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Fantastic video! How were you able to put holes for the banana plug terminals without crumbling the entire plastic casing?

Does it meet safety standards for meters

I have been searching for those direct connections to the solder paste syringe that you mentioned buying on Amazon. I'm not finding what you did. Can you link, or tell me what you searched for to find them? My unit came with huge syringes that would be troublesome to fill with solder paste. Thanks for the video!

Daniel from Diodegonewild has given this a more realistic review. Autometers do need to cycle and this one does it well above average. I have quite a number of Fnirsi gadgets. This is getting a miss because I already have a flood of multimeters. But their battery impedance tester is on its way to me and I do pay for it.

I have this multimeter from several months, and is very good for the price, a must have, the only thing it is missing is a good scale on mv, I have to use another one to do the job when adjusting bias in amplifiers, for all the rest is super.

6:57 you didn’t have the negative probe connected in the hole, just thought I’d let you know..

I own this meter as well as a bunch of others ( can't help myself from buying each new model) and I find Auto modes on ANY multimeter to be of very limited use. I much prefer to set the meter to what I wish to measure i.e. when you have an AC signal riding on DC etc.

I have several test cables with coax cables and standard spacing banana plugs that I like to use. I don't think I'd buy a meter without the standard connector spacing. That indicates to me that the meter's manufacturer either isn't paying attention to their market, or doesn't know it. That's not a good sign.

Great project and video. Thanks! Lots of fun!

Did the same with the superglue. Small bottles are the only way to go.

Thank you for the video! But I didn't understand what the problem was - on the other side of the cable, you have the USB-C plug, and it connects to the soldering iron, in any way: you can connect it in any way you choose (around the clock - even at 180 degrees)! So in fact the polarity of the connection on the side of the DC socket is of no importance - isn't it?

This story provides my POV regarding repair/mod prices, though of course it just applies to me. I do equipment repairs for a government lab in the town where I live. With some of their gear, designed by them in-house 40 years ago I'm the only one I can imagine would ever bother to do all the necessary research to understand it and its quirks, then take the time and care to do the repair job right. I could charge a lot more than I do for most of it, but I don't. I'm semi-retired, single, and I charge what I figure is fair. There was a brand-new manager in one department at the lab who called me on a Friday to tell me he thought my repair quote had been too high since I worked at home and had no overhead or other employees. That sort of took me aback. So I told him, "No problem. I'll go play with radios this weekend." I got a call back from the guy a couple of hours later and he asked me if I could come over and pick up the equipment before closing time. I asked, "Couldn't you find a better quote?" He sounded embarrassed and told me that only 1 company they'd called would do it at all, a place on the east-coast, and they had quoted him $3,500 with a 60 day turnaround. He said he'd be happy to pay me more than my original quote. I told him I'd pick it up before closing time, fix it over the weekend, and drop it off Monday morning for the original quote of $250. After that he never questioned my repair quotes. In fact, since then he's never even asked for a quote. I just pick things up. I fix them as quickly as I can. I return them with a bill. I get paid. That's the way I like to do business. This adversarial crap is just that. I'm too old to play games, and the little extra money I could make by squeezing my customers simply won't change my life. It would just stress me out for no good reason.

Don't be part of the rip-off! This device is way too expensive, and the makers have found a way to market it to an unsuspecting public. It leads to inflation and distrust of the brand, and is, quite simply, just wrong. Thanks for the great channel.

That's a difficult question for me personally to tackle - how much to charge for a repair. On one hand, it doesn't take a PhD to replace two CMOS batteries so I can see the nominal charge of 1 hour labour making sense. What bothers me though is that you do need to bake in some upcharge in case you completely bugger the repair - you NEVER know, you could knock over your soldering iron and melt some expensive components or even break traces inside layer 3 of a 4-layer PCB for example. You can't escape the fact that it is a $10k replacement value item on your workbench at the end of the day. If I were doing it for a friend and the friend had ZERO expectations of a successful repair (AKA they are ready to buy a new unit but would like me to try fixing it first) then I would do it for free or "beer money" - whatever that is for a non-drinker - but if it comes with an expectation of fixing it, you kind-of have to cover the eventuality that it may get borked in the process and that is worth some mone yfor the risk on your end. Where you lost me is the cost of components - 25% is a VERY small margin on those - if the parts cost is very low, it should be closer to 2x the cost of the part! Consider instead of billing out each little part - just charge a "incidentals - parts / supplies" line instead for like 20$ instead of making 10c profit on a socket you know?

The real question is - should you get into the Stenography machine business. $10k for that? A quick suggest suggests what while this may be at the higher end, it's not out of line for the market. I assume you're paying a premium for the small volume here and for the expectation that the keys work at a perfect professional level, probably very quick turn around on the service. The big difference with this machine is that most of the machines have big typewriter-type keys, based on the original design. This machine and the next one are using some very sensitive keys. Additional, this unit works with a PC, while most of the machines use a built in LCD which makes them look a bit like a cheap 1990's kids "laptop", like a V-Tech. As for what the company would charge, while digging for this info I saw that the company mentions they charge $270 restocking fee for returns. While I'm sure this is because the machines are often rented, I think anything you charge would be well below what the company would charge.

I had been looking at this to make my way into the pemf field just to experiment, Don't really know what i'm doing but if this is so crap, what other options are there in the pulsed signal offerings? My budget isn't crazy but could stretch for more than this unit goes for by a little. Is there even such a thing as a cheap, two channel adjustable voltage pulse generator that works and won't require an expensive oscilliscope to experiment with? I won't likely be going into the high kilahertz ranges, solfegios and such are mainly under 1000hz...

