Thanks!

Thanks very Much!

Thanks very much!

Very sorry for the late reply: almost 100% the trim motor is failing

Mostly a habit. Usually if we are resealing a lower in my shop, all the seals and o-rings are getting replaced. Shift cover seal, drive shaft seals and lower. Bending the tab in the wrong direction would be accidental.

You'd be correct, all of the above. I recommended new bearings etc, but gear set, pinion, was ok, shift good, minimal wear on clutch dog. All bearings were definitely suspect. Owner said keep it cheap, bare minimum, which is what I did. At the time he was going to sell the boat, but decided to keep. 100+ hrs later, still good.

FYI, motor is a Yamaha 2005 90 2stroke

The lower housing on the 90 can be a challenge. can you send any available photos to [email protected]. I want to see what the remnants look like.

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thanks Tyler, I anticipate picking the lower unit up from the shop this week and will send photos. Appreciate the help

Thanks very much for your order, and we have had excellent results in our shop as well as with customers with this puller.

Agree, that something likely smoked the fuse in the first place, and on Yamaha, fuses just up and blowing themselves out for no reason is exceptionally rare

Yes, that is correct, OST-0024 will pull the entire assembly from the prop shaft back, because that's how I designed it. There are some pullers that will pull only the carrier, but we do not make or sell them.

Given your description of the relay/trim motor, I would isolate the trim motor and relay and test them. If the trim motor is original to the motor from 2004, that is a very long service life, especially if primary use is in salt water. Overall, given the impact, I would definitely want to do some diagnostic tear down to inspect the internals. Running aground can definitely cause some issues with the hydraulics.

De nada, espero que todo se fue bien con el arreglamiento

It shouldnt be a problem. If the shift rods are out of alignment, they won't couple at all. So if the controls and midsection shift rod are in gear and the lower is in neutral, it should be impossible to install the lower because the splines would not line up and they would bind before you could ever get the lower casing seated to start turning bolts. On some Yamaha's the mid section shift rod has a good bit of space to move side to side, so it is possible to install some lowers and bolt them into place without the shift rods even being linked together. In this instance, it would be possible to install a lower set to neutral on a mid section that was left in gear. The easiest way to verify correct installation is, after bolting the lower on, shift into forward then reverse and go spin the prop by hand, it should lock into place if in gear, then once back in neutral the prop should spin freely.

The trim motor is usually not the cause for this type of problem. You will likely need to take the unit apart, clean out the old fluid, clean the internal parts and replace seals and o-rings. What you are describing is common for a unit the has lost some fluid, or has some debris hanging out where it shouldn't and causing the unit to not be able to build pressure and hold pressure reliably.

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks for the reply 👍

Our puller should be a fit for Merc. You can email me a photo of the lower at [email protected] and I can verify if needed.

Some Skeeters have a remote fluid fill on the console. It would look like a small black cap about the size of a Quarter that would be flush mounted into the console usually above the steering wheel. There are a ton of bass boats that use a remote fluid fill because of having to fit the helm pump into pretty tight spaces.

@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks I’ll look again. I didn’t see anything that resembled any removable anything but will look again.

All good, hope you are back up and running!

You can definitely leave the existing rod in place in nearly all cases. Best case scenario is that the old support rod is still able to slide back and forth so that you can clean and grease the exposed sections of the rod before re-assembly but even a less better case scenario of the support rod being completely seized into the tilt tube, I've had good results over the years by removing the support brackets, cleaning and resurfacing them completely, and going back together with a heavy marine grease. The critical issue is that the support brackets must be able to rotate and move independently of each other on the support rod as the cylinder goes through its entire range of motion. In the vent that the support rod is seized, and you end up needing to replace it, for whatever reason, in addition to swinging the motor with a shop hoist/cherry picker, you'll also end up replacing the tilt tube, unless you are much luckier than I've been. Because when the tilt tube and support rod become one piece, I had zero luck torching them to get them apart, and there is no solvent that will work either.

Yes, that's definitely true, and definitely will add job time to remove the additional air. This is something that didnt cross my mind back when I created this tool, but after working with it for a while I realized the same thing and posted short video on how to prime the Cylinder Attachment before connecting it to a steering system and adding a bunch of air. Definitely makes the job go faster. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g8yEhMVitczeg6s.html

the cap I'm working on at the 28 min mark +/- a few seconds is the tilt cap and the outer/wiper seal on the tilt cap does have the flat facing down into the cylinder. For the trim caps, the flat side of the inner seal should face the sky on final assembly. and the trim cap wipers will only install one way.

Oh for sure there are many tools for the retainers, and I have to use a retainer wrench to reinstall the new retainer during re-assembly. The reason I usually always drill the retainers out is that once the salt water builds up some corrosion on the bottom/skeg side of the retaining ring, it will often deform the ring out of round to the point that most retaining ring tools won't even fit the ring and the scale deposit itself isnt going away peacefully. We go into some detail on this at the 3:18 mark. If the retaining ring goes out of round with a wedge of scale between the inner bore of the casing and the outer threads of the ring, it only comes out one way: in pieces.

Sorry late reply, yes, there is definitely torque coming off the prop that will put feedback/force on the steering cylinder, but there are valves in the helm pump that should always lock out and prevent feedback coming from the motor and cylinder. If the valves in the helm are malfunctioning, they can and will allow feedback, which you will feel at the wheel, especially when you are under way, and also a malfunctioning set of valves can allow easy steering in one direction but very difficult in the other direction. An easy test to confirm: engine off, boat is either trailered or tied up/not moving. Turn the wheel in both directions, if it moves easily with engine off/boat stationary, then you have some level of confirmation that the feedback lock out function of the helm is not working properly. Also, if you are turning the wheel in both direction, again, the boat is stationary, and the steering is easy in one direction but very high resistance in the opposite direction, it is highly likely that the internal valves on the helm are causing the problem.

Thanks for checking us out!

Pex tubing with 5/8" interior diameter. Its a bit of overkill for most jobs, but really helpful with the stubborn/corroded ones where slippage is more likely.

I'm very late getting to your question and apologize for the delay. I'm guessing here, but sounds like you are referring to the hose fittings. On older cylinders the hose fittings are NPT thread and should only be turned counter clockwise, and then re tightened. On most SeaStar cylinder after about 2013 they started using ORB fittings which can be loosened and adjusted as needed to any position.

Awesome and thanks for visiting us!

I agree 100%!

Boats.net or any SeaStar BayStar dealer should stock the seal kits. Sorry for the forever delay responding to your question