Das kleine Blech für den Umwerfer hatte ich im Video vergessen. Habe das Blech nachträglich noch montiert. Die Schaltung funktioniert theoretisch zwar auch ohne, mit jedoch noch besser. Den Expander aus dem Video hatte ich ebenfalls nur temporär montiert und ihn später gegen folgendes Modell (weil deutlich länger) getauscht: "Deda Expander 1 1/8" - 70mm (HSS)"

@@simoneizenhofer856 top danke dir. hab den gleichen expander. muss nur schauen woher ich dieses Blech bekomme 😉

Ich habe diese getrennt um bei der "Hälfte" eine weitere Zugriffsmöglichkeit beim Verlegen der Schaltzüge zu haben um diese dadurch leichter verlegen zu können. Ich hatte zuerst versucht die Schaltzüge auf einmal (ohne durchtrennte Führungshilfen) von vorne nach hinten durchzuschieben, das hatte allerdings nicht geklappt. Die gelben Hüllen/Schläuche dienen nur dazu die Schaltzüge durch den Rahmen zu führen. Sie werden anschließend entfernt. Viel Freude bei deinem Aufbau! :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 Dankeschön

Thanks man! RAL code for grey is 7047 and black is 9005

Hey Franz! Fahre das Bike ja inzwischen in der dritten Saison und bin nach wie vor mega happy mit dem Rahmen. Absolut unauffällig im positiven Sinn :)

Thanks! I'm 184 with 86 inseam. I went with a 54 frame for a more aggressive geometry - I am usinng it as a roadbike with a second wheelset, too. Otherweise a 56 frame would have been perfect. With a stem short enough even a 58 would work - riding position will be comfortable and upright with a large frame.

@@simoneizenhofer856 Wow, we're pretty much of the same size. What stem length do you use?

@@omarmahariq Stem is 90mm with -6 degree. Handlebar reach is 75mm. I only have a 5mm spacer below the stem, resulting in a quite aggressive riding position. I tested a 110mm stem with 20mm spacers below, too - but I like the more agile setup better (In the video you can see the old setup with the 110mm stem). As I already mentioned: I am using this bike as a gravel and road bike. For gravel only or for a generally more relaxed position on the bike, I would chose framesize 56 :)

Hey Michael, das freut mich sehr. Im Normalfall sind beide "Kappen" dabei - einmal für Züge mit Hüllen und einmal mit kleinem Loch nur für die Züge. :) Soweit ich das einschätze, sollte es aber ebenfalls möglich sein, alles komplett inkl. Hülle zu verlegen - auch bei 2x. Die Umwerfer aus der neuesten Generation (egal ob GRX, Ultegra oder 105) haben alle integrierte Anschlagspunkte. Ich meine irgendwo gelesen zu haben, dass die Steckachsen von Carbonda nicht so gut sein sollen, da die Öffnung in die man das Werkzeug steckt etwas zu weich ist. Es hat sich allerdings herausgestellt, dass Nutzer die da Probleme hatten, ihr Werkzeug nicht weit genug hineingesteckt haben und es deshalb "rundgedreht" wurde. Die Steckachsen sollte man ohne Probleme nutzen können.

@@simoneizenhofer856 Hi Simon, lustig dass du gerade antwortest. Mein Rahmen ist vor einer Stunde angekommen und ich hab gerade dein Video offen. Und natürlich habe ich zwei Einsätze mit großen Löchern… Gerade eben auch nochmal als Frage ins MTB Forum gestellt. Auf jeden Fall Danke für deine Rückmeldung!

Thanks a lot! There is only the cable for the shifters inside the frame with no housing and the cables are under tension. That's why they won't wobble around inside the frame and won't be able to hit it and rattle. But you are right if you would guide the cables with housing through the frame, they wouldn't be under tension and therefore they could rattle. Same with the brake hose for the rear brake: The hose is not under tension so there is a possibility that it could rattle - luckily mine doesn't but it would be better putting some foam-housing around the hose :)

Thank you, that means a lot! Wishing you a lot of fun with your bike!!! :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 My frame got here but I had a bad surprise with the axles I bought, the thread pitch is not standard sadly. I'm looking at the ZTTO axles you have in your spreadsheet but the sizing is confusing. They don't label them 12*100 and 12*144 but weird numbers instead. Do you remember which models you bought to fit the 696?

