Its pretty comparable honestly. Just heady because the crux is unprotected.

Thanks for the history, anchor, and kind words!

Thanks for sharing the route's name. I agree, hopefully climbers, petroglyph seekers, and canyon travelers don't lose access to this area because of the development.

Scariest part of the climb! That tat is gonna get someone killed.

It's un-named. Which is too bad because it is a unique route and could be given a really cool name.

Thanks for the kind words 😊

The wooden dowel rod that I used to keep the #4 cam retracted. The fishing wire that I used to attach it had broken.

It's an old school star drive bolt with a leeper hanger, so it's integrity is extremely suspect, especially in sandstone.

Hi! Thanks for the feedback. I agree with you about all of those placements being over cammed. However, placing a piece over cammed is not a safety issue. The issue with overcammed cams is that it can be problematic to get them out. I specifically remember pushing the cam at 4:29 in and immediately wishing I had put a #1 there instead, but the #2 was so overcammed and bomber I knew it was gonna take a minute to extract.

@@moabrockclimber88 I've been told by AMGA certified guides overcamming can be a safety issue, but just did some research and seems like people debate it. From mountain project seems like BD email suggested it can pop when overcammed

@@sheawells This is simply incorrect. BD cams have a constant camming angle making the force vectors the same on good placements and overcammed placements. As long as the overcammed unit is oriented in the direction of the potential fall they are bomber. However, placing many overcammed cams is a good way to lose a $100 piece of gear, so it's not something to make a habit of and I should be better.

It loses only 10% of strength completely over cammed, so it is not an issue at all. Now if you need that piece later for a long route, then yes it becomes a safety issue if you get it stuck) Also with the way cracks are in this area, overcam is not much of an issue either. When cracks are uneven and flared certain ways then cams are more likely to get stuck. @@sheawells

There's a couple very fun, technical footwork moves off the rest ledge that are protected by the bolt. The crack at that point is also sub-tips (no cams would fit, hence the bolt) which makes it feel like a short section of 11+. It's tough to see the footwork and the width of the crack there since it's a gopro vid.

@@moabrockclimber88 Nice. Sounds hard. Watching this, you had me on the edge of my seat yelling at my screen to position your body a certain way at the crux section, and then you did exactly what I was thinking and I started cheering for you as if I was actually there lol. Good work

Thanks! I remember "Eat the rich" being really insecure for much of the time, so well done! I've been trad climbing for around 5 years.

Oh man! I could see that happening! I was really glad to have brought the #6 instead of a 5.

Definitely! Not all belayers could have kept me off the ground on that initial slip.

Why did what happen?

@@moabrockclimber88 Sorry, I commented on the wrong clip.

Because send

I think they were yelling words of encouragement.

Thanks for the question. Mainly because I had already fallen in that spot and came close to the ground. I have also pushed through and not placed a second cam there another time when I climbed "Astrolad". I think there's decent potential for a ground fall, so I err on the side of caution.

Also think small cams in soft sandstone near the ground… Not a bad idea to have 2 in

The crack is too thin for any cams for a like a 10ft stretch or so. You could probably fiddle in a ballnut or really small nut if you wanted. The bolt is also used for the other variation of the route.

Yup. Just decided to use a locking draw since I was on a rest ledge.

@@moabrockclimber88 Thanks for reply! Was curious as a noob. Great climbing