The downside of charging a lot, for example, $1000 to rotate the tires on a Lamborgini, is that just about any tech can do this job, and there's probably a lot of techs who would agree to undercut your jacked-up rate. You might lose reputation for attempting to price gouge over this as well. Just my thoughts.

I ordered the FNIRSI FNB48P and it arrived last week. Very useful for monitoring my phone charger.

charge 10% of value

As an answer to your question, an honest repair should cost what it costs. For example, my car needs a repair. I take it to my mechanic and he charges me for the time he spends on it plus parts. I don't think he should charge me less than a car worth more than mine. As long as you feel you are fairly compensated for your time, that's all that matters.

Just be an honest person and charge for the material (batteries+consumables) + your honorary. I don't exactly how is the economy of where you live, but i think something like $50/hour would be more or less a fair value, given that you had to afford various equipments, and get educated to do this kind of technical jobs, and your time of course.

Generally, anything that is sold to government (and it is not a consumer product), is charged at highly inflated prices. This is an example of your tax dollars at "work"

$10,000 dollars for that steno machine is probably based on demand and the limited use for it. And the nature of our capitalistic system. One could buy a nice artsy steampunk wristwatch for that amount. You do you!

No need to rip off the buyer for a simple repair job. Seems to me they were already ripped off once. It just gives the industry a bad name. People recommend car mechanics for this very reason.

I don't charge at all. But I do accept what the person offers me. Which is usually more than I would have asked for. But then I don't have a business doing this, just a hobby kind of thing. Great video!

I would charge normal, the parts inside are probably the same as in the least expensive models so labor +parts

When you have a business, and you want to make money, it makes sense to charge based on the value the customer is willing to pay you. Regardless of how much it cost you to produce the thing. You, as a repairman, can charge as much as the value of a repair is to this customer. The customer can either have it repaired, or buy a new one. And the customer can have it repaired with you, or someone else. So given the option to either buy a new one for $10k, or get it repaired by someone for $200-$500, the customer is definitely willing to pay you more than another customer who has a throwaway device. For example, another customer who has a device whose total cost is $200, is not going to be as willing to pay you the $150 charge to repair it, because the value to that customer is much lower - both from the device, and the repair.

I tend to charge only for the work that I do. The value of my time is always the same, although the cost of parts may be higher in high-value gear. I assume they can charge that price because there is only a limited market for stenographer keyboards. However, if the profit-margin is that high then shouldn't that stimulate competition? Is there anything special about the mechanical constructions of the actual keys? Perhaps a patented design? I wonder if they offer a warranty that helps justify the price.

Nice little meter. Kind of interested in that. As far as labor goes. I never upcharge. Always just charge normal rate. Return business beats no business.

So many parts, so little time. :) I used to use felt pens to try to color polarize connectors. First, it's impossible to use a red felt pen to color a black connector red. But when the did work they also rubbed off or faded pretty badly with time. Then I realized that cheap black and red fingernail polish worked really well for that job. It didn't matter what color the connectors were, and nail polish doesn't fade or rub off. I now have an assortment of colors of cheap fingernail polish in my toolbox to ID various voltages and signals. It doesn't dry instantly, but it's bright and lasts a very long time. I like your soldering iron holder. The old ones made with a big spring were great for melting AC or DC power cables and BNC signal cables that dropped between the turns of the spring, pretty much any wire that dropped between the turns. Very versatile. BTW, I used to say, "Onwards, and downwards!"

I have always charged according to my usual rate. It is a matter of personal principle.

All the WI-FI sockets I've seen were SMA's.

I had considered getting a gpsdo as an exxternal reference for my scopes and function generators. Having seen this and the price , that idea is out the window and it's hello ebay and CTI. Thanks for that.

with this 6074BC model being specified with a bandwidth of 70 MHz, but still apparently being able to handle 250 MHz (albeit with amplitude loss), I am wondering how far the Hantek6254BC with its specififed bandwidth of 250 MHz can be operated above its specification.

Great Picaxe stuff !

I wish I knew how to use that program to design your PCB, you make it look so easy!

At least its harder to turn off the alarm in the morning when your half asleep😅

Just bought one based largely on your review! Thanks!

how to calculate frequency ?. I have to make 50khz for 10v input. and with 1v of decrement will going by 5khz. Could you please explain that.

Qualcomm QC and PD are different protocols. Your soldering iron is probably PD as QC is mainly for the charge controller for the snapdragon SOC.

I bought one of these clocks from AliExpress for US$3 about 8 yrs ago ! I love that its 24hr time and having the seconds counting all the time 👍😁 Mine worked 100% first time 😜 The buttons are a bit backwards for the display layout. I used an old Nokia phone charger to power mine 👍

I totally agree with you, I'm an old school sponge user as well. I have a foil like type too and don't find it useful no matter what I hear.

Does the red wire (positive) same DC current as black wire (negative) when using UT210E ?

I find that using a wet sponge to clean my soldering iron tip cools off my tip (soaks some heat away) so I switched to the brass wool soldering iron tip cleaner. I guess this is all dependent on how quickly your soldering iron can recover the set soldering temperature though. Just my $0.02.

New standard for USB C is now 48 V PD 3.1 so I imagine this one maxes out at 28 V 140 W any of these power meters that I purchase has to go up to 48 V at 5 A 240 W all these other ones are old technology... PD 3.0

Mistakes lead to learning.! You could build the timer into a box or case, add a battery. NiMH battery's can be left on a trickle-charge for months at a time. 20mA ~ 40mA would be a reasonable value. The right value hobbiest solar cell would be enough. 6 battery's comes to 7.2volts.

How would you turn the alarm off so that it doesn’t go off the next day? Can you set it to 00:00:00?

You don’t have one of those fancy solder suckers?