Stunning camera,great!

your blog is awesome

Great job!😉

hello! do you have the repair manual of this equipment? Thank you

Very nice results from your tin can pinhole camera.

I made a little roll of paper and put it on a spool then shoot some pictures (up to 10 shots). So I don´t need the changing bag. 120 film spool, so medium format.

Wow thats very low speeds? Nice video

Thank you for this, just what I needed.

So much fun...!!! I'll try it with my 6 by 6

Great video!!!

You damaged my ears with your shouting F***ck you.

Would love to see some of your work from this 11x14

Stumbled on this unboxing. Just ordered a 8x10. Do you have some pics you took with it?

Wow !! Amazing tutorial, thankyou !! Just a Q: which ISO/ASA (sensibility) for yourILFORD Multigrade MC IV RC plus ?

I didn't know you could do 2 passes in Diafine, cool

Gracias, Thank you

Great job on these tests my man. Lot of work. I just completed a similar test with in camera cyanotype on my channel if you're interested. I'd like to see this on large format also

Calibration implies a controlled process to determine the effective film speed in your selected developer and the development time required to achieve a standard contrast range. To do this accurately, a meter to measure the density of the film is required. By comparison, this is little more than playing around, as no standards are set or measured. Note: Any development time less than 5 minutes makes it very hard to achieve uniform development. Here, a greater dilution of the developer and longer development time would make the process much easier to manage. Finally, the function of initial water bath is to raise the internal temperature of the tank and film to the planned processing temperature. Just flushing tap water of unknown temp into the tank is actually counter productive. It is unnecessary to flush the anti-halation dye out of the film prior to development.

Yeah, cyborg hands and arms.

How did you shoot an entire roll of film at different ISOs?

"Bromide drag" results from a concentration of bromine by-product of development which is not washed away from the film surface for lack of agitation. Where this occurs, you have reduced development, lack if image formation in the negative - a thin density. As the concentrated bromine is heavier, it sinks toward the bottom of the tank - thus "drag" effect. What he indicates as the effect of bromide drag is clearly not so, as (1) the indicated image area is more dense, not so, and (2) the "drag" is along the length of the film strip, whereas a true bromide drag effect would run down the reel, or across the width of the film strip. I do mot know, but I suspect that what he is looking at is some sort of fog. Standing in developer for 2 hours - who knows.

Very nicely done! You could put a "Jobo" label on it and price it at $500. (Jobo does, or used to ,l sell a tempering tank like this plus the tank for about $275, but I think theirs lacked the water recirculating pump and the digital display.)

What I find confusing here is the basic plan for the test. Stand development by the way it works is a fixed process which does not allow user control over the extent of development, so the idea of using to push develop any film to any degree, much less 3 stops, is flawed. Diafine is a two bath developer which processes to exhaustion of its developing agent. Again, self-limiting with no "push" capacity, although its normal development may produce a half stop increase in box film speed for a film like Tri-X. So, by the nature of the two developers selected for comparison, no "push" to 3200 is chemically possible. Why go through the motions?

Thanks for sharing! I have shot a bit paper negatives in pinhole cameras but not lensed ones like this. You give a good ball park to start off from :)

This is a great tutorial. I've been doing it by modifying the cassette. I'll have to try this version. Here"s the video I made on it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nL5xprekr6rFoZs.html '

Results: Neither process yields anything closed to a quality negative. Stand development the inferior of the two, and the analysis here does not address issues in stand development which not would show in these small, low enlargement print, such as bromide drag.

funny idea but what for are you doing this? It‘s actually a great idea with 4x5/8x10 but not so much with tiny 35mm frames IMHO

Dude. You rule. Thanx for the template and the walkthrough!!!!!

interesting video, nice to see 2 negs side by side. However I think that you developed your neg too long in the hc110. Here is my reciepe, trix exposed at 1600iso 50 minutes in hc110 1+100 1min agitation at the beginning, 3 inversion every 5min. I guarantee you my HL are perfects!

Very good filming techniques. I binged watch your pervious videos and they're really good. You should upload more frequently. I would love to make a book like this some day. I haven't been shooting film photography for too long but I would love to keep expanding and connecting with people in the same field. I mainly do street photography on my channel but I can say my favorite is black and white 35mm film.

Thanks so much for sharing all that you experimented with! It's helpful to the rest of us!

Hey man... I followed your suggestion on the HC110 for 5mins on a couple of rolls i shot at ISO 40!!! Came out pretty nice.. I also shot the P30 @ ISO 25 and developed it for 4mins with excellent results! thanks for this...

This is the best unboxing video I've seen. I'm not just biased because I love this camera either. Hope to order and 8x10 soon.

Thank you for the vid! Clear and informative

Where can we download the dx code template? thanks.

Thanks for the video, I learnt a lot and will be trying this out soon.... I'm interested in this on 4x5 as well as 35mm.

helpful and easy to follow, thanks!!

I'll be more reactive to comments directly on the blog than here, Cheers !