Great question! You may want to consider doing a light sanding to the surface with a high grit, 320, and using a sanding block. This will help remove the roughness of the finish. After that, you could rub in a small amount of our Half & Half. Another great option would be our Wood Wax. It is food contact safe, made with walnut oil and carnauba wax. www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/waxes/wood-wax/

You can move furniture back into the room after applying the Dark Half. However, keep area rugs and furniture that sits close to the floor off until the full 30 days are complete. We recommend placing plastic sliders between the floor and wooden legs of furniture. This will prevent the furniture leg from naturally pulling the oil out of the floor.

Thanks for asking! Yes, wax would be a great option. Our Carnauba Wax will dry hard and leave a nice sheen. For best results, we recommend buffing in the wax by hand or using a buffing tool (car buffer, orbital sander with buffing attachment).

Arabian night!

Birch is going to be similar to maple. But, check out the wood samples on our website to see all the different oils on birch wood! www.realmilkpaint.com/help/resources/wood-swatch-samples/

I would suggest our Clear Soft Wax or Clear Carnauba Wax Paste, they would change it the least!

Acetone would remove the wax, we recommend using a solvent or mild dish soap to flush the mineral oil out of the stone. That would need to be done before applying the Soapstone Sealer.

Yes, if you are wanting to use our Wood Wax the Minwax would need to be removed first.

Yes you can if you want a more natural look. Same for beeswax.

The Wood Wax should be used on it's own, it won't properly absorb if applied over mineral oil.

Unfortunately, the Tung Oil won't properly absorb through the oil stain. The two oil based products will compete for space in the pores of the wood.

We recommend testing it in small batches first, some times the paint colors can be hard to mix together once the water has been added!

True and chemical free environment

Yes the Carnauba Wax would work well for a window sash!

It will not make the counters any darker than what the mineral oil has.

Warm or room temperature water definitely helps! If you have particularly hard water in your area, then even using distilled water would be best. Great question!

Thanks !! Also is it okay to Use all of it at once in the can and use the rest months later after it was mixed ?

Do you have a clear coat for wood and other surfaces like metal and plastics ?

Our Carnauba Wax is dry to the touch within an hour.

Great question! Yes, we recommend allowing the paint to completely dry before applying our Soft Wax. Real Milk Paint does dry fast, typically within a half hour to an hour.

Thanks so much!

Couldn't agree more!

Thanks for asking! You can use our Wood Wax on bare wood or after tung oil. It works great either way!

Thanks for sharing your thoughts! Soapstone can't absorb but it can adsorb. This is what our Soapstone Sealer is doing.

Hey thanks for asking! You can use the Wood Wax over the Half & Half once it is cured. It will add another layer of protection and increase the sheen of the boards.

We're sorry that you're unable to hear the video. Unfortunately, this is an older video and admittedly the audio quality is a bit lacking. Our best recommendation at this time would be to turn on captions. We will add this to the list of videos to reshoot in an updated quality. Thanks!

Our Soapstone Sealer is made with the highest quality carnauba wax. Carnauba Wax has a high melting point (unlike other waxes such as beeswax). Most pans would need to be very hot to melt the wax. On a technical level, carnauba wax melting point is 180-187 °F (82-86 °C). Even so, we would still recommend using a pot trivet.

Thank you!!

Yes there is! We recommend cleaning your wood with hot water and dish soap thoroughly. Because mineral oil is a non-drying oil, the hot water/soap will lift it from the wood. After thorough cleaning and letting the wood dry completely, you can apply our Half & Half. Thanks for asking!

@@rmpco Thank you

It’s much safer than oil. After the first application, you can leave the wax on overnight and wipe off any residue in the morning (I wipe down the entire counter). I bake a lot and have never had an issue, although I clean the counter with alcohol first

Yes! Our Soapstone Sealer is food safe and would work very well for baking and rolling out dough. Typically oiling is done with mineral oil and that never dries, so it is consistently being transferred into your dough from the countertop. Our Soapstone Sealer fully cures and is a much more permanent and longlasting sealant. Hope that helps!

Our Hemp Oil is technically "pressed industrial hempseed oil" will not go rancid as it is a drying oil. This means it hardens and turns from an oil into a solid. Because of this transformation, it cannot go rancid.

@@rmpco Thank you for the response!!

You're welcome!

There are alot of different ways they finished floors (sometimes they didn't). Tung Oil or other drying oils is common. Many times they would wax their floors, and re-wax them regularly.

Our Soft Waxes dry very quickly. 30-60 minutes. Our Zero VOC Waxes and Wood Wax which have the oil in them take longer to cure - 7-10 days. The warmer the temperature the faster it will cure.

Great question! The Carnauba Wax would be good at repelling water, but moisture and vapors would still find its way through a wax finish. Something that would be better at sealing wood against moisture would be our Finishing Oils 👉 www.realmilkpaint.com/category/oils/

It's a very fun color! Let us know if you try it!

Yes, you can! They are both non-drying oils, so the Cutting Board Oil will go on smoothly over the mineral oil. Thank you for asking!

We're happy to hear that you love it!

Thank you! We hope that you try it out!

The white one was our Soft White Real Milk Paint® but our milk paint comes in 56 colors, so there are many to choose from! You can look at the colors and learn more about Real Milk Paint® at realmilkpaint.com

Thank you so much! We appreciate it!

Either option would work! For the Half & Half, we would recommend 3-5 coats and 2-3 coats of the Wood Wax. Both need to be allowed to fully cure before having contact with water. We hope that this helps!

Thanks! How much time should be in-between coats?@@rmpco

@@jjm6187 30 minutes to an hour, no sanding or wiping needed in-between coats.

@@jjm6187 We suggest waiting 30 minutes to an hour!

We do not, at this moment, but we will let our team know that there's interest in one!

It is very sage-y!

These are great questions! The wax will eventually break down and need to be reapplied, with both use and cleaning. How long until maintenance will depend on the wear and tear of the environment. We generally recommend finding a regular time that works for you (such as once a year) or as it seems dry and less water resistant. It can reach that level of build-up, yes, but that would be more likely from applying too much wax before it needs it. Make sure to buff it in really well after each application. We hope that this helps!

These are all great questions! Tung Oil and shellac are very different kinds of finishes. Shellac sits on the surface, whereas Tung Oil absorbs into the wood's pores and polymerizes (cures.) This means it solidifies and protects the wood from the inside out. That makes it resistant to water once it has fully cured! It takes 30 days to fully cure, and then you can put any oil-based finish on it that you'd like, but the Tung Oil is enough to seal and protect the wood.

Once it's fully cured, yes!

Yes! A clean, dry rag, or you can buff it with a white pad on an electric buffer.

Thank you for commenting! You're right that natural polymerizing oils can get sticky if pooled and left on the surface. From our experience, each sample was sanded and prepped well, several coats of oil were applied, and all have cured to a great matte finish without any stickiness!

@@rmpco Im sure the surface was fine. When we did it here, the surface was tack free, but the natural indentations in the hemp wood would remain gummy because of the pooling that couldn't be wiped off. You just cant sand these depressions and indentations out of hemp wood.