@@Carftymk Front Axle is: 12x121LxM12(P1.5)x17 and Rear Axle is: 12x171LxM12(P1.5)x19

@@simoneizenhofer856 Thanks! They fit in just fine. I'm now stuck at the cabling part, the sharp 90° angle under the bottom bracket wont allow the shifter cables to pass, do you have any tips for this? Did you take off the liner plate under?

Hey Timothy! I cut the liner because I was unable to push the shifting cable all the way through in one go. This way I was able to push the shifting cable from the entry at the steering tube down to the bottom bracket - reinsert it at the bottom bracket to the other half of the guiding cable und push it to the rear derailleur. I removed all liners after I routed all shifting cables and brakehoses. Hope that helps :)

Thank you so much! :)

Absolut zufrieden mit dem Rahmen. Bis auf zwei kleinere Lackabplatzer an den Sitzstreben keinerlei Auffälligkeiten. Macht nach wie vor viel Freude sowohl auf der Straße, als auch im Gelände :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 sehr schön. Spiele auch schon lange mit dem Gedanken aber kann mich nicht entscheiden ob 707 oder 696 und dann auch noch die Farbe :/ ... Aber das fast durchgängig positive Feedback zu Carbonda ist schon gut zu hören. Hoffe ich brauch nicht so lange zum Überlegen, als dass die Preise dann angepasst werden wenn ich zum Entschluss gekommen bin :D

Yes I removed them after I used them to guide the cables and hoses through the frame (they are really helpful for that purpose)

@@simoneizenhofer856 Did you run a full shifter cable housing through the frame or is the cable bare inside?

There are two plastic inserts for the steering tube - one with big holes to run the cable with cable housings through and one with small holes that keep the end caps in place. I used the one with the small holes so I could run only the cables without housings through the frame.

@@simoneizenhofer856 ah that makes total sense. Thanks

The bike as shown in the video did cost almost exactly 1775 € (which I think is really decent as it got fully hydraulic groupset and powermeter crankset. I was able to buy some parts used, that's how I kept the costs low - for example the shifters and the wheelset. Second wheelset is not included in that price) I don't have a proper roadbike so unfortunatelly I can't really compare how fast it is. However I joined some local roud-group-rides and it was no problem to keep up. (in the draft :D ) I am 1,84m and went with a frame size 54 (medium) and not with 56 (large) (which probably most would recommend) to have an endurance road bike like geometry and a shorter wheelbase. Of course the frameset is not as aero and not as stretched as an race roadbike but I think it's just as good as any allroad or endurance road bike. (but that's just what I think :) ) Hope this helps :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 This is very helpful indeed, thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I have two other smaller questions in mind; did you paint it/get it painted yourself or did they paint it themselves? If so how much did they charge for a custom paint? Second question is, do you estimate the cost of tools to be under 500 euros or more, required to build this bike? 1700 euros is indeed unbeatable for carbon hydraulic with a PM crankset.

​@@Carftymk The paintjob was done by Carbonda - just sent them a sketch of the design I had in mind. At that time it was 85$ for two glossy colors. The paintjob looks really good but I already got 2 chips at the chainstays. I think I hit something and the paint used is probably not the most robust you can get. But it's more than good for the money. You can contact them via contac form on their website and they will tell you the current prices and options. Tools can get expensive quick, but 500 € will be more than enough. I almost only used an "all in one toolbox" for 50 €, a small 2-20NM torque wrench (important) for 50 €, a work stand for 80 € and some other cheap special tools like bleeding kit or bottom bracket tool ... - plus some other basic tools like the saw, screwdrivers etc I already owned. The big torque wrench is nice to have but not really necessary.

Hey Michael, thank you very much! Carbonda is offering a headset for the frame, too but when I ordered the frame 1 year ago, there were some rumors that it's not the very best. That's why I went with the Cane Creek 40 headset - simple and reliable at a reasonable price. Read only good things about it :) (Meanwhile many people told that they are totally happy with the carbonda headset.) Wishing you so much fun building and riding your new home :)

Thank you for this additional info, I Figure there was a good reason so I researched a little bit on complete headsets, the Crane Creek 40 appears fit the quality checkbox Although. I was too quick to click the buy button before reading your reply . 🤔 So I now have the Cane Creek 40 headset I am wander if it is too small at least the large bearing race does not sit flush on the fork, did you did you use the original race from Carbonda?

