So you’re looking at NDs but the only difference is the shape? Are these squares you’re talking about the bigger, drop in filters?

Yes.. the outer ring rotates the CPL and the ND rotates with one of the orange flanges

@@patcormick thanks for the info, it wasn't so clear in the company's specs

@@Luths269 no worries, glad I could help clear it up 👍🏼

Thank you so much! Love the stoke!

Different people have different reasons.

It’s a vibe lol 😂

A cheap film camera provides a nostalgia and beautiful image, whereas a cheap digital camera provides a sharp, less soft and vibey photo. If you take the same photo side by side on digital vs film, your two photos will be very different

If you could use the couple of added benefits… maybe the 1V

@@markgoostree6334 ok can start on auto As you learn use aperture or shutter If there Manual there most use others

The contax doesn’t really sell that point of affordability does it 🤣

Of course! It’ll help with over exposure

@@patcormick Many thanks, will order one.

I don’t think there would be a huge difference on that one.. that basically 1 stop difference… with one starting a bit more intense than the other and then ending a bit stronger on the back end as well.. I’d probably go for the slightly stronger one. But either would probably be mostly fine… if you’re in crazy bright situations all the time you could always look for a 2nd filter that’s stronger for those particular times

@@patcormick Thank you for the advise, you've inspired me. I'm planning to buy an ND2-32 first as my primary filter, and I'll get an ND32-1000 later on for use in extremely bright conditions.

You know I’ve had some weird looks with limo purple too. It dually stems from white balancing and scanning… I’d say look at these two things and try scanning it again

Just for clarity, you’re looking for a VND polarizer right?

@@patcormick yes to shoot videos outdoors…. Thank you for such a quick response

@@costtv no worries! Try out a K&F concept filter… the only thing you need to know if the diameter of your lens so you get the right size

@@patcormick ok thank you…

I don’t think it’s click bait? The whole video is up on the channel now ✌🏼 check it out

Check out the full video, it’s up on the channel now. Itll give some more insight 🫶🏻

You’d had one since 2006?! Now that’s crazy cool. What were you shooting back then?

Big thank for the props 🙏🏼 And ya know… I am actually a pretty big fan of Olympus point n shoots… my dad had one in the 90s and he got my mom one, one year. Now I want one just for the nostalgia

I use the 50 1.2, the 24mm 1.4 and the 70-200 2.8 👍🏼

Did you ever get the answer?

No...​@@patcormick

Glad it helped!

Try me again? You mean push/pull

With film photography, you can’t change the ISO. The film speed IS your ISO. So if you get a box of portra 400… 400 is your ISO. Then you just set that into the camera.

I mean it might… if I had to say, I’d prob say it does go a bit green… but if you’re shooting log, or color grading, or the very least doing a white balance you won’t notice it… I think most filters will cast to a degree 🤷‍♂️

Hey that’s a solid tip! Good to keep in mind. I would make a counter though for the proverbial argument that 102 is perfectly fine, with the difference noted as 1.2 degrees C different (arguably minimal)… and depending on how you develop the extra degree or 2 helps with cool down of chems while actually doing the process. Honestly I run my warmer to 104 or so in glass bottles just bc I know they cool a bit as they sit on the counter while I’m waiting or working with the inversions.

First of all big thank you on the compliment! But I also agree the tonality does seem silver right? I mean some of this could come from the scanning portion but overall I noticed the same thing.. but either way it’s such a nice stock, and with the benefit of C41 it’s a solid choice. Thanks again for the comment!

So I was on the fence at one point before the Nimslo with the Nashica. I knew about the reto product, but I knew I wanted four lenses. Obviously bc the 4th really gives it the depth that you want to make that pivoting image. I say that to say this, I’m glad I got the Nimslo, it’s easy, it’s fun, and it gives a great image. I think you’ll love it

⁠@@patcormick thankyou, I’m excited, can’t wait to try it out! Also, do you have any advice, when it comes to equipment, as well as tips, tricks/things newbies should look out for when it comes to home developing?

@@adukéníoríkìmí tons! Check out some videos back on the channel, see whatcha see and put more comments, I’ll try check back later. You can always @ me on Twitter as well for short simple responses for questions as well

Ya know… that’s usually what the drawback is with XP2. It is lower in contrast and in grain, so it doesn’t appeal to the BnW shooters as much as the traditionals. But I will say being able to put 2 rolls in a tank and get black and white and color is pretty neat. Thanks for stoke and for checking it out!

1-5 would be a little less dense than 2-6

Wow, that’s not good at all. Good info for others though, thanks for updating!

Mine just stop working today 😢

It’s super easy and a really cool way to play with your instant film!

Cap?

Always good to take artistic references from good places 😗

🤣

Check to make sure… but I googled your lens and it said your thread mount is 82mm. So unless you have a lens with a bigger thread mount I’d go with that. If you have one that for some reason has a larger diameter/thread mount get one for that size instead bc you can buy the step up/step down rings I mentioned in the video to you buy 1 filter but get to use it on all your lenses 👌🏼

@@patcormickthank you for replying

Solid question. I’d say the VND is necessary and the CPL can be a good addition. If you’re making videos outside, you gotta have the ND so you can cover the 180 degree rule, for proper motion blur. On the photo side the CPL may help you a bit more so you can take down the bright sky and make it more of a punchy blue. But you could also run the ND if you like to throw in other shots with your landscapes that need subject isolation via lower apertures… hope this helps!

Whatcha mean?

So I haven’t used the other one… but I’d say if you can make it work, when I have the issue I order both and return the one I liked least 🤷‍♂️

🫶🏻