fill the system with coolant then start by squeezing and releasing the top upper radiator hose to help purge some air out of the system. Too off the reservoir if needed and start engine. You can hold rpm’s up for about 30 seconds then idle and repeat until you reach operating temperature and then top off reservoir. May need to be done a second time to ensure all air is out of the system but these systems bleed very quickly compared to some vehicles.

Any help would be appreciated!

@@SMAutoRepairLLC Your video help me solve my problem. Take big love and make more video.

@@successstudy451 thank you

@@newfie-dean5803 I would check the mating surface of the pump specifically where it seals against the engine and camshaft. it’s possible the pump itself is leaking under certain situations causing an issue within the pcv system form the way this pump is mounted and designed. Do you get the same reaction if you remove your oil cap while the engine is idling? These aren’t the same as far as engine vacuum supplying the booster, so if you remove that hose a vacuum leak to the engine should not be present since it’s the pump driven by the cam shaft that creates the vacuum.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC I looked around the pump and I don’t see any leaks in terms of oil like I have seen other people have. Yes, I removed the oil cap a couple of months ago while the engine was running and the same sort of thing happened so I quickly put it back on thinking I could harm it! This car is a mystery to me because what I have noticed through monitoring live data with a BlueDriver scan tool is that my air intake temperature sometimes climbs into the 40-55 C range with the ambient temperature in the high 20s. The coolant temperature is normal at around 85C. The cooling fans are always running as I have AC or defrost on. If I open the hood, everything is hot to the touch but the coolant is fine. The engine bay should not be getting so hot. Other times I drive it and the air intake temperature will be in the 20s and then when I pop the hood everything feels pretty cool to the touch. The issue is when the air intake temperature gets high it is causing the car to act up and lose power. If I’m stopped at a light and I go, the car will hesitate and buck and sometimes even flicker the red oil engine light. From what I have read higher engine bay temps would make a vacuum leak worst, so I’m thinking that’s what could be going on. This is the worst Ford I have ever owned. It’s not even paid off yet and it has under 75,000 miles and having this kind of problem concerns me and makes me wonder how many more problems this car will have. And it’s a nightmare to work on! I was thinking I could have a thermostat issue but not sure as there is never any effect on the heat or AC. Also this car has the radiator grill shutters so maybe those are not opening when they should be but to my knowledge they are supposed to stay closed in city driving which is a stupid design on hot days.

@@newfie-dean5803 alright so let’s try to go back to the basics and find a diagnostic strategy to help you figure out this problem! When it does begin to act up do you ever set any codes? If a vacuum leak is what your concerned of look at your short and long term fuel trims on your scan tool. Perfect trims will be near 0% a variance of 15% or less is acceptable that will help you determine if you actually have a lean or rich condition. Myself I would be more concerned with the oil light coming on. The VVT system consists of phaser and solenoid and are oil pressure controlled this advances or retards the cam phasers in accordance to the computers command. This will definitely cause engine performance issues if they do not agree or cams can not phase. If the issue mostly presents its self more when the oil pressure light comes on that would be my first and biggest concern determine if oil pressure loss is present and why.

@@SMAutoRepairLLC it only set a code one time and it was for both camshaft position sensors and those never came back even though it happened many times since. It does not set the red oil light on permanently, it simply flickers on and off quickly. Since this problem initially happened I have checked for powertrain codes many times and one that pops up often is P06A7 which is low reference voltage for circuit B. I have seen as many as 14 codes at one time. Then run the scan an hour later and have 7 codes, then later 3 codes, then 0 codes. I think it’s all electrical, perhaps caused by the alternator or the battery monitoring system sensor or even the ECU. I read that on this escape with smart charging the voltage can vary from 12.2 to 15.2. I have been monitoring control module voltage for 3 months now and the car is often showing around 13.5 but sometimes lower and when you let off the gas and coast it goes to about 14.6 which I read is normal, part of regenerative charging. What’s weird is I drove my parents’ 2020 escape with the 2.0 also and its voltage is consistently above 14V. Not sure if it’s a different system being the redesigned model. On my escape I removed the air filter box and removed the grounds under that and sanded some paint off. I also did the same for where the negative battery terminal connects to the strut tower. I also tested all the mega fuses in the battery junction box directly in front of the battery. There’s one fuse in there known to crack and cause issues. Mine seemed good but I changed it anyways. I need to bring the car to the dealer. I will never figure it out otherwise. The only thing I have not done is trace where the grounds under the air box attach on the engine. My parent’ 2020 escape had a no start and the dealer had to change out some ground under the car. I don’t see any ground under this car that goes to the chassis. The only ones I see are the 2 under the air box. Not sure if there’s some other important ground that I’m missing somewhere. These new cars are terrible to work on.

@newfie-dean5803 the cam codes would be typical to have after low oil pressure being displayed because of the VVT system. It could be an electrical issue, seeing the issues your having taking it to a shop would probably be your best bet. Hopefully you can get it figured out!!

@@marcushinton772 😂

@@mqsack awesome thanks for reaching out and the positive feedback!!!

It can be absolutely,

@@rosalimones4622 that is very common for this issue to occur directly after an abs event or hard stop!!! I would have the HCU valves tested for operation. Check your brake fluid level make sure it isn’t low.

Make sure the connector is plugged in all the way if your getting no reading at all, if you went with an aftermarket sensor sometimes they don’t work correctly so that’s also a possibility.

Your oil pump might be going bad or already is to might want to get that check. Did the same on mine nd wasn’t reading right changed the oil pump nd it’s working better now

Which recall was it, connecting rod bearing damage? I’m in the same situation right now, tryna how I can get my engine replace

@@donnelljr93 I think it was because my car was using up a lot of oil so something with the oil good luck with yours