I realize this is old but I'm pretty comforted by seeing it! I'm 6 months into resin dice and only in the last couple weeks have I been consistently getting no bubbles or voids in my dice. Practice makes perfect I guess!

Then your video is chopped off?

This was a very good and informative video on my favorite God in D&D. Just curious, why you feel the need to emphasize the last word of all your sentences, especially the many times you loudly end a sentence with the word, WORLD.

Interesting video, but it seems like you're only testing PLA here. I'd like to see PETG and especially ABS as well.

Just used acrylic paint and it also leaves a slight chalky feel to the model

Move the camera closer. Nobody can see a damn thing

PS you used the same affiliate link for JB Weld and Loctite super glue

It's pretty difficult to compare strength if the part is breaking before the glue 🤣not that I'd expect you to redo the whole video for it

I love the video but for resin poured dice, it's important to take the cost of the mold and the cost of the dice masters into consideration. Pre-made molds can be super expensive if someone wants to be able to maybe sell their own dice down the line due to copyright issues (about half of the premade molds on the market don't allow for resale because of the font). Additionally, if you are making the mold yourself, you have to take that cost into consideration too (silicon, cups, stirs, etc.). To be fair to you, most people don't include those costs in their comparisons or "how to" videos. I just think it's really important for people to know before they get into it only to find they can't afford it.

Has anyone had success with out a pressure pot to get bubbles out? I know you are meant to be careful in how you mix resin, bet mine will turn out like this too, I'm trying a dice mould with my kids tomorrow!

Don't you need a 'taller' stool? 🤣

"How to cast bubble-free dice", proceeds to pull Bubble-ridden dice. At least you got my view. click. baited.

ya know, those channel locks have a direction to them...

Dude! It's Frodo Baggins!

Men

Wasn't sure if I needed to turn off the circuit breaker, YES I do! Thank you.

not just lizard men their are lizard women too that are strong with the magic arts and witch craft voodo

While it was somewhat helpful, it did not add as much as the guide that came with the lock, in some cases less. Also I have to agree you block most steps from view

thanks for the video, my goal is to make flexible models and this helps, you gained a sub 👍

Not all super glue is created equal and from what I've seen Loctite is the best so don't expect better results from others for plastics

Thats interesting to me

Just wanted to say, there are brands MUCH lower in cost than loctite for CA glue. I usually use Kraken brand

Read your title again. 😂

Nice break down, thanks!

Would

This is some serious sciencing going on.

Pvc cement clear works great with out primer. Any way I didn't see clear primer just violet

Thank you so much ! I was so confused before , thankyouuuu

Just came across this a few weeks ago. I had a ton of luck using the ratcheting glue stick stl from thingiverse and a high temp gun. (The ratcheting glue stick has ridges on the side) If you ever want to retest

After every print do you replace the liquid or do you reuse it until its cloudy ?

what your 3d printer brand?

Didn't really answer anything LOL. I'm going with Star Bond CA thick

For the pvc cement you actually don't need the primer and can buy the clear version.

Keep in mind Gloop says you need to lightly sand both parts. Sanding lets it really penetrate and change the composition of the plastic.

Erm what the sigma?

What ah battery did you use? I see Ryobi has a 8 and 12 ah battery out now.

Just starting out with resin printing on an old mars 3. This is a terrible design, hope it's different in newer models.

Why would you release this video? Shouldn’t you have strengthened your test parts and re-ran the tests? It’s inconclusive. Also a strain gauge would probably be better

CA glue?

I've been pretty disappointed with Gloop PETG after really enjoying their PLA variant. With the PLA version you seem to get real fusion between the two parts, where as the PETG version I have had better results using regular old super glue. It doesn't make any sense to me, but your second test with their PETG version mirrors my experience. I will be getting more of their PLA, but I will be checking out the PVC pipe cement and the JB Weld Plastic Bonder. I feel like I wasted my money on the Gloop PETG version and it wasn't cheap.

What is the fep size that you use? Thanks for all

try adding a fillet to the 3d prints (and maybe some ribbing/handles to increase grip/torsion, or maybe just a wider circle for any torsional snaps), and also maybe print them long ways so that the print don't break between layer lines (if you want it to be THAT study). Anyways appreciate the content really informational!

do you know how many ms it has( like usually gaming monitors have that stat so just wondering if you know)

Doesnt work… says cannot remesh

Maybe a video on the use of supports and the best ones for certain prints (like dragons).

ty king, dont stop making content!

i love your videos

Good video. Only critique I have is that I'm finding the way you're sounding to be a bit monotone. Creating a script and familiarizing prior may help with it sounding more natural in its delivery 🥰 keep it up! ❤

Thanks for the video! While PLA is super-easy to print with, most of the prints I make are functional parts and I end up making them out of PETG for the increased impact and temperature resistance you mentioned. PETG definitely requires some tuning (and usually considerably slower printing) to get the best quality - but it's definitely worth it if you need the material properties.

highly recommend rybonator’s channel for learning how to make dice but there’s a video by druid craft about the difference between using a pressure pot vs not using one that has helpful tips to bubble reduction