I found my way to my friendly local bike shop and got them to install the Crane Creek crown race no drama 😆... your channel has so much useful information thanks again, 👍

Hey Christian, vielen Dank für die netten Worte! :) Auf alle Fälle viel Spaß beim bauen und fahren deines Rads! Die Einzugshilfen habe ich entfernt, die sind tatsächlich nur als Hilfe für leichteres Einfädeln gedacht. Der Draht (Schaltzug) ist ohne weitere Hülle im Rahmen - es wird auch keine Hülle benötigt, da dieser ja gespannt ist - Quasi zwischen dem vorderen Anschlagspunkt an dem der Zug in den Rahmen geht bis unter das Tretlager wo er umgelenkt wird. Von dort "schwebt" er wieder bis zum hinteren Anschlagspunkt, an dem der Zug den Rahmen wieder verlässt und in der Schaltzughülle zum Schaltwerk läuft. Ich hoffe das ist nicht zu umständlich erklärt :) Es wäre theoretisch ebenfalls möglich den Schaltzug von vorne bis hinten durchgängig in der Schaltzughülle zu verlegen, dann muss jedoch das Plastikteil vorne am Rahmen getauscht werden. Das hat dann keinen Anschlag mit kleinem Loch, sondern einfach eine große Bohrung durch den der Schaltzug inkl. Hülle durch passt. Beide Varianten funktionieren prima!

Thank you very much!! :)

Hey! I did not use any spacers for the bearing cups of the bottom bracket - just screwed them in without anything. I only used one spacer (I think it was 2mm) on the crank spindle on the drive side (where the chainring is). The goal is, that there is no axial pressure on the bearings after tightening the cranks with about 50 NM. I don't know exactly which spacer is needed, but after tightening everything up the axial play is about 0,5 mm. Hope that helps!

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks for your quick reply and that is exactly what I have done too. Perfect!

Hey Patrick, thanks a lot! I got two of the black stopper thing - one 3 big holes and the one I used with two small holes that work as a stop for shifting cables and one big hole for the brake hose. Maybe you got another one, too?

@@kiwiwithacamera You got two options: You can either run the shifting cables with or without housings through the frame.There are two plastic inserts for the steering tube - one with big holes to run the cable with cable housings through and one with small holes that work as a stop and keep the end caps in place. I used the one with the small holes so I was able to run only the cables without housings through the frame. Hope that helps a little. Have a lot of fun building your bike! :)

@@kiwiwithacamera Yes that's how I did it. Should work fine :)

Hey Patrice, after almost one season of riding it I am still really really happy with the bike. The bike rides smooth on gravel with the 44mm ByWay tires and nice and fast on tarmac with the 28mm GP5000 tires. But of course I already switched some parts of the build and am planning to in the future but it's mostly due to personal preferences. The was only one part I really had to switch because it was crap: The chainrings of the ZRace crankset were made of soft aluminium 6xxx which made them bend under heavy load and caused several chaindrops while shifting (and scratches in the frame :( ) - I swapped them for Shimano ones made out of 7005 Aluminium and got no issues since then. The Crankset with the powermeter itself is flawless. I also swapped the 440mm gravel handlebar for 420mm road bars and the 110mm stem for 100mm. I would also invest more money in the wheelset and get a nice one from lightbycicle. That's basically it - still enjoying every ride :) Wishing you a lot of fun building and riding your bike! :)

@@cc-000 The crankset and the powermeter are still working fine after about 7000km. I think the problem that @TraceVelo pointed out was that his axle was 24mm diameter made out of aluminium. Smaller axles like SRAM GXP or Shimano Hollowtech (Both 24mm) are normally made from steel. The ZRace crankset has a 28.99mm axle (like SRAM DUB) which means that it should be more on the safe side. One thing I don't like that much is, that there is no Preload-Adjuster-Ring like the original SRAM-DUB-Cranksets do have - so you have to use spacers to adjust the play of the axle which is a little bit fiddly. There is a crankset on Aliexpress "Senicx GR" which does have that preload adjuster. Seems to be quite decent (I think @TraceVelo uses this on his new gravel build). Maybe this could be an option to. Unfortunately I didn't do any research about chain catchers yet :/

Thanks Paul! You are right - a crown race was required (it came with the cane creek headset). I put it on the fork but forgot to film it :)

Hi Simon, welches cane creek Headset hast du gekauft ? War es ein komplett set und mit welchen Abmessungen ? Mir fehlt nur noch der passende Headset zum fertigen bike 🙂 danke liebe Grüße Jörg 😊

The Frame is directly from Carbonda. My experience with them was really good :)

Thanks Alan! The 105 Groupset is totally fine for (lighter) gravel - the 105 shifters are technically the same as GRX 600 shifters with a slightly different design. If your rides are more bumpy maybe a GRX 400 or GRX 800 rear derailleur would be a better choice because of the damping clutch mechanism (both would work in combination with the 105 shifters, but weren't available when I built the bike :).

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks for the info!

Thank you! The tubes are "Schwalbe Aerothan" - very lightweight (61g per tube) and no problems so far. The wheels are pretty basic alloy wheels. WTB i21 rims with Shimano 105 hubs. They do work fine, but I am thinking about upgrading them for some lighter carbon wheels (lightbycicle or carbonbeam.

@@simoneizenhofer856 thank you brother! I will look into those tubes. I'm thinking if I want to buy little cheaper Carbonda wheels or go with gravel Farsports with cost couple hundreds dollars more:)

@@simoneizenhofer856 I loved my Dt swiss alloy for commuting on my cyclocross, before it was stolen.

Hey Hannes, sehr cool, dass du auch auf den 696er Rahmen gestoßen bist! Macht nach etwa einem 3/4 Jahr immer noch mega Freude zu fahren. Das Fahrrad selbst aufzubauen sowieso :) Für die Lackierung habe ich einen Entwurf vom Design mitgeschickt, der dann richtig gut umgesetzt wurde. Das ist wirklich genial - vom Design herist quasi alles möglich, was man sich vorstellen kann :D Für den Entwurf kannst du dir zum Beispiel im Konfigurator von Ridley (Das Kanzo Adventure basiert auf dem 696er Rahmen) diverse Screenshots vom Rahmen machen und dann in Photoshop oder GIMP so bearbeiten wie du es gerne hättest. Hier der Link zum Konfigurator: www.ridley-bikes.com/de_DE/configurator/KANZOC Hoffe das hilft ein bisschen weiter! Falls du es noch nicht entdeckt hast: im MTB-News Forum gibt’s ein inzwischen ewig langes Thema zu dem Rahmen.

@@simoneizenhofer856 - waooou, vielen Dank für dieses ausführliche Feedback. In Österreich sagt man "Danke du bist ein Schatz" ;) Ridley, on One bikes, Storck - ich bin mittlerweile draufgekommen das sehr viele diesen Rahmen verwenden und ziemlich was draufhauen an Marge. Aber da mich deren Komponentenmix nicht so überzeugt glaube ich dich so wie vielen vielen Jahren wieder mal selber zu schrauben wie Du. Nochmals vielen Dank für Dein Feedback. LG

The Bottom Bracket for this bike depends on the crankset you are planning to use - if you are using SRAM you need GXP or DUB, for Shimano you need Hollowtech II, etc - what they all have in common: They need to be BSA for 68mm. I am using this BSA-DUB www.aliexpress.com/i/4000831209917.html which was delivered with the crankset. When it needs to be replaced I will use a BSA-DUB by SRAM. Hope that helps :)

Hey Giovanni! I am using a 34/50 Crankset without any problems with the size. A GRX810 31/48 will work good. :)

@@simoneizenhofer856 thanks. Funny Carbonda put wrong max size on their site.

@@giovannizorra3803 I just checked myself what they are writing on their homepage. It's indeed 46T max if you do a 1x Setup. For 2x Setup it's max 50/34 :)

​@@simoneizenhofer856​, that makes sense. Thank you. Anyway, I ordered it. I am keen to receive the frame!

Thanks! The weight is about 9,3 - 9,5 kg including pedals, bottlecages, etc. in Gravel Mode and about 8,5 kg in Road Mode with the other wheelset. (The scale isn't the best)

Nice, thank you! :)

**fap fap fap**

You are welcome! Have a lot of fun building up the bike for your kid! :)

Hey Nick, thank you very much! The hubs are just simple 105 hubs and the through axles are from ZTTO - 121mm in the front and 171mm in the back (173mm in the back would be perfect) The End-Caps that came with the hubs just fitted perfect.

Thank you very much! :)