This is the best cheapest route. Thanks for sharing.

Wonder how long it will be before he catches his truck on fire

I have the same one. Raise the handle as hi as you can that way your using your weight instead of brute strength. Also I plunge cut from left to right. It's a lot less movement that way. 👍

That monkey beaver harness though!!!

Where did you get the stuff from?

All we need know is the cost sir

A 27" bar is literally into the special use category and for 99" of people has no practical application. That said, why not?

Will that supply enough juice for a 14 ton winch?

awesome job, very well engineered. How about long-term review?

Looking forward to 'How to use toilet paper'...........

You should show folks how to store the darn thing after you get to where you are going. They are a mess when you are not using them.

There's also a need way to store the long strap rolled up in compact form, should have shown that to make a complete video.

READ THIS: “In through the out door” is the name of led zeppelin’s last album + a way to remember how to use a ratchet strap completely normally. Saved you 4 minutes of literally nothing. The other 5.5 minutes are a demonstration if you want.

I’ve always been told that you shouldn’t pull all the slack out before you begin ratcheting. It takes that drum at least 3 revolutions before it will hold to specs.

Here I was thinking that you were going to show us some better or easier way to use a ratchet strap. Nope, this is just the regular way to use feed a ratchet strap.

I just pull mine thru. Is your method better? Also. I typically use the tail either as additional ties or just tie the end.

I heard Led Zeppelin broke up over their frustration of using a Ratchet Strap

Until the plastic box cracks and than everything is flying around. The box. The papers and the ratchet also. And there are way better ways to bind the rest of the band.

I bought the same one. Haven't opened up the crate yet. I'm 70 years old,looking forward to getting rid of many stumps and cypress knees. Good luck with yours.

What was the cost of it?

Damn I paid 2 euro each for the handles from Burton Europe. Honestly though, even if I paid what you paid it would still be worth it as they are the perfect handle for the hack.

Good job. I learn something. Yhank you.

If this was routed similar to the Clew’s I think it would work easier

Would this work with a 12000lb winch?

Great to see your ride. I was there last week and I'll be out there this weekend too. Keyauwee is one of my favorite trails.

What chain are you running? Semi/safety chain?

How’s the 360 still treating you?

Hey my Home state wv we have great mtb biking to 🚲👍👍👍

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Awesome job 👍👍👍👍

I did something similar but I didn’t think to use bike cables. I grabbed some some metal straws from and ran Dyneema kite string (rated at 100lbs) through it. I made the handle just from thin silicone tube. I used knots and shrink tube to anchor the lever and handle. Probably won’t be as sturdy as yours but seems to do the job. Cost about $12

The winch should be run with 10 ga wire directly from the battery per the specifications on the HF website. Read your owner's manual on that winch. The winch draws 25 amps for each 500 lbs it has to pull. At a full 2500 pull, it can draw 132 amps! And that's only if you have ONE layer on the capstan. The current draw goes up from there for each layer of rope. 12ga chassis wire may overheat and blow like a fuse when under heavier loads or if the winch encounters resistance to pulling. That winch has one powerful labor union. Work for 45 seconds, then take a 14m:15s rest break. The labor union may allow the winch to work a few seconds longer with that stump grinder as it probably isn't a full load on the winch.

Can you Clew me in.

My buddy did the same. Works great.

well yur learning. Keeping a saw at optimum operating speed does wonders for cut time, pushing too hard and letting the bar bury beyond the saws power band is a no go. Maybe the muffler mod was a plus, lots of people say it works for all saws but did it now make the muffler non spark arrestor equipped? I would caution to be sure and thoroughly blow out, clean the muffler after that "surgery" as any hard particles can be drawn back in with the engine pulses. My personal view is that some opening up may help but it seems to me people get carried away with that process and go farther than there is a payback for performance. I have looked at a lot of saw mufflers on saws I collect and it looks to me like the supposed restrictions are pretty small in magnitude, the single biggest is the outlet opening shape and diameter. I would be for leaving the internals alone and work on increasing the opening size and air flow capability. Judging from the sound of the engine and the cutting action of the chain you could gain a heck of alot of performance by better carburetor tune and getting that chain to optimum cutting form, more payback there than anywhere else in fussing with saw performance.

I switched mine to the inside position. Burton should be watching this for it's next iteration. Great mod.

Hi , did something very similar a couple of years ago & used mtb rivet on cable guides . I found at that height in France - Italy they interfere with the chairlifts & are easily kinked . I dropped mine right down & used 1” mini pool balls , red & green ( port / starboard ) way cooler & keeps them out of harms way , good work though 🤘

Nice !!

Was much louder after the mod?

Definitely get better chains

Dull chain ?

I have done the carb mod that allows you to lean the carb out. It requires a new main jet inside the carb. It is absolutely required if you run these saws at 6-12 thousand feet. FYI those are the easiest saws to work on with most of the screws the same size and torx number. Never use a screw gun to assemble them because you will over tighten and strip screws. Just snug screws on all plastic saws.

Dude, all you’re doing is walking and you sound like you’re worn out you ain’t never gonna drag your deer back you’re gonna be fucking dead by the time you get it back to your vehicle

No reason for that shot ahole,have some respect for the deer,some hunter you are.

I get mistakes happen. However you should invest in some binoculars. And correct me if I'm wrong a legal buck must have at least 3 points.

I appreciate what you did here. With infrequent use, short bursts, light and unbound loads, you MIGHT be ok. You are gambling with your truck's wiring harness. 6-10 ga battery quick connect terminals in the bed, or even terminal on 1 end of extended jumper cables, would be worlds better. A heavy rubber mat would save your bed. DO NOT run things in close with that wireless control, there are times when you left off that wireless control and it keeps running for 1.5 seconds or so, it can be very destructive to things or tear itself apart. The wired control response is instant. A piece of hard plastic would save the top rail of your ramp from the cable. If it is ever going to be in the rain, disassemble and seal that control box. Spray conformal coating on the guts of that wireless fob to get a longer life out of it in the rain. Keep the vids coming.