Anyone im cranking coolant temp in red whats fix 2006 bmw x3 cranks

My fuel relay, is missing ground, any ideas? 💡💡💡💡💡

i think that's not just the problem

thankyou great video

Very good demonstration. Please share tje names of scan tool and scope you are using.

which obd scanner do you use ? It looks very useful but there's so many to buy out there. I have a chevrolet captiva 2.2 diesel manual. In my book it does not tell me which obd type I need (16 pin ) or different. It is a uk model not EU car. Ideally the kind you have with a large screen for diagnostics is good for me. Any help would be useful thanks.

My 2012 BMW 750Li I have exactly same problem and never get it fix she parked in my garage over year now. I don't know what to do.

VZ Commodore will not turn over to start not fuel not immobilised not ignition crank angle replaced car has been recoded but will not turn over starter good

0087 non common rail I am low power

Where do I order this part please

If your having similar problems but it’s not the egr valve it’s either the scv, turbo solinoid, fuel filter usually the suction control valve causes it to cut out also

No common rail? Bosch vp44?

Can't see what your doing

Can you please show the exact location of MAP sensor?

Good day, I've got the same truck. I need your insight advice please. If i could have your email address please

Do you not recut/reseat the bore of the injector as to make sure the copper washer isn't sitting on any burrs/crap or carbon build up. I'd say that copper washer is bound to fail prematurely as mine did when not recut/reseated by a back street garage. I even mentioned it to the so called mechanic when I was watching and he said nah it will be OK. Few hundred miles later, it was chuffing away so bought a recutting tool, a copper washer and stretch bolt and did it myself. Oh the mechanic near stripped the retaining thread by trying to put the stretch bolt back in which thread was stretched on and scratched his head wondering why it wouldn't screw in. Telling me he thinks my head needs to be helicopter after he got power ratchet to bolt trying to screw it in. I told him to stop and got a normal m8/m10 (can't remember which) bolt to prove thread OK on head and went and ordered a stretch bolt and it went in fine. Never went back to him again.

How about diesel engine with similar trouble

Very helpful video thanks so much

Thank you for sharing, I just learnt something new.

I thought the delta sensors reading needs to be inverted when reading

This video saved me $1000s of dollars! I was up for a new dpf after turbo issue and I found this video after hours of searching. Used the instructions and it worked. Took my car from limp mode to dpf light off and I'm moving again after months and months of tedious work trying to figure out what's wrong and the dealer wanting $$$$$ from me. Thank you so much!!

I have D’Max with the 4JK1 engine. It has intermittantly a lot of power and sometimes a little less. Will clean the MAF and might clean the EGR as well. Thanks for the video.

Just get to the point damn … I’m bored

Good job on the video mine had the same 2 codes and problems and didn't want to believe it was the ecm so replaced throttle body and pedal with 2nd hand parts.. Just found this and all but confirmed the ecm. Tried pulling the ECM apart to see if I could find what part of the internal circuit was faulting and got the top part off but the bottom was a nightmare as you can't pry on the circuit board and the plug end is glued down to the housing and board.. Throw away society where you have to throw $900 on a new ecm instead of repairing what is faulting on the circuit board.. will give it one last try to get it off tomorrow otherwise bye bye $900.

Mine is just disconnected. How do I connect

Same problem on 320cd 2004. No one knew how to solve the problem. Thank you bro and respect!

I have been searching around the internet for ideas on how to fix my 2016 Ford Ranger 3.2 V5 Diesel engine. Ford dealership garage gave me a diagnostic report...low compression on cylinder 2. They want to pull down the engine...which seems like a very expensive job. What would you suggest? Thanks for your response!

And as usual the issue is in fact some bad plastic wheels. The vacuum actuated egr valves were much more reliable and cheaper than those electric actuated. Is the same issue with vw and all other that use this design. After a while the teeth on the mechanism wheels get broken. Usually the electric motor has no issue. All the manufacturers should provide spare wheels for fixing those things.

Thank you for your time and help what scan tool is that ?

Dude get to it!!! Why tell story first?? Tell us what the issue was THEN TELL YOUR STORY (as proof). I had to listen for 10 minutes for you to reveal what the issue was...sheez!!

Is it orange wire on a 2009 Honda Civic?

😂

My ranger starts but won't rev over 2300 and shows a MAF sensor fault but I changed it and still no good

having a similar issue, not revving at 1500 but hust slightly higher, say 900 rpm at idle, fault codes are pointing to injectors 1 and 2 and the balance rate is wrong across all four, at idle it should be approx -4 to +4 across all injectors, according to GM and Delphi. three fuel lift pumps have failed since getting these codes, will gfit four recon injectors and new pump next week to see if its gonna cure it

There is also a display light on the dash that shows which door is not locking. Just a FYI

I just need to know where bank 1 sensor 2 is for the love of god !

I'm in tanzania one of my ac technician did this job under 4 hours

Continentals are geniune injector for BT-50 & Ranger & are a high quality part made in Germany.

Great video but unfortunately having to remove the AC hose puts this job out of reach of 99% of DIY people

Hey bro, I have 2012 d40 140kw spanish made. Mine loses power while driving normally and also on the highway, it feels like it goes on limp mode but with no engine light on the dash. The only way to counter it is when I switch it off and back on again.

Sorry guys a couple of typos in my post I meant problem car and that they kept marketing and selling them I got warranty from GMHOLDEN at 172000 kms for the starter mitt , battery harness and solenoid nut , and I now have a new 2 years warranty on these items Don’t just spend you hard earned bucks before going back to GM It cost not to ask

Thank you for your post much appreciated is it possible for you to give/show us members how you removed the cooler step by step video and tools used To all Chevy, Holden Antera owners thank you for your posts , we all struggle with a badly designed car with parts /components are extremely hard to reach I think that we can start a class action against the manufacturers they knew that they had a pro car but kept markets and selling them and what about the dealers who kept telling their customers that the Captiva was a great car with GM technology Please send your comments and let me know what you think We deserve to bd compensated ?? Are you guys with me

I had a similar problem with mine and it turned out to be a fried chip on the ECU..

Great video. Thanks for posting.

for some reason,i can smell the interior of your moldy car...i dunno why...🤷‍♀

Man i have problem on 525tds for two months now, i checked everything but EVERYTHING beside ignition switch, if this solve my problem i will keep your pic in my car! I will try tomorrow and leave reply on this!

Thank you. Now, I can go ahead and fix my vehicle.

😮

Thank you for sharing this information. We now have an possible answer to our problem. As u mentioned this problem does not show up on mechanics computer system. We have booked ours in to get it checked 😊

great one again ... I really love your diesel engine performance contents. Hope to see more of them coming