Hah right on! Would love to hear how it works out if you feel like reporting back

It’s a good callout. On my particular machine the fan goes on top of the pulley. I’ve seen others that have it in the reverse with the pulley on top like you describe. I’m pretty sure I just routed the wires either around the belt or too close to it. Brutal! Thanks for the comment and for checking out the video!

YOU’RE WELCOME 😀

I think it is unlikely to improve your signal. The only way this would be better in terms of signal is if the tuner you are currently using isn’t very good and the one in the HDhomerun is somehow better. I would guess that you’d be better off tweaking your antenna setup. If you have a good antenna that is already dialed in, then a preamp might be something to look into. The HDHomerun simply is a tuner that takes the received signal and streams it over your local network.

Very nice!

Awesome! There may be cases where the high gain can be too much. Def worth experimenting with both low and high to see what works better. Thankfully the way you provide power to the preamp is super convenient to switch between the two. Good luck!

@@MostlyBuilds thanks I hope to report back !! 🍻

Everything is listed in the description below the video. You just need to expand it.

That’s what I do with my center fed dipole. I have 3 pulleys with weights holding it up. I think my weights are between 3-4kg. The weight of the antenna wire and how strong it is will dictate how much counter balance weight you can safely use before it breaks the wire. I posted two videos about the weights that I made. Here is the second one where I filled them with BBs: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZZ8ed19vLS9h4k.html

@@MostlyBuilds Thanks for your tip . Excellent work, in your video on counter balance weights.

I didn’t see anything obvious in regard to wear points. It did cross my mind that I could have reversed the washers on either side of the small gear, causing it to rub on the case differently. Or I may have missed some particles when cleaning the case and that caused the wear. You really need to do a good job cleaning out the case. This last round of taking the trans apart, I ended up flushing the whole thing with fresh oil (in addition to using a ton of cleaner) because I took it apart multiple times due to breaking the bypass pin. When I got my parts back from being rebuilt, they looked very clean. When I saw the new wear this time around, I considered sending the parts out again but didn’t want to have to wait to get them back. I just risked it and very carefully sanded the center case faces with something like 3k grit paper. I don’t know what else the rebuild guy does with the parts. I think he also does something with the little pistons because they came back with a marker line on the face of each one. Good luck with the rebuild. If you come across anything interesting please feel free to share 😀

The company that makes this recently posted that they are working on a prototype that pumps air: facebook.com/share/v/XtHmQVkX9ezn4LBy

That would probably work to protect the ends if you can get the tennis balls to stay on. I’d guess that little giant doesn’t want the wingspan reversed because of the forces put on it in that position. Definitely a proceed at your own risk kind of situation 😀

Ouch. How did you manage to grind up the gears? Did all the oil leak out or something?

@@MostlyBuilds 4 years ago it had blown out a seal and was brought back to the dealer under warranty, I'm wondering if they didn't get it filled exactly right or they didn't put the correct oil in it. I was hearing Deere put 1030 in it when tuff torq specifies 5w50 Then again, how did it make it another 4 years, granted the last few summers have been dry and it didn't get the usual hours mowing put on it.

@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 wow. Have you contacted John Deere corporate? If you haven’t, I highly recommend doing so. The fact that you had a transmission failure when under warranty and then it mysteriously blows up? That sounds super suspicious. I wouldn’t be surprised if they give you a new transmission.

@@MostlyBuilds I don't believe John Deere corporate is on the side of the consumer/farmer. But maybe I ought to try it.

@@AmericanFarmerHVAC2024 it doesn’t cost ya anything other than a few minutes. I emailed them about my early transaxle failure (~130 hours I think?). They wanted me to take the machine to a dealer so they could get more info. I had already started messing with it myself so I missed out on them potentially helping me out. I was surprised that they seemed like they might do something though. They didn’t just tell me too bad.

Any good stories? 😀

Hi! I’m still happy with it. I like that it is removable. That came in handy when winterizing the motor last year. My only complaint is that I wish it would hold the rope higher. I solved the rope spray issue with the booster ball that I showed in the video, but I’d prefer to not have to carry that around in the boat along with the tube. To be clear, it works fine, it’s just a logistical complaint. I see other pontoon boats on the water with a deck mounted tow bar that raises the rope above the motor. I like that design better except for the fact that the connection point is on the deck. My pontoon boat doesn’t have enough rear deck space for one to fit (I think), and more importantly I would worry about it breaking off and someone getting hurt. I recall looking at them and seeing that they aren’t “rated” for tubes. Confusingly all I see people tow with them are tubes. The turboswing feels super sturdy since it is connected to the transom. I’ve had riders put too much weight on the front of the tube when we are getting going and submarine the tube. This puts a lot of pressure into the system because it basically acts like an anchor. I just slow down and start again. No issues with the turboswing yet in that regard. I don’t know how a deck mounted bar would fare in that situation. Hope this helps. If you have any more specific questions, let me know and I’ll try to answer them.

@@MostlyBuilds thanks for the detailed response. I also saw a few videos that pulling tubes not recommended being pulled w/ deck mounted tow bars. Something about more pounds of drag especially if tube submarines. I wonder how strong the tie down loops that are welded onto the end of the tubes are. Can you hook a bridle to attach the tow rope too? Even more of a problem w/ the rope being too close to the water but for a quick fix when the grand kids come up?

@TinyIslandMaine I would be afraid to use the pontoon loops pulling anything beyond like 1-2mph. If one ripped off it might rocket into someone’s face. No idea if those welds are designed for the kind of forces it would experience when tubing. Reminds me of the stories of people putting recovery straps on the tow ball on their trucks and killing the person behind them when it shears off. I have made a bridle like you describe for a “lazy river” tow where we connected a bunch of tubes and pulled a bunch of people real slow around the lake. I connected that to the two rear cleats. Not sure how safe even that is, but we went as slow as the boat would go. I put a boat fender at the tip of the triangle to help it avoid the prop. Tubing on its own already has dangers involved. I personally wouldn’t want to throw a sketchy setup into the mix. That’s just me though. Good luck!

Pretty much all the competing mowers at this price point are going to be the same situation. It’s not just a John Deere thing 😀

Thank you!

I don’t think it does. I only see torque units on mine. The product page only shows torque units as well

This one dosent do that. U have to purchase different type.

You put the wedge looking part in upside down. The part that I’m talking about is the one that is close to the brake disc. The shaft that the brake disc is connected to goes through the center of this part. You likely had to compress this wedge piece when putting the pump center case assembly back into the transmission case. Tuff Torq apparently designs it this way because some mower manufacturers need it to spin one way and others need it to spin the opposite way. You’re going to have to open the case again and flip the wedge 180 degrees. Let me know how it goes 😀

I’d love to get my hands on a TL 200 to take it apart to see if anything is obviously different inside.

You should be able to find a locksmith in your area that can cut a custom key for you. I’ve seen mentions of online services that let you provide a code and they will cut a key as well. Not sure I’d want to be sending my key code to someone online.

You could also buy a new lock. They all come with keys. I think you could probably get a “better” key code that is less cookie cutter from a locksmith though.

Good luck! Would love to hear how things went if you feel like reporting back.

Thanks! I’ll let the little man know he has a fan!

Thanks! Are you saying a permanent retrieval rope that goes all the way to the ground being a potential problem? Or are you saying there could be an issue with the retrieval loop design?

No sir. Your design is ideal for safety purposes in my opinion. Unless your alone out in the woods I guess it wouldn't matter.

@@mjcintenn ah gotcha. The only downside that I thought of for my design is if the rope going through the pulley breaks or falls out. Then you have to find a different way to hook the retrieval